What Could This Be

Fangule · Mar 3, 2014

Hey everyone how's it going, I'm here wondering what could be happening to some plants I have growing. There seems to be some specific issue with this strain cause it comes out of nowhere and on some healthy plants

These 3 are same strain (A Cali type Smells skunky yet sweet in bloom)
This is another strain. Fire Bagseed. Mango I think

To the Vigoro organic soil I added Azomite, Dolomite W/Cal/Mg and well these

I used this chart

but can't really match any with mine. Any ideas would be appreciated thanks.

Fangule · Mar 9, 2014

Update more recent photo's

IDK but it's the same soil and ph water used in this one

well it did have a small patch on first set of leaves

If anyone has any idea what could be causing this please feel free to comment and post.

JohnDee · Mar 10, 2014

Hi Fang,
It looks like a nutrient burn to me. Super rich organic soil can do that. And the many odd atypical leaf spots and such could be from nutrient lockout which often goes hand-in-hand with nute burn. Far as plan of action...I suppose a flush should be tried. I'll leave that up to you.
JD

rickymac21 · Mar 10, 2014

I agree. Looks like they're frying. I would flush with ph'd water. Im not sure if you mix nutes in the water orif you premixed nutes in your soil. But if you mix some in the water i would stop for the next couple waterings.

Fangule · Mar 10, 2014

Dam one of the reasons I went Organic was because I was lead to believe that organic's don't burn. :confused:

Fangule · Mar 10, 2014

JohnDee said:
Hi Fang,
It looks like a nutrient burn to me. Super rich organic soil can do that. And the many odd atypical leaf spots and such could be from nutrient lockout which often goes hand-in-hand with nute burn. Far as plan of action...I suppose a flush should be tried. I'll leave that up to you.
JD

Hey JD how goes it? Well first of all thanks for taking a look and helping out. i guess I'm just gonna flush and cook my soil for a month so this don't happen again. Thanks JD.

rickymac21 said:
I agree. Looks like they're frying. I would flush with ph'd water. Im not sure if you mix nutes in the water orif you premixed nutes in your soil. But if you mix some in the water i would stop for the next couple waterings.

Yeah got a pH pen will flush. The only thing I add to the water is sea kelp and fish fert oh and super thrive. Thanks

Fangule · Mar 10, 2014

So now I have another question, Of all listed above amends which is the hottest?

Fangule · Mar 10, 2014

So now I have another question, Of all listed above amends which is the hottest?

Update: these arrived today

JohnDee · Mar 10, 2014

Hi Fang,
Things are good with me...made it through the worst of winter and we've even had some sunshine!

The tip necrosis is pretty conclusive far as burn is concerned...do you agree? With all that rich nutrient added, it really couldn't be any deficiencies, nor does it look like a deficiency.

I'm not an experienced organic soil grower. Back when I first started growing, I did organics but quite rudimentary. Soil with worm castings and Alaskan fish emulsion for flowering.

You have so many organic ammendments that it's hard to narrow it down to any one. I think really it's an issue of too much and too many. There's one bag of stuff that has like 12-0-0 and then worm castings are high N and several others of those are high N. Just too much of everything.

I would say, mix it up and let it cook (if adding mycoryizals) and then when preparing for a grow, dilute some with some peat and perlite and a few other inert things. Maybe a 50% dilution of your hot nutrient mix and the rest milder stuff.

You've been around for awhile and I know you've seen guys burn seedlings with FFOF. It happens, or is it shit happens. lol So anyway...hope they make it.
Cheers,
JD

Bugeye · Mar 10, 2014

How much blood meal did you add? Did you let the soil compost for a month before using? Definitely not the castings as those can go on quite heavy. The bone meal and blood meal generally need to cook first as they are better taken by the plants after they are broken down by your micro-organisms in the soil. I don't see guano in your list but that is another one you have to be real careful with.

Organics won't burn your plants if used in the right proportions, prepared correctly and applied at right time. You still want to start seedlings in a starter mix that has little nutrient and then add the richer stuff as they mature.

Edit - worm castings are generally applied to plants a little later as well so maybe it is an issue with seedlings - not sure.

Fangule · Mar 10, 2014

Yeah I heard to mix 50/50 FFOF with Light Warrior for seedlings. I'm thinking of getting some Mycoryzal, hey are pucks made from Peat? I have some clones and there is some green algae looking stuff growing on the jiffy pucks. Anyway I guess your right I just over did it. I also remember adding some undiluted worm juice from my compost bin. Is that stuff hot off get go?

Fangule · Mar 10, 2014

I added quite a bit of both blood and bone meal added directly to soil along with all that stuff in post #1.

Bugeye · Mar 11, 2014

Well for your next grow, I would mix all that stuff up using a recipe like sub's supersoil or the TLO mix and then use AACT for your feedings if you already have a worm bin. Still important to start them in seedling soil mix and slowly introduce them to your richer soil as they can take it. Don't toss this soil when you are done with it, it can all be reused after hitting it with some molasses water and letting it sit for a month.

For this go around, hopefully they will grow through it and be beasts. I would start some AACTs soon to help the soil get corrected. You won't fry them with a good AACT so find a simple recipe and give it a go.

Fangule · Mar 11, 2014

I reuse the soil. I have bin a just for used soil, used as in like 1 grow/bloom cycle 100 days approximate. I usually let it sit for a bit before adding it to the worm bin, I add ground dried trims and roots to it. I just started the meals like 3 weeks ago the alfalfa I just got yesterday. I still would like some humic acid and some type of glacial dust in the mix. I'm going to look into the AACT. I have an airbrush compressor that I'm gonna rig for a brewer. I have a revised list for a 1.5 cu subsoil mix I just need to get a new container for that.

JohnDee · Mar 11, 2014

Yo Fang,
Hope your babies are getting better. It would seem to me that the juice from the bottom of the worm bin could be pretty hot. And for seedlings...even the OF and Light Warrior mix sounds a little hot for seedlings. Remember...they carry their own nutrients in the cotyledons. That's why they make seed starting mix. And lets see...there was one other issue...damn, Oh ya, the peat pucks. A little algae on the surface won't hurt anything...but maybe you're keeping them a little wet.
Cheers dude,
JD

Fangule · Mar 14, 2014

I thought the WJ would be a lil hot. I use cheap Home Depot potting soil Vigoro Organic. It has Canadian Sphagnum Peat Moss and ground Dolomite. I always add extra Calcitic & Dolomite lime cause it breaks down slow.
I just got some of this

I'm thinking of making 2 types of soil. One for grow and one for bloom. Do you know what's good to control algae? Thanks again Bro for all the helpful advise.

JohnDee · Mar 15, 2014

Hi Fang,
Sounds like once you get some of the problems ironed out...you'll have some well fed plants. And great tasting smoke too.

Far as algae, I've heard of a few things that may help. If your pots have drain trays, you could start watering from the bottom which would allow the top to dry out better. That surely would help. Also, just removing the algae and top dressing with fresh soil will help slow things down...or alternatively just stir up the top soil and bury the algae.

In hydro grows I cover the medium with panda plastic to keep light away. You might try something like that...only raised a bit so you still have good ventilation.

And of course there's the old stand-by H2O2 but that could be harmful to beneficials. Algae isn't really that harmful, though it often seems that algae and fungus gnats co-exist because they like the same damp conditions. Good luck.
Peace,
JD

garden11 · Mar 15, 2014

Hi fellow organic grower

I think me and you are like organic growings ying and yang lol. When I grow i do it super easy and dont care to much about buying various product stuff

The only think i'm contemplating is the fungal life inside my pots and that they have what they need in the forms of nutrients. At my local gardner they make a soil mix, wich contains pr m3; 3 kilos limestone, 3 kilos dolomitt and 0.8kg full fertilizer with mikro nutriants. The only thing i add during groth and flowering , is bonemeal. Increasing the amount of bonemeal in the soil, the older the plant is. The fungi and insectlife inside the soil does the rest.

Personally, my issues is "need more ligth" and "need more fans) lol

Fangule · Mar 15, 2014

garden11 said:
Hi fellow organic grower I think me and you are like organic growings ying and yang lol. When I grow i do it super easy and dont care to much about buying various product stuff The only think i'm contemplating is the fungal life inside my pots and that they have what they need in the forms of nutrients. At my local gardner they make a soil mix, wich contains pr m3; 3 kilos limestone, 3 kilos dolomitt and 0.8kg full fertilizer with mikro nutriants. The only thing i add during groth and flowering , is bonemeal. Increasing the amount of bonemeal in the soil, the older the plant is. The fungi and insectlife inside the soil does the rest.

Personally, my issues is "need more ligth" and "need more fans) lol

Yeah I bought alot of different amendments to first of all eliminate adding anything to the water and to have it in the soil already. Now I just want to so some controlled growing with different mixes. I have seeds from a hermie so most say they are feminized. I'll be running same strain so I'll figure out what they like and don't. I just got some molasses and now I am working on getting my Brewer built, I'll be using this compressor

23L/min should be good enough. I'm also going to be going to HPS 600 in the near future, I use cfl's for now.

Fangule · Mar 15, 2014

JohnDee said:
Hi Fang,
Sounds like once you get some of the problems ironed out...you'll have some well fed plants. And great tasting smoke too.

Far as algae, I've heard of a few things that may help. If your pots have drain trays, you could start watering from the bottom which would allow the top to dry out better. That surely would help. Also, just removing the algae and top dressing with fresh soil will help slow things down...or alternatively just stir up the top soil and bury the algae.

In hydro grows I cover the medium with panda plastic to keep light away. You might try something like that...only raised a bit so you still have good ventilation.

And of course there's the old stand-by H2O2 but that could be harmful to beneficials. Algae isn't really that harmful, though it often seems that algae and fungus gnats co-exist because they like the same damp conditions. Good luck.
Peace,
JD

On my 2 second grow I had 2 plants. One was LST'd and hermed (my fault for LST during flower) second plant was tall like a sat/ind with sativa being dominant. That second plant tasted good about 80 gr wet I got from that one like an Oz dried(18 inch plant)

<<<<@ 28 days bloom. The algae is no biggie bro it's on the clone jiffy pucks only. Eventualy I would like to try DWC. I'll need allot of help for that when the time comes. I know Hydrogen Peroxide is good for preventing root rot in rootbound plants (a few drops per gallon).
But I don't want to mess up any bennies so I'll only use it on seedlings the first time I water. Thanks again JD.

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