Best ways to increae yield. Tell us your secrets!!

bob harris

Well-Known Member
I might have some photos of said colas but I don't think they turned out too well... my camera is crappy and I wasn't shooting to show the contrast.

The difference is huge. The first time I smoked one of those frosted nugs I almost freaked out because it was so unexpectedly intense... off one hit.

The light needs to be pretty close to the plants, 4ft away isn't going to cut it. It was usually 1-2ft from mine. There never was any sign of injury so maybe it could've been closer.

Just be careful with your eyes around those things. One time I entered the tent with it still on, and glanced at it - saw it glowing (it does produce some visible light), thought OH SHIT and went staggering backwards frantically escaping the tent... the rest of the night my eyes were bloodshot, dry, my vision was fuzzy... not good. So what I do now is turn the light on manually only, and when I do so, I tie a red bandana around the zippers, so I have a reminder. Do remember also, fluoros take a minute to stop producing light, and the UVB bulbs are fluoros, so... wait a minute to enter after you turn them off.
UVB has a penetration of only about 20 inches..that's the bad news..the good news is it a "ray' not a "LIGHT" and does penetrate foliage..
 

FatMarty

Well-Known Member
I can't see the pic that well..but it looks like a bunch of sugar leaves are missing in one spot..and if you uvb burn looks like mine, it's almost as the sugar leaves 'melt"...
I just got it too close to HID for too long.
Probably a day or so.



It stopped growing up top like was mentioned.
 

SimonD

Well-Known Member
Checking out the forum, might be moving to Michigan, I get fairly good yields. This season I've averaged ~4oz per square foot under 1Ks. Less, of course, under 600s. You can see some of my plants in the link in my sig. I run a virtual SOG, about one plant per square foot trained/pruned as link'd below. Other than that, there's nothing unusual going on. I've been working with the same fertilizer for ages and like to think that I know it well. The room is well-optimized, but there's no CO2. Nothing aside from air cooling and ventilation. Pro-Mix, Jack's fertilizer, lights and fans. That's it.

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=187887

Simon
 

cephalopod

Well-Known Member
So does that mean you're crushing 4lbs a K or how many sq ft to a bulb?
Checking out the forum, might be moving to Michigan, I get fairly good yields. This season I've averaged ~4oz per square foot under 1Ks. Less, of course, under 600s. You can see some of my plants in the link in my sig. I run a virtual SOG, about one plant per square foot trained/pruned as link'd below. Other than that, there's nothing unusual going on. I've been working with the same fertilizer for ages and like to think that I know it well. The room is well-optimized, but there's no CO2. Nothing aside from air cooling and ventilation. Pro-Mix, Jack's fertilizer, lights and fans. That's it.

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=187887

Simon
 

SimonD

Well-Known Member
So does that mean you're crushing 4lbs a K or how many sq ft to a bulb?
I don't mean to sound cryptic, but I don't discuss the specifics of the op. I'm not a legal grower in legal state. Feel free to take my comment solely on its face value.

Looking at that chronic plant 10 days from harvest..I'm not seeing his claimed yield...
That was grown under a 600; I link'd the thread to show how the plants are trained/pruned, as I said. I also said to take a look at the plants in my sig.

~1ft2 of space:







More?

Simon
 

cephalopod

Well-Known Member
Not being a sceptic Simon, just don't see a lot of that going on and was making sure I was reading that right. I've seen your handy work around before, good job.
 

SimonD

Well-Known Member
Not being a sceptic Simon, just don't see a lot of that going on and was making sure I was reading that right. I've seen your handy work around before, good job.
Fair enough and thank you.

All things staying equal, I find that training and (just as importantly) pruning really helps with yields. Light intensity is #1. If you have reasonable temps, lots of light, plants without oddball genetics that were pruned intelligently, it's hard to go wrong. Many folks, especially new growers, start out with a multitude of inputs without really knowing how to control and manipulate each function effectively. This is especially true of nutrient choices. Don't even get me started on growbooks and what seems like a conspiracy to get hobby growers not to succeed, but I digress....

In my case, as I use so few ingredients, everything has to be optimized. There's elegance in simplicity, but that same concept can come at a cost. Something seemingly as benign as a a choice of a reflector can take on a rather substantial meaning, when discussing yield and the quality of the bud itself. Same goes for everything else.
 

bowlfullofbliss

Well-Known Member
You want big yeild.....you need an automated sealed room environment, including a veg and mother room, co2 included in the automation, and get rid of the dirt and grow in a hydroponic system.

Be as bias as you want, there is zero evidence that hydro is less quality in any way than dirt farming, except you don't have to work wtih poop.

Do that, make sure your lights are legit, and not some cfl crap, but big HID'd, and your money.
 

bmf725

Well-Known Member
I agree Hydro vs organic soil I am currently growing both. I guarantee that if I put 2 buds of the same strain 1 organic and 1 hydro synthetic you cant tell the diffrence! I just prefer to grow organic soil because it is much much less work and worry than hydro, and a lot better for the environment I never liked having to dump my hydro reservoirs down the drain or outside!
 

st0wandgrow

Well-Known Member
You want big yeild.....you need an automated sealed room environment, including a veg and mother room, co2 included in the automation, and get rid of the dirt and grow in a hydroponic system.

Be as bias as you want, there is zero evidence that hydro is less quality in any way than dirt farming, except you don't have to work wtih poop.

Do that, make sure your lights are legit, and not some cfl crap, but big HID'd, and your money.

I grew for about 2 years using an ebb and flow table/reservoir system. I agree that the yield is better, but I think you sacrifice taste. That, and you're limited to using salts.

The main reason I stopped the hydro method was due to the humidity. I had a tough time keeping my humidity in check with 160 gallons of standing water in my grow. I prefer the simplicity, and taste of growing in soil.
 

bmf725

Well-Known Member
To a degree I'd agree with yield and quality going together..based on the happy plant theory. But things like spending the money on UVB light, and using it properly..will drastically increase Thc/Thcv production..without increasing yield. But yes, happy plants are going to naturally come close to their potential. And soil with organics will reduce over all yields..but will taste better every time.

With growing it always comes down to "what are you trying to acomplish"?
Could you cite your sources on the UVB effect on THC/THCV produtcion I cannot seem to find any scientific evidence of this. The only thing I could find was in the Feb issue of High Times and they pretty much said UV-B destroys organic cells and wreaks havoc on animal and plant genes.
 

bob harris

Well-Known Member
Could you cite your sources on the UVB effect on THC/THCV produtcion I cannot seem to find any scientific evidence of this. The only thing I could find was in the Feb issue of High Times and they pretty much said UV-B destroys organic cells and wreaks havoc on animal and plant genes.
Ed Rosenthal has an article on uvb and there are a couple others..I'll try and post links when I get a minute. Nost of my opinion is based on my observations..I have done isde by side plants with only ine getting uvb and the uvb plany cleary out produced the non uvb plant in trich production and potency.
 

cannawacky

Member
I grew for about 2 years using an ebb and flow table/reservoir system. I agree that the yield is better, but I think you sacrifice taste. That, and you're limited to using salts.

The main reason I stopped the hydro method was due to the humidity. I had a tough time keeping my humidity in check with 160 gallons of standing water in my grow. I prefer the simplicity, and taste of growing in soil.
I have to agree on this one. People noticed when I went to an aeroponic set-up. I have gone back to organic soil. There are plant limits in my state, but I have found that the planters I made that are about 13" deep but 22" wide squares give me a lot of roots. I suspect that when the roots spread out sideways I get more roots closer to the surface. Being closer to the surface must result in easier access to oxygen for the roots. More roots = more fruits.

These wide planters combined with topping, tying the branches outward to even out the canopy (like a SCROG) and a little extra veg time (and keep tying to keep a flat canopy) lets me get more buds close to the light and I don't get those tiny popcorn buds anymore from lack of light, just nice fat ones. I easily get three, maybe even four times the yield per plant than I did when I just grew from seed and flowered at 8 weeks without topping or training. Of course, you need a plant that works well with SCROG. CO2 also helps.

Having said that, I now get one plant to yield what four plants used to yield under the same light, BUT my yield per light is about the same and four plants in smaller buckets was less work and more variety. Did I really gain anything except keep my plant qty down?

If I didn't have to worry about plant limits I would cram a lot of plants under one light in a SOG.
 
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