A Bored Electrician to Answer Your Questions

Anyway, here's my situation. I was hoping you can analyze it and offer any suggestions for improvement.

I am growing in an older, horribly designed (from an electrical standpoint) four bedroom condo. All four bedrooms are upstairs and they are ALL connected to the same 120v 15 amp circuit. Installing new wire/breaker is not something I feel comfortable doing.

Right now I am running four 12 gauge extension cords from downstairs, each on separate circuits (one 20a and three 15a), into my two upstairs grow rooms (I'm not using the upstairs circuit for growing). Each outlet that I am running an extension cord from has been upgraded to a Leviton 8300-W 20a hospital grade receptacle. I've also sliced each extension cord so that they are the exact length needed to reach my grow rooms. The lengths are approximately 25', 30', 50' and 55'. Each extension cord is pushing 1200-1300w according to my Kill-A-Watt meter. They are also cool to the touch.

Is this setup safe? I know you obviously aren't supposed to use extension cords for "permanent" setups, but I really have no choice.Also, do you know if they made flat 120v 3 prong connectors? I've seen them on appliances but I can't seem to find the raw plug anywhere. With a flat connector, I could push up a piece of furniture right next to it to both help conceal it and protect it from someone tripping on it.

edit: Here is a picture of what I'm talking about.

http://imageshack.us
here is a 20A at lowes



Cooper Wiring Devices 20-Amp 2-Pole Commercial Electrical Plug


  • Item #: 96979
  • Model #: 4509AN-SP-L
$5.84


as far as the safety issue, you have done all that can be done without doing it code legal. you should be ok !

peace
 
IAm5toned

Are you familiar with programming PLC ? I have acquired one and the DirectSoft 5 software. I am highly interested in using it as a timer basically to turn on / off lighting and fans so I would imagine it would be simple enough for someone that understood ladder logic programming, which definitely is not me.

square D use to offer a online ladder logic training for free. the only thing with using your plc is that you will need a contactor for each programmed switching operation.this could become costly. but really that would be up to how badly you want to automate your system.and there are other considerations that are to numerous to explain without knowing exactly what you intended to do with the plc. but if you wish it can be done with a little study and trial runs.

peace
 

klonerone

Active Member
hEY IS IT SAFE TUSE USE A SPEEDSTER MOTOR CONTROL WITH MY CANF FAN? Do I need to let it power up fully before slowing the motor?
 
i have a 100 amp breaker box,no space left to expand.thinking of pulling out a 30amp breaker and replacing it with a 60 amp breaker.i was gonna add around 3,000 watts.my stove,water and heat are gas.you see any problems?
i would not increase the demand on this small service. a 100A service is not intended to supply an additional 60A of power. you will ended up overloading the service and tripping the main. is this box the main service panel or a sub panel ? it makes a difference as to whether you can find a way around the issue.

peace
 
hEY IS IT SAFE TUSE USE A SPEEDSTER MOTOR CONTROL WITH MY CANF FAN? Do I need to let it power up fully before slowing the motor?
i am not familiar with that exact name brand of controller, but if it is like most types. it works by limiting the voltage to the motor and slowing down the cycle of the motor.you can operate the motor without powering up first, but it is easier on the motor to power up first then reduce the speed. but either way it is hard on the motor windings operating at reduced voltage. you lose a good amount of operating life on a induction type motor by operating at reduced voltages.

peace
 

klonerone

Active Member
i am not familiar with that exact name brand of controller, but if it is like most types. it works by limiting the voltage to the motor and slowing down the cycle of the motor.you can operate the motor without powering up first, but it is easier on the motor to power up first then reduce the speed. but either way it is hard on the motor windings operating at reduced voltage. you lose a good amount of operating life on a induction type motor by operating at reduced voltages.

peace
Thanks man! have a good one
 

rzza

Well-Known Member
i posted a thread but i doubt i will get the proper response so i will try it here.

this is what i got...

main panel box (in the house) has a 15 amp breaker (square D) for the garage.

the garage has a subpanel that seems very old, its 30 amp and it holds two (im assuming 15 amp) fuses, the round ones, model t.

the wire leading to the panel in the garage is 12 awg.

i want to run:

2)1000 watt lights
2)small 5000btu a/c
1)400 watt T5
3)small osc fans

how i want to do it:

change main panel breaker for the garage to a 30 (i know its wired 12/2 for 20 amp).
change the two fuses in the garage subpanel to two 20s
run one light on each 20 amp fuse.
split the accessories up between the two fuses

is this possible at all?
 

IAm5toned

Well-Known Member
i posted a thread but i doubt i will get the proper response so i will try it here.

this is what i got...

main panel box (in the house) has a 15 amp breaker (square D) for the garage.

the garage has a subpanel that seems very old, its 30 amp and it holds two (im assuming 15 amp) fuses, the round ones, model t.

the wire leading to the panel in the garage is 12 awg.

i want to run:

2)1000 watt lights
2)small 5000btu a/c
1)400 watt T5
3)small osc fans

how i want to do it:

change main panel breaker for the garage to a 30 (i know its wired 12/2 for 20 amp).
change the two fuses in the garage subpanel to two 20s
run one light on each 20 amp fuse.
split the accessories up between the two fuses

is this possible at all?
you have 3840 watts to play with there...
thats 1920 watts per (2) 20 amp circuits.

you dont have enough wattage to run (2) 1000w lamps unless there both on seperate circuits.
there's always a way to get it doner, however you need a professional, or downsize to 600w fixtures....
 

matatan

Well-Known Member
i want to add a 20amp circuit to my home, should i just call an electrician? i am good with my hands and can follow instructions well so if it isnt to demanding i would like to save money and do it myself. any specific questions or need more details i will gladly add.
 

Danielsgb

Well-Known Member
Ask IAm5toned on this thread. FREE electrical advice
He can explain it good. You'll need the info on the panel where you'll add the breaker. Also how far (distance matters) and how many outlets (I think 7 is the max) Maybe a pic of the panel will help too.
Daniels
 

CRAVETHERAVE

Active Member
I've gonna grow with 1 x125w CFL

I know nothing about electrics and could be asking a stupid question, but, i'd prefer that than to have something bad happen.

The timer says on the back....

MAXIMUM WATTAGE 3200W RESISTIVE LOAD
MAXIMUM WATTAGE 480W INDUCTIVE LOAD
MAXIMUM CURRENT 13(2)AMP

That gonna be ok for my light?
 

Danielsgb

Well-Known Member
I've gonna grow with 1 x125w CFL

I know nothing about electrics and could be asking a stupid question, but, i'd prefer that than to have something bad happen.

The timer says on the back....

MAXIMUM WATTAGE 3200W RESISTIVE LOAD
MAXIMUM WATTAGE 480W INDUCTIVE LOAD
MAXIMUM CURRENT 13(2)AMP

That gonna be ok for my light?
You are fine with that timer. Inductive load is the important thing to check. Is the Cfl 125w or comparable to 125w but really more like 23w?
You are way under the watt and amp limits.
 

Pnut3070

Member
I have a York 611d outdoor timer can i use it inside I set the programmed times on and times off but didn't shut my lights off did I set it wrong or what thanks in advance
 

ANC

Well-Known Member
What is the highest voltage you have ever shocked yourself with?
Mine was about 400V while building a tube amp.
Have also seen a 6'6 man thrown across the room sticking his screwdriver in the wrong spot on the back of a TV.
 
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