A Bored Electrician to Answer Your Questions

actually... you might not be able to pull 150 amps out of that panel. actually im certain for a fact you wont be able to do it unless you pretty much kill the power to 75% of the house. theres not enough amperage available...

IAm5toned said:

actually... you might not be able to pull 150 amps out of that panel. actually im certain for a fact you wont be able to do it unless you pretty much kill the power to 75% of the house. theres not enough amperage available...

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What is the maximum amps/watts I could pull by the looks of it? I think at the most would be 60amps.

Thanks again for your expertise.

Coolvibes said:

Hi my 250 w ballast stopped working I plugged in the garage to check worked took it to grow room sounds like it powers on but no light I switched it into another 250 ballast and worked fine any checks I can do to nail the problem I know a bit checked all connections made sure no think was arcing sounds normal

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bulb secure in base? those mogul base lamps can be a bitch to screw down tight sometimes.

Dmitri Medvedev said:

What is the maximum amps/watts I could pull by the looks of it? I think at the most would be 60amps.

Thanks again for your expertise.

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its realy hard to tell. it depends on what your already pulling. 60 amps would not be a stretch, but it also might be the proverbial straw that breaks the panels back.
the problem is that your service and panel are only rated for 200 amps. at peak load, your gonna pull 75% of that just running the house.... so its a risky venture. it might be a really good idea to switch all your house lamps over to cfls and take other steps to reduce your overall wattage

IAm5toned said:

bulb secure in base? those mogul base lamps can be a bitch to screw down tight sometimes.

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Well i made sure i checked no movement and it worked in garage 2 mins earlyer sounds normal i will try my sodium in it but only have one and plants need it next week can not aford ballast to fuk it
thanks for reply

top gizza for your services nice to b nice
kind regards

I'm thinking of building some kinda spinning grow light. I have 2 x 400W ballasts and was thinking of somehow mount 2 sockets onto some kinda ceeling fan, keeping say 2 arms 2 mount sockets on and using the ceeling fan motor to spin the lights. U think this can be done? And how do i do the electrical so that it doesnt get "entangled" in the fan? I keep ballast and fan motor electrical seperated ofc.

I wanna build this spinning light to make a better light spread and to penetrate deeper into the plants and also by rotating the light they get cooled down and can be kept closer to the tops =)

//CaL

PLEASE take a look at my post and tell me how to wire this light, it was given to me a couple of years ago. I would like to put a cord on it & use it for a grow light. The light was new I opened the box new no igniter or capacitor in fixture, are these included in the ballast?
My original post found @ https://www.rollitup.org/grow-room-design-setup/296652-help-needed-hps-wiring.html
Thank for your reply.............

PANGcake said:

I'm thinking of building some kinda spinning grow light. I have 2 x 400W ballasts and was thinking of somehow mount 2 sockets onto some kinda ceeling fan, keeping say 2 arms 2 mount sockets on and using the ceeling fan motor to spin the lights. U think this can be done? And how do i do the electrical so that it doesnt get "entangled" in the fan? I keep ballast and fan motor electrical seperated ofc.

I wanna build this spinning light to make a better light spread and to penetrate deeper into the plants and also by rotating the light they get cooled down and can be kept closer to the tops =)

//CaL

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i think youve been tokin to much

but you would need what is known as a slip ring-

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]How does a Slip Ring work?[/FONT]

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]A slip ring is an electrical connector designed to carry current or signals from a stationary wire into a rotating device.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Typically, it is comprised of a stationary graphite or metal contact (brush) which rubs on the outside diameter of a rotating metal ring. As the metal ring turns, the electrical current or signal is conducted through the stationary brush to the metal ring making the connection. Additional ring/brush assemblies are stacked along the rotating axis if more than one electrical circuit is needed.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]This simple design has been used for decades as a rudimentary method of passing current into a rotating device. Some other names used for slipring are collector ring, rotary electrical contact and "electrical slip ring". Some people also use the term commutator, however commutators are somewhat different and are specialized for use on DC motors and generators.[/FONT]

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ps- think of how difficult it would be to balance the fan blades aftr youve put the lights on them.
im not saying it cant be done, but your engineering would have to be very tight indeed. like aerospace quality or the enitre thing would shake itself to peices after a few secionds of operation

IAm5toned said:

i think youve been tokin to much

but you would need what is known as a slip ring-



ps- think of how difficult it would be to balance the fan blades aftr youve put the lights on them.
im not saying it cant be done, but your engineering would have to be very tight indeed. like aerospace quality or the enitre thing would shake itself to peices after a few secionds of operation

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Thx for the slipring advice! I thought bout instability, so i tot to cut all "fan arms" off at same leght, they not gonna be long, and if necessary duct tape some even spread weight to other arms to even out balance..LOL..iono, but I'm sure as hell gonna try to build this xD

//CaL

Thinking of messing with some CFLs for supplemental lighting at night (plants will be outdoor during the day).

I saw some desk clamp lamps at a store today for about 12 bucks. If I remember correctly, a warning on the ballast stated that the max was 60 watt bulbs. It also stated to use "Type A" only.

1) I have 26-watt CFL bulbs--100 watt equivalent. Will these bulbs be safe for these lamps???

2) Re: the "Type A" warning....does that mean I can use the CFL bulbs???

Thanks!

they will be fine

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I have a 30 Amp timer box from sunlight supply--- i have it pluged into my dryer to the the 220 an i have 4 1000 watt lights with digital ballest an the timers box came with a timer an for some reason when I set the time on it for OFF an ON the lights dont come on nor shut off--- the timer box comes with 4 -240 receptacles an 2- 120 volt receptacles--- there are 2 cords coming out the the box one plugs in to the the dryer socket an the other into the wall to get power an I have the timer plugged into the timer box--- i am not sure what I am doing wrong-- can someone help thanks --------

savage17 said:

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I have a 30 Amp timer box from sunlight supply--- i have it pluged into my dryer to the the 220 an i have 4 1000 watt lights with digital ballest an the timers box came with a timer an for some reason when I set the time on it for OFF an ON the lights dont come on nor shut off--- the timer box comes with 4 -240 receptacles an 2- 120 volt receptacles--- there are 2 cords coming out the the box one plugs in to the the dryer socket an the other into the wall to get power an I have the timer plugged into the timer box--- i am not sure what I am doing wrong-- can someone help thanks --------

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what type of input does the timer box require from the timer, just 120v?

what are the different light phases for plants,

yes just 120---- i am not sure where to plug it in-- if I plug it into the box an then i tried a fan an the fan does not work-- do I need to plug the timer into the wall then plug the the 120 cord that comes out of the box into the timer? cause right now I am just doing it manually an i really dont want to--- i bought the 30 amp with the 4 outlits for the 240 an 2 outlits for the 120 volts-- from sunlightsupply.com ---

i got a question for the electrician... i'm wanting to have both a cooling tstat and fan speed controller running my exhaust fan.. i want to run the fsc on appx 30% all the time, then when room reaches hi temp (77) the tstat will kick in and the fan will run @ 100% until room has cooled down...
in reading al b fucts harvest every two weeks thread he gave me this idea and said to simply wire the tstat and fsc in parallel... is this correct, here is the diagram he provided as well... i'd appreciate answers from anybody that knows... got a reply on another thread saying i needed a coil relay, which i believe would work but so should this wiring, right??? thanks again...

lol it was i that gave you the reply about using the relay.
i just wasnt sure if by running them in parallel if the backfeed would damage the timer or not, its something ive never tried, so i put the relay in as a preventative measure.
if al b fuct is willing to put his name on it id say give it a go.

savage17 said:

yes just 120---- i am not sure where to plug it in-- if I plug it into the box an then i tried a fan an the fan does not work-- do I need to plug the timer into the wall then plug the the 120 cord that comes out of the box into the timer? cause right now I am just doing it manually an i really dont want to--- i bought the 30 amp with the 4 outlits for the 240 an 2 outlits for the 120 volts-- from sunlightsupply.com ---

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model number?