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AACT, Bloom Tea, Veg Tea, Fungal Tea, Myco Tea, recipes from the outdoor guys.

Discussion in 'Organics' started by malignant, Mar 29, 2012.

  1.  
    Aruanda

    Aruanda Well-Known Member

    I'm getting into it. Bout to start a bokashi bran and compost bin. And harvest BIM (beneficial indigenous micro-organisms) from various ecologies w/ cooked rice.
     
    DonTesla and mr. childs like this.
  2.  
    AllDayToker

    AllDayToker Well-Known Member

    I plan on using this recipe from the first page.

    "Flowering nute tea mix:
    2/3 cup Peruvian Seabird Guano
    2/3 cup Earth Worm Castings
    2/3 cup High P Guano (Indonesian or Jamaican)
    (That makes the "dry mix". You can make all you want and save it to use later.)
    5 tbs. Maxicrop 1-0-4 powdered kelp extract
    5 tbs. Black Strap Molasses
    @ 2 cups dry mix/5 gallons of water EVERY watering."

    My girls are half way into flower. I know that guano can burn.

    I want a second opinion if it would be a good idea to dilute it 50/50 with fresh water after I brew it so make sure they take it well and not burn them.
     
  3.  
    natureboygrower

    natureboygrower Well-Known Member

    not knowing how your plant is going to respond,diluting is probably a good idea.I would dilute and just see how your plant does.also,I don't know about every watering,I watered with my tea once a week. one other thing,is that 5 tablespoons molasses per 5 gallons of h20?if so,I'd dial that back.I use 1 tablespoon per 5 gallons of h20.it's hard to know your ratios mixing all your powders up beforehand,not saying it's not a good idea,it's just hard to gauge.maybe keep track of your tablespoons of each and figure that ratio to your h20 per gallon?
    there are way more experienced ppl on this thread,they know more than me,just my thoughts.best of luck!
     
    mr. childs likes this.
  4.  
    Brandon Nebel

    Brandon Nebel Active Member

    I have been using a recipe from vital earth organics. Its worked really well for me so far. Ive tweaked it a little since the beginning to add a few components i felt it was missing. Here is the original formula i started with.

    .5 cup Baseline Compost Concentrate (peat humus)
    .5 cup California gold humus
    1 cup EWC
    .5 Malibu Bu's Blend compost (cow manure base with yarrow, camomile and a few other things.
    1 Tbsp glacial rock powder (trace elements, calcium, iron, cobalt, sodium)
    2 Tbsp Vital Kelp
    4 Tbsp Insect Frass
    4 Tbsp Vital Fish Hydroslate
    2 Tbsp Vital Roots (mycorrhiza)

    I added the following on my own to tweak it a bit

    2 Tbsp Unsulpured molasses
    .25 Cup Bokashi (wheat bran, molasses, mineral rock salt)
    1 Tsp Sea Green (3% humic acid)
    .5 Cup Alfalfa meal
    .5 cup soybean meal
    .5 cup cotton seed meal
    And then i add or subtract a guano depending on if i want to make a guano tea or not. If im making guano tea for veg i use .5 cup 9-3-1 guano and for flower i add a high p guano or sea bird guano. This has worked really well. Its a lot of ingredients but they last through at least 2 years of grows. Happy tea making.
     
    Last edited: May 31, 2017
    Moldy and madininagyal like this.
  5.  
    DonTesla

    DonTesla Well-Known Member

    I've been using a recipe from Tim the Microbe Man, but I've tweaked it to tone it down, and round it out, I noticed burn on many sat doms following his recipe..

    so now I use:

    2% total volume: diy worm compost / fungal compost

    (high humic acid content, bacterial dom, fungal dom soil prepared with fungal foods, depending on time/goals)

    and

    2-5 ml of evaporated cane juice crystals per 1000 mL tea (organic raw, harvested same day, molasses intact, less sugar toward the end)

    Of course, I do use bokashi, lacto, borage, chamomile, aloe, coconut, frass, kelp, etc etc sometimes too but usually only when I realize I didnt amend properly. With the exception of aloe, lacto, and coconut, those are staples for me.
     
    Johnei likes this.
  6.  
    BRANDON77

    BRANDON77 Well-Known Member

    basic tea recipe....looking for something simple, I just received all the ingredients from amazon...if anyone has anything extra to add to it im all ears!!!!


    COMPOST TEA RECIPE (5 GALLONS)

    2 CUPS EWC

    2 TBL ALFALFA MEAL

    2 TBL KELP MEAL

    2 TBL MOLASSES

    10 ML OF DIRT M.D. HUMIC/FULVIC ACID

    BUBBLE FOR 24-36 HOURS
     
  7.  
    Johnei

    Johnei Well-Known Member

    I added a heaping tablespoon of Peruvian Seabird Guano pellets into a 5gallon bucket of water and watered my outdoor regular garden near my house with it. Almost emedietly there were flies EVERYWHERE! Regular flies and those big green shit flies.. Just letting you know, is this good, is this bad.. all I know is, I didn't add anything else and a P.S.G. watering and boom flies swarming above the soil/plants right there like Attack of the Killer Shit Flies!

    Over'n'ouot'
     
  8.  
    Johnei

    Johnei Well-Known Member

    Just sharing, I wrote this a while ago. :joint:
     
  9.  
    BRANDON77

    BRANDON77 Well-Known Member

    how do my ratios look for a 36 hour bubbled tea????

    1 CUP EWC

    2 TBL KELP MEAL

    1 TBL ALFALFA MEAL

    1 TBL OATS

    1 TBL GUANO

    1 TBL MOLASSES

    1 TBL LIQUID HUMIC/FULVIC
     
  10.  
    Johnei

    Johnei Well-Known Member

    Assuming this is for about 4gallons or a llittle more water, It looks good, only small suggestions I can make is:
    Only use 1heaping TBSP of the Kelp meal, and only 1 teaspoon of the liquid humic/fulvic for whole tea. EWC is rich in humic/fulvic substances and the extra free floating humics you add will detract the microbes from their goal, it's not really needed in the tea, or if used, in micro micro doses just to help chelate the already digested minerals at the end of the brew for plant uptake. The kelp meal just will not get broken down in this time and so much is not needed; Mixing kelp meal in soil I use 1Tablespoon/gal. soil, using in tea I use 1teaspoon/gal. in the brew. So in 4+gal. bucket brew, about a heaping tablespoon. Your tea looks good! If you want it to lean to more N or to more P, use the guanos, increasing extra tablespoon of different kinds etc.

    Good growing!

    -edit-Besides the EWC.. basically everything listed do 1teaspoon/gal water, except humic/fulvic; only 1teaspoon per entire tea. I think this is best.
     
    Last edited: Jul 7, 2017
    swedsteven and BRANDON77 like this.
  11.  
    BRANDON77

    BRANDON77 Well-Known Member

    Yep. I use 4gal in a 5gal bucket.

    Thx!!!!
     
  12.  
    greyduck

    greyduck Member

    I built a mini microbulator brewer and am using an Elemental 571 gph pump. I was testing it out and was wondering if it was pumping out enough water to work properly. Does this look ok?

    imgur.com/a/EGIz2
     
  13.  
    MrKnotty

    MrKnotty Active Member

    I gave my ladies their first comfrey tea of the season. They just flipped into flower. I just let comfrey sit in water for 3 days. Strain and dilute. Sometimes I add a little BIM to these soaks, sometimes I don't. It's quite amazing the response the plants have after this tea. Try it if you haven't, it will stay in your tea schedule I promise!
     
  14.  
    Hpo777

    Hpo777 Member

    Remember to never put your AACT into metal containers! The zinc will kill the microbes!
     
  15.  
    Hpo777

    Hpo777 Member

    NEVER USE – Blackstrap molasses*** If you do some of your own reading online about compost tea brewing one of the biggest things you will run across is the recommendation to use blackstrap molasses as the microbial food in the tea. This used to be widely accepted as a great way of brewing tea. The issue is that without a firm understanding of soil biology and what microbes look like under a microscope people actually brew up anaerobic teas the majority of the time with blackstrap molasses. This is why that happens even with an air pump -- molasses is a simple sugar which feeds bacterial populations very quickly basically as junk food. As the bacterial populations grow they take over the entire tea and use up all the oxygen, this causes the tea to become anaerobic as soon as the ppm (parts per million) of dissolved oxygen drop below 8 (6ppm is the critical point). There are plenty of bacteria all over this planet and we really don’t need to brew up heavy bacterial teas, rather we want to brew up complex teas that have a huge variety of life in them, not only bacteria but also fungi, protozoa and nematodes. When you only feed simple sugars to the microbiology in the tea brewing process the bacteria will out multiply all the other good guys and take over the entire tea. We instead feed complex foods to the tea so the fungi, protozoa and nematodes have a chance to grow and multiply. If you really want to use molasses in your brewing it is highly advisable to also get yourself a microscope so you can monitor the tea and make sure you use it before it goes anaerobic. As that is not practical for most home gardeners your best bet is to follow our simple recipes for wonderful results.


    Whoa...just read this...hes a dam smart man
     

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