nfhiggs
Well-Known Member
That's what I'm saying. Much more efficient to just make red photons directly, than it is to convert blue photons to red.
Adding deep & far reds to Quantum Board build
- Thread starter Toohighmf
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Toohighmf
Well-Known Member
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
@tazztone
Yepp, but profits are getting smaller with higher intensities, there is only one * at 800μMol/s/m² and above.
The lower the PPFD the higher the benefits of adding far-red, at least with lettuce. But that does not apply to all types of plants in the same way. Again, there are old studies that show that C. reflects a lot of the far-red wavelength.
The spot you marked above refers to the PPDF of far-red light, the 8% increase was observed with 90μmol/s/m² additional far-red (max.). But again, this was about salad.
Most test here done with CRI90 show that you will get at best similar results but most of the time CRI90 finished earlier(by a week, depending on strain) and the yield is smaller because of that early finish.
If you use 800μMol/s/m², that's a DLI of ~35Mol/d or around 250Mol per week.
Although far-red makes photosyntisity more efficient, it's not enough to balance that amount of missing light. If you have an 8 week strain that only takes 7 weeks you would have to increase the PPFD theoreticly to 950μmol/s/m² to make up for the missing 250Mol.
Since this shortening often occurs in C., I assume that the more efficient use of -PSII with far-red rather shortens the maturation time.
Yepp, but profits are getting smaller with higher intensities, there is only one * at 800μMol/s/m² and above.
The lower the PPFD the higher the benefits of adding far-red, at least with lettuce. But that does not apply to all types of plants in the same way. Again, there are old studies that show that C. reflects a lot of the far-red wavelength.
The spot you marked above refers to the PPDF of far-red light, the 8% increase was observed with 90μmol/s/m² additional far-red (max.). But again, this was about salad.
Most test here done with CRI90 show that you will get at best similar results but most of the time CRI90 finished earlier(by a week, depending on strain) and the yield is smaller because of that early finish.
If you use 800μMol/s/m², that's a DLI of ~35Mol/d or around 250Mol per week.
Although far-red makes photosyntisity more efficient, it's not enough to balance that amount of missing light. If you have an 8 week strain that only takes 7 weeks you would have to increase the PPFD theoreticly to 950μmol/s/m² to make up for the missing 250Mol.
Since this shortening often occurs in C., I assume that the more efficient use of -PSII with far-red rather shortens the maturation time.
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Randomblame
Well-Known Member
What ever is available. If you can get strips with high efficient mono's, why not.
I've used COB's with additional deep and far-red and it does not so well. 290w 3500°k/CRI80 Cree COB's, 40w deep- and 10w far-red, 370w at the wall.
The stretch was amazing. SAS was partially extreme, with fewer nodes, huge light green leaves, spidery thin branches and a lot less yield. I was only able to use the extra deep and far-red in the second half of the flower. But even then, the results were more worse than without. They just matured too fast for my taste.
Maybe it was too much or I did something wrong, who knows?
For my part I will stay with white LED's only and mix 3k/CRI80 and 90(⅔ : ⅓). Far-red only for end of day treatment, no additional deep-reds anymore..., lol!
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tazztone
Active Member
one * stands for a p value of <0.05 . which is still plenty significant.
anyway ordered me 5pcs of Vestas and 2pcs 75W TRP-drivers to power 2700K and 5000K rows individually, should i ever want to (78$ shipped +7$ taxes).
i can compare them to my F562B 4000K. but i don't own no par meter, just a LUX-meter. plus: i am a complete noob to indoor growing anyway
Hinoon
Well-Known Member
Hi everyone, I do have a question, might sound stupid.
Everyone talks about plants need light according to chlorophylls absorbtion maxima for chlorophyll a 430nm / 660nm and b 480nm / 660nm. Now the absorbtions maxima is just a value at which wavelength the molecule of chlorophyll a or b absorbs the highest amounts of light itself in a solution. Of we look at the photosystems I and II, the peaks of where chlorophyll a and b (mainly A) is using photons to help them converting oxigen and water to ATP or NADPH is at a wavelenth by 680nm (photosystem II) or 700nm (photosystem I). Instead of triggering these monochromatic wavelength, wavelength of 660/630nm gets pushed. How comes and why not the ones which gives you the highest benefit for the power used ?
Everyone talks about plants need light according to chlorophylls absorbtion maxima for chlorophyll a 430nm / 660nm and b 480nm / 660nm. Now the absorbtions maxima is just a value at which wavelength the molecule of chlorophyll a or b absorbs the highest amounts of light itself in a solution. Of we look at the photosystems I and II, the peaks of where chlorophyll a and b (mainly A) is using photons to help them converting oxigen and water to ATP or NADPH is at a wavelenth by 680nm (photosystem II) or 700nm (photosystem I). Instead of triggering these monochromatic wavelength, wavelength of 660/630nm gets pushed. How comes and why not the ones which gives you the highest benefit for the power used ?
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
That's simple, mate, there are no 680-700nm LED's available and 660 / 630nm is not that far off. You should not just look at the PSI/PSII peaks, but at the entire McCree curve.
wietefras
Well-Known Member
Nice compilation of a wide assortment of those curves. Wonder how they ever arrived at that DIN5031-10-2000 curve.
Looks like the Germans have a new version ready again with DIN 5031-10:2018-03
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
mahiluana
Well-Known Member
i think the best option to trigger wavelenghts > 660nm is a full spectrum of < 1800K pinkish white
made by red phosphor leds
ChiefRunningPhist
Well-Known Member
QB 304 plus w 48 epistar 660nm..
What about these? @Randomblame do you think these would have that negative impact that you were describing?
What about these? @Randomblame do you think these would have that negative impact that you were describing?
fragileassassin
Well-Known Member
I use these in my flower tent. Im only just finishing up my first crop with them, but i havent really seen the things he is describing with the nodes and branches. The only plants of mine that had thin branches or spaced out nodes were the ones that werent close enough to the panels because they were shorter than the rest so they stretched a bit up to the light.
Ive been happy with the results from them so far, but I dont have much to compare it to personally.
I did this run with 16x of those 304+ boards in 3500k and knew it wasnt going to be enough for the results I wanted because I dont have enough wattage for my space, but they really surprised me and things went way better than I was expecting.
Will be adding 8 more 3000k 288 boards to my flower setup.
ChiefRunningPhist
Well-Known Member
What's their max wattage
ChiefRunningPhist
Well-Known Member
Bout to pull the trigger on (4) for a 4x4 tent, use a 600w driver??
fragileassassin
Well-Known Member
theyre 120w each.
They use 1200ma each at max and require a 110v output from your drivers or 220v if you run them in series.
None of the HLG 600w drivers have an output voltage high enough and I havent looked at any other brands.
Theres not a driver that runs 4 of them near max well unless you have a 220v outlet imo. If you must have all 4 on 1 driver, a hlg-480H-C3500 is the most you can do with 110v. This will push 4 boards wired in parallel to around 78%
If you have a 220v outlet you could run 1 HLG-480H-C2100B with the boards wired in series-parallel and thatll push them pretty high around 87% i believe.
IMO the best driver for them is a HLG-240h-C2100 per 2 boards. One of them will push 2 boards at around 90% max and 2 of these are cheaper than 1 of the 480s.
ChiefRunningPhist
Well-Known Member
What about?
480h c2100a
2S/2P
EDIT:
Just saw that 2 was cheaper than 1..
What about FSP Powerland drivers?
ChiefRunningPhist
Well-Known Member
Picked up (4) 304 w 660nm + (4) heatsinks now just scoping for the cheap driver..
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fragileassassin
Well-Known Member
Ive only looked at HLG drivers.Btw guys...
View attachment 4256906
Lol she wants me
Picked up (4) 304 w 660nm + (4) heatsinks now just scoping for the cheap driver..
you need something with 110v output and close to either 2400ma or 4800ma the 110v output really limits HLG options.
ChiefRunningPhist
Well-Known Member
I'm only using (4) per 16ft2, so I think ill want to drive them closer to 150w?? That sound right?
Because of that, im thinking the 240h per (2) will be to little?
I found this..
And thought I could dim it to 300w for (2) in parallel. That's 150w ÷ (2.1A ÷ 2) = 142v, or 3.76v per lm561c. Can they handle that?
If not then I think my best option is to do the 240h c2100a × 2 like you were saying, are we on the same page?