All Natural Organics. The Dons' Summaries + FAQ Thread. <2017-'18>

Discussion in 'Organics' started by DonTesla, Nov 17, 2017.

  1.  
    SSGrower

    SSGrower Well-Known Member

    I used 1/2 and 1/2 on a petunia that had it cause I didnt have milk. To my recollection 1 tablespoon in a quart, i had found a recipe for milk then reduced it by 1/2. In my understanding the basic Idea is to throw of pH or just change it upmor down didnt really matter. The recipie i gave worked on the petunia, took a coplemof applications.
     
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  2.  
    DonTesla

    DonTesla Well-Known Member

  3.  
    DonTesla

    DonTesla Well-Known Member

    It does need to be charged, I prefer a 'dry' slow aerobic charge vs a wet charge. Like a compost or casting charge vs a tea or soak. And a nice texture. Rice grain size mixed with chip size to provide microbial housing and apartments.

    You do this once you & never have to do it again. Its a premium aeration that supports micro life while slowly release what you charged it with, thanks to its millions of microspores. 10% is great for me, but even 2 is good and anything up to 15 is great.

    Let me know what shipping's like from the dudes here
    BioChar Now Price Sheet.png
     
  4.  
    firstnamelast

    firstnamelast Well-Known Member

    Looks like I'll have to call them tomorrow. In the mean time I found this
    https://www.planetnatural.com/product/organic-biochar/
    I think I assumed too much that a bigger recipe would = a much more complicated grow. With the way my friend does it, it certainly would be since I'd have to amend my soil with every single ingredient again according to him. I'm seeing now it isn't the case with no-till. Maybe I should open my mind up to whatever is the BEST no-till methods period and forget simplicity. Because it's already going to be much simpler.

    I'm not trying to cheap out anyway I do want the best I can get. Sorry if you feel I've wasted your time, I have learned a lot though! Also what is an alternative to soft rock phosphate? I've heard nasty things about it.
     
    Last edited: Jan 11, 2018
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  5.  
    firstnamelast

    firstnamelast Well-Known Member

    Where can I find the most recent issue of The Don's No Tills No Frills Super Patented Public Recipe #1?
     
    Last edited: Jan 11, 2018
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  6.  
    ShLUbY

    ShLUbY Well-Known Member

    honestly man, i would ditch the rice hulls if you're only going to use pumice as the other portion. they saturate within a month, and just don't cut it IMO for drainage material. I like them much better as a mulch. you'd be better off with mostly pumice and then the remaining portion bio char. just speaking from experience about the hulls. I was pretty disappointed with them as a drainage material.
     
  7.  
    firstnamelast

    firstnamelast Well-Known Member

    Cool thanks for the input, so far I've decided on pumice, biochar, diatomaceous earth, and leaf mold for aeration. I doubt I'm gonna use that recipe I posted
     
    Last edited: Jan 12, 2018
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  8.  
    firstnamelast

    firstnamelast Well-Known Member

    I can assume page 1 of this thread of course, but you never know there might be an updated one somewhere!
     
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  9.  
    ShLUbY

    ShLUbY Well-Known Member

    i mean there's not a lot wrong with your recipe you have. if it were me, i would drop the fish meal. i would go something like 1/2 cup OSF and 1/4 cup lime to balance the Ca/Mg ratio. and i would reduce gypsum to 1/2 cup.

    I also think you are wise to topdress the langbenite for flower. i would try and make a mixture of NPK with N being the lowest value, and P and K being the higher values. remember the numbers are represented by % of weight (not mass), so adjust accordingly. this would be a good "bloom mix" to topdress a plant with right around the time of flip. i usually topdress mine around the 2nd week, and by the 4th week its breaking down nicely and carrying them all the way through flower.

    the first no till run you won't need to top dress as heavy because your soil will still contain a lot of mineral nutrition because it's the initial mix. but subsequent runs will require more generous topdressing because you'll basically be feeding the plant from the upper most horizon and the lower horizons will become more for drawing up group 3 and group 4 minerals and water (cations and metals for photosynthetic reactions).

    also, do you have a worm farm? if not, i suggest starting one ASAP. and then make sure to put some worms in your no-till containers so they help work that upper horizon and keep things breaking down to become plant available!
     
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  10.  
    firstnamelast

    firstnamelast Well-Known Member

    I do have a worm farm going! It's super basic at the moment, just worms in a bin right now lol. Should I put some worms in my seedlings' soil? These little guys are always trying to escape. I didn't catch why fish meal is no good. Thanks for the reply!
     
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  11.  
    ShLUbY

    ShLUbY Well-Known Member

    nah i wouldn't worry about putting them in the seedling soil. they shouldn't be trying to escape.... you might want to seek advice as to why they are trying to get out!

    the fish meal is just high N and high P. that much N is really unnecessary and you already have plenty with the alfalfa meal, frass, and neem. you have plenty of P with the fishbone meal (which i also use and like). fish meal is just a redundant ingredient in this recipe IMO. each ingredient should serve a purpose! redundancy will only result in imbalances.

    take a step back and look at your overall nutrient profile. this is how you learn to cut an ingredient, or notice that you need to add something to fill a purpose
     
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  12.  
    firstnamelast

    firstnamelast Well-Known Member

    Thanks I appreciate it. I'd like to cut out all redundancies, any of that is just wasted energy and resources. I'm leaning towards just doing The Don's recipe on page 1 here. He watered it down for me but I don't think I should take any shortcuts.

    Maybe I sprayed the bin too much, felt like a light mist. Or put too much food in there. They're climbing on the walls of the bin and on the lid
     
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  13.  
    ShLUbY

    ShLUbY Well-Known Member

    i rarely ever add any water to my bin. i keep a piece of panda film covering the bedding which prevents evaporation. your scraps you put in it should have all the water the bin needs after the initial dampening. sounds like your medium is too wet to me. you do have drainage holes in the bin yes?
     
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  14.  
    firstnamelast

    firstnamelast Well-Known Member

    Haven't put any at the bottom yet, I need to add a couple more layers to my bin too. I'm surprised I only pumped about 4 squirts onto the bedding when I first put it in there. Are citrus or banana peels ok to feed them?
     
    Last edited: Jan 12, 2018
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  15.  
    ShLUbY

    ShLUbY Well-Known Member

    what is your bedding made of? did you pre wet the bedding before mixing it all together? most do not feed citrus because it's a natural anti microbial. banana peels are great! generally, things that have higher amounts of natural sugars like banana, apple, carrot, sweet potato, etc are broken down quickly by sugar feeding microbes in the bin and create the "slurp" that the worms love to feed on. also, did you provide them some grit? a quart of sandy loam soil will work, rock dusts, oyster shell flour, etc, which will aid their digestion.

    my worm bin recipe

    1 part leaves, 1 part peat moss (both pre soaked/hydrated)
    1/2 part pumice
    1/2 cup oyster shell flour per cubic foot to help with maintaining steady pH
    1 cup rock dust per cubic foot

    mix all ingredients thoroughly.

    i fill about 8-10" of bedding into my tote. then i'll put down a light layer of outdoor compost and a quart of sandy soil (the worms love compost), then i'll add any scraps i have (preferably ones starting to break down already or will be quickly broken down like pulp from my juicer). I also sprinkle some cannabis leaf meal, kelp meal, greensand, OSF, and coffee grounds (couple TBSP of each) on top of the food scraps. then i take the remaining couple inches of bedding and lay that on top, put the worms on top of that, and shine a light on it for an hour or so to make them dive down into the bedding.

    hope that helps.
     
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  16.  
    firstnamelast

    firstnamelast Well-Known Member

    Those are some great ideas thank you! I'm using care fresh paper bedding for my rabbit lol. I followed the directions that came with the worms and that's about it. I sprayed the bedding right before I tossed it in, I didn't soak it or anything. I heard bad things about citrus I wanted to double check, I eat bananas all day long though haha. I haven't added any of what you suggested this is the first time I'm hearing it. I've been holding off ordering anything until I get my recipe down 100%
     
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  17.  
    firstnamelast

    firstnamelast Well-Known Member

    I don't think the bedding was any good, I took it all out. It has an absorbing agent in it and they won't say what's it is
     
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  18.  
    ShLUbY

    ShLUbY Well-Known Member

    yup, that would definitely make them want to leave!
     
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  19.  
    firstnamelast

    firstnamelast Well-Known Member

    How do I save a dying seedling? It was never put into the soil correctly, the root is shooting up and out. Is it safe to dig it up and re-root it or am I wasting my time trying?
     
    Last edited: Jan 14, 2018
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  20.  
    Joe Blows Trees

    Joe Blows Trees Well-Known Member

    I used a tbsp of milk in a qt. I'll be hitting them again for the next three to four weeks. Hopefully that'll keep it away. It's predominantly on my og kush plants. Other than PM, the plants are growing fine.


    Thanks for the info. I'll get back to you with my results. I started light on the milk/water mix and figured I would make it stronger as needed. Plants are looking good otherwise. Lights come on later today so I'll see how they responded soon.
     
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