muleface
Well-Known Member
The numbers looked like they were at 1.4 ma for the Samsung at 1200 mm. I'll check again
I also looked at 3500k for both.
3k and 4k will have different lux numbers, so we need to look at the same temperature
Bridgelux EB Series Build
- Thread starter brahbbyB
- Start date
I also looked at 3500k for both.
3k and 4k will have different lux numbers, so we need to look at the same temperature
PicklesRus
Well-Known Member
The Samsung are rated a lower lm/w.... looking at the specs they are so close, I really don't think my PAR measurements should be taken as gospel - if the lm/w is pretty much the same how can we say the Samsung are that much better?
muleface
Well-Known Member
There are 3 different models for the Samsung LED strips, A, B and C. The A has the least LEDs and the C has the most. I will be looking at the C. I also didn't consider the fact that the voltage is lower on the Samsungs, so you could get more leds per Driver.
@ 1400 ma / 3500k the Samsung C (SI-B8U341B20WW) strip runs at 24 volts and gives off 5150 lx at 33.6 watts. its lm/w is 153
@ 1400 ma / 3500k the Bridgelux (BXEB-L1120Z-35E4000-C-A3) strip run at 46.5 volts and gives off 8724 lx @ 65.2 watts.its lm/w is 134
so on a hlg-240h-c1400 you could run 7 samsung @ 36050 lux C's @ $162 or 3 Bridgelux @ 26172 lux @ $106 ($14 per strip and $64 per driver)
With the samsung a dollar gets you 222.5 lm
Bridgelux a dollar gets you 246.9 lm
to get to 100k lm:
20 samsung (672 watts)
20 x $14 = $280
3 x $64 = $192
= $472
12 bridgelux (782 watts)
12 x $14 = $168
4 x $64 = $ 256
= $ 424
The cost is pretty close, there would need to be more infrastructure with the samsungs, so that cost would go up. but the cost of operation would be less after the initial capital cost.
assuming you are running your lights 12 hours a day, you would chew up and additional 481 kwh with the bridelux costing around $48 per year (@ 10 cents a kwh). so basically the driver/led initial cost amortized over the year, throw in the extra cost to mount 8 more strips, it pushes you to about 2 years to break even.
But the light coverage would be much better with the samsungs.
Samsung: both charts note 1.4 ma @ 3500k
Bridgelux
@ 1400 ma / 3500k the Samsung C (SI-B8U341B20WW) strip runs at 24 volts and gives off 5150 lx at 33.6 watts. its lm/w is 153
@ 1400 ma / 3500k the Bridgelux (BXEB-L1120Z-35E4000-C-A3) strip run at 46.5 volts and gives off 8724 lx @ 65.2 watts.its lm/w is 134
so on a hlg-240h-c1400 you could run 7 samsung @ 36050 lux C's @ $162 or 3 Bridgelux @ 26172 lux @ $106 ($14 per strip and $64 per driver)
With the samsung a dollar gets you 222.5 lm
Bridgelux a dollar gets you 246.9 lm
to get to 100k lm:
20 samsung (672 watts)
20 x $14 = $280
3 x $64 = $192
= $472
12 bridgelux (782 watts)
12 x $14 = $168
4 x $64 = $ 256
= $ 424
The cost is pretty close, there would need to be more infrastructure with the samsungs, so that cost would go up. but the cost of operation would be less after the initial capital cost.
assuming you are running your lights 12 hours a day, you would chew up and additional 481 kwh with the bridelux costing around $48 per year (@ 10 cents a kwh). so basically the driver/led initial cost amortized over the year, throw in the extra cost to mount 8 more strips, it pushes you to about 2 years to break even.
But the light coverage would be much better with the samsungs.
Samsung: both charts note 1.4 ma @ 3500k
Bridgelux
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caretak3r
Well-Known Member
I've spent a fair bit of time studying the samsung specsheets and recently compared them to the EB series. The EB's are a great value for driving them at nominal power. If,however, you want to underdrive the LEDs to gain better efficacy, it seems the samsungs really shine in comparison in this space. So... if you want 180 lm/W buy samsung strips using lm561b+ chips (M series). If you want to run155/160 lm/W, I think the EBs may be the better value.
PicklesRus
Well-Known Member
I an building a couple seedling racks, so I ordered 6 of the low intensity 4' Samsung strips.
I might go with the Samsung for my next build but overall, both the Samsung and the bridgelux I think are very good, with the Samsung being slightly more efficient.
I might go with the Samsung for my next build but overall, both the Samsung and the bridgelux I think are very good, with the Samsung being slightly more efficient.
PicklesRus
Well-Known Member
We will see, I think they will be perfect for seedlings though.
I think two per 2'x4' rack will do nicely, but I ordered 6 in case 3 per space work better.
Seedling incubator
It will let me put about 8 only me 120h
muleface
Well-Known Member
suppose i wanted to run 50 of these (any of them, it doesn't really matter), does anyone make a huge driver? Something i could run 50 or more led strips from? Even if it cost 1k
edit:
maybe something like this...
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/rsp-3000-48/mean-well-enterprises?utm_source=FindChips&utm_medium=invListing&utm_campaign=FC2015
Volts = 48
amps = 62.5
watts = 3000
bridgelux 4 foot:
volts = 45.3
amps = 1
watts = 45.3
could you run 62 of them?
that would run them at
45 volts
1 amp
48 watts
total lux = 410254
you would need to run them in parallel.
or would this burn my house down?
edit:
maybe something like this...
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/rsp-3000-48/mean-well-enterprises?utm_source=FindChips&utm_medium=invListing&utm_campaign=FC2015
Volts = 48
amps = 62.5
watts = 3000
bridgelux 4 foot:
volts = 45.3
amps = 1
watts = 45.3
could you run 62 of them?
that would run them at
45 volts
1 amp
48 watts
total lux = 410254
you would need to run them in parallel.
or would this burn my house down?
Last edited:
Been moving slow on this lately, finally threw it in the tent. ~1" of clearence on sides and ~3" on the fixture in my 48"x30" tent.
Put 2 more temperature sensors on there (out rail and hanging for ambient temp). Zipped it up run it for hour or two and see where temps settle. Then sensors are all talking in on the ESP8266/Micropython, next step will be adding in some relays/fans for humidity/temp control.
Put 2 more temperature sensors on there (out rail and hanging for ambient temp). Zipped it up run it for hour or two and see where temps settle. Then sensors are all talking in on the ESP8266/Micropython, next step will be adding in some relays/fans for humidity/temp control.
BuddyColas
Well-Known Member
$360 for such an even blanket of photons, very impressive!
You could pair that with a bunch of CC Buck drivers (Meanwell LDD's or some generic), but you may want to run the numbers on a bunch of smaller ~500w or so PSU's (Also cheaper to replace). 50x LDD-1000h @ Sager would put you at ~$207. You could connect directly to the pins to save $ on PCB mounting.
muleface
Well-Known Member
i looked at that briefly, but didn't really understand how it worked, or what i needed. you have a link to a video that explains it to me. or can you lay it out (in simpleton terms)
muleface
Well-Known Member
what am i looking at here? it looks pretty cool, can you put a parts list with it?
PicklesRus
Well-Known Member
Have you been following this thread? Haha
Page 4 (sensors/breadboard/eyebolts not in there):
Power/Drivers Cost
10 x LDD-1000H (one spare) $52 shipped ($41.40 w/o shipping) @ Sager Electronics
480W 48V PSU $35 shipped @ eBay
2x 5up LDD Coralux PCB’s $32 shipped @ LEDGroupbuy
Wire ~$5 (had laying around)
Total $124
Frame Cost
2x 1x1x96” Square Aluminum Tubing $33 @ Home Depot
24x48” 20 Gauge Al Sheet $29 shipped @ OnlineMetalSupply
#6 x 1/2” Self Tapping Screws $5 @ Home Depot
Brackets ~$3 (had lying around)
Total: $70
LED’s
9x BXEB-L1120Z-40E4000-C-A3 $158
Wifi PWM Controller
ESP8266 NodeMCA $8
Total $360
BuddyColas
Well-Known Member
Your test was in a sealed tent?
Not 100% airtight, but inside and outside ports tightened up as a much as they could and door zipped.
Edit: PSU was kept outside but the 9x Meanwell LDD-1000h are mounted on standoffs to aluminum sheet. Tent = 48"x32"x59"