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Coco: Tips, techniques, and the facts you will need

Discussion in 'Drain-To-Waste Hydro' started by burgertime2010, Mar 30, 2013.

  1.  
    KingBlunted

    KingBlunted Well-Known Member

    Rx green solutions simple A/B nutrient line flourishes from 4.5 - 5.5 pH. You can even Reach out to them for free samples. They have a major research and development facility in Denver and I have seen thc tests as high as 33.6%. Their facility is entirely 78% coco and 22% perlite mix.
     
  2.  
    BiG PuFFer

    BiG PuFFer Well-Known Member

    Im about to start my first CoCo grow. I got bioniccare coco. I plan on mixing a little perlite and dolomite lime in with it.
    Im using House and Garden nutes and add some cal-mag. Its going to be a drip drip sysetem in 5galroot pouches. All this in a 4x4 tent with a 615cmh. Any tips or info are appreciated. This is my first coco and first time dripping.
     
  3.  
    since1991

    since1991 Well-Known Member

    Knock them 5 gal fabric pots down to 2.5 or 3 gallon. If you already bought them just fold em down. Unless you are growing tall and wide 4 to 7 foot trees ive found 5 gals of coco to be overkill. 2 and 3 gallon especially the root pruning fabric pots are the sweet spot with kost indoor coco grown plants. Especially tent growing. You want them roots drinking nute solution daily and a a dry pot (not bone dry and wilting -but ready for a drink)ready for a drip feed daily with nutes is ideal. Make sure you get a 10 to 20% runoff into the catch saucers. Use little one inch cuts of pvc pipe for "risers" so your pots arent soaking in salty spent solution amd just shop vac it out after a feed. New transplants like even drier pots to get them roots set.up to explode. Think a peat soilless mix type of feed/water program for the first week or two. Then hammer em daily and even multiple daily feeds once their up and jamming. Ive found 5 gallons just dont dry out daily like the smaller threes and twos. Not saying its a huge deal but try it. You use less coco and they love the daily watering. A pH ec/tds combo meter is your ally and keep.it clean and.calibrated monthly.
     
    Last edited: Aug 21, 2016
    coreywebster and boilingoil like this.
  4.  
    since1991

    since1991 Well-Known Member

    Oh...and dont use dolomite lime with coco. Its nothing like acidic peat based mixes and the pH of coco is much more stable than peat. Lime is not needed. One of the reasons coco in my opinion is superior to traditional peat base soilless mixes. Your gonna dig coco...i promise. Use a coco specific nutrient brand and if your tap is decent....around 100 to 250 ppm (500.scale) a cal mag additive most likely will not be needed. Botanicare cns17 has a decent amount of cal in it. Canna coco nute has even more. Plus plenty of mag. And dont get carried away with additives...boosters and what not. Most coco specific base nute brands will throw out a banging crop without all the extras. I do suggest a potassium silicate like Dynagro or Europonic (Ionic brand) silica. Those are some of the more concentrated brands. The advanced RhinoSkin and Botanicare Silica blast is extremely watered down crap. You will see thicker stronger stems with potassium silicate and powdery midew spot and bugs have a hard time sitting up shop with the thicker leaves and stems that silicate will give you. Keep canopy temp at 75 to 80 degrees and humidity 60 to 70 % when vegging and drop it down when flowering...settling about 45 to 55 % rh when in peak bloom. Lots of circilation fans blowing around and make sure your humidity doesnt spike huge when lights turn off. An led green headlamp for night work is your friend here. And they are cheap. Good luck homie. Grow fat healthy juicy lunkers.
     
    Last edited: Aug 21, 2016
    coreywebster likes this.
  5.  
    fuzzyjay

    fuzzyjay New Member

    Im currently trying to condition my coco. Have poured 3x the volume of coco in water through at 5.8 and the recommended ppms of Cal-Mag and nutes. Still coming out at 5.2 every time. Anyone have any advice???

    "Our objective is to rinse the coco with large amounts of water containing Cal-mag @120ppm and 200ppm of Veg solution at a ph of 5.8. This breaks the medium of its tendency to drift towards 6.1PH. So, once 5.8 is reached the runoff will indicate so"
     
  6.  
    fuzzyjay

    fuzzyjay New Member

    Got it close to coming out same as it came in. Went ahead and transplanted so we shall see....
     
  7.  
    Sneex

    Sneex Active Member

    I'm new to growing in general and got a plant handed to me and I brought it back to life check it out please I wanna improve all aspects of my box and growing with coco I wanna make it dtw but don't know where to start? gonna start reading this thread NOW!! ;)
     
  8.  
    danzibar1234

    danzibar1234 Member

    Maybe just feed them less nutes

    I have always been under the belief that once u over feed plants it might not have any affect on them but taste wise it's not a god ending....

    I clearly seen this Running coco along side a wilma setup using clay pebbles and rock wool
     
  9.  
    since1991

    since1991 Well-Known Member

    I been saying for years...most strains will rock out in coco with a coco nutrient at 750 ppm (1.5 ec) and a pH of 6.0 or 5.8 to 6.2. You dont have to be exact and its good to let it drift. When making up your tanks...set it at 5.7 or so and let the natural alkalinity (if your using tap water at 100 to 250 ppm which is - perfect) rise up on ots own. When your tanks are near empty...the pH should be about 6.1 or 6.2. A good coco specific base nutrient is all you need. These numbers.are the sweet spot for damn near every strain ive grown in coco coir. 2 or 3 gallon pots. 10 to 15% runoff every feed. Dont use drip clean or any thing else. Just try it.
     
  10.  
    Michiganjesse

    Michiganjesse Well-Known Member

    Good idea pvc pipe to keep pots out of water.
     
    since1991 likes this.
  11.  
    bryangtho

    bryangtho Well-Known Member

    I've been using strait coco for a lot of years. I run what you call a run to waste system. I think it's one of the best ways of growing. And one of the fastest the best thing about ran to waste is you only use the nutes once and the rest gos to waste. This way you have very little salt buildup. I try to aim for about 15 to 20 litres of waste a week
     
    since1991 likes this.
  12.  
    Chunky Stool

    Chunky Stool Well-Known Member

    Is that the same as drain to waste?
    I've also had good luck growing in plain coco, and I did it outside. I used a fairly large cloth pot and didn't have to feed every day. More like every three or four days.
    Next time I run coco, I'll pre-charge it with cal-mag. I was dealing with mag deficiency for several weeks... :-(
     
    bryangtho likes this.
  13.  
    coreywebster

    coreywebster Well-Known Member

    I forgot how much of a cal issue it can cause, I have been recycling it for 5 years and only adding very small amounts of new as needed. Until recently when I changed to 18ltr cloth pots and I had had a break from growing and chucked a 100 or so liters away. I was potting up from 11ltr pots and ran out of my recycled coco for the last 3 (of 7) pots, ran down to pick some new stuff up from the shop, I was battling the cal def for a few weeks even though I gave them a good dose. The difference between the 4 in old coco and the 3 with new was crazy. Funny because I was wondering if recycling it for so long was going to cause any isuues, it clearly doesn't.
     
    Chunky Stool likes this.
  14.  
    Chunky Stool

    Chunky Stool Well-Known Member

    New coco is naturally pre-charged with P and Na. Pre-charging with cal-mag displaces P and Na, which helps get you off to a good start. Has something to do with cation exchange.
     
    coreywebster likes this.
  15.  
    coreywebster

    coreywebster Well-Known Member

    AH nice, I didn't know that. I knew it grabbed calcium and made it unavailable until it stopped grabbing it. Something to do with the positive ions in one of the 3 grades of coco they use to make up the bag. I don't remember the names of the 3 grades used.
     
    Chunky Stool likes this.
  16.  
    Chunky Stool

    Chunky Stool Well-Known Member

    Oops, I meant to say coco is naturally charged with K, not P. :dunce:
     
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  17.  
    since1991

    since1991 Well-Known Member

    Coco coir is loaded with potassium which your plants can use. A good fertilizer designed for coco should have lower amounts of k to account for this. Should also have higher calcium..magnesium..and iron than a normal hydroponic base nutrient. Plants grown in coco really take off with extras like fulvic and amino acids. Fulvic makes iron more available and the amino acid (especially glycine) acts as a natural calcium chelate. If your tap is 0.5 ec or less (and you know its calcium magnesium amd iron)....use fulvic and amino acids derived from plant protein hydrolysate. And your tap is now a calmag....ready and good to go.
     
  18.  
    Chunky Stool

    Chunky Stool Well-Known Member

    Coco is also loaded with Na, which can cause major problems. I think that's why people like to make sure it is thoroughly rinsed before use. Gets it to a "clean slate", which is desireable for soilless.
    The other additives you described sound like the ingredients in GH Floralicious Plus! It is a very good product.
    When steeping nutrient tea, I always add lots of humic acid. Plants really dig it, and it's cheap if you make your own concentrate.
    2 lbs of dry powder makes 4 gallons of concentrate for $25
    https://www.amazon.com/TeraVita-SP-...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=DRKHC3BEG96TP5T94YD3
     
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