cxa3070 build flickering

Al Yamoni

Well-Known Member
Alrighty folks, so my light is "flickering" for lack of a better word. It's like it goes slightly dim for a half second randomly every few seconds. Today is the first time I've noticed it and it's been in use for over a month.

It's a string of five cobs running off of 1 Meanwell HLG-185h-c1050b and there is no dimmer switch hooked up atm.
 

churchhaze

Well-Known Member
Sounds like a bad connection. Is it soldered or are you using holders with connectors? The going dim for a few seconds is probably just the capacitor being drained, then turning back on.
 

Al Yamoni

Well-Known Member
Sounds like a bad connection. Is it soldered or are you using holders with connectors? The going dim for a few seconds is probably just the capacitor being drained, then turning back on.
Holders and connectors. Wire ends are tinned and in crimp connectors
 

Al Yamoni

Well-Known Member
Sounds like a bad connection. Is it soldered or are you using holders with connectors? The going dim for a few seconds is probably just the capacitor being drained, then turning back on.
Thanks by the way, it's so bright I can't tell which if not all are flickering. What would you recommend that I do?
 

churchhaze

Well-Known Member
Holders and connectors. Wire ends are tinned and in crimp connectors
Unplug the driver with the leds still connected so it drains the capacitors, then tug on each of the wires. I had this exact same issue with my new build with the ideal holders. One of them came loose easily, and it pushed it back in and it started working right.
 

Al Yamoni

Well-Known Member
Unplug the driver with the leds still connected so it drains the capacitors, then tug on each of the wires. I had this exact same issue with my new build with the ideal holders. One of them came loose easily, and it pushed it back in and it started working right.
While the unit is running?
 

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
1) Get yourself a "welder's mask" plain replacement glass (usually tinted dark green ) .
P3012494.JPG

With that you can always check the operation of the COB and of course check upon the diodes of the COBs..

2) If you're using Ideal array holders ,lightly pull out with your fingers all the wiring from the holders ..
None of the wires should come out loose from the connectors.
In case that a wire or more disconnects when you pull it
with your fingers ,that's a "bad connection" ,which may causing the " random flickering " issue.
Strip the insulation of the wires at least 5 mm .
If it is multistranded ,contrary to what is suggested ,twist the strands tightly together and push the bare wire end into the connector.
It should be felt like a"clicking" clamping action.

3)Check for shorting of bare wiring with the heat-sink .

...,.And/or -as the mains might be causing this phenomenon also ....
4) Install an EMI filter .

Is the CC driver earthed/grounded ?
If yes ...
...Not so possible to happen ,but it could be a reason , so ....
5) Check the mains ground/earth condition.
Specially check for -severe- mains leakage currents to earth/ground.

Cheers.
:peace:
 

Abiqua

Well-Known Member
I haven't been impressed with chip lok;s...

Today I noticed I could just pull one of the wires [16awg] right out with virtually no tug..... even after cutting it to the length and installing as per the "official vid"
This was the 2nd time I have noticed this, no matter how carefully I cut them, and force them in, some don't seem to set right at all.....

 

churchhaze

Well-Known Member
I haven't been impressed with chip lok;s...

Today I noticed I could just pull one of the wires [16awg] right out with virtually no tug..... even after cutting it to the length and installing as per the "official vid"
This was the 2nd time I have noticed this, no matter how carefully I cut them, and force them in, some don't seem to set right at all.....

I noticed the same thing with thicker gauged wires. They seem to hold better with thinner gauge, solid core, at least for the smaller holders. I agree that it's pretty dangerous.
 
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stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
Personally ,as a DIYer ,once more I should note couple of things ...

The "small details" that make a whola lot of a difference ,are not there in the-relatively small- efficiency differences
between COBs / LEDS used or of the way they are used or of the exact "tuned" spectrum .
Those "small differences " belong absolutely to the grower him/herself.-
As also PSUAGRO,recently has pointed out , in another thread..

Sure ,there are some other small differences,that make a whole lot of a difference,
regarding our precious solid state light units.
No ,they are not there to easily notice always ...Not in the surface of the "numbers" ,directly to be compared...

Efficiency comes with a "price" ?

Well.....In certain cases ...Yes,it seems so ...
Still...
Efficiency is a fluid thing ..
It changes over time ..Haitz's law..

Assuming that the "package " is kept the same physically - standardized- ,
then every couple of years or so ,
newer editions of the same packages will be constantly emerging ...
More efficient ,every time ...

So ..The package itself is quite of a such "small detail" ...

( Does it need a holder ?
Does it connect via soldering ,if wished so ?
Any special connectors ?
Material ? Size ?
And many more of ?????? )

What seems "DIY preferable-DIY wiser " ,really ?
Chasing the absolute efficiency -every couple of years - even with a " small price" to be paid ,in some cases ?

or ..
Establishing a "basis" -a light fixture - that can be serviced and/or updated quite easily and efficiently
,even if it's bearing not the "top of the top" |COB / LED units of each ..given semester ,but still
bearing some of the current top class COBs -of the given semester ...LOL -


Remember ,the grower makes lots more of a difference than the "efficiency difference" of two different COBs ..
I totally support that one ..

Cheers.
 

churchhaze

Well-Known Member
I'm not going to retire the vero 18 and vero 29 setups. I'm only 1/3 cxb now.

The name "vero killer" was meant to be a joke! All the lights I've been making have had the name killer in it... but the problem with recursive killers is that the new model always kills the last one!

It will be a while before the veros get retired... i think.... lol.

Personally ,as a DIYer ,once more I should note couple of things ...

The "small details" that make a whola lot of a difference ,are not there in the-relatively small- efficiency differences
between COBs / LEDS used or of the way they are used or of the exact "tuned" spectrum .
Those "small differences " belong absolutely to the grower him/herself.-
As also PSUAGRO,recently has pointed out , in another thread..

Sure ,there are some other small differences,that make a whole lot of a difference,
regarding our precious solid state light units.
No ,they are not there to easily notice always ...Not in the surface of the "numbers" ,directly to be compared...

Efficiency comes with a "price" ?

Well.....In certain cases ...Yes,it seems so ...
Still...
Efficiency is a fluid thing ..
It changes over time ..Haitz's law..

Assuming that the "package " is kept the same physically - standardized- ,
then every couple of years or so ,
newer editions of the same packages will be constantly emerging ...
More efficient ,every time ...

So ..The package itself is quite of a such "small detail" ...

( Does it need a holder ?
Does it connect via soldering ,if wished so ?
Any special connectors ?
Material ? Size ?
And many more of ?????? )

What seems "DIY preferable-DIY wiser " ,really ?
Chasing the absolute efficiency -every couple of years - even with a " small price" to be paid ,in some cases ?

or ..
Establishing a "basis" -a light fixture - that can be serviced and/or updated quite easily and efficiently
,even if it's bearing not the "top of the top" |COB / LED units of each ..given semester ,but still
bearing some of the current top class COBs -of the given semester ...LOL -


Remember ,the grower makes lots more of a difference than the "efficiency difference" of two different COBs ..
I totally support that one ..

Cheers.
 

LED Lighting

New Member
Abiqua:

Noticed you were using 16 AWG with the holder: "could just pull one of the wires [16awg] right out with virtually no tug"

The IDEAL Chip-Lok Holders are rated for maximum wire size of 18 AWG. You are probably having trouble with both the large insulation diameter fitting into the plastic port as well is the larger conductor. The products will work fine with 18 AWG and many smaller wire sizes. See link below for instruction sheet.

Also, note that step 2 for installation instructions recommends that you do not twist the wire strands before inserting. Once you strip the wire, keep the strands as straight as possible so they all insert properly. Pretwisting can cause some strands to be curved enough that the strands will not get under the wire trap and then provide no electrical value.

Thanks


http://www.idealind.com/media/pdfs/products/instructions/ND_7868-8_50-21_Instructions.pdf
 

churchhaze

Well-Known Member
The problem with stranded is that thin strands of wire do not have enough compressive strength to push the connector spring up without buckling. This is why some people recommend to twist first despite the instructions saying not to. Tinning makes it easier and solid core will stay in the best. Thin gauge, solid core will stay in the best.
 
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