CXB3590 1500W

bicit said:

You feed all that to your worms 0_o. I just lost a huge batch of worms from over feeding....

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Haha yep they get all that but over time not all at once. I lost a few batches of worms early on also due to over-concentration of the castings. Now
I harvest more often and replace what I harvest with spent soil and brown leaves.

@Nenea Iancu

vintagedvd said:

I also want to know that please

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My canopy is kind of wild because every run has 12 different varieties so I adjust the heatsinks to try and wrap around the canopy. That way the light gets to the colas from multiple angles and I try to minimize lateral loss of light. So I tend to keep the heatsinks in the center higher above the canopy (8-10") and the ones on the side closer (4-8"). I have also been adding some short DIY reflectors and lenses onto the COBs that are around the edges to further reduce lateral loss of light.

The distance to canopy for COBs run at 50W would be further and much more important to use lenses/reflectors/reflective walls.

SupraSPL said:

Haha yep they get all that but over time not all at once. I lost a few batches of worms early on also due to over-concentration of the castings. Now
I harvest more often and replace what I harvest with spent soil and brown leaves.

@Nenea Iancu

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Do you have any pictures of your worm bin by chance? I've been debating getting the worm inn mega from build a soil, seems like a nice system. I haven't had much luck with plastic tubs.

ttystikk said:

That's fascinating stuff! Whoda thunk I'd learn that in an LED thread?

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....fascinating DIY LED GROW thread..... not only talk about lamps led...



Saludos

I use 10 gallon totes with mesh on top. The idea is for shallow, easy stacking no-drain bins that get a lot of air. I move them around depending on the season, living room, basement, shed etc. Many wood lice/pill bugs live in the bins they love to chew on composting leaves, canna sticks/stems and avocado shells etc. Pill bugs are edible and delicious when cooked I hear, although I have not tried it!


The worms seem to like inhabit the bottoms of the bins so most of their castings accumulate on the bottom, easy to harvest. This lump is from the bottom of a decently mature bin. Neutral smelling, damp but not soaked, soft to the touch and has a higher PPM level than my most fertile soil mix. Brews very good microbial teas. Black gold can't get enough of this stuff LOL


I also have some composting totes and buckets that ended up becoming worm bins. Most if not all of the 5 gal buckets that are running through the grow cycle have worms living in them also. Every spring I mix in some of the native composting worms I find in leaf piles and often those leaves are covered in castings and come with leaf mold, native insects and microbes. Great earthy forest soil smell and good for aeration.

Hi supra. Cool to see that you have taken the next step to the cxb3590. But why don't I see any reflectors on your new build? I could have missed some posts, began reading but 100+ pages is a lot in a few weeks...

I am using diy reflectors in the veg room because the distance to canopy is greater ~10-12" and it made a noticeable improvement. I have a few diy reflectors and lenses in the flowering tents around the edges of the canopy but still experimenting with it and no clear idea the best approach for 23W COBs with such a short distance to canopy. Definitely on my to-do list.

Bonjour
@SupraSPL what did you use to make your diy reflector?
When you run cob at very low amp, you need more of them! So it is ok to inclined the one who are lower on the sides, just a bit ?
Have a great day ★

SupraSPL said:

Time for me to retire the reds, deep reds, blues and CXA3070s. The first tent has been mostly converted to CXB and averaging 55% efficiency. The first run turned out 1.35gpw in ~60 days, best numbers so far for me but should go higher when the CD bins go in @ 64%.

Kept the canopy below 80F and was happy with the flavor/frosting of every variety. A few of them took a few extra days to finish than they normally do but not a big issue I just put them to the side and moved the new batch in.

I dimmed during the first and last week, not to save power really but to smooth transition from 350 PPFD veg to 800 PPFD flower and to try and improve trichs at the end.

Reserva Privada - Kandy Kush
View attachment 3464330

G13 Labs - Sour Jack
View attachment 3464331 View attachment 3464338

Mango (unknown)
View attachment 3464589 View attachment 3464336

Beanho - Durban / Kodiak Gold x God Bud
View attachment 3464333 View attachment 3464339 View attachment 3464337

Cali Connection - Alien OG
View attachment 3464334

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Dude you are a led god. I love razing your posts.
Thanks,
green217

Awesome setup!! Can't wait to see the nugs from this!

So awesome! Read, watch and learn!

Wow!
I'm having trouble keeping up with the new acronyms, and what do they mean by "drivers?" Is a driver new name for a transformer?

But yeah, great stuff being shared. I'm definitely going COB LED. I just need to learn how I want to set it up. It seems a tad more complicated than running a 600w HPS.

iriesmiley said:

Wow!
I'm having trouble keeping up with the new acronyms, and what do they mean by "drivers?" Is a driver new name for a transformer?

But yeah, great stuff being shared. I'm definitely going COB LED. I just need to learn how I want to set it up. It seems a tad more complicated than running a 600w HPS.

Click to expand...

Driver is a switching PSU used to power LEDs.

alesh said:

Driver is a switching PSU used to power LEDs.

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Thanks for the info alesh. My buddy who is an electronics tech, for a marine seismographic oil exploration company, said pretty much the same thing.

littlejacob said:

Bonjour
1.35gpw in soil it is a very good score, I am sure that you get more than the breeder prevision!
That is what I told REALSTYLE, now high yield are more around 1.5/2gpw (2 for hydro) with 2 time 1000w hpsDE efficiency you could have 2 times the yield, no!?
Bravo, again
Have a great day ★

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Is there a manual on how to make or how you could dim, contour blue then red, did you throw a switch on there does it cover the whole spectrum like a HPS?
Any advice helpful, trying to get off way to many meds and sativa helps but more $$ than medication from pharmacy!

SupraSPL said:

Here are some units you could scale up to fit your space. To some extent, you can adjust the coverage by adjusting the distance to canopy.

@64%
(8 ) CXB3590 3500K CD @ 700mA (23W ea) $380
(1) HLG-185H-C700 $65
184 dissipation W ->66W heat ->
passive cooled heatsink 7920cm² -> 4.23"X44" $68 (could split these into 2 or 4 units)
or
active cooled heatsink 2640cm² -> 3.5"X36" heatsink (for spread) $45 + 80mm fan + psu $10
active cooled heatsink 2640cm² -> 1.8"X44" heatsink $34 + 80mm fan + psu $10
(8 ) lenses $32
117.8 PAR W covering 6ft² = 879 PPFD
117.8 PAR w covering 7ft² = 754 PPFD
$545 = $4.63/PAR W passive cooled (great option if your area is high electrical cost, Hawaii, NYC, SoCal etc or if your grow is already heat limited and you want to increase yield without running more AC, ducting and fans)
$532 = $4.52/PAR W active cooled 3.5"
$521 = $4.43/PAR W active cooled 1.8"


So in summary, the higher the efficiency goes, the more appealing passive cooling is. Less wires, less moving parts, less points of failure for about the same cost.

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To use this option for 64% efficiency for a 4x4x6 tent or 16 sq ft coverage, would I want to use 2 or 3 of these?

If you used 2 of them in a 4X4 = 660 PPFD
If you used 3 of them in a 4X4 = 875 PPFD

They would both work well, 660 would be more electrically efficient, 875 would be more space efficient and could handle taller ladies. If you did go with 875 you could experiment with dimming down during the first and last weeks which might benefit the plants and increase electrical efficiency.

Hey Supra, I'm using one of your suggested builds and have a question.

@ 56.3%
(4) CXB3590 3500K CD 36V @ 1.4A (49W ea) $190
(1) HLG-185H-C1400 $65
196 dissipation W -> 85.7W heat ->
passive cooled heatsink 10284cm² -> 5.88" X 38" heatsink $72 (could split in 2 to improve uniformity/spread)
or
active cooled heatsink 3428cm² min -> 3.5"X36" heatsink (for spread) $45 +80mm fan +psu $10
(4) lenses $16
110.3 PAR W covering 6ft² = 824 PPFD
$311 = $3.07/PAR W passive cooled (great value point IMO, very efficient use of driver)
$326 = 2.96/PAR W active cooled

I have bought 2 heatsinks 5.88" x 19" so I can put 2 cobs on each one. My question is regarding the spacing of the cobs on each heat sink.



I noticed you installed the cobs closer to the corners on one more than on the other. Does this help,hurt, or make any difference at all in temp. control. What would you recommend the distance be on my set up from cob to cob and the edge of the heat sink?

SupraSPL said:

Time for me to retire the reds, deep reds, blues and CXA3070s. The first tent has been mostly converted to CXB and averaging 55% efficiency. The first run turned out 1.35gpw in ~60 days, best numbers so far for me but should go higher when the CD bins go in @ 64%.

Kept the canopy below 80F and was happy with the flavor/frosting of every variety. A few of them took a few extra days to finish than they normally do but not a big issue I just put them to the side and moved the new batch in.

I dimmed during the first and last week, not to save power really but to smooth transition from 350 PPFD veg to 800 PPFD flower and to try and improve trichs at the end.

Reserva Privada - Kandy Kush
View attachment 3464330

G13 Labs - Sour Jack
View attachment 3464331 View attachment 3464338

Mango (unknown)
View attachment 3464589 View attachment 3464336

Beanho - Durban / Kodiak Gold x God Bud
View attachment 3464333 View attachment 3464339 View attachment 3464337

Cali Connection - Alien OG
View attachment 3464334

Click to expand...

That Alien looks great!

Iceveign said:

Hey Supra, I'm using one of your suggested builds and have a question.
@ 56.3%
(4) CXB3590 3500K CD 36V @ 1.4A (49W ea) $190
(1) HLG-185H-C1400 $65
196 dissipation W -> 85.7W heat ->
passive cooled heatsink 10284cm² -> 5.88" X 38" heatsink $72 (could split in 2 to improve uniformity/spread)
or
active cooled heatsink 3428cm² min -> 3.5"X36" heatsink (for spread) $45 +80mm fan +psu $10
(4) lenses $16
110.3 PAR W covering 6ft² = 824 PPFD
$311 = $3.07/PAR W passive cooled (great value point IMO, very efficient use of driver)
$326 = 2.96/PAR W active cooled

I have bought 2 heatsinks 5.88" x 19" so I can put 2 cobs on each one. My question is regarding the spacing of the cobs on each heat sink.

View attachment 3484714 View attachment 3484715

I noticed you installed the cobs closer to the corners on one more than on the other. Does this help,hurt, or make any difference at all in temp. control. What would you recommend the distance be on my set up from cob to cob and the edge of the heat sink?

Click to expand...

It's a balance between optimizing for light distribution and temperature distribution. Some (SDS) would argue that optimal temperature distribution at the expense of suboptimal light distribution is better while others (me and Supra) optimize more for light distribution at the expense of suboptimal temperature distribution.

I see, so I suppose I should focus more on the temp. distribution since I'm in a small area (2x6). I just wasn't sure how dramatic the temp. fluctuation might be between a few inches here or there on a passively run set up.