DIY with Quantum Boards

taita

Member
taita, you seem to have some ideas in your head about heatsinks that aren't reality-based. Layering another heatsink on top of the first isn't going to help at all. The big factors are:

1) the heatsink's contact with the surface making heat (the more direct contact, the better the transfer of heat),
2) the heatsink's ability to move heat (metallurgy, shape, fins or pins, mass, etc.)
3) airflow across the fins or pins.

Strapping another sink onto the first one cripples the first sink's ability to dump heat to the air. Plus you really have to think about how much heat is going to move thru the first sink and into the second one. The answer is: not very much.

If you're in a hot environment, I'd say the first thing to look at is powering your LED devices very conservatively. It's gonna cost more to get started, but more devices running at lower amperages is probably the most effective overall strategy. That and lots of air movement.

hello mello
thanks for your input. im actually aware of all the things you mentioned so im going to try and rephrase my query with hopefully more clarity.
I was trying to ascertain that if all variables being the same, airflow ambient temp thermal resistance etc;
if i use a qb running at 75 watt, with the heat sink on robins website and another with the same material/anodised et al except double the thickness and/or width, will the thicker sink cause the lights to run cooler?

@robincnn did you get a chance to do the horizontal vs vertical orientation test?
 

LarsVegasNirvana

Well-Known Member
Nice retrofit I'm putting one on my old g8led I had the same problem with a row of leds being covered by the case I decided I'm going to mount it outside the case an take the glass out to put a heatsink in the middle
It's just half of each LED, and they're "lifted up" off the metal case by the thickness of the plexiglass, so there is plenty of opportunity for that light to go 45 degrees down and towards the center of the fixture to hit my plants. Some goes the other direction at 45 degrees and bounces up into the case.

I'm not buying this "no IR" bullshit. Anything that has a temperature emits IR. Perhaps it's not generated by a diode, but there is a fuckton of IR coming off of this thing. Point an IR thermometer at the bright side, and see what happens. Or put your hand 3" from it. You're not feeling hot air convection, you're feeling IR radiation.
 

LarsVegasNirvana

Well-Known Member
It's pretty staggering to think that two of these things could replace my 400w induction. (although I'd upgrade to 4 eventually so I'm not driving them so hard)
 

LarsVegasNirvana

Well-Known Member

...lol... ferduino catch the idea...:hump:;)


...too curious kit...:fire:


..some musiquita... antes que no ...prefiero pensar que si se puede... ou yeahh...


:peace:

Saludos

My aeroponics rig uses an esp8266 to log all the data to thingspeak. I love it! I Don't really use it for any remote control stuff, but I was thinking of setting up the timings and configuration on an html file at github, and then have the aeroponics rig pull the data down from the cloud itself. :) That way I don't have to touch it ever again.
 

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
hello mello
thanks for your input. im actually aware of all the things you mentioned so im going to try and rephrase my query with hopefully more clarity.
I was trying to ascertain that if all variables being the same, airflow ambient temp thermal resistance etc;
if i use a qb running at 75 watt, with the heat sink on robins website and another with the same material/anodised et al except double the thickness and/or width, will the thicker sink cause the lights to run cooler?

@robincnn did you get a chance to do the horizontal vs vertical orientation test?

I don't think that would account for much difference, but I can tell you that running a fan horizontally across the heat sink will make a huge (by comparison) efficiency improvement
 

ChaosHunter

Well-Known Member
Sinks came in and I have my QB setup built. First thoughts ? Lighter, silent, a suns worth more light, a lot less power "250w vs 100w". a lot less heat, don't have to wear sun glasses to look or maintain. This is coming from a Mars 600 in a 2x2.5 x 6' grow tent

Thank you to Robin from Northern Grow lights ! Fast and painless shipping through the proses and great to work with.

I took pics through the build but I'm not sure hot to upload without using Photobucket ?
 

dandyrandy

Well-Known Member
I'm thinking of using .5 mm silicone pads for thermal transfer to the heatsink. Looking at 100w per module. Available in 400 mm.
 

ChaosHunter

Well-Known Member
My light is up and running, 100w passive in a 2x2, intake is set on low with no other fans running and I'm at 75 at the top of the canopy and the heat sinks are reading 80. The boards have a thick aluminum backing already and fit completely flat to the heat sinks. I just haven't seen the need for anything more in the hour or so they have been running
 

pop22

Well-Known Member
I'm starting with a single bare board in my breeding tent, will ad a second soon. I want to test them through a cycle or 2 bare just to see how well the will produce.

I'm taking a different approach to lighting in that my goal is to cap my total usage to 1200-1400 watts total for my three tents. Yes efficiency plays a part, to a point. But I'm not going to spend three times as much on hardware to get 60% efficiency, I'll settle for 40-45.
I'm willing to run less than the "max ppfd ". I've already seen what a huge increase a lot less than that can produce, after replacing shitty burples with a DIY cob light. I won't have the biggest grow on the forum, but I'll have damn fine grows just the same!




From my understanding is if your using these in a reflective grow space you don't need the optics. I'm going to run mine without first. I've had my boards and driver for awhile. My heat sinks will be here tomorrow and I may do a build thread.
 
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