DWC Grow Bible

onthedl0008

Well-Known Member
PH is the biggest problem i see people battling and asking questions about while growing DWC tho. Now if anyone has any specific questions regarding growing in general like lighting ans such im sure we can help them there too. Peace
 

tip top toker

Well-Known Member
Here's my erxperience. PH and EC do nto seem half as important as people amke out, i get great buds and i do little to bother maintaining either, i see no ill results as an effect, and with regard to the statement "don't even bother growing" well i do bother growing, don't bother getting worked up over the readings, and get many ounces, seems worth it to me :)

My input for DWC, is that feeder tubes are pointless and just complicate the matter, yet people go around stating as fact that you MUST have feeder tubes for young plants.. BS
 

onthedl0008

Well-Known Member
After 4 days why don't you tell us how keep your reservoir so stable????
gl
By feeding 1-300 ppm upon set-up of a new res and simply PH'ing down once a day until the res begins establishing its own PH balance which usually does occur in the first week if u maintain ur PH properly.
But Id seriously recommend if u are keeping moms in DWC or even flowering plants in to take a few cups of water out of an established res and add it to ur newly set-up res and this will help ur new res establish its own ph balance even faster. Takeing into consideration that ur already established res is healthy.
 

onthedl0008

Well-Known Member
Here's my erxperience. PH and EC do nto seem half as important as people amke out, i get great buds and i do little to bother maintaining either, i see no ill results as an effect, and with regard to the statement "don't even bother growing" well i do bother growing, don't bother getting worked up over the readings, and get many ounces, seems worth it to me :)

My input for DWC, is that feeder tubes are pointless and just complicate the matter, yet people go around stating as fact that you MUST have feeder tubes for young plants.. BS

Agreed with ur last point about feeder tubes being pointless. Everyone growing DWC knows that as long as u keep ur hydroton damp this will manipulate ur roots to grow down and find the water and food supply.
Disagree with the fact that u dont think its necessary to grow with a PPM tester. Im not knocking this cause i grew without one long enuff. But until i got my PH/PPM tester and was able to completely control every aspect of my res this is when things started to happen and i was able to grow my bud to its fullest potential. So i have to stick with my original statement when i compare my grows from growing without my testers to with my testers i wouldnt have bothered growing after seeing the results of a fine tuned DWC grow system as opposed not growing in one. Like i said im not knocking ur grow style im just saying u can completely fine tune ur DWC set-up n make ur buds drip resin on the flower pad floor if u really wanted to. Hope this helps.
 

onthedl0008

Well-Known Member
I should have probably called this thread the DWC grow Discussion thread haha. Grow bible. There are really only a few simple rules to be followed growing DWC. A bucket, a net pot, some hydroton an air pump and stone, some food. some PH down, keeping ur PH proper, Knowing ur strain and how it likes to eat its really that simple. I kinda did want to get into ideas and techniques growers use growing this style.
 

onthedl0008

Well-Known Member
5.8 is a sweet spot i have found that works best in my DWC system. PH naturally swings all on its own in these systems so maybe it all works hand in hand together. There are plenty of people that will argue otherwise. 3 years ago 6.2 PH was said to be the hydro sweet spot. And to top it all off now i see Soil growers Ph'ing to 5.8 and haveing incredible grows so i guess there really is no arguement to be made to each his own. But i can say i did not find my sweetspot by reading an outdated chart i found it with hands on in the field experience and can assure u at 5.8 ur plants will drip resin on the floor if feed properly. Hope this helps. Like i said this is for DWC just shareing some knowledge.
 

onthedl0008

Well-Known Member
I do see ur point. And can say i dont disagree with ur chart. Im no scientist never claimed to be. I see my Ph swing all on its own especially during different stages of life. All im getting at is with the PH swings that already occur in this system 5.8 is the sweet spot to shoot for. With this being said in a 5 gallon container an aggressive flowering plant can and will drink up to 3 gallons of water/day lowering ur PH level to 5.5 all on its own naturally and during topping back off it will naturally raise back up to 6.2 at times depending how much is replaced. An hour later it could be balanced back at 5.8 all on its own and does in a healthy system. Like i said maybe these PH swings all work hand in hand together in getting the plants exactly what they need? Do u grow DWC or are u just showing charts?
 

oJUICEBOXo

Active Member
Ok yeah we are on the same page now and yes I grow DWC check my sig...Another good tip is that you can never have enough air pumps and stones. You will get monster root balls like these......
IMAG0207.jpg
 

Flo Grow

Well-Known Member
As you can see by the lockout chart you should let your PH swing from 5.5 to 6.1 to let the plants get all the nutrients it needs for hydro. Soil is good at 6.5. If you keep it at 5.8 you will get deficiencies...the light chart will help with lighting distances.
View attachment 1154815View attachment 1154814
Actually, if you look at the chart correctly, you will see that the "sweet spot" for soil and hydro is OUTLINED IN BLACK BOLD BORDERS.

Soil Sweet Spot = ph 6.5

Hydro Sweet Spot = ph 5.8

It's at those EXACT numbers that you hit THE MOST diverse and complete nutritent uptake to be had with a SINGLE ph number.

And the lighting chart is some-what old but still true.
Made by an old member of OverGrow.
 

onthedl0008

Well-Known Member
Cool man will do. U have some good points im glad u brought them up they needed to be clearified for sure. And thanks for the lighting charts.
 

oJUICEBOXo

Active Member
Yeah Flo you're right if you HAD to keep the PH at 1 number it would be best at 5.8, but my point was that you should let it swing to absorb more nutrients. Some people freak out if their PH differs by .1 lol.
 

onthedl0008

Well-Known Member
Actually, if you look at the chart correctly, you will see that the "sweet spot" for soil and hydro is OUTLINED IN BLACK BOLD BORDERS.

Soil Sweet Spot = ph 6.5

Hydro Sweet Spot = ph 5.8

It's at those EXACT numbers that you hit THE MOST diverse and complete nutritent uptake to be had with a SINGLE ph number.

And the lighting chart is some-what old but still true.
Made by an old member of OverGrow.
LOL thanks FLO for clearifying the nutrient chart. I never even looked at it. I can say tho now that u deciphered it. It gives me great confidence that my in the field grow knowledge matches the scientifical chart. HAHAH maybe i shoulda peepd the chart in the first place. LMAO
 

onthedl0008

Well-Known Member
Lighting is a good thing to be discussed. Now that we have all the charts we need... Here's how i figured out how to apply them to my grow space on my road to fine tuneing my flower spot. Total recommended watts/sq.ft. Is 50 PLEASE READ THE FOLLOWING Ok heres where im at.... I know that the reccomended watts/sq.ft. is 50 and the way U figure this is to take the total amount of grow space In a grow area (LXW) and times that # by 50 to achieve the size of Lamp U need. FOR EXAMPLE: My grow space is (2X4=8sq.ftX50=400 watts is ideal)? WHERE IM stuck @ is In my experience more light is better i guess and in my particular grow space I am maxed out @ 66.7777 watts/sq.ft.... IF Possible Would it not be better to try and achieve 50 watts/CUBIC FT.? What formula could I use to attain total watts/cubic ft.? PLEASE if there are any super stoner math dudes here tell me if this looks right... (LXWXD IN FT.=TOTAL CUBIC.FT CONTAINED IN A GROW AREA) WOULD YOU SIMPLY THEN JUST TAKE ur # of total cu.ft and times that x50 to attain 50 watts/cubic ft.? For example: My area is (2x4X4=32x50=1600 total watts/cubic ft.)
 

Flo Grow

Well-Known Member
Not even so much of HAVING to, but SHOULD, if you can maintain the stabiliy.
My coolers are more stable than a new pair of tits ! lol
Some ppl have the money for high tech equip that will monitor and maintain ph at whatever you set it at.
Others like us, have to tweak ours in order to find it.
And still others are fortunate to have it from the get-go.
 

redi jedi

Well-Known Member
Lighting is a good thing to be discussed. Now that we have all the charts we need... Here's how i figured out how to apply them to my grow space on my road to fine tuneing my flower spot. Total recommended watts/sq.ft. Is 50 PLEASE READ THE FOLLOWING Ok heres where im at.... I know that the reccomended watts/sq.ft. is 50 and the way U figure this is to take the total amount of grow space In a grow area (LXW) and times that # by 50 to achieve the size of Lamp U need. FOR EXAMPLE: My grow space is (2X4=8sq.ftX50=400 watts is ideal)? WHERE IM stuck @ is In my experience more light is better i guess and in my particular grow space I am maxed out @ 66.7777 watts/sq.ft.... IF Possible Would it not be better to try and achieve 50 watts/CUBIC FT.? What formula could I use to attain total watts/cubic ft.? PLEASE if there are any super stoner math dudes here tell me if this looks right... (LXWXD IN FT.=TOTAL CUBIC.FT CONTAINED IN A GROW AREA) WOULD YOU SIMPLY THEN JUST TAKE ur # of total cu.ft and times that x50 to attain 50 watts/cubic ft.? For example: My area is (2x4X4=32x50=1600 total watts/cubic ft.)
Your math is correct..but 1600 watts in that little cab? Sounds more like an oven to me.

I've never calculated watts/sqft like that but it works. I just divide total watts by sq footage, my room for example 2000w divided by 63sqft = 32w/sqft
 
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