Dyna-Gro from Advance Nutrients

oh,please,don't cry sad troll. TOOT TOOT!!!!

I think a good grower can kill it with AN and Dyna...
I have done the math that gets thrown around in these threads... The AN vs Dyna math is always twisted number one way or the other. I;ll have to check the one out that you speak of.

I remember patlpp's math was clearly bias. His showed that AN was like 4 cents more per gallon...? If I remember right, he compared AN base nutes to Dyna AND Protekt... the Dyna + Protekt was not mentioned in the post until I started asking more questions.

Just taking a quick look at prices and doing some quick math... I'm not seeing how AN could be cheaper.

I also saw one of you saying you were getting AN for 14$ a gallon?/ where? I see a few places selling 1 L at that price... but no gallon.

HeartlandHank said:

I also saw one of you saying you were getting AN for 14$ a gallon?/ where? I see a few places selling 1 L at that price... but no gallon.

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No a liter.

Dude I'm not biased. Prior posts clearly show I observed and reported positive attributes from many nutes. see: See , I'm not a total AN troll


I said $14 liter if u buy by the gallon. I also praised dyna for finishing a crop quicker than others. I didn't starve the shit out of it and blame the nutes like in some tests done around here.

Ponder this: Why the need for so much silica? Could it be the excessive amounts of ammoniacal nitrogen requiring a supplemental means to harden a plant? Urea and Ammonical N is for lucious green for the eye, Nitrate N gives a hardier plant by itself. Both companies use a blend but Dyna goes way overboard. Dyna plants look just as the mixture would produce: Leggy,green,fair density . Good eye candy but nothing compared to the dense bud, compact growth of a high Nitrate lower P formula that AN provides.
My take is that Dyna goes with their ratio for PH stability. However, try running ammoniacal N in lower temps, you will be greeted with ammonia toxicity issues.

If I seemed biased I didn't mean to. I try to say it like it is......

HeartlandHank said:

I think a good grower can kill it with AN and Dyna...
I have done the math that gets thrown around in these threads... The AN vs Dyna math is always twisted number one way or the other. I;ll have to check the one out that you speak of.

I remember patlpp's math was clearly bias. His showed that AN was like 4 cents more per gallon...? If I remember right, he compared AN base nutes to Dyna AND Protekt... the Dyna + Protekt was not mentioned in the post until I started asking more questions.

Just taking a quick look at prices and doing some quick math... I'm not seeing how AN could be cheaper.

I also saw one of you saying you were getting AN for 14$ a gallon?/ where? I see a few places selling 1 L at that price... but no gallon.

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EXACTLY!!! if you know what you are doing you can kill it with either. me and that guy tree tested it out one day with Dyna Grow, Bloom, Sensi line and Connoisseur line. basically the AN lineups were about 20% more concentrated than Dyna. Sensi was about 15% more expensive. Connoisseur was pricey though.

and everyone is always bitching that they have all the "snake" oils and make you buy all these extra things. just cause the company sells it doesn't mean you need to buy it ALL. additives are exactly that...strain and environment dependent. in every different room with every different grower you'll find that your plants need certain things more than others. you can't have a universally perfect marijuana plant food. that's what additives are for. to fill in the gaps that your base nutes just don't cover. plenty of people just running AN base nutes and getting fantastic rESULTS.

homebrewer's argument was that you have to buy 2 bottles (a&b) of AN. who cares? Sensi was still only 15% more expensive and you are getting 2 gallons (1 of A and 1 of B) as opposed to 1 gallon of Dyna. in reality i would much rather have a 2 or even 3 part system that allows me to tweak my plants food as i see fit. when i use AN sometimes i find myself needing a little N boost and it's nice being able to add just a little extra Part A in order to get it.

my issue was micro def. and when i would try and correct it N would be too high. Simplified I would be maxed out on N but still needed more micros and/or pottasium. When I would run the numbers the N ppm would always limit me to how much base I could use. I have ran part B 2/1 ratio to run up my mag & p& k it would help alot which is where I started seeing that supplements were important to get my ratios within range while not racking up more N. Maybe my strains were Low nitrogen eaters and it was throwing everything off. in any case I have played around every which way on several runs but could never fig out the right combination to make my plants completly happy. I have the time and experience with AN nutes to complain if I want to. Just because you run smoothly doesnt mean my setup will run smoothly. same goes for dyna, I may have issues or may have the best harvest My first run with them.

I ran soil when I first started and did well with the 3 part and well water. Went to Dwc and started with Well water, went to city water and then RO. I went 2 part conniseur with Ro water and about 5 supplements. I tried to follow feeding chart at all different strengths with no joy. I have never used their 1-1 ratio with any base and not had major issues. I tried many times at different strengths. So I then tried to follow mel franks nutrient profiles but could never come close without having a high in N ppm so I experimented with more part b cal/mag andmagpro for the best results.

Enough of the back and fort. All nutes will get the job done I will use AN in the future along with other lines.

Back to the important shit. I been thinking about sea of green and been pondering on few thoughts involving productivity. Is it more full proof and productive to saturate your light with plants using a larger area to ensure the light is hitting nothing but plants? Or to stick with a smaller area like 80w/sq.ft and concetrate more light on fewer plants? Seems obvious but is it.
Say you have a 1000w, is 4x4 sufficient or doea 4x8 area guarentee you will use all the light and maximize yield with root to flower sog method?

Is there a ebb&flow subforum? I have been looking for some info on it but havent been able to find much info on it?

I lost a batch of clones so I will be delayed a few weeks. I have a few dirt bitches flowering under a 1000w until I get some clones rooted. I have some plants in dirt vegging that will give me up to 200 clones before sexing and I will be clonning half in rockwool and half in a bubbler. After clones are taking I will be flowering them as well under another 1000w. I will be attempting flood and drain sog style and dwc scrog style in 2 different flowering rooms. Slow going but I will get there soon.

I'm finishing up my first grow with Dyna Gro and I'm loving it. Never followed their feeding chart since it didn't suit my plants needs.

patlpp said:

No a liter.

I said $14 liter if u buy by the gallon.

Ponder this: Why the need for so much silica?

Leggy,green,fair density . Good eye candy but nothing compared to the dense bud, compact growth of a high Nitrate lower P formula that AN provides.

My take is that Dyna goes with their ratio for PH stability. However, try running ammoniacal N in lower temps, you will be greeted with ammonia toxicity issues.

If I seemed biased I didn't mean to. I try to say it like it is......

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Ohhh k.. my bad. I should have read closer before I spoke on that.... $14 per liter when by the gallon....

I did not use the silica with my DG grow, the crop did very well.

Man... I don't know... My Green Crack plant produced dense buds with Canna, H&G and Dyna... My NLights produced not so dense buds with Canna, H&G and Dyna...
So, I would say that ime, these traits you speak about are genetic. That's just my experience though... I have not tried AN.

IMO, Assuming you are giving your plants adequate treatment, genetics are everything.

I understand, I am not carrying a Dyna flag either. My recent complaint with Dyna is the sludge that forms in the bottom of the bottle...

Edit: My bad, these nutrient bottles have no date visible and could be past shelf life.

I need a ppm meter to check my solution now as I cannot trust a bottle full of sludge..
I just feel that with your cost comparison there was some bias...


I am curious... what does Ammonia toxicity look like?

chuck estevez said:

nothing like tooten your own horn. TOOT TOOT.
nobody loves you like you,lmfao

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Aint that the fucking truth......

chuck estevez said:

i find it funny that you think you know what i spend my time on. don't hurt yourself patting yourself on the back there big guy.


wow, just figured out, finshaggy is scoobydooby doo, makes total sense.

and how did you know i was a member of the national marlon brando look alike assoc?

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Cant about his Phillip Christian account either.

I too have used AN at full strength, half, quarter strength with additives etc.. trying to believe the hype and make it work. It did to some extent, but the hassle and for the growth is too much work. I always come back to DG no matter what nutrient hype I try or want to believe. Just read their label, no magic no miracles just quality nutrients.n No matter how cheap they are... price is not always meant to be about the matter of quality.

If you have sludge in the bottle then its because you are dipping your measuring device into different additives and the chemical reaction is happening that wouldn't other wise... just common sense.

HeartlandHank said:

Ohhh k.. my bad. I should have read closer before I spoke on that.... $14 per liter when by the gallon....

I did not use the silica with my DG grow, the crop did very well.

Man... I don't know... My Green Crack plant produced dense buds with Canna, H&G and Dyna... My NLights produced not so dense buds with Canna, H&G and Dyna...
So, I would say that ime, these traits you speak about are genetic. That's just my experience though... I have not tried AN.

IMO, Assuming you are giving your plants adequate treatment, genetics are everything.

I understand, I am not carrying a Dyna flag either. My recent complaint with Dyna is the sludge that forms in the bottom of the bottle... I need a ppm meter to check my solution now as I cannot trust a bottle full of sludge..
I just feel that with your cost comparison there was some bias...


I am curious... what does Ammonia toxicity look like?

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http://www.greenhouse.cornell.edu/crops/factsheets/nitrogen_form.pdf
This came up when I googled "Ammonium toxicity in plants. but I remember HB sending me the same document.

patlpp said:

http://www.greenhouse.cornell.edu/crops/factsheets/nitrogen_form.pdf
This came up when I googled "Ammonium toxicity in plants. but I remember HB sending me the same document.

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From the article:

Certain conditions such as low temperatures (less than 60°F average daily temperature), water-saturated or low oxygen growing media, and low medium pH will suppress the function of nitrifying bacteria and cause ammonium to build up to toxic levels in the growing medium. Symptoms of ammonium toxicity include upward or downward curling of lower leaves depending on plant species; and yellowing between the veins of older leaves which can progress to cell death (Figure 3).

To avoid ammonium toxicity it is recommended to use fertilizer with 40 percent or less ammoniacal nitrogen when growing conditions are cool and wet. When cold gray weather occurs a common strategy used by growers is to alternate to a 15-0-15 “Dark Weather Forumla.” This eliminates the extra ammonium input temporarily, but then allows growers to return to their normal formula when growing conditions improve.
Impact of

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Indoor growing conditions should never be cool and wet and DG supplies around 33% ammoniacal in their formulas so an ammonium toxicity should never be an issue. In regards to the roughly 1/3rd 2/3rds split of ammoniacal and nitrate, that's probably for pH stability. Companies that use a lot of nitrate like GH tend to have a constantly rising pH in hydro. In dirt, pH issues are simply operator error.

I read 15% mix is optimum and you are in trouble if you don't have adequate amounts of bacteria for oxidation. I give my coco Botanicare original compost solution periodically to ensure I have these bacteria. I still to this day can not find how inert hydro obtains these bacteria unless it is incidental with water feedings or from another nutrient. I can say this: With AN, @ 15%. I have no green issues at all at harvest.

HeartlandHank said:

IMO, Assuming you are giving your plants adequate treatment, genetics are everything.

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Yep, cant make a silk purse out of a sows ear...

HeartlandHank said:

I understand, I am not carrying a Dyna flag either. My recent complaint with Dyna is the sludge that forms in the bottom of the bottle... I need a ppm meter to check my solution now as I cannot trust a bottle full of sludge..

Click to expand...

Just another gardening habit we should all have. You gotta shake those bottles of nutes once a week no matter if you are using them at the time or not. We also need to be mindful when buying nutes, many expire just like a gallon of milk. Unlike a gallon of milk which is ink stamped. Nutes are often labeled with stickers that are easily removed by an overstocked store keeper. Cant find a dated sticker, steer clear to be on the safe side....

BigBuddahCheese said:

If you have sludge in the bottle then its because you are dipping your measuring device into different additives and the chemical reaction is happening that wouldn't other wise... just common sense.

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I'm not positive that I am understanding you correctly, but I have not been dipping anything into my nutrient bottles. The opening of the bottle is not large enough to fit a measuring device into it. Even if it would, pouring the nutrients into a measuring cup is the way to go... just common sense.

I might have misunderstood what you meant.

Alexander Supertramp said:

Just another gardening habit we should all have. You gotta shake those bottles of nutes once a week no matter if you are using them at the time or not. We also need to be mindful when buying nutes, many expire just like a gallon of milk. Unlike a gallon of milk which is ink stamped. Nutes are often labeled with stickers that are easily removed by an overstocked store keeper. Cant find a dated sticker, steer clear to be on the safe side....

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My sludge bottles have been all purchased from the same store. They ordered a fresh bottle of Foliage Pro 9-3-6 for me that has not sludged.
Who knows how old the GROW and Bloom bottles that I purchased were.
I should have considered that before assigning the blame of that problem to DG. My garden store guy is good shit... I might see if he will let me return them opened..

Sludge aside... I've done well. 1 month ago in this thread I was trying to guess the yield of the upcoming harvest from my first dyna grow. I have the real number now... 16.1 oz per 600 hps. That was 4 plants in 3 gallon pots of coco. I was pretty happy with that. I suspect that with 5 gallon pots and an extra week of veg might yield more.

My previous best yield was 13oz per 600hps. I hit just over 16oz per 600hps...
That was an 18% improvement on my previous best yield. This was my first grow with DG. So, I would say Dyna is an extremely easy to use fertilizer. The low price is cool too.