Electricity safety help

I might want ta rethink my setup ?

Donnybrook said:

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I might want ta rethink my setup ?

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Lol!

The 3rd shielded conductor is completely unnecessary. So is the size. 14/2 is plenty for 2 600 watt 240v ballasts. Amps is amps regardless of voltage.

But in this scenario I would suggest the op hire someone to do this seeing he has very limited knowledge in electrical and is asking for serious injury.

sonson176 said:

Those CAP units are just expensive contractors in a box. They used to make them with an integrated timer but I believe they have been discontinued.

In your scenario, if you purchased that unit, you would run 240v to it, plug all your ballasts into it, and buy a 120v timer of your choice(most common hardware stores will have a few in stock). Plug the 120v timer into any nearby 120v receptacle, and from the timers controlled receptacles, run a cord to the lighting controllers trigger plug. All the timer does is switch on/off 120v to energize a magnetic coil in the CAP unit, that in turn switches the 240v on and off. Do yourself a favor though, go buy a decent DMM(digital multi meter) and test that outlet and make sure it's 240. As for extension cords, it'll be a lot cheaper probably to buy some 12/3 SO cable and the proper amperage and size/shape cord ends that you need. Over 100' in length get 10/3. Voltage drop depends on quite a few different factors but it's guaranteed to be a problem at that lengh. 12/3 means two current carrying conductors, and a ground. Cable/cords are labeled differently than Romex, mc, or any type of building wire. 12/3 Romex means 3 current carrying conductors, and ground is there as well but doesn't count.

Last but not least if you're unsure of anything your doing electrically, please stop and get some help. Screwing up plumbing, wrong size ducts, things not level, etc are mistakes you can fix later when you notice them, and some water in the floor or whatever can be mopped up. It's hard as hell to fix a burned down house bro.

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Thanks for your feedback with that much detail!

Im sure its 240V plug. we use 120v in most cases. Usually we have 240V plug on the hight side of the wall for window A/C, and use differnet type of plug. I have done it with another 240v plug change to the plug type that we usually see. I actually work for me. 20 amp plug with 1000watt total light use. Dont have problem with it, but timer gets warm sometimes. thats why I want to make it safe as I will run 3 600 watt.

What I want to do for my new setup is get the plug from the wall open, and disconnect the wire with plug. connect it with another wire and other side to the CAP unit. Do you think its gonna work? Its a rental place, so dont want to add any breakers.

About the extension cord, I can not find any info about 12/3 10/2 in local sources. I found there is two type of conductor. solid conductors & stranded conductors
soild one is like single wire
stranded one is like more thin wires together
Is that what you trying to tell me?

I also find some info I found
1,soild conductors 1.6mm-- hold 15A
2,soild conductors 2.0mm--hold 19A
3,stranded conductors 3.5mm-- hold 20A
4,stranded conductors 5.5mm-- hold 25A
5,stranded conductors 8mm-- hold 33A

this is what exactly the guy from electrical shop told me. The plug I have for 240V with 20amp
He told me I will not have any problem with 2.0mm wire.
but not sure sure the differences between soild/ stranded and 10/2 12/3
I have talk to the guy in electrical shop. He told me I will not have any problem use 2.0mm wire

Im pretty sure i will get a DMM when I doing it. Make sure I know everything. safety first!
Thanks for your sharing your experience really appreciated

To make life a lot easier, I'd say just get your lighting controller, take a picture of the existing 240 receptacle, and go down to the electrical shop and tell them what you need to connect. They'll most likely be able to cut some cable and make a cord for you that'll be plug and play with the right size wires and plugs, then all you'll have to do is hook your timer up. Or just call an electrician out, no permits will be required for what you're trying to do.

Certain things you can figure out as you go and usually make out alright, electricity is not one of those things.

clutch1024 said:

The 3rd shielded conductor is completely unnecessary. So is the size. 14/2 is plenty for 2 600 watt 240v ballasts. Amps is amps regardless of voltage.

But in this scenario I would suggest the op hire someone to do this seeing he has very limited knowledge in electrical and is asking for serious injury.

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Thanks for the feedback
Why do you think its unnecessary to have 3rd shielded conductor? because I only run 2 600watt? I might go 3 600watt for my next room with 10 x 5 tent
Yes I do not know much knowledge in electrical. I know this can blow the house and shit. I will not have anything connect unless I am 100% sure what I am doing.

The 3rd conductor on a 240v is usually only used in a critical gfci circuit. The plug on a 240v ballast is 3 prongs. 2 hot and neutral/ground.

you can draw around 4k watts from that source

just use a nice thick power lead cos resistance will add load but you`ve got a bit of headroom but I would only fire up 2 hids at a time max, maybe even stagger them by 15mins

As when they fire up they draw more, so I normally stagger them plus a lot of timers can only handle firing up 1 hps lamp at a time, unless you`ve brought something a bit more heavy duty

I have my 2 - 1000W magnetic ballasts hooked up to a single 120V on their own 25A breaker (along with 2 oscillating fans @ 80W max running constantly) and the wire doesnt even hardly get warm. I have my "light on" times staggered by 3 minutes so it isnt a full draw all at once when both lights come on. Never run 2 lights on one timer. Most are rated 120V 15A.

sonson176 said:

To make life a lot easier, I'd say just get your lighting controller, take a picture of the existing 240 receptacle, and go down to the electrical shop and tell them what you need to connect. They'll most likely be able to cut some cable and make a cord for you that'll be plug and play with the right size wires and plugs, then all you'll have to do is hook your timer up. Or just call an electrician out, no permits will be required for what you're trying to do.

Certain things you can figure out as you go and usually make out alright, electricity is not one of those things.

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Do you mean I have my controller connect with the plug that fit the replaceable that I already have?
This sounds good idea. I think I can handle that. Just need to make sure what size cable to use.

THE KONASSURE said:

you can draw around 4k watts from that source

just use a nice thick power lead cos resistance will add load but you`ve got a bit of headroom but I would only fire up 2 hids at a time max, maybe even stagger them by 15mins

As when they fire up they draw more, so I normally stagger them plus a lot of timers can only handle firing up 1 hps lamp at a time, unless you`ve brought something a bit more heavy duty

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For now I will only have 3 600s. My breaker only hold 20amp. But for 3 600s, it's safe right?

I think the control model I want have the delate start function, first light on, next one 10 second later or so.

HydroRed said:

I have my 2 - 1000W magnetic ballasts hooked up to a single 120V on their own 25A breaker (along with 2 oscillating fans @ 80W max running constantly) and the wire doesnt even hardly get warm. I have my "light on" times staggered by 3 minutes so it isnt a full draw all at once when both lights come on. Never run 2 lights on one timer. Most are rated 120V 15A.

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Thanks for the feedback.
I want my light on 240v. When I have my ballast connect on120v. I can feel the light is not bright as 240v.
My timer now run total 1000W on 240V, thats the one that gets warm. Thats why I want to buy a controller. Make everything nice and safe.
thanks for sharing your experienced.

clutch1024 said:

The 3rd conductor on a 240v is usually only used in a critical gfci circuit. The plug on a 240v ballast is 3 prongs. 2 hot and neutral/ground.

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After some research, I think know what you mean just by now...
Sorry for asking those dummy questions.

ligrow said:

Thanks for the feedback.
I want my light on 240v. When I have my ballast connect on120v. I can feel the light is not bright as 240v.
My timer now run total 1000W on 240V, thats the one that gets warm. Thats why I want to buy a controller. Make everything nice and safe.
thanks for sharing your experienced.


After some research, I think know what you mean just by now...
Sorry for asking those dummy questions.

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The cheaper timers normally get burnt out running 1 x 600w hps or 1 x 1000w hps, you get some "heavy duty" ones that can handle a 600w or 1000w all day maybe even 2 of them

The problem is the load they take to start up them mechanical timers don`t take it well but the heavy duty ones are better

Yeah 240v will be brighter if you ever get a 400v supply and a 400v`ish ballast there even better

THE KONASSURE said:

The cheaper timers normally get burnt out running 1 x 600w hps or 1 x 1000w hps, you get some "heavy duty" ones that can handle a 600w or 1000w all day maybe even 2 of them

The problem is the load they take to start up them mechanical timers don`t take it well but the heavy duty ones are better

Yeah 240v will be brighter if you ever get a 400v supply and a 400v`ish ballast there even better

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Regarding to sonson176 mentioned
I will have my controller 120v plug into timer. Controller itself it's actually operate 240v for my light. So timer only carry the power of the controller. I think I'm gonna fine.

I'm not sure what the heavy duty one is. Could you you some link if possible

Never seen 400v bulbs fire. Would like to see if I have any chance

ligrow said:

Regarding to sonson176 mentioned
I will have my controller 120v plug into timer. Controller itself it's actually operate 240v for my light. So timer only carry the power of the controller. I think I'm gonna fine.

I'm not sure what the heavy duty one is. Could you you some link if possible

Never seen 400v bulbs fire. Would like to see if I have any chance

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The 400v`s are more efficient as the hids run on 400v so there not having to step up the voltage but you need a 400v supply and most people don`t have that, but double ended 400v is the king of the hids

shame a 50v led beats it but costs more per W to buy/build, would be cool once they get the leds upto 200v`ish then the ac direct ones will give off less heat and you`ll be pretty much able to just wire them in to the mains, lol

Ok this is what my situation right now.
I have find the plug for the 220v/20 amp replaceable that already have. But they will not have controller with 120v power supply. If I want to get the controller. I have to pay maybe double of its price including shipping.

It will be 3 600s running in 240v 20amp replaceable straight from breaker.

Do you guys think it worth me to buy one of these controller?
Any idea how do I have 3 600s running with timer in single replaceable?

What to make sure everything safe
Really appreciate all you guys help

THE KONASSURE said:

The 400v`s are more efficient as the hids run on 400v so there not having to step up the voltage but you need a 400v supply and most people don`t have that, but double ended 400v is the king of the hids

shame a 50v led beats it but costs more per W to buy/build, would be cool once they get the leds upto 200v`ish then the ac direct ones will give off less heat and you`ll be pretty much able to just wire them in to the mains, lol

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400v its more like industrial use from where I live here . I can not imagine if I use 400v. dont even know how can I have power with 400v. shit man it could be consider commercial grow if get caught growing hydro. at least 5 years in prison not joking around here. I ma just stay low grow for myself and couple friends.

I dont have any experienced with LED either, Its really expensive and cost even more if I get one ship from state.
Would like to have a try if I can get one with good deal.

ligrow said:

400v its more like industrial use from where I live here . I can not imagine if I use 400v. dont even know how can I have power with 400v. shit man it could be consider commercial grow if get caught growing hydro. at least 5 years in prison not joking around here. I ma just stay low grow for myself and couple friends.

I dont have any experienced with LED either, Its really expensive and cost even more if I get one ship from state.
Would like to have a try if I can get one with good deal.

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you have to shop around bud

You can find 100w or bigger cob chips cheap like from £1 per chip, the chip is like the bulb, then you use thermal cement to glue it to the heatsink and then wire in the driver, there a lot like any other lamp with a driver but if you get it right leds will give you more and last longer plus they don`t get as hot as hps so the plants have to touch them to start a fire, lol

I`d just go with 13amp uk plugs, maybe put some 16amp fuse wire in them, your not going to draw 20 amps, or use 3 220v timers and 3 plugs

your other options would be to find a 220v heating controller they normally can be used to turn 200 to 300v on and off via times and temperatures shop around see what you can find

THE KONASSURE said:

you have to shop around bud

You can find 100w or bigger cob chips cheap like from £1 per chip, the chip is like the bulb, then you use thermal cement to glue it to the heatsink and then wire in the driver, there a lot like any other lamp with a driver but if you get it right leds will give you more and last longer plus they don`t get as hot as hps so the plants have to touch them to start a fire, lol

I`d just go with 13amp uk plugs, maybe put some 16amp fuse wire in them, your not going to draw 20 amps, or use 3 220v timers and 3 plugs

your other options would be to find a 220v heating controller they normally can be used to turn 200 to 300v on and off via times and temperatures shop around see what you can find

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Do you mean make a DIY led? Is work as well as those expensive panels?
Sure it is always better to have less heat in grom room. especially I live in the place gets very hot and humid during summer. I would love to have some leds to see how it work compare with HID.

I`d just go with 13amp uk plugs, maybe put some 16amp fuse wire in them, your not going to draw 20 amps, or use 3 220v timers and 3 plugs
This is also what I think.
I found extension cord with 220V hold 4500 watt max.
its a six plugs one, but it does not have enough room for three timers.
Two ways I think I might be able to do.
1. only use two timer. Have a timer control 2 600s
2. Get a extension with more plug, maybe 8 plugs one, then I will have enough room for three timers.
If I use second way, I need to have the plug change to the the one I bought to match the wall replaceable

What do you think?

I`d get the extension cord and then just make a wire and a plug for the extra timer you can`t fit in ?

Well not make your own led that would be very hard, all you have to do is get an led chip glue it to a heatsink and get the right driver and wire it up

making a cob led chip from scratch, I`d leave that to a factory but it could be fun

Maybe one day we`ll just buy some 3000k paint and paint a whole wall then wire it up and it`ll glow, lol

Whatever you end up doing, just remember that a circuit breakers main purpose is to protect the conductors of its circuit from an overcurrent.

A 20a breaker, with a 16ga wire won't trip if it pulls 15a. But, that wire is gonna got hot as the dickens in a hurry, and the hotter it gets the more resistive it becomes; now you have a large voltage drop. It may not burn, but the voltage drop will certainly damage most of your equipment badly