Discussion in 'Advanced Marijuana Cultivation' started by woodsmantoker, Dec 11, 2009.
Clean set up. I like it
woods kicking ass as usual!
I'm building new rooms at the moment, can't wait to show them off. Pure 6 by 3 ft canopy 2 plant perpetual with a retractable wall and screens on ceiling mounted rollers. shit's been a blast to build so far.
Hey Scroggers. Setting up first scrog tent. 14x32" screen. 1 plant or 2? Gonna be in 3gal smart pot. Under 4cob 200w kit. All organic
depends on the veg cycle. I'd run a single personally. I just like training them personally lol. good luck, post some pics when ya can
Cobs should be in Monday or Tuesday, once installed I can build my screen to suit then I shall make sure to show off a little
new scrog space is coming along, gotta wire in the 220's and breaker then i can seal it up and set the rails and nets
the goal on this build is to run perpetual on a rail through a false wall "something I've been chasing for the years I've been scrogin".. Powered by a off grid solar system. Fuck the power company!
Nice. I have a similar build coming up. Love to see your final!
You running the rail system for use in both rooms? Or rail in each..
i don't understand what you mean by this.
a light rail?
the rail runs both rooms. Just need to have a knockout section of rail like a foot long that when you open the wall up into the ceiling just bolt it in. On paper it looks pretty good. Haven't got that far yet though so we will see.
No, the rail system is for the ceiling mounted screens to transfer into the flower room. The lights are on thier own rail that stays in place. If that makes sense. Basically just think of it as a convenor into the next room. When done with flower just grab the screen and take it out the door and reload it on the rail.
Thats awesome. Who moves tje screen not the lights . Got me thinking of a redesign lol
The Lights rails I was thinking of are the new moving light rails. Like the www.lightrail3.com company
Yup! i have two of them. One for each 600 till i get my led's designed and built. So those light movers stay in their respective rooms. my plan is to use this rail for the screens http://www.stanleyhardware.com/detail/5116-plain-box-rail-n105-213. look around on that site. it will get your brain spinning with design options, options are endless!!!!!!
Moving lights is fine, but id rather just open the wall and slide the screen over. shut the wall and bam back to training in the veg room. I'm curious to see how the timing and light height play out. Gonna have to run 2 plants at a time to start. might be able to get three plants rolling with 2 light per side. But that's a way's off and my to do list is overflowing as it is lol just use what i got right now.
Thank you for the kind words gents, wonderful people as usual!
Chime in: Ridgid screen vs plyable / plyable trellis vs ridgid trellis.
The first horizontal "screen" meets demands set forth by the gardener. Typically, this is the plane at which training occurs and the use as a tool to accomplish this can be made easy. From my own gardens I employ ridgid rubber coated fencing that never becomes issue at any time due to the means of training and placement of growth. For the second and any upper trellising there after, the role of the trellis is support of virtically growing branches and to assist and maintain that vertical position throughout the remainder of the cycle. The methods used to train the plant and fill the surface area of the screen are responsible for the end result which is ease of harvest. Let me elaborate.
If you review the images of my latest post you will see the same screen that I use indoor, used outdoor. I dont always select that material outdoor however did for this cycle and for the sake of education later (Young apprentice/caregiver was on site for that season). The images show a point at which straw was added as a mulch over the raised beds. That image was taken just after training. What the young and I did was spend about two hours gently pulling each and every top back down through the screen, and pinning it under the screen but placed accordingly so as to allow even secondary growth to emerge through the screen. Within a few short days, side shoots from each branch replace where the apical top had been, and the screen fills with vertically growing shoots. The main stem now remains below the screen. Until the screens are full, never are tops allowed to grow vertically above the screen more than 8 - 12" or so (becomes too difficult to pull back through). The horizontal plane is key, for keeping even growth. The ridgid screen is the tool that allows this type of scrog training. Once full and allowed to grow vertically, another trellis is added to keep vertical colas standing and evenly spaced without touching or towering (this garden needed a third teir).
The issues I have with string and like, are the small particals of nylon and polyplastics that are released and trapped in the flower when cut. If the plant is woven through any part of the trellising or ridgid screen, removal becomes more difficult. In the case of this type of scrog methodology, at harvest, the gardener removes sections at a time by cutting the stems at just above the ridgid screen while the upper trellis is left to hold the colas in one mass. Then, with a hot knife (soldering pen) the nylon is melted in a manner that frees the entire section being harvested and already cut free of the scrog at the ridged screen. Once to this point, the gardener can grasp the nylon trellis with one hand, and the mass of colas below clig to their place within the trellis and can be removed all at once.
Now for some tid bits.
If growing in a permenant location, the plant remaining below the screen does not have to be tossed but rather can have light added and revegg back into the same framework all over again. (JS)
Another: during that cycle/season, westher became of issue as a tornado by passed the grow site by not far. Many gardens took a hit and others were distroyed. We lost a branch.
The chicken fence above the entire garden is required by law to remain legally in compliance with the laws requirements however, while discussing the function (during said storm) a large branch fell from a tree and landed directly on top of the garden site. It was about 5 inches in diameter and would easily have damaged/distroyed a large portion of the area where it would have landed except the chicken fence saved the day. (For those with overhead concerns).
The ridgid screen, allows tools to be set on top and acts quite nicely like a work bench. Items can be hung from it or attached to it. It also keeps things in place when winds are strong. A technique used to remove excess moisture from the flowers or veggitation during the season is to have a cordless leaf blower used from the underside of the screen blowig upwards. This technique also repositions the colas beautifully and can assist you with adjusting parts difficult to reach FYI.
Let me try to explain a little something here my brother. This may help you and others.
Draw a circle with a dot in the center. Below that draw an oval, also with a dot in the center. Now, draw a square around the outside of the circle so that the cicles edges just touch the edges of the square. Do the same for the oval by drawing a rectangle.
The circle and oval represent the plants and the square and rectangle represent your scrog frame. For this example you are looking down from a birds eye view. The round shape, is the formation of a plant thats branches grow evenly in all directions from the main stem (i.e. cannabis). On your first image of the circle, it is easy to see that if you measure from the center (stalk) outward to the frame of your screen, branches have about the same distance to travel to meet that point. Training, will be even as a result, and the result of your training will also be such.
From the center of your oval however, there are shorter and longer distances to reach the edges of the frame. That, is where your problems begin when training single plants to fill rectangles.
Now, if you take that same rectangle and place two smaller circles within it, you may see why I would suggest two vs one in that 14" x 36" frame. One plant per 3gal pot however.
Best of luck to you friend.
Indoor, I am using mobile (with castors 360) units that house a base tray which slides in and out. In the tray is our pot/no till garden. Above are two frames that make up a first screen and secondary trellis. Both are adjustable with raise and lower capability. These units allow me to place four plants below one light. The footprint of all four plants together is nearly 5' x 5'. Each unit is rotated in position one quarter turn daily for even uniform growth. This set up with single plant units is the most advanced and user friendly method I have used to date.
If you have questions about builds, I will post images.
What you've explained, couldn't have been better.You're my illustrious, scrogging leader. Thank you...
You my friend, alike each one of us, are leading. As a community, we guide one another forward. As a united front, we push the boundry of what was possible yesterday by creating today and a model of tomorrow. The future is bright. Thankyou for joining us and being part!
Wow man i like the method. I nvr thought of drawing it out in that way. I'd love to see a pic of your build for sure. I've been Proto typing different adjustable ideas but not set on one yet.
Major blizzard just hit yesterday too and I'm hoping it doesn't slow down the delivery of my leds by much.
Separate names with a comma.