largebudda
Member
is there anyone here that can tell how to figure out amp hours from watt hours? look at page 38 I posted there. I need to add batteries incase of storms
Experienced Electrician! Here to Answer Any and All Growroom Electrical Questions
- Thread starter bricktown73
- Start date
BasementGuerrilla
Member
I have an aeroflo 60. It uses an inline TNC 1/4HP pump that goes on the outside of the rez. I hooked the system up for the first time yesterday and it was sending electrical current through the water into my system. Everytime I touched the water I would get a small zap. I unplugged the pump and did some troubleshooting for a few hours on the phone with GH and when I plugged it in again a couple hours later it worked fine. WTF?
My guess' so far are:
1)The cheap surge protector is junk
2)The pump's electric plug wasn't balls deep into the surge protector OR the surge protector plug wasn't balls deep into the outlet.
3)One of the spray lines lightly misted the outlet/surge protector with H20.
4)Defective pump
5)My house is an old piece of shit with poor electrical wiring and sometimes it's grounded and sometimes it's not.
What do you think? I hope I don't electricute my plants...
My guess' so far are:
1)The cheap surge protector is junk
2)The pump's electric plug wasn't balls deep into the surge protector OR the surge protector plug wasn't balls deep into the outlet.
3)One of the spray lines lightly misted the outlet/surge protector with H20.
4)Defective pump
5)My house is an old piece of shit with poor electrical wiring and sometimes it's grounded and sometimes it's not.
What do you think? I hope I don't electricute my plants...
I set up a 400 watt ballast housed in a metal mailbox. I wired it and it turned on fine with a very quiet hum. Once i rigged everything up in my box and tried firing it up it just hummed and didnt fire the bulb, weird thing is that when i unplug it the bulb lights up for a second. any idea? Thanks
largebudda
Member
When you hooked everything up was anything wet; res, floor, lines? Was there a little standing water ontop of the pump?
BasementGuerrilla
Member
Yes. You think that's it? I got it set up, and then turned it on and water went everywhere. I had to go get a roll of teflon and do literally every single thing that was threaded on the entire system. I had like 12 leaks the first time I fired up the pump. I told this to GH but they said they have one they keep outside even when it rains, so the pump is fairly water resistant. But, yeah that's what I was thinking too actually. WTF?
itsgrowinglikeaweed
Well-Known Member
Wow this is awesome! Can I use a household dimmer switch, like the one that controls the speed of my ceiling fan, to control the speed of my 6in. centrifugal fan?
I need to slow it down a bit. Its too loud and too powerful. Anyone? Ideas?
I need to slow it down a bit. Its too loud and too powerful. Anyone? Ideas?
MrGreenTsi420
Active Member
thanks and will be here alot! thanks for all the help!
Giant
Active Member
Wow, thanks for this thread! I am getting ready to start my grow, and have some serious concerns about my electrical situation. I just bought a house that is fairly old, it was built in 1954 and still has the original wiring as far as I can tell. None of it is grounded, although most outlets have been switched to the three-prong type. I have two 15 amp breakers and two 20 amp breakers in my service panel, but the meter is only rated for 15 amps (240 volts). I figure at best that gives me 30 amps at 120 volts, while my breakers will allow for up to 70 amps, theoretically. Im not an electrician but that sounds really bad to me.
I have basically two options in my mind. I can replace the service panel, breakers, meter, and the wiring in my walls to be up to code. This will cost me at the minimum $1500, if I do most of the work myself. This is basically my entire grow budget. Option two would be to say fuck it, I just try to play it safe. I know with a 600w lamp and fans I should only be using about 7 amps; roughly half of a 15amp breaker. If I make sure to not plug anything else into that breaker I should be fine, right? I can also tap in a grounding rod, and at least ground the outlet in the closet I want to use. Would that buy me anything?
I have basically two options in my mind. I can replace the service panel, breakers, meter, and the wiring in my walls to be up to code. This will cost me at the minimum $1500, if I do most of the work myself. This is basically my entire grow budget. Option two would be to say fuck it, I just try to play it safe. I know with a 600w lamp and fans I should only be using about 7 amps; roughly half of a 15amp breaker. If I make sure to not plug anything else into that breaker I should be fine, right? I can also tap in a grounding rod, and at least ground the outlet in the closet I want to use. Would that buy me anything?
VictorVIcious
Well-Known Member
Giant
Uhh....hmmmm the meter can not be rated 15 amps? What is the number on the top switch, your Main switch in the service panel and 1954 isn't that old. I am older than your house.lol You mean there are only four breakers in your service panel?? If so this may not be your service panel?
Ok, I am not an electrician, as a homeowner, I would not have any option if what you are saying is accurate, I think there may be something missing here. 100amp service is not enough, and the difference between new 200amp service and 100 amp service in my area was less than $200.00. I installed the 200amp 40 space box and run my house as a subpanel with 100amps of service. What your describing is not likely, I think what your looking at may be a sub panel or you watch tv by candle light. Maybe a Picture?? VV
jtreezy420
Active Member
nybody out there installed this type of ballast? if so please respond with some help..
first q: my breaker is 220v, not 240v, although ive heard this isnt an issue...
2nd q: ill b using the dryer outlet to run my dual, however the outlet is a three pronged with an L. therefore i was thinkin of hookin a dryer pony up to a light controller (any suggestions) then hookin ballast into controller.. does this sound right?
3rd q: since the ballast will b in the laundry, i will need to run an ext cord for the reflectors (daystar ac). is this possible? do they make the 240v ext cord for this application?
4th and final q: the instructions that came with the dual state that u must NOT wire a neutral wire to the ballast. so how excatly do i go about wiring the dryer pony into the light controller?
thanks a million to anyone who can help...
first q: my breaker is 220v, not 240v, although ive heard this isnt an issue...
2nd q: ill b using the dryer outlet to run my dual, however the outlet is a three pronged with an L. therefore i was thinkin of hookin a dryer pony up to a light controller (any suggestions) then hookin ballast into controller.. does this sound right?
3rd q: since the ballast will b in the laundry, i will need to run an ext cord for the reflectors (daystar ac). is this possible? do they make the 240v ext cord for this application?
4th and final q: the instructions that came with the dual state that u must NOT wire a neutral wire to the ballast. so how excatly do i go about wiring the dryer pony into the light controller?
thanks a million to anyone who can help...
Giant
Active Member
Pictures I got, but Ill warn you that its not pretty... Yes, I am certain that this is the only breaker box. Im pretty sure that this was redone at some point and was never up to code in this configuration..
This is the best pic I have of the meter with me.. I cant read the number, but it clearly states 15amp 240volt.
Here are all four lovely breakers. Its hard to read, but the blues are marked with 15, and the reds say 20.
I will say this.. I cannot run my microwave and toaster oven at the same time without blowing the breaker for the kitchen!
ArrOgNt RocKstAR
Well-Known Member
why dont you just get a 25 foot, 12- guage extension cord for the microwave, and put it on a seperate line.
Im not sure what your trying to wire, but make sure to not put more then 12 amps max! on every outlet, not even the 20 amp outlets.
Thats the safest way to go.
Most fires are caused by 20 amps being run on a 20 amp breaker.
The wires in your walls are prob. 14 guage, not even close to being able to handle 20 amps.
Unless you paid a Master Electrician to install it or had it inspected to make sure its right, I would not trust that there is 12 guage wiring in the walls of those 20 amp outlets.
I am a service man and from what iv seen, you can not trust work that has been done, because you never know if the last electrician that installed everything, knew what he was doing or not.
Im not sure what your trying to wire, but make sure to not put more then 12 amps max! on every outlet, not even the 20 amp outlets.
Thats the safest way to go.
Most fires are caused by 20 amps being run on a 20 amp breaker.
The wires in your walls are prob. 14 guage, not even close to being able to handle 20 amps.
Unless you paid a Master Electrician to install it or had it inspected to make sure its right, I would not trust that there is 12 guage wiring in the walls of those 20 amp outlets.
I am a service man and from what iv seen, you can not trust work that has been done, because you never know if the last electrician that installed everything, knew what he was doing or not.
TaxiDriver13
Active Member
I am having an issue with my 1000 watt HPS Sun System by Sunlight Supply ballast.
For some reason it will not work when I install a 1000 watt hps bulb...It works fine with my 1000 watt Metal Halide conversion bulb.
I am thinking that maybe the ignitor is shot? Do MH conversion bulbs need an ignitor???
It has me stumped and it is time to flower. I switched my system to 12/12 with the conversion bulb as a temp. fix, but know that I need the HPS. I even bought and tried an new 1000 watt HPS bulb...WTF...Help please.
For some reason it will not work when I install a 1000 watt hps bulb...It works fine with my 1000 watt Metal Halide conversion bulb.
I am thinking that maybe the ignitor is shot? Do MH conversion bulbs need an ignitor???
It has me stumped and it is time to flower. I switched my system to 12/12 with the conversion bulb as a temp. fix, but know that I need the HPS. I even bought and tried an new 1000 watt HPS bulb...WTF...Help please.
groputillor
Active Member
Hey I posted this somewhere else but you seem like you know a lot. Maybe you can help. Thanks
So this is my first project. I was working on plans for a box to put in the garage, which seemed like an ideal place until I realized that there is no vent. Shit. Well I have a room air conditioner that I don't use, and - forgive me if this is a stupid idea - could I just place it in the garage with the box and connect it to the intake fan on the bottom of the box? The garage is on a ground floor and gets very little sun. It's not all that hot now but I'm worried the summer is gonna change that. The box will be 2.5 by 4.5 by 6 feet and I won't be using anything hotter than a 600 watt hps. Will the A/C even help without drawing air from outside the room? Do I even need it or will having an intake and outtake fan in there be enough? The garage will open and shut a few times a day so some fresh air comes in. My alternative locations are small and more troublesome. I don't wanna just give up on this. I'm stoked and wanna make this work. Please help.
So this is my first project. I was working on plans for a box to put in the garage, which seemed like an ideal place until I realized that there is no vent. Shit. Well I have a room air conditioner that I don't use, and - forgive me if this is a stupid idea - could I just place it in the garage with the box and connect it to the intake fan on the bottom of the box? The garage is on a ground floor and gets very little sun. It's not all that hot now but I'm worried the summer is gonna change that. The box will be 2.5 by 4.5 by 6 feet and I won't be using anything hotter than a 600 watt hps. Will the A/C even help without drawing air from outside the room? Do I even need it or will having an intake and outtake fan in there be enough? The garage will open and shut a few times a day so some fresh air comes in. My alternative locations are small and more troublesome. I don't wanna just give up on this. I'm stoked and wanna make this work. Please help.
dowjones618
Member
Hello everyone. I am new to the forum and I need some advice to run 1 50 amp extension cord to one of my room and 1 30 amp extension cord to my other room.
The first room:
Since I have an electric stove and I don't plan to use it. I am thinking about plugging the 20-30 feet 50 amp extension cord in the electric stove outlet. I check the breaker and it does say 50 amp. Then, I going to plug a 50 amp timer box in the extension cord.
The second room:
Basically the same setup except this is going to be a 30 amp extension cord from the washer and dryer, don't need to use it, and plug it in a 30 amp timer box.
Here is a picture of the 50 amp timer box: http://www.garden.com/item/50-amp-ti...digital-timer/
30 amp timer box:
http://www.horticulturesource.com/pr...oducts_id=1969
50 amp extension cord:
http://www.sportsmansguide.com/net/c...1&kwtid=210236
30 amp extension cord:
http://www.rvsupplywarehouse.com/pro...d/300/pid/2170
My questions are: Is it safe? Is this setup doable? Does the extension cord have to be in a straight line or can I mount it on every ceiling wall corner running it to room 1 and 2. Please give me some advices. Thanks!
The first room:
Since I have an electric stove and I don't plan to use it. I am thinking about plugging the 20-30 feet 50 amp extension cord in the electric stove outlet. I check the breaker and it does say 50 amp. Then, I going to plug a 50 amp timer box in the extension cord.
The second room:
Basically the same setup except this is going to be a 30 amp extension cord from the washer and dryer, don't need to use it, and plug it in a 30 amp timer box.
Here is a picture of the 50 amp timer box: http://www.garden.com/item/50-amp-ti...digital-timer/
30 amp timer box:
http://www.horticulturesource.com/pr...oducts_id=1969
50 amp extension cord:
http://www.sportsmansguide.com/net/c...1&kwtid=210236
30 amp extension cord:
http://www.rvsupplywarehouse.com/pro...d/300/pid/2170
My questions are: Is it safe? Is this setup doable? Does the extension cord have to be in a straight line or can I mount it on every ceiling wall corner running it to room 1 and 2. Please give me some advices. Thanks!
VictorVIcious
Well-Known Member
Yep, that needs to be fixed and new service is the best option. Mine was similar, it was 60 amp service, if the dryer was running and we tried to use the Microwave it would trip the main and that was before I started growing. Not sure of California laws. Here, I had to contact the utility company that supplies the electric, they came out and gave me the cost for the new service, in my case it was around $600 for the new service. Once you pull the permit, they supply you with a new meter.Pictures I got, but Ill warn you that its not pretty... Yes, I am certain that this is the only breaker box. Im pretty sure that this was redone at some point and was never up to code in this configuration..
This is the best pic I have of the meter with me.. I cant read the number, but it clearly states 15amp 240volt.
Here are all four lovely breakers. Its hard to read, but the blues are marked with 15, and the reds say 20.
I will say this.. I cannot run my microwave and toaster oven at the same time without blowing the breaker for the kitchen!
I put mine on 4x4 wolmanized, 4' in the ground and used redimix to cement it at the bottom. 2 grounding rods, or two points of grounding are required here, they have to be at least 8' apart and the grounding wire has to be continuous from the grounding bar in the panel to both grounding rods. Here you have to install your new service panel and wiring, have an inspection done. The inspector notified the utility and they called and scheduled the new service connection.
All of the information I needed to do this properly is in the book I bought. I have one of those rare 40th additions of Wiring Simplified, its based on the 2002 National Electric Code. They may have a new one out, this one was $10.95.
They way I figured it, I was only going to do this once, I will probably not need more than 200 apms in my lifetime so I wanted to do it right. I used 12 wire and 20 amp breakers with 20 amp receptacles, now my saw running does not dim the lights.
Thanx for the picture. VV
Giant
Active Member
I know it needs to be fixed, but does it need to be fixed before I start my grow? The way I see it, I am using a max of 20A for my house at a time (between the washer, gas dryer, microwave, TVs, fish tank and filter, and lights), even if my grow uses 7A I should be well under the dangerous threshold.
Realistically, I should be able to afford to do the electric in a few months with the money I save from the grow alone. Thanks for the help!