Experienced Electrician! Here to Answer Any and All Growroom Electrical Questions

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SweetLeaf88

Member
Hi, and thanks in advance to anyne wh can help me with this:

So far I've wired 6 CFL bulbs quite easily, by cannibalizing lamp cords for he plug end. Now I have three more lights I want to add, but no more dead lamps, so I picked up some plugs that I can wire myself, but they don't look as straightforward as the other wiring I've done.

There's only one hole to run the wires in through, so do you need to keep insulation around all the way til they meet the little metal claws in the plug? I'm assuming they can't touch or it will short, but the space inside this plug is so small I don't see how to get the wire ends in there and wrap them around anything securely. The whole thing just makes me nervous, so I guess the more important question is this- what other appliances have cords of the same type as lamps, that I might be able to use the plugs from instead of going nuts trying to make my own plugs?

I have plenty of other dead appliances around, and extension cords I don't need...or are lamp cords unique in some way?
 
tycobb48

tycobb48

Member
Noob question about my main panel before I get into anything else (not that the back and forth going on isn't entertaining) - My home inspector said I have a 'commercial' sized panel, he was surprised at it actually. The top has two pairs of main switches, both pairs labeled at 100 amps - the question is, how do I define this in terms of total power? The panel has approx 20 open slots. Thanks! PS - Don't do it - the elec company will find you and wreck your day - but if you really want to do it - Mike Holmes, of the show Holmes on Homes, refurbed a grow house where they had tapped in through the foundation and rewwired the whole house - real clean setup - I think they had added 3 extra panels to the house. Two floor cape, 1 gallon pots EVERYWHERE. But I digress...
 
Danielsgb

Danielsgb

Well-Known Member
I love Holmes. Some wiring he finds is un-believable. So fucking dangerous. See the episode from a rental that did all kinds of damage running a Hydro set up?
No clue on that panel, but sounds promising for a correct set up.
Daniels
 
C

CapnBud

Well-Known Member
CapnBud said:
bump...please any ideas ?

30amp breaker 240v
10/3 cable coming from breaker into relay (10/3 grounded into the ground strip not common strip in my breakerbox)
14/3 cable with 240v 15a connector from relay to ballast

when i plug-in in the relay plug...it should click once and then you have power to all the plugs...currently it's non stop clicking
Click to expand...
I still need help people
new relay did not resolve issue.
still clicking
 
F

fishwhistle

Active Member
fishwhistle said:
OK im gonna give this a try,im building a 20x20 room and in it ill be running 4 1000s in a flower room,a 400 and some fluorescents in the veg room and of course a bunch of fans for cooling fixtures and air movement,A/C also.I have to put in a sub panel and the run to it is approximately 300' from the panel on the house,i want to be able to add more lights later if i feel the need,what size sub panel do i need?I have already buried the conduit to the site when i had some other electrical work done,so its just a matter of pulling wire and hooking up as soon as the room is built.Thanks for any insight you can provide!
Click to expand...
BUMP,anyone?
 
M

mrjonesez

Member
tycobb48 said:
Noob question about my main panel before I get into anything else (not that the back and forth going on isn't entertaining) - My home inspector said I have a 'commercial' sized panel, he was surprised at it actually. The top has two pairs of main switches, both pairs labeled at 100 amps - the question is, how do I define this in terms of total power? The panel has approx 20 open slots. Thanks! PS - Don't do it - the elec company will find you and wreck your day - but if you really want to do it - Mike Holmes, of the show Holmes on Homes, refurbed a grow house where they had tapped in through the foundation and rewwired the whole house - real clean setup - I think they had added 3 extra panels to the house. Two floor cape, 1 gallon pots EVERYWHERE. But I digress...
Click to expand...
your panel has 200 amps of power available or 48000 watts at 240 volts or 24000 per phase (hot wire). If you add up everything in your house then its probably over 48000 but everything is never on at the same time so those switches never trip. If you try and pull power before the meter then the grid will show that power is missing. if its only a little bit of power then they dont come out. If its alot, they then get off their lazy asses and track it to a certain substation then they go to each neighborhood until they find the right neighborhood. they will catch you, it might take time. might take an experienced electrician a couple days to find it.
 
M

mrjonesez

Member
SweetLeaf88 said:
Hi, and thanks in advance to anyne wh can help me with this:

So far I've wired 6 CFL bulbs quite easily, by cannibalizing lamp cords for he plug end. Now I have three more lights I want to add, but no more dead lamps, so I picked up some plugs that I can wire myself, but they don't look as straightforward as the other wiring I've done.

There's only one hole to run the wires in through, so do you need to keep insulation around all the way til they meet the little metal claws in the plug? I'm assuming they can't touch or it will short, but the space inside this plug is so small I don't see how to get the wire ends in there and wrap them around anything securely. The whole thing just makes me nervous, so I guess the more important question is this- what other appliances have cords of the same type as lamps, that I might be able to use the plugs from instead of going nuts trying to make my own plugs?

I have plenty of other dead appliances around, and extension cords I don't need...or are lamp cords unique in some way?
Click to expand...
wow, most plugs have someting inside the actual plug to screw the wire down with. I wouldnt just wrap a wire around a prong, you can cause arc and burn your house down with the breaker never tripping. Instead, go buy about ten pull chain fixtures (you see them in garages alot) and wire them together using yellow romex with the proper connectors if needed. then get the power back to your switch or plug. You also need a metal box to screw the fixtures to. yeah man, the box is meant for extinguishing fires before they burn something like your match stick house.
 
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mrjonesez

Member
guerillastyle said:
Hey guys, I have an issue where I need to deliver power, but there are no outlets. There are a couple of electrical boxes, and lines as well. I was wondering if I could simply just tap into and existing line that powers a small powered light or so. Or would I have to go directly to the box? I am only planning on running 200 watts of cfls, a couple small fans for ventilation and that would be it. I imagine this would not put a huge load on the circuit.
Click to expand...
thats fine if what you say is true. it sounds like the existing circuit has plenty of power available. you can load a 15a circuit to 1440 watts and a 20amp to 1920 safely
 
M

mrjonesez

Member
smokey007 said:
got a prob i dont no how to wire a 250 watt hps sodium ballast any help
Click to expand...
well, i imagine its one of those ballasts that has a ton of wires to choose from. find the lead that says common, thats your white wire(neutral) the one labeled 120 is your hot. hope that helps. dont mess with the other wires, they should be pre wired for you. alot of those types of ballasts give you an option of 120,240,208,277 or 480. make sure those are capped off and not wired in.
 
M

mrjonesez

Member
CapnBud said:
I still need help people
new relay did not resolve issue.
still clicking
Click to expand...
i have a solution that you may have overlooked. The coil voltage of your relay must match the voltage coming in. test the voltage across the numbers 2 and 7 (if its an ice cube relay) that needs to match the coil voltage stamped right on top of the relay. not the contact rating, the coil rating. If you accidently feed a 240 relay with 110 it will click like that.
 
everyday.smoker

everyday.smoker

Active Member
Hey,

Could You please help me with this.
I want to connect fan with dimmer - no problem here. Then I want to connect same fan with termostat. The idea is that I turn dimmer halfway but if temps are getting to high the termostat turns it to full power. Is that possible? And is there any way to use heater termostat for fan (reverse switching - when temps gets to high it turns on)

ty
 
Danielsgb

Danielsgb

Well-Known Member
Usually a 110v fan motor isn't designed for lower speeds. It will fail much sooner. For thermostats look into one with AC controls, since they are made to kick a heater on if too cold, or an AC on if too hot.
 
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smokey007

Member
yeah alot of wires!! it came pre wired with the cap and igniter but its two com wires on the small side which do i hook up to the lamp and how will i ground it
 
IAm5toned

IAm5toned

Well-Known Member
everyday.smoker said:
Hey,

Could You please help me with this.
I want to connect fan with dimmer - no problem here. Then I want to connect same fan with termostat. The idea is that I turn dimmer halfway but if temps are getting to high the termostat turns it to full power. Is that possible? And is there any way to use heater termostat for fan (reverse switching - when temps gets to high it turns on)

ty
Click to expand...
what you are reffering to, can be done, there is even a name for it... a parallel switchleg ;) however, you will also need to incorporate a relay into the circuit if you want to do it right, or else you risk back feeding the controller with line voltage, and thats never good.

peace!
however, some advice- toss that dimmer switch and get a motor speed controller or a fan speed controller, both common items that can be found at most big box hardware stores.
dimmer switches are for lights, not motors... theres a difference!
 
tycobb48

tycobb48

Member
mrjonesez said:
your panel has 200 amps of power available or 48000 watts at 240 volts or 24000 per phase (hot wire). If you add up everything in your house then its probably over 48000 but everything is never on at the same time so those switches never trip. If you try and pull power before the meter then the grid will show that power is missing. if its only a little bit of power then they dont come out. If its alot, they then get off their lazy asses and track it to a certain substation then they go to each neighborhood until they find the right neighborhood. they will catch you, it might take time. might take an experienced electrician a couple days to find it.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the panel info. That is helpful +rep - is that the way most houses are wired?

As far as taping under the meter - not me - I'm not that foolish, especially since my less than liberal father in law works as a line supervisor for the local company. Don't need that grief.
 
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humboldt hippie

Member
hey brick -
just bought 10 acres in a very choice area. plan on building a house this summer. property is 100% off grid. very good sun, some wind, but my understanding is that i would need an acre of solar panels, a container full of batteries and some ginormous wind generators to produce the 5kw that i want. of course diesel gen is the standard for this situation but i was wondering if you know much about fuel cells? seems like the most elegant solution to me. ive researched and found i can get the fuel cell for about 10k and a seperator/hydrogyn generator for about 10k more. i just cant find anybody knowledgable to advise me on the rest. exhaustive internet searches have not uncovered the 'expert' that i need. any suggestions? thanks, humboldt hippie
 
P00T

P00T

Member
Hey Brick, and other electrically educated folk. :)

I need to relocate my medical grow to the shed in order to get a floor poured in the basement. (Unless of course I'm able to find a contractor who doesn't have an issue with it)
Currently, I run a 240v lumatek ballast (dual 600W) on a 30A circuit, and everything else on a 15A. All comming from a seperate panel which is fed from a 55A in the main.

I would like to be able to run my 240v ballast out in the shed.
Power will have to run 100', and I have procured quite the beefy 10/3 20A cord.

Questions - I know that all of the different 5-15 and 6-30 plugs/recipticles are designed to ensure we don't acidentally miss match. Is there any reason that I can't utilize a standard out-door recepticle, but wire it for 220 vs. 110 then utilize the fat extension cord as a feed into the shed?

Thanks in advance,
P00T
 
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