First CFL Grow
- Thread starter BrokeFYC
- Start date
knowledge is power my friend.. good night.
JN811
Well-Known Member
last thing im gonna say.. You can either do shit the right way.. or the half ass way.. the right way may take a bit more effort, but it will pay off in the end when ur smoking nice fat buds.. The only way I did anywere near as good as I did was because I was constantly learning about how to do it correctly. Most of which was from RIU members who had more knowledge on the topic than I did....
dude ur not a laughing stock....
lol Ill help you all u want, just keep it open and ask me anything and I will share the knowledge ive gained with you...
dude ur not a laughing stock....
lol Ill help you all u want, just keep it open and ask me anything and I will share the knowledge ive gained with you...
BrokeFYC
Well-Known Member
I could pretty much only afford the half assed way (between bills/tickets/car payments). I figured this would be a continual learning process. I guess when it comes to growing, i was book smart, and not street smart. We'll see how this goes tomorrow.
NugmanBro1
Member
That Set up Is pretty cool Cheap as hell and all parts can be bought at Home depot or lowes for under 30$. Im thinking of using a varient of that set up for vegging my mommy plant. FYC I dont think your noob. I think your just broke like me lol. But using tactics like that powerstrip can make even the ghetto growers buds Awesome. Also if you cant get mylar or Panda tarp stuff Why dont you get those white fold out poster boards that kids do thier school projects on and put it around the plant heard it works ok. also a fan because those CFL ballasts on the base of the light get kinda hot when theres a bunch on those Y splitters.
BrokeFYC
Well-Known Member
That actually might work, since i'm probably losing half my light. I saw your thread posted a few minutes ago, excited to see how you have your 8 light set up.
NugmanBro1
Member
hahaha My set up is more ghetto and requires more attention. like checking daily to move lights but It works for me =D and it allows me to just move the lights where it looks like its needed. would love to eventually get lights on all sides of the plant. Gotta work with what we got >=P
youngrich420
Active Member
im doing the same thing with the lights
darkdestruction420
Well-Known Member
im always having to re-tie my plants down and or move the lights, lol, but thats the price you pay for having a shit ton of lights in a very small area. at least once a day i do it. keeping the lighting a few cm away.
darkdestruction420
Well-Known Member
I gotta say your enthusiasm and excitement for growing and getting serious about it is quite admirable, plus it kinda takes me back to the days of the first few grows i did when i was the same way. i still love to grow and all but back then it was all so new and exciting. do you have the fan blowing on the 2 under the 42ws? the stem looks a little skinny but otherwise they look fairly good.
BrokeFYC
Well-Known Member
I've never really accomplished anything i put my mind too before. I've tried growing normal plants, and they failed. i tried getting into car repair, and i fucked up my car. i tried painting... never again. Growing just seems right. I have a fan blowing over all of them, but i didn't get it up and running until recently.
JN811
Well-Known Member
haha, thats how I feel.. My first grow I was sooo excited. Id just stare at my plants, and inspect them for ever.. This time ive lost that enthusiasm, I check them maybe once a day just to make sure there are no problems.. oo the good ol days lmfao
JN811
Well-Known Member
hahaha. listen to Dark and myself and you'll succeed!
btw you will eventually need way more than 3 42 watts for every plant.. Light is SOOO crutial to the growing process, I really dont think u understand... Read this to understand it and ull be 100x better off..Things to know about lighting
Things to know about lighting
Color rating- Measured in Kelvin (K). The higher the number, the more bluish the light. 4000K-7000K is mostly on the blue side of the spectrum, while 3000K and under goes from a white spectrum, to a redder spectrum.
How much light is needed?
The minimum amount of light required by marijuana plants is around 3000 lumens per square foot. However, it's not 100% accurate, since although you may have a 10,000 lumen light, the amount of light that reaches the plant varies with the distance between the light and plants, and reflectivity of the grow box. The ideal amount is somewhere around 7000-10,000 lumens/sqft, and as long as the plants do not burn, as much light can be used as you want.
(*note, the sun produces about 10,000 lumens/sqft, on a sunny summer day).
Determining lumens for your grow area:
Determine the square footage of your area (example in a 4 foot by 4 foot area, there is 16 square feet)
If you have a 1000 watt High Pressure Sodium, that produces (approx.) 107,000 lumens.
Divide this by 16 (your square footage) 107,000 / 16 = 6687 lumens per square foot.
So just divide the total amount of Lumens, by the total amount of Sq ft, and thats your lumens per square foot.
How far away from my plants do the lights go?
The lights in your grow room should be as close as possible to the plants without burning them. There is no such thing as too much, unless there is sufficient heat to dry out and burn the leaves. A good rule is to put your hand under the light, if its too hot for your hand, chances are that the plants will be too, so move the light up until your hand feels more comfortable. For seedlings and clones, I keep them a little further away from the light, because they are very susceptible to burning and drying out, at these stages.
Efficiency is very important when choosing a type of light. The wattage is not the most important thing, as you can see below, different types of light produce different amounts of lumens per watt. A 300 watt incandescent will produce about 5100 lumens. While a 300 watt Metal Halide (just an example, they do not come in 300 watts), will produce 27,000 lumens. Obviously far more efficient for growing, while still using the same amount of electricity.
Approximate light production:
Incandescents: 17 lumens/watt
Mercury vapor: 45-50 lumens/watt
Fluorescents: 60-70 lumens/watt
Metal halide: 90 lumens/watt
High pressure sodium: 107 lumens/watt
Incandescent lights: Incandescents are the most popular type of lights in the world. They may come advertised as incandescent, tungsten, quartz, halogen, or simply standard. The important thing about incandescents is this: they suck.
There are some incandescents which are sold as 'grow lights.' They usually have a blue coating and usually come in 60W and 120W sizes. While they may seem like a good choice to new growers, they are next to useless; they produce some light at a usable spectrum, but only have about a 5% efficiency and generate more heat than usable light. Most of us have these in our homes right now. Don't use them for growing, instead opt for a Compact Fluorescent as a cheaper but more efficient alternative.
Fluorescent lights: Fluorescents are a lot more useful than incandescents. Their efficient enough, and cheaper than HID lights. Compact fluorescent tubes are popular with growers because of their good output to size ratio. Compared to standard 4' tubes, compact fluorescent bulbs are smaller, and more can fit into a given area. Fluorescents are good for small grows on a tight budget, and for novice growers, since they do not require any special sort of wiring or understanding of the necessary bulbs for a given fixture, and are very widely available.
Fluorescent lights come in many different Kelvin ratings; often the spectrums are labeled on packaging as being 'cool white' or 'warm white.' Cool white is more blue, and is good for the vegetative stages of growth, and warm white light is more orange or reddish, and is best for the flowering stage.
High Intensity Discharge (HID) Lighting Systems:
Mercury Vapor (MV)
Mercury vapor lights are not the most efficient light for growing. They are very bright, and relatively cheap. They do emit light at the wavelengths necessary to support your plants growth, but not nearly as good as a MH or Hps light. Much of the light emitted by MV lights is bluish-white. Street lighting is what most MV lighting is used for.
Metal Halide (MH)
Metal halide lighting systems are optimal for use in the vegetative phase of growing. They emit mostly blue light, which encourages vigorous growth of foliage. They are very efficient, but can get rather expensive to start with; fluorescents may seem more appealing because of their lower price, and they are not much different when compared on a lumen-to-lumen cost level. These lights can be used through-out the grow, but will most likely result in light, fluffy buds.
High Pressure Sodium (HPS)
High pressure sodium lights emit mostly orange, yellow, and red spectrum light, which is perfect for the flowering stage of the plants growth. They are (in my opinion) the most efficient type of light available for any application. HPS lights can be used through-out the entire grow. They produce more dense and usually larger buds than any other light.
HPS lights are generally a little more expensive than MH systems of similar wattage. They are more commonly used by experienced growers because of their ability to produce tighter buds, higher lumen-output-per-watt, and will produce from start to finish.
I'll also add this graph below, i hope this post helps some of you out.
JN811
Well-Known Member
hahaha now ur talking my lingo, that is good, just make sure you have red spectrum lighting when it comes to flowering and makes sure you reflect all of the light possible and i think ull be good!!!
