high pressure aero diy skid...need help with electrical

boodadood

Active Member
o one other thing...im currently having a real hard time with cleaning out my buckets during my current grow...every res change im wiping everything down and cleaning out all the slime...adding a flush of h202 water...dumping, filling again with nute solution...adjusting pH..watching ppms etc....adding more h202 every so often...its all to keep my buckets and roots n shit clean but they still get slime all over them...i have some good growth lately...anyway, i was thinking with the HPA set up i would line the buckets with a plastic bag that has a hole in the bottom of it and just swap out these bags every so often to keep the atmosphere fresh in the root chambers and not build up slime on the buckets to maintain...what do you guys think?
 

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
BB I didn't see it in the pics but place a DMFit 200 mesh filter (push fit I/Os) between pump and buckets
 

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
Slime? Could be nutes (organic- I switched to DM Gold) or RH inside the buckets is too high- your room temp could be hot causing the moisture inside the buckets to grow slimy microbes. They could also be something growing in your rez. I use frozen plastic bottles in my rez. One still had a label, which began to break down, creating a colony which also was growing in my filter. I spent some time over the last 2 days straining the nutes; cleaning the filter and screens inside my mist heads hth
 

boodadood

Active Member
thanks PF...i didnt know they made those filters! i may get 2 of them with some spare filter elements....get rid of the blue 10" filter and use one of the DMFits between the res and the pump and one between the pump and the buckets...it would be cheaper than the one filter shown now

ive been growing in a RDWC/bubble system for a few grows now and ive never seen anything like it...i used to use GH lucas formula but now matter how long i flushed the bud had this nasty aftertaste...the same after taste no matter what strain it was...so this time i switched to technflora recipe for success kit...its all chem based except for the thrive alive b-1 red...this has some organics in it i believe...anyway, i used the b-1 red in my first veg res and thats when the problem started....im on my 3rd veg res now and i havent used it since the first one but the problem doesnt want to go away

last night i just circulated plain tap with h202 in it...im going to dump that in a few minutes and refill with new nute solution...im also going to dump more h202 in there and keep topping off with h202 every other day to see if this helps

thanks again man

BD
 

Trichy Bastard

Well-Known Member
o one other thing...im currently having a real hard time with cleaning out my buckets during my current grow...every res change im wiping everything down and cleaning out all the slime...adding a flush of h202 water...dumping, filling again with nute solution...adjusting pH..watching ppms etc....adding more h202 every so often...its all to keep my buckets and roots n shit clean but they still get slime all over them...i have some good growth lately...anyway, i was thinking with the HPA set up i would line the buckets with a plastic bag that has a hole in the bottom of it and just swap out these bags every so often to keep the atmosphere fresh in the root chambers and not build up slime on the buckets to maintain...what do you guys think?
Just run a constant low level of h202 or chlorine. It will not harm your plants, chlorine is actually used by the plants in very small levels, and h2o2 will provide oxygen. It's alot easier to stop the slime from forming than trying to get rid of it once it's formed. -Just my 2 cents

One caveat- if you are trying to grow beneficial microorgaisms then obviously this is contradictory, organic grows in hydro/aero are too much of a pain for me personally as all the water is a constant open invitation for trouble. I do love my completely organic vegetable garden however ;) .
 

Trichy Bastard

Well-Known Member
Ok Boodadood- I've caught up and read each post here, so I am on the same page as you with your setup. You cad skills and fluid dynamic knowledge are impressive, btw and I like the way you've designed your main control center. I am posting this here, only to help. I don't need to feed my ego nor do I get off on arguing with others who think differently than me, I only am a perfectionist who has tried my damndest to filter and seperate all the misinformation from what I believe is the best info in regards to aero. The other disclaimer is that I do not yet have my own setup put together and running yet. So- understand the following advice is purely for your own good should you chose to even take it, and if you don't, I wont be the least bit upset either, but I imagine you may have a constant issue of never achieving the true aero results if you don't listen to this. I also mean this for forsakenlion as well, and anyone else following along. First off, almost everyone in the world does not have a setup that pushes aero to it's maximum potential, but rather uses some or all of the components of aero to fancily reproduce NFT (abbreviation for "nutrient film technique"- the old school original hydroponics stuff). This includes Richard Stoner. Perhaps when working with Nasa- or in his own personal setups, he has stuff better dialed in, but the commercial units he sells cannot possibly create good fuzzy roots and therefore allow one to use significantly lower levels of nutes and enjoy all of the other benefits we associate with HPA like an economical drain to waste. In the Genesis units, I can easily surmise the chamber size along with the sprayers and timing would soak the roots just as good as any NFT setup. That being said, I do not believe 5 gallon buckets are large enough to ever achieve the best results either due to the very small fraction of mist that needs to be spread around, while not oversaturating the roots and heading back down the NFT road (the mechanical limitations of the components would never allow a short enough mist cycle to make it work). Don't get me wrong, Cavadge's thread is a testament that a halfway aero system can do quite well, but I'd basically compare it to the best possible NFT environment. For most people, that would be enough good results, but for anyone going through the trouble of buying and building the HPA setup, why not take care of all the fine details and go all they way? There is only one thing that seperates half ass from excellent HPA- and that is just the right amount of air and nutrient saturation to the roots. Those things are controlled by:
1) DROPLET SIZE (which requires the right pressures and nozzles) and
2) CONTROL OF THE MIST TO PROVIDE THE PROPER SATURATION (which requires an accumulator, correctly sized chamber, and precision timer/solenoids that are dialed in correctly and have short runs from solenoid to mist nozzles using small diameter tubing). Everyone always tries to get around some of the details, because they don't understand the emphasis that has to be placed on proper saturation and coverage of the roots which will spur them to grow in the super efficient fuzzy way that gives us all the special benefits of proper HPA. Alot of smart people before you and I have also tried to get round the accumulator and what not, but honestly, there really is no way to do it so far, and believe me, we've all contemplated it. The easiest way to get the best results, is to follow the way others before us have gone to get the right results, and perhaps only then try to improve on it afterwards, but you need a baseline to start from. I have seen alot of pics by now of all kinds of aero system's root results. To date, the only people I have ever seen consistently have the roots I was looking for are Atomizer, tree farmer, and G-love. That's it- literally in the whole world of aero in terms of grow sites like these, or even ads for commercial systems. Anyway, the advice I chose to follow, and is documented in my thread comes from these 3 people, who also have the same emphasis on mist control and basically all do things nearly the same way. I believe that is what seperates them from the rest of the world. Have we ever even seen any pics from Stoner? I can guess what they'd look like by the specs of his systems. Anyway, I just had to throw this advice out there, because I see alot of "thinking" going on, and with every thought it seems the blueprint is falling farther away from exactly what I was trying to tell people needed to be a certain way based on my own research and filtering.

Anyway, I really am excited that there are quite a few others pursuing this as well, and I really don't care as long as you guys are happy with your results. I just want to make sure that if you guys are trying to get the particular results I was speaking of, then you'll also have to follow the recipe very closely, paying attention to the majorly important details. Thats the way I understand it. The ony reason I took the time to write this long post was because I'd like to see everyone intersted be happy with their setups, and to get it right the first time. I hope soon I can backup my points with the results from my own build ;) .
 

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
boodadood;6304071]thanks PF...i didnt know they made those filters! i may get 2 of them with some spare filter elements....get rid of the blue 10" filter and use one of the DMFits between the res and the pump and one between the pump and the buckets...it would be cheaper than the one filter shown now. We both think alike, alas, the one after prevents the mist from shutting down, lots of run on draining the filter rez. The good news is they are cheap, and if you ever run a second system...

ive been growing in a RDWC/bubble system for a few grows now and ive never seen anything like it...i used to use GH lucas formula but now matter how long i flushed the bud had this nasty aftertaste...the same after taste no matter what strain it was...so this time i switched to technflora recipe for success kit...its all chem based except for the thrive alive b-1 red...this has some organics in it i believe...anyway, i used the b-1 red in my first veg res and thats when the problem started....im on my 3rd veg res now and i havent used it since the first one but the problem doesnt want to go away. Yeah, microbe colonies are hardy. A couple 1% H2O2 flushes should do it.

last night i just circulated plain tap with h202 in it...im going to dump that in a few minutes and refill with new nute solution...im also going to dump more h202 in there and keep topping off with h202 every other day to see if this helps. I wouldn't mix H2O2 with nutes, run them separately. Tip W/D cycles 1:1 ratio I am using 3:3 during lights on, 2:4-5 off. hth

thanks again man

BD
 

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
TrichyB: I set myself back by having my lights (300-400 w) too close to the Rubbermaid table top. The heat penetrated into the pod, creating a hot house, too hot for roots, let alone hairs. FYI, I have had 2 defective Hygrometers that I planned to use to monitor the pod temps/RH, and so have been winging it, but when I would lift the lid, I could feel the heat on my face. I pulled the light back to roughly 8" above, and most of the plants have made a comeback. Such setbacks stunt plant growth to the point of pulling and starting over, but since I have the space I kept them to learn from. Plan to move the stunted plants outdoors, once the newly popped seeds are ready to take their place.

I will post pics now that an abundance of new roots are clearly visible. Of course, they will have to mature before I can reduce the wet cycle; currently 3 seconds, which is probably too long for root hairs. I reduced night mist to 2 seconds: 3 min, but they all had a slight wilt this morning, so I will keep the 3 but at night increase the dry cycle a bit. hth
 

boodadood

Active Member
Ok Boodadood- I've caught up and read each post here, so I am on the same page as you with your setup. You cad skills and fluid dynamic knowledge are impressive, btw and I like the way you've designed your main control center. I am posting this here, only to help. I don't need to feed my ego nor do I get off on arguing with others who think differently than me, I only am a perfectionist who has tried my damndest to filter and seperate all the misinformation from what I believe is the best info in regards to aero. The other disclaimer is that I do not yet have my own setup put together and running yet. So- understand the following advice is purely for your own good should you chose to even take it, and if you don't, I wont be the least bit upset either, but I imagine you may have a constant issue of never achieving the true aero results if you don't listen to this. I also mean this for forsakenlion as well, and anyone else following along. First off, almost everyone in the world does not have a setup that pushes aero to it's maximum potential, but rather uses some or all of the components of aero to fancily reproduce NFT (abbreviation for "nutrient film technique"- the old school original hydroponics stuff). This includes Richard Stoner. Perhaps when working with Nasa- or in his own personal setups, he has stuff better dialed in, but the commercial units he sells cannot possibly create good fuzzy roots and therefore allow one to use significantly lower levels of nutes and enjoy all of the other benefits we associate with HPA like an economical drain to waste. In the Genesis units, I can easily surmise the chamber size along with the sprayers and timing would soak the roots just as good as any NFT setup. That being said, I do not believe 5 gallon buckets are large enough to ever achieve the best results either due to the very small fraction of mist that needs to be spread around, while not oversaturating the roots and heading back down the NFT road (the mechanical limitations of the components would never allow a short enough mist cycle to make it work). Don't get me wrong, Cavadge's thread is a testament that a halfway aero system can do quite well, but I'd basically compare it to the best possible NFT environment. For most people, that would be enough good results, but for anyone going through the trouble of buying and building the HPA setup, why not take care of all the fine details and go all they way? There is only one thing that seperates half ass from excellent HPA- and that is just the right amount of air and nutrient saturation to the roots. Those things are controlled by:
1) DROPLET SIZE (which requires the right pressures and nozzles) and
2) CONTROL OF THE MIST TO PROVIDE THE PROPER SATURATION (which requires an accumulator, correctly sized chamber, and precision timer/solenoids that are dialed in correctly and have short runs from solenoid to mist nozzles using small diameter tubing). Everyone always tries to get around some of the details, because they don't understand the emphasis that has to be placed on proper saturation and coverage of the roots which will spur them to grow in the super efficient fuzzy way that gives us all the special benefits of proper HPA. Alot of smart people before you and I have also tried to get round the accumulator and what not, but honestly, there really is no way to do it so far, and believe me, we've all contemplated it. The easiest way to get the best results, is to follow the way others before us have gone to get the right results, and perhaps only then try to improve on it afterwards, but you need a baseline to start from. I have seen alot of pics by now of all kinds of aero system's root results. To date, the only people I have ever seen consistently have the roots I was looking for are Atomizer, tree farmer, and G-love. That's it- literally in the whole world of aero in terms of grow sites like these, or even ads for commercial systems. Anyway, the advice I chose to follow, and is documented in my thread comes from these 3 people, who also have the same emphasis on mist control and basically all do things nearly the same way. I believe that is what seperates them from the rest of the world. Have we ever even seen any pics from Stoner? I can guess what they'd look like by the specs of his systems. Anyway, I just had to throw this advice out there, because I see alot of "thinking" going on, and with every thought it seems the blueprint is falling farther away from exactly what I was trying to tell people needed to be a certain way based on my own research and filtering.

Anyway, I really am excited that there are quite a few others pursuing this as well, and I really don't care as long as you guys are happy with your results. I just want to make sure that if you guys are trying to get the particular results I was speaking of, then you'll also have to follow the recipe very closely, paying attention to the majorly important details. Thats the way I understand it. The ony reason I took the time to write this long post was because I'd like to see everyone intersted be happy with their setups, and to get it right the first time. I hope soon I can backup my points with the results from my own build ;) .

thanks for your feedback man...i really appreciate it...youre absolutley right too...in my earlier threads i eluded to using full size trash bins as root chambers...the last design i posted was stacked 5 gallon buckets....intuition told me the trash bins would be best...but my already-owned grow tent told me to use the buckets :0(

that being said, what do you think about the use of trash bins? how about my manifold/solenoid set up? do you think the 2nd mister furthest from the solenoid will see the same action as the one closer to it? any other reccomendations you can make on improvements will be much much much appreciated

i just got into this a few weeks ago...i never really put 2 and 2 together as far as HPA vs LPA...to be quite honest i didnt even know there was a difference...i thought aero was aero...i currently grow in an LPA/NFT bucket system and ive gotten decent results...but i want the pompoms...once i found HPA i immediately fell for it...im a water guy by trade and by hobby...HPA is the best of both worlds for me...im really anxious to get the design finalized where i know im going to get top notch results without me wasting 5 or 6 bills for a glorified NFT system...i already have a glorified NFT system

again, thanks for the input man...much respect to the ones before me

when are you commissioning your system? are you still waiting on parts?

BD
 

r0m30

Active Member
BD, a question for you. Is there any way to determine how long it would take an air chamber (no bladder) to fill with water at a given temp and pressure? I added a 1" air chamber that is 12" long to my system to finally rid myself of the kick from the solenoids and I'm wondering if it will last the entire grow or I'm going to have to drain the system at some point to recharge it.
 

boodadood

Active Member
you need to know either the flow rate or the velocity of the flow...which is pretty much the same thing in this case...what do you know about the pressure? is there a reference to flow that you can make? like i know i output 1 gpm at 100 psi or some shit? otherwise...you can go old school and weigh/time a water sample...thats where the temp would come in handy

if you dont know the flow rate, then collect a known volume of water and time it...divide the volume of water by the time and this is your volumetric flow rate...we can use this to calculate the time it would take...for more accurate results, just collect some water and make note of the time...then weigh the water and record the temperature...use the temperature to find the density of the water and then calculate your "mass" flow rate....this is more accurate especially if you're talking about small amounts of water...you need an accurate scale...garbage in = garbage out...but either way would give you a decent ballpark number...assuming thats all your looking for

BD
 

boodadood

Active Member
once you know the flow rate...take the volume of the cylinder (length times area) and divide the volumetric flow rate by the volume...if your volume is in cubic inches, then make sure your flow rate is in cubic inches per second or cubic inches per minute to find the time

to clear up my earlier post...when you weigh the water and time it, and divide by the two you get the mass flow rate...you need the temp to find density (from a wikipedia chart) so you can convert this to volumetric flow in cubic inches and then follow the step above...you divide the mass flow by the density using the same units to find the volume flow in this manner...measuring a known volume over time for your purposes is most likely just fine to avoid all this lol

BD
 

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
RE: SLIME Here's a tip I picked up from Pod Racer's threads... Place something with lots of surface are in your rez for the colonies to attach. This prevents them from passing through and clogging your filter/mist heads. I had to re-implement this morning. as my filter screen keeps getting colonized, which effects flow. I had droopy leaves this morning and sure enough ~ 15% of the screen was colonized. Now the colonies might go away once I make a fresh batch of nutes, but this time I tried filtering the nutes through a coffee filter, and clearly they're back, so...

You can use anything that is porous. I used some lava rock and dropped it into 3" net pot. hth
 

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
Here's a recovering root shot. I think it would be near impossible to resurrect any other way than HPA. The dark (older) roots were literally burning up, and just when root hairs were appearing. The roots on the right are mind-blowing in that there was only one scraggly/dangly root and now.

And while it is clearly possible to resurrect, plant growth suffers and may never achieve its' full potential.


IMG_0815.jpg
 

r0m30

Active Member
you need to know either the flow rate or the velocity of the flow...which is pretty much the same thing in this case...what do you know about the pressure? is there a reference to flow that you can make? like i know i output 1 gpm at 100 psi or some shit? otherwise...you can go old school and weigh/time a water sample...thats where the temp would come in handy

if you dont know the flow rate, then collect a known volume of water and time it...divide the volume of water by the time and this is your volumetric flow rate...we can use this to calculate the time it would take...for more accurate results, just collect some water and make note of the time...then weigh the water and record the temperature...use the temperature to find the density of the water and then calculate your "mass" flow rate....this is more accurate especially if you're talking about small amounts of water...you need an accurate scale...garbage in = garbage out...but either way would give you a decent ballpark number...assuming thats all your looking for

BD
once you know the flow rate...take the volume of the cylinder (length times area) and divide the volumetric flow rate by the volume...if your volume is in cubic inches, then make sure your flow rate is in cubic inches per second or cubic inches per minute to find the time

to clear up my earlier post...when you weigh the water and time it, and divide by the two you get the mass flow rate...you need the temp to find density (from a wikipedia chart) so you can convert this to volumetric flow in cubic inches and then follow the step above...you divide the mass flow by the density using the same units to find the volume flow in this manner...measuring a known volume over time for your purposes is most likely just fine to avoid all this lol

BD
Am I missing something or is that how long it would take to fill the volume with an unrestricted flow?

I have my 1/4" line running through a 1" tee, the tee then has 12" of 1" pvc that is capped on the end. The flow rate is about .5 gal per day at a resting pressure of 100PSI this then falls to 80PSI when the solenoid opens and returns to 100PSI when it closes. I didn't do any flow calcs (Renolds number, etc) because the system was small enough that I didn't believe they were necessary.

I know that eventually the pressure in the system will cause the air to be absorbed by the water and the water hammer will be back.

Sounds like it may be easier to just wait and find out as the grow progresses.

Thanks.
 

boodadood

Active Member
i think im lost here...you have a 1/4" line running into a 1" tee? the take off of the tee is connected to a 1" pvc capped pipe, 12" long...the other side of the 1" tee is 1/4" tubing? the pvc pipe is doing what now? if its just teed off and capped then it just gets filled with water the same time the other side of the tee does...im not sure what the point of the pipe is really...if the valve is downstream of the tee and pipe then i would expect the pvc pipe to be flooded just as the other sections of plumbing are when you pressurize the system

at any rate, flow is flow..its continuous...you lose a little to friction on fittings but it shouldnt be a big deal...no need to get into reynolds or friction factors or anything...if you have .5 gpd flowing then thats your flow...a restriction in the line will effect pressure but on the scale we're discussing should not affect flow...the only way that flow would change is if u had a tee in the line going somewhere else...feeding water to something....a tee in the line going to a capped off pipe is a dead leg in the circuit...you're still flowing what youre flowing

am i understanding this correctly?

BD
 

r0m30

Active Member
i think im lost here...you have a 1/4" line running into a 1" tee? the take off of the tee is connected to a 1" pvc capped pipe, 12" long...the other side of the 1" tee is 1/4" tubing? the pvc pipe is doing what now? if its just teed off and capped then it just gets filled with water the same time the other side of the tee does...im not sure what the point of the pipe is really...if the valve is downstream of the tee and pipe then i would expect the pvc pipe to be flooded just as the other sections of plumbing are when you pressurize the system

at any rate, flow is flow..its continuous...you lose a little to friction on fittings but it shouldnt be a big deal...no need to get into reynolds or friction factors or anything...if you have .5 gpd flowing then thats your flow...a restriction in the line will effect pressure but on the scale we're discussing should not affect flow...the only way that flow would change is if u had a tee in the line going somewhere else...feeding water to something....a tee in the line going to a capped off pipe is a dead leg in the circuit...you're still flowing what youre flowing

am i understanding this correctly?

BD
I couldn't find a reasonably priced water hammer arrestor that didn't have any copper or brass in the wetted areas. I went old school and put in an air chamber. The tee and the 12" of pipe are at a high point of the system to trap air in the pipe and produce the air chamber. The intent, and so far it seems to be working, is to reduce the hydraulic shock from the solenoid closing. What I was trying to figure out is if there is any way to determine how long it will take for the water to absorb the air, at which point I will have to drain and recharged the system.
 

boodadood

Active Member
I couldn't find a reasonably priced water hammer arrestor that didn't have any copper or brass in the wetted areas. I went old school and put in an air chamber. The tee and the 12" of pipe are at a high point of the system to trap air in the pipe and produce the air chamber. The intent, and so far it seems to be working, is to reduce the hydraulic shock from the solenoid closing. What I was trying to figure out is if there is any way to determine how long it will take for the water to absorb the air, at which point I will have to drain and recharged the system.

aahh haaa...i see...very clever...does it seem to be working for you? i am not sure how to calculate the time it would take for your expansion pipe to fill...it would be a much easier thing to measure or even guestimate...i would recommend that you increase the length of the pipe from 12" to something longer, say 18" if you are concerned with it filling all the way and you have the room....obviously the longer the pipe, the longer its going to take to fill...and as you already know, to empty it you will have to empty everything so doing this too many times could be a PIA

BD
 

r0m30

Active Member
aahh haaa...i see...very clever...does it seem to be working for you? i am not sure how to calculate the time it would take for your expansion pipe to fill...it would be a much easier thing to measure or even guestimate...i would recommend that you increase the length of the pipe from 12" to something longer, say 18" if you are concerned with it filling all the way and you have the room....obviously the longer the pipe, the longer its going to take to fill...and as you already know, to empty it you will have to empty everything so doing this too many times could be a PIA

BD
So far it's working, the needle on the regulated pressure gauge moves slow enough you can follow it and the tubing doesn't jump any more. I chose those dimensions because they fit where I wanted to install the pipe, I'm not sure if I should be concerned or not, I was hoping that I could calculate a guesstimate, I'll have to wait and see.
Thanks.
 

boodadood

Active Member
ya man...i wish i had something for ya on that one...but i got zip

just monitor it for a bit youll be able to gauge it yourself im sure

BD
 
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