high pressure aero diy skid...need help with electrical

r0m30 · Sep 22, 2011

boodadood said:
ya man...i wish i had something for ya on that one...but i got zip

No worries, thanks.

boodadood · Sep 24, 2011

ok so i rethought the whole root chamber and solenoid thing...here is what im thinking

i make an 18" x 18" x 3' box for each root chamber...i leave one side open and put a 4-6" hole on the top for the net pot...i build it out of plywood and seal the joints with non-toxic sealant of some sort...i then secure insulation to all faces of the inside and then line the insides with shower curtain...on the open side of each box i hang more shower curtain...probably with some velcro stripping...this will be to access each root chamber...each box is painted white....there will be a screen at the bottom of each box and ill put a small pan to collect the DTW and just suck it up with the shop vac every once in a while

1 mister would be installed on the back of each box with one solenoid mounted as close as possible to it...it would all be fed off a common 1/2" manifold supplied by the HPA control box in the other layouts ive posted

my current tent doesnt have the height i need for HPA...ive come to that conclusion...so im going to get another tent...this one a 4'x4'...so with that, im going with 4 plants...i will most likely not scrog depending on how high the tent ends up being

so what do you think? do you think the root chambers are large enough? do you think i will have wood rotting issues? do you think i could just use one solenoid at the entrance of the manifold?

thanks
BD

Trichy Bastard · Sep 25, 2011

boodadood said:
thanks for your feedback man...i really appreciate it...youre absolutley right too...in my earlier threads i eluded to using full size trash bins as root chambers...the last design i posted was stacked 5 gallon buckets....intuition told me the trash bins would be best...but my already-owned grow tent told me to use the buckets :0(

that being said, what do you think about the use of trash bins? how about my manifold/solenoid set up? do you think the 2nd mister furthest from the solenoid will see the same action as the one closer to it? any other reccomendations you can make on improvements will be much much much appreciated

i just got into this a few weeks ago...i never really put 2 and 2 together as far as HPA vs LPA...to be quite honest i didnt even know there was a difference...i thought aero was aero...i currently grow in an LPA/NFT bucket system and ive gotten decent results...but i want the pompoms...once i found HPA i immediately fell for it...im a water guy by trade and by hobby...HPA is the best of both worlds for me...im really anxious to get the design finalized where i know im going to get top notch results without me wasting 5 or 6 bills for a glorified NFT system...i already have a glorified NFT system

again, thanks for the input man...much respect to the ones before me

when are you commissioning your system? are you still waiting on parts?

BD

hehe, my life is just "tough lately" is the best way to put it. I have been dealing with some health issues as well as money issues, started a new job though, and have zero free time. That's sort of the simplified version. I'll spare you the rest of the details

.

Anyway, it takes a while to wrap your head around what really matters in aero, some people will never understand. I have been lucky enough to get advice from some people who really have the results we are trying to get, and I truly understand why they say what they say by now. I still need to put it all together for myself, however I am confident I "see the light".

Larger root chambers are better because they have the volume to absorb the extra mist needed to create full coverage. They also offer airspace for the mist to expand and move around freely to spread efficiently. Face it, a 5 gallon bucket needs more than 1 mister (which is already too must mist for so small of volume) but it needs at least 2 misters to ensure both sides of the roots are covered. Lack of coverage will cause root death. Unfortunately the 2 mist nozzles will double the amount of mist, which means you have to cut your cycle time in half of what it was. It was already necessary to be VERY short because it was only 5 gallons of airspace, and now you need to cut that time in half, so your mist timing would have to be so small that there is no possible way to mechanically do it in order to not overmist. A good way to smooth out this issue is to not use isolated chambers for each plant, but use one larger chamber with multiple plantings. You can take advantage of the larger volume of air, but share it with more than one plant. The trash containers might work for one plant each, but you will still need at least 2 nozzles for coverage. Without doing the math, you will need short mist cycles for 2 misters in say 30 gallons of airspace. It is mechanically possible however, whereas in a 5 gallon bucket it is not. In regards to the manifold situation, if your worried about some shorter lines having more pressure than the longer runs, try balancing the system out by using T's and having a complete circle of mist line in a closed loop. Sort of like the difference between parallel and series if you catch my drift. To illustrate what I'm getting at, say you have 2 misters. Instead of having just a single T off the pump left/right to feed each mister, include an additional T's at each mister, and connect the backside of each T to eachother so you have a big circle with misters at each side. It should help balance out the differences if that made any sense. I am not a fluid dynamics guy, but it makes logical sense in my mind that it would help balance the system out. The loop should have equal pressure at any point, and as long as the line from the T's to each mister is similar in length, they should all have about the same pressure feed. Hope this makes sense, and please anyone correct my thinking if I am wrong.

Trichy Bastard · Sep 25, 2011

r0m30 said:
Am I missing something or is that how long it would take to fill the volume with an unrestricted flow?

I have my 1/4" line running through a 1" tee, the tee then has 12" of 1" pvc that is capped on the end. The flow rate is about .5 gal per day at a resting pressure of 100PSI this then falls to 80PSI when the solenoid opens and returns to 100PSI when it closes. I didn't do any flow calcs (Renolds number, etc) because the system was small enough that I didn't believe they were necessary.

I know that eventually the pressure in the system will cause the air to be absorbed by the water and the water hammer will be back.

Sounds like it may be easier to just wait and find out as the grow progresses.

Thanks.

It's not cheap, but the do make see through PVC that will take high pressures (you could visually see how much air is in there, and it might be fun to watch it compress as it takes the shocks). I understand that you are trying to make a DIY water hammer arrestor. Honsetly, by the time you buy the clear PVC it will probably cost the same amount as a commercial arrestor however. Perhaps you can just add on a tire type air valve and apply pressureized air once in a while to top it off? Trying to calculate the air absorbed into the water would be really hard considering the constant changing psi and temperature fluctuations. What if you made it a screw off type tube that you could unscrew once a month or so, let fill with air, and screw back on? You may have to have a way to purge any bubbles that get into your lines afterwards, but it could work.

Trichy Bastard · Sep 25, 2011

boodadood said:
ok so i rethought the whole root chamber and solenoid thing...here is what im thinking

i make an 18" x 18" x 3' box for each root chamber...i leave one side open and put a 4-6" hole on the top for the net pot...i build it out of plywood and seal the joints with non-toxic sealant of some sort...i then secure insulation to all faces of the inside and then line the insides with shower curtain...on the open side of each box i hang more shower curtain...probably with some velcro stripping...this will be to access each root chamber...each box is painted white....there will be a screen at the bottom of each box and ill put a small pan to collect the DTW and just suck it up with the shop vac every once in a while

1 mister would be installed on the back of each box with one solenoid mounted as close as possible to it...it would all be fed off a common 1/2" manifold supplied by the HPA control box in the other layouts ive posted

my current tent doesnt have the height i need for HPA...ive come to that conclusion...so im going to get another tent...this one a 4'x4'...so with that, im going with 4 plants...i will most likely not scrog depending on how high the tent ends up being

so what do you think? do you think the root chambers are large enough? do you think i will have wood rotting issues? do you think i could just use one solenoid at the entrance of the manifold?

thanks
BD

The design may work, if you can get the shower curtain to adequately seal the wood. Perhaps coating with epoxy would be better? I believe a single mister may not be enough to adequeatly cover the entire root mass on all sides, but you can test and see.

r0m30 · Sep 25, 2011

boodadood said:
ok so i rethought the whole root chamber and solenoid thing...here is what im thinking

i make an 18" x 18" x 3' box for each root chamber...i leave one side open and put a 4-6" hole on the top for the net pot...i build it out of plywood and seal the joints with non-toxic sealant of some sort...i then secure insulation to all faces of the inside and then line the insides with shower curtain...on the open side of each box i hang more shower curtain...probably with some velcro stripping...this will be to access each root chamber...each box is painted white....there will be a screen at the bottom of each box and ill put a small pan to collect the DTW and just suck it up with the shop vac every once in a while

1 mister would be installed on the back of each box with one solenoid mounted as close as possible to it...it would all be fed off a common 1/2" manifold supplied by the HPA control box in the other layouts ive posted

my current tent doesnt have the height i need for HPA...ive come to that conclusion...so im going to get another tent...this one a 4'x4'...so with that, im going with 4 plants...i will most likely not scrog depending on how high the tent ends up being

so what do you think? do you think the root chambers are large enough? do you think i will have wood rotting issues? do you think i could just use one solenoid at the entrance of the manifold?

thanks
BD

Trichy Bastard said:
The design may work, if you can get the shower curtain to adequately seal the wood. Perhaps coating with epoxy would be better? I believe a single mister may not be enough to adequeatly cover the entire root mass on all sides, but you can test and see.

Coverage from a single mister was my concern as well when I read your post.

Trichy Bastard said:
It's not cheap, but the do make see through PVC that will take high pressures (you could visually see how much air is in there, and it might be fun to watch it compress as it takes the shocks). I understand that you are trying to make a DIY water hammer arrestor. Honsetly, by the time you buy the clear PVC it will probably cost the same amount as a commercial arrestor however. Perhaps you can just add on a tire type air valve and apply pressureized air once in a while to top it off? Trying to calculate the air absorbed into the water would be really hard considering the constant changing psi and temperature fluctuations. What if you made it a screw off type tube that you could unscrew once a month or so, let fill with air, and screw back on? You may have to have a way to purge any bubbles that get into your lines afterwards, but it could work.

Have you priced stainless water hammer arrestors? The ones I found were $300 & up, I made all the effort to keep brass and copper out of the system, it would seem like such a wasted effort if I installed a brass commercial water hammer arrestor. I'm thinking about V2, with either a screw on top or maybe a 4x cross with a drain valve at the bottom. Maybe I'll just get lucky and it will last the entire grow, purging it at the beginning of the grow wouldn't be a problem.

Trichy Bastard · Sep 26, 2011

r0m30 said:
Coverage from a single mister was my concern as well when I read your post.

Have you priced stainless water hammer arrestors? The ones I found were $300 & up, I made all the effort to keep brass and copper out of the system, it would seem like such a wasted effort if I installed a brass commercial water hammer arrestor. I'm thinking about V2, with either a screw on top or maybe a 4x cross with a drain valve at the bottom. Maybe I'll just get lucky and it will last the entire grow, purging it at the beginning of the grow wouldn't be a problem.

I believe cavadge listed a reasonably priced one at 80$ or so, but It's a dim memory. I also agree with keeping brass and copper out of the system because the copper reacts with the salts and can reach toxic levels to the plants. However- I have heard a part here and there are really not such a big deal- especially where the nutes are not sitting for long periods of time with such piece. Most of the solution will be sliding by without even really getting up into the arrestor, the little that does I doubt would ever pose a noticeable issue at all. DTW is much more forgiving like that, if you recirculated with copper components it would not be nearly as forgiving.

PetFlora · Sep 26, 2011

Pod Size: If you go back and explore Pod Racer's thread he/they were making one large table in the space of your 4. I think if you make it 36 X 36 or better 48 X 48 you will have much better success- and significantly more air space for the mist to expand and fall. I intuit that 18 X 18 is going to create too much dead space in the close corners. I now when Atomizer recommended that I increase my pod size (I went from 18G to 30+G) that the roots really appreciated it.

I think I recall they too had water hammer, but resolved it by making a larger rez. I went from 2-3g of nutes to 5+ and the hammering subsided. hth

r0m30 · Sep 26, 2011

Trichy Bastard said:
I believe cavadge listed a reasonably priced one at 80$ or so, but It's a dim memory. I also agree with keeping brass and copper out of the system because the copper reacts with the salts and can reach toxic levels to the plants. However- I have heard a part here and there are really not such a big deal- especially where the nutes are not sitting for long periods of time with such piece. Most of the solution will be sliding by without even really getting up into the arrestor, the little that does I doubt would ever pose a noticeable issue at all. DTW is much more forgiving like that, if you recirculated with copper components it would not be nearly as forgiving.

The one Cav used was nickle plated with a brass plunger. I may end up using a commercial one but the DIY should work, they used air chambers in residential plumbing for a long time.

boodadood · Sep 26, 2011

Trichy Bastard said:
A good way to smooth out this issue is to not use isolated chambers for each plant, but use one larger chamber with multiple plantings. You can take advantage of the larger volume of air, but share it with more than one plant. The trash containers might work for one plant each, but you will still need at least 2 nozzles for coverage.

i keep flip flopping between square vs round, single plant vs multiple...it really all comes down to what is going to work best for me...and right now i cant deal with getting a bigger tent or expanding the space i already use

im stuck with my 2x4 tent...for now at least....i was going to go to a big rectangular rubbermaid bin but there isnt one out there that has the depth im looking for...there are single rubbermaid square containers that are 30" deep but cost a pretty penny...i think id rather go square vs round for the extra square area you get...but i cant find anything off the shelf....and i really dont want to mess with making my own root chamber...making my little control module is going to be more than enough

so i narrowed it down to 20 gallon rubbermaid brute trash bins...ther 32 gallon ones are too big to fit in the POS tent i have and the 10 gallon ones are way too small....they are only 20 bucks each and the lids are nice n flat

Trichy Bastard said:
In regards to the manifold situation, if your worried about some shorter lines having more pressure than the longer runs, try balancing the system out by using T's and having a complete circle of mist line in a closed loop. Sort of like the difference between parallel and series if you catch my drift. To illustrate what I'm getting at, say you have 2 misters. Instead of having just a single T off the pump left/right to feed each mister, include an additional T's at each mister, and connect the backside of each T to eachother so you have a big circle with misters at each side. It should help balance out the differences if that made any sense. I am not a fluid dynamics guy, but it makes logical sense in my mind that it would help balance the system out. The loop should have equal pressure at any point, and as long as the line from the T's to each mister is similar in length, they should all have about the same pressure feed. Hope this makes sense, and please anyone correct my thinking if I am wrong.

i totally hear ya on this one...that was a point i was trying to make earlier....in the first manifold design, i had them in series...the last post with the 4 three sided wooden root chambers had a parallel manifold in the back feeding everything at the same pressure

now im on a new kick with the brute trash bins...im going to post a detail of the mister connections through the bins when i have a moment

thanks for all the insight man

boodadood · Sep 26, 2011

PetFlora said:
Pod Size: If you go back and explore Pod Racer's thread he/they were making one large table in the space of your 4. I think if you make it 36 X 36 or better 48 X 48 you will have much better success- and significantly more air space for the mist to expand and fall. I intuit that 18 X 18 is going to create too much dead space in the close corners. I now when Atomizer recommended that I increase my pod size (I went from 18G to 30+G) that the roots really appreciated it.

thanks PF...im not going to go that big as im going to have to stay in the tent i currently have....but im going to go with 20 gallon trash bins...see below for the update n let me know what you think pls

BD

boodadood · Sep 26, 2011

ok so it all starts with the 20 gallon rubbermaid brute trash bins..the white ones...im going to install 2 misters in each bin and have 2 bins...i checked the dimensions and even if i put them on cinderblocks to drain the bins, i will still have about 20" each for the top of the plant and the root mass...i know its not much but its what im workin with here...im going to scrog..if that helps we'll see...but im hoping the extra diameter of the trash bins allows the roots to hang freely and the mist to circulate well inside...i can always play with the timing or hook up some sort of exhaust system to vent out mist on a timer if it gets too stuffy in there

anyway, i take a bulkhead push to connect fitting and install it for each mister location...inside the bin i use a stem adapter to male npt to get me to a reducing coupling that i can screw the mister into...on the other side of the bulkhead is some tube leading to the valve...the valve will have a male npt x push to connect adapter fitting...im thinkin i would mount the valve directly under the bulkhead and use a small piece of tube to connect the two, getting the valve as close as possible

on the other side of the valve (not shown) would be tubing to a tee...that tee would have another identical valve/mister/tube assembly coming into it, using the same length tubes, with the back end of the tee heading back to another tee

that other tee would have the same exact double valve/mister/tube assembly coming into the other side of it with the back end going back to the regulator

im going to use 3/8" push to connect fittings from mcmaster because they are cheaper than JG, still rated for 150 psi, and easier for me to get

i actually have some tees and male adapters on the way already

i really appreciate all the feedback you guys are giving me on this shit...i know i keep flipflopping my design around but i want to get it right and i have some limitations i need to remember...that i wish i could forget!

even if i dont get the best lookin HPA roots out of the 20 gallon tubs, i can at least get my feet wet with hpa and look to improve on things for the future

thanks again all

BD

PetFlora · Sep 27, 2011

My space is 2 X 4, When growing 4 plants I now use a 33G Rubbermaid Tote. Staggering the holes to give a bit more breathing/circulating room for the mist.

If you look at the pic below and peer through the lava rock (which turned out to be unnecessary, you will see the plastic grate. The roots laid on top without going through. Somewhere I have a pic without the rock, but cannot find it.

I know, these aren't HPA roots. This is a 18G tote. Atomizer pointed out that it was too small for the mist to expand properly. I moved the plants into a 33G tote, adjusted mist cycle to 2 seconds and root hairs developed all over the existing roots. It was cool to see, and reinforced the relationship between mist times and pod volume.

Note the Reptile Basics sourced mist heads are on articulating arms that also swivel. I have found this invaluable for making minor positioning adjustments. IMHO I think your heads are positioned too low. hth

foresakenlion · Sep 28, 2011

F&D table is not ideal, I'm aware, I have it, I can't justify using something else until next run, then I'll upgrade, it won't puddle, I'll tilt it towards the drain, misters will be minimum needed if more are required they will be added.

BD if we were anal about the 100 psi being directly behind the mister could we use as an example a 200 psi pump + accumulator to regulators @ 100 psi before the solenoid directly mounted to the mister, this could potentially overcome a lot of issues in custom scenarios by giving leaveway.

BD your description was very helpful, to me and I'm sure it will be to others.

20" isn't enough to allow your strain to potential, all but the smallest plants will want more height. Scrog them if you go this route to avoid overgrowth issues.

If you search your local stores they sell these yard waste tub/buckets, usually with rope handles on them for around a dollar, they have a good depth over a foot, and more than a foot in diameter, add a cover and there you go.

Long term though, and for my upgrade, I'm thinking those sanitation tubs with the drains pre-installed are very nice, and fish and reptile terrariums, especially have the depth. But all the pre-fabricated solutions are expensive, sans the above if valid.

Cyclinders would make excellent chambers, I found some MET classification, ABS and PET sewer pipe w/ large diameters, while on the hunt for larger orfice couplers, after being inspired to use them by PF. I've seen them before used with neoprene, but never had an occasion to incorporate. My list of couplers got nuked though by a HD crash, so after I compile that I'll make sure to update the thread, for the worlds edification.

More tradtional methods of building flood tables could be adapted easily, simply build your frame out of the materials of your choice, they don't need to be strong since this isn't really a table but a chamber, and it won't be storing mass amount of water, this of course could be accomplished by raising the table and DTW, or two pumps, each connected to their own triple float switch array, for triple redundancy on the switches, and double on the pumps. However, I have no experinece w/ though I am lead to believe, two sumps would achieve the same redundancy and function. DTW is the easiest obviously but, to automate it you still need the above, so to each his pleasure on that one.

The darkness of our chambers hasn't been discussed, darker is most definitely better, perhaps not to see residues, but to reduce the growth of algae, and therefore effluent, that's what the slime is, be it from the beneficial microbes, or the plant its self, H2O2 can be used safely as it will not harm beneficials, they will merely metabolize the free radical oxygen.

PF reflectix will darken your chamber & block 98% of the IR if you insulate w/ it, should solve your issues.

Speaking of reflectix, BD, having bought tents, I advise you to simply go buy 1" framing posts, braces or not depending on your screw skills, some stiff sheeting ply wood or otherwise, some reflectix, or other insulation, the spray quick stuff foam works great, but you'll never get it off what you put it on. Basically frame it, put the reflectix and you've got your insulation and reflector, or put your backing up, having filled the inside with whatever insulation, then use flat white w/ extra titanmium dioxide from the art supply store, either way is more affordable and less conspicious, the flat white with the extra td, can actually get your reflectivity into the higher ninety-nine percentile, far less expensive than hammered aluminum and cheaper

BD you will repay your investment quickly, especially with CO2 enrichment, you can run your temps higher with the plants krebs cycle maximized.

Don't know if you guys have seen these ShelfLink, and Blitz 2x4 kits around, but definitely check them out, I did a double take when I saw them, as there's so many times in this hobby you need a sturdy piece of furniture.

foresakenlion · Sep 28, 2011

Actually, I saw this thread someone posted on another forum and they were asserting that Diesel is a natural strain that exists at the tops of the peak of the Hindu-Kush, and that it due to altitude, grows nearly exclusively THC-A. If this is true then a Diesel extract should be mixed with another strain high in CBD, as without the CBD to act as a counter measure sedative, as well as the others to a minor degree as far as I understand, THC pure, can induce psychosis, it was demonstrated in government testing, of course they probably gave them an IV w/ liquid THC but... better safe than sorry. Off topic, but edifying and you've been so informative to me.

foresakenlion · Sep 28, 2011

Guys having a problem finding a pressure switch, have the one that BD mentioned but it's 1/4" and all my other components I've sourced so far are 3/8" inch to this point, found Aquatecs PDF, none of the model numbers sync with anything I actually find being sold, is the PSW 240 comparable to the PSW 100X they define in their PDF? If not, or if you just have the stats of it please share. Otherwise I'm going with BD's suggestion for simplicity.

I highly suggest to those that try to build one of these download yED or another diagramming software, lay out your system, and all the connections, otherwise you'll be a-wash in a see of connections.

r0m30 · Sep 28, 2011

foresakenlion said:
Guys having a problem finding a pressure switch, have the one that BD mentioned but it's 1/4" and all my other components I've sourced so far are 3/8" inch to this point, found Aquatecs PDF, none of the model numbers sync with anything I actually find being sold, is the PSW 240 comparable to the PSW 100X they define in their PDF? If not, or if you just have the stats of it please share. Otherwise I'm going with BD's suggestion for simplicity.

I highly suggest to those that try to build one of these download yED or another diagramming software, lay out your system, and all the connections, otherwise you'll be a-wash in a see of connections.

Short answer - No, the PSW240 is not comparable to the x100.

Long answer......
Yes the PDF is a little confusing. They list them as PSWx40 thru PSWx100. What you need to do is replace the "x" with a "2" for 1/4 inch quick connect fittings and a "3" for 3/8 inch quick connects. The 40-100 is the pressure that they come preset from the factory. So:
PSW240 - 1/4" quick connect preset to 40 PSI (adjustable from 30-60 PSI)
PSW340 - 3/8" quick connect preset to 40 PSI (adjustable from 30-60 PSI)

PSW280 - 1/4" quick connect preset to 80 PSI (adjustable from 70-110 PSI)
PSW380 - 3/8" quick connect preset to 80 PSI (adjustable from 70-110 PSI)

What they don't tell you is that the deadband is preset to ~20PSI. And the pressure range they list is the cut in pressure.

You don's say what pressure you're planning on running but you need to chose the model that fits your desired pressure (the PSWx100 is really hard to find). I'm running a PSW280 and have it adjusted to cut-in @ 100PSI and cut out at 120PSI .

I'd guess you would want either the PSW380 or the PSW3100. As for sources of the PSW380, Freshwater claims to have them (I'll refrain from a rant as TB has had good luck with them) and there are a few sellers on ebay that also have them. I've yet to find anyone that sells either size of the PSWx100.

foresakenlion · Sep 28, 2011

Thank you, I've been at this all day sourcing pieces, diagramming it all out. Alright, could you do me a favor and give me a once over of how to adjust it once I have it? or point me to manual?

This is what I have so far.

#PUMP#

Aquatec 5800 3/8" JG, 120V Cord, M# 5850-2P01-J574, http://www.freshwatersystems.com/p-4350-5800-demand-pump-5-gpm-160psi-38jg-120v-cord.aspx

#PRESSURE SWITCH#

Aquatec PSW

CXA-53, $18, http://www.dwyer-direct.com/shop/itemDetail.do?itm_id=146722&itm_index=50&item=CXA-S3

#ACCUMULATOR#

Amtrol ST-12, SKU #141N43, $59.90, http://www.pexuniverse.com/amtrol-st-12-therm-x-trol-expansion-tank

#PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE#

WATTS Pressure Regulator, 1/4 In FNPT, Plastic, Grainger Item # 1DMK5, $47.60, http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/search.shtml?searchQuery=1DMK5&op=search&Ntt=1DMK5&N=0&sst=subset&typeaheadSearch.x=10&typeaheadSearch.y=9

#PRESSURE GAUGE#

ASHCROFT Panel Mount Gauge, Flange, 2 In, 200 psi, Grainger Item # 5WH23, $13.64, http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/search.shtml?searchQuery=5WH23&op=search&Ntt=5WH23&N=0&sst=subset&typeaheadSearch.x=20&typeaheadSearch.y=9

#RELIEF VALVE#

SS23120PP-3/4 Piston Style Pressure Relief Valve, Polypropylene, 3/4" .5 lbs. TeeJet / Spraying Systems $17.97

http://www.dultmeier.com/products/0.689.1018.2823/6588

ASHCROFT Pressure Gauge, Direct Drive, 2 In, 200 Psi, $10.52

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/pressure-and-vacuum-gauges/pressure-and-vacuum-measuring/test-instruments/ecatalog/N-bdkZ1z0fdbbZ1z0nf4gZ1z0uvwn?Ns=List+Price|0

#SOLENOID(S)#

Electronic Shut-off Solenoid Valve 115 Volt, $28.99

http://www.freshwatersystems.com/p-6013-electronic-shut-off-solenoid-valve-115-volt.aspx

#TIMER#

422 Series / Multi Range Analog Flip Flop Timer / Universal AC/DC Powered, 422A100F10X, $91.00,
http://www.iseincstore.com/422_timer.aspx

#PRE-FILTER#

DMFIT FILTER STRAINER 3/8" X 3/8" PUSH-IN - 200 MESH (60 MIC)

#MISTERS

Ecologics Cloudtops MISTING NOZZLES 1/8" MPT
WITHOUT TEFLON TAPE

I found a QC TEE that goes to MNPT, I was thinking I'll try to find a double ended FMPT, then you could simple strap them to the guide rail, and insert.

I have a question though, do you think that can run 14 misters? Otherwise I was going to go with 10, either way is fine.

Do you see anything missing? I thought the pressure gauge before the accumulator was redundant, can add back if needed, do you need check valves past the pressure regulator?

And I have to say sourcing parts is definitely the hardest part of this.

Oh and to answer your question will be running at 100 psi regulated, I was thinking since I found these JG Y split, I was going to use a single solenoid running to a four way, or a tee depending on the misters. Then run that into the two lines that run the length, should keep the pressure, vs. using a tee in the same place.

r0m30 · Sep 29, 2011

You really should start your own thread and not hijack BD's

foresakenlion said:
Alright, could you do me a favor and give me a once over of how to adjust it once I have it? or point me to manual?

There is an adjustment screw on the switch, it's obvious and simple once you touch one.

foresakenlion said:
#PUMP#

You're going to have to disable the internal pressure switch to run @ 100PSI

foresakenlion said:
#PRESSURE SWITCH#

You say aquatec but the link is to a different switch

Don't see anything else in the other pieces.

foresakenlion said:
I have a question though, do you think that can run 14 misters? Otherwise I was going to go with 10, either way is fine.

It's hard to say for sure but I think it should be able to run 14 misters. There are several pieces of data needed to be sure. Making a few assumptions you system lays out like this:
Accumulator Tank Volume 4.4 Gallons
Accumulator Precharge 98
Pump Cut-in pressure 100
Pump Cut-out pressure 120
Number of misters 14
accumulator draw down .64 gallons
If we guess at a flow of .02GPM for the misters and use a cycle of 1s/2m we get 4.6 hours of mist delivery per accumulator recharge. I don't have the specs on your pump, just the description so I have no idea of the recharge time but if it's close to the description you should be good.

That's the theoretical side, reality is usually much different, the mechanical and electrical delays mean setting your timer to 1 second gives you more than 1 second of mist delivery, how much more is dependent on the components you have chosen so don't expect these numbers to be what you really get.

foresakenlion said:
Do you see anything missing? I thought the pressure gauge before the accumulator was redundant, can add back if needed, do you need check valves past the pressure regulator?

It looks like you have the major pieces. If you aren't missing something you'd be the first

I don't have any check valves but that's not to say that the "correct" way.

foresakenlion said:
And I have to say sourcing parts is definitely the hardest part of this.

Yea, it's lot's of fun, but when you get it all together and it's making mist it feels great.

boodadood · Oct 2, 2011

PetFlora said:
I know, these aren't HPA roots. This is a 18G tote. Atomizer pointed out that it was too small for the mist to expand properly. I moved the plants into a 33G tote, adjusted mist cycle to 2 seconds and root hairs developed all over the existing roots. It was cool to see, and reinforced the relationship between mist times and pod volume.

very nice..would you mind posting a pic or 2 of the root growth in the 33G? just for my own curiosity...

PetFlora said:
Note the Reptile Basics sourced mist heads are on articulating arms that also swivel. I have found this invaluable for making minor positioning adjustments. IMHO I think your heads are positioned too low. hth

i love the articulating arms design..what is the swivel fitting you use?

thanks

BD

high pressure aero diy skid...need help with electrical

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