How Many Times To Flush

chemphlegm

Well-Known Member
Per directions on the bag I add 1oz/gal biweekly and skip my last. I dont increase water frequency, if anything most of mine slow their up take as they finish to my liking. Some could say I flush because I use water for a couple weeks at the end, but still I see fertilizer in the soil harvest day so I know its being fed to the end in my promix.

I've added double but didnt see double positive results, added half and was not as happy as following directions.
It's all about the feed not the flush imo. no amount of flushing/curing will make overfed weed great.
 

SPLFreak808

Well-Known Member
Honestly I have almost zero faith in this strain being a true Chemdawg 91.
it doesn't look like bad genes but you'll never really know without seeing the potential first.

Hope you took clones, run it again & try to learn its feeding habbits a little better, If not then try some easier strains.
 

Daveindiego

Well-Known Member
it doesn't look like bad genes but you'll never really know without seeing the potential first.

Hope you took clones, run it again & try to learn its feeding habbits a little better, If not then try some easier strains.
The flower actually looks really good, I’m anxious to try it. No clone was taken, as this dispensary is nearly walking distance, and the strain readily available.
 

MichiganMedGrower

Well-Known Member
I’m fucking around.

A little bit.

And did you see my current grow log? Over feeding? Now I think I’m underfeeding.

I didn't see it. Link it bud. I will take a look.

If you are going up and down with deficiencies we all get confused on over/under feeding because the plants burn from imbalances as well as too much. They also rely on previous health to recover more than is discussed. The damage can have already happened in veg and not be showing. Then we play catch up through flower.

I have some ugly looking plants full of big buds right now from going back and forth with a tricky calcium deficiency.
 

Daveindiego

Well-Known Member
I didn't see it. Link it bud. I will take a look.

If you are going up and down with deficiencies we all get confused on over/under feeding because the plants burn from imbalances as well as too much. They also rely on previous health to recover more than is discussed. The damage can have already happened in veg and not be showing. Then we play catch up through flower.

I have some ugly looking plants full of big buds right now from going back and forth with a tricky calcium deficiency.
http://rollitup.org/t/daveindiego-grow-3.953628/

As you’ll see, I’m really really trying to get my shit dialed in.
 

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
i flush when i transition from veg to flower just to get all that nitrogen out of the soil. Never flush again after that unless i start to see toxicity issues.
Your not alone in that practice. I don't but, I also use a system of more N for the stretch and no real added P, other then the straight nutrient or pre-built soils for bloom.
Many who use product lines that drop the N lower, and raise the P&K at the flip. Simply use the veg till the stretch is over and then go to the bloom. Helps prevent that early Ptox and the yellowing thing that defines it.
I guess I'm saying that N is still good for the stretch, and for some. Good to hold off the P problems if they push.

Even my organic bloom soils will have N that tapers off after a few weeks. Continues on for the duration but, at lower delivered values.
 

Nutty sKunK

Well-Known Member
Your not alone in that practice. I don't but, I also use a system of more N for the stretch and no real added P, other then the straight nutrient or pre-built soils for bloom.
Many who use product lines that drop the N lower, and raise the P&K at the flip. Simply use the veg till the stretch is over and then go to the bloom. Helps prevent that early Ptox and the yellowing thing that defines it.
I guess I'm saying that N is still good for the stretch, and for some. Good to hold off the P problems if they push.

Even my organic bloom soils will have N that tapers off after a few weeks. Continues on for the duration but, at lower delivered values.
Could you elaborate on that phosphorus toxicity for me? Yellowing thing has me intrigued..

Middle/upper/lower yellowing?

Thanks man
 

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
Could you elaborate on that phosphorus toxicity for me? Yellowing thing has me intrigued..

Middle/upper/lower yellowing?

Thanks man
Here is a pic of a plant with days from harvest coloring. Run long and natural.
20171120_090605.jpg

By far, many nutrient makers will chart poorly for natural blooming. They formulate their line with too much P&K (more so for the P) in bloom. They drop the N down too early and raise the P too high for simply changing over at the flip in lighting times.

This high P, will force the plant to finish, or ripen faster then it really should for reaching the plants potentials.

This early high P use will, cause the plant to yellow out faster (from the bottom up). Like I said, this train of thought is to ripen the plant faster and they say your getting bigger buds that way. Not really! It actually takes away from the plants actual potential yield and quality!

Many of these makers will also have a P&K booster.
These will make for an even more faster ripening of the plant. The P is forcing a finish, before the plant actually matures the budding at a natural rate of growth.

Some, and I mean a very few nutrient lines will have this change over in a better balance and then supply a mid bloom P&K booster that is used till a point and then stopped. Usually at week 4 you start and stop at week 6 with that.

Hesi is a line that does that, and they actually increase the N in the base bloom a bit to help offset the P increase. Also to help out the plant in stretch, when it could actually want or need a tic more N for the stretch.

Plants run properly, will get some natural coloring rather close to the finish. They run longer then many think this way.

A simple solution to this problem with these "common" nutrient lines. Is to simply run the veg for the first 2 weeks into bloom. Then change to 50:50 veg and bloom for a week and then at week 4, simply go all bloom.

Give it a shot and see if that helps. You'll need to run a week or most likely 2 longer. Your yield and final quality will increase.
 

Nutty sKunK

Well-Known Member
Here is a pic of a plant with days from harvest coloring. Run long and natural.
View attachment 4049212

By far, many nutrient makers will chart poorly for natural blooming. They formulate their line with too much P&K (more so for the P) in bloom. They drop the N down too early and raise the P too high for simply changing over at the flip in lighting times.

This high P, will force the plant to finish, or ripen faster then it really should for reaching the plants potentials.

This early high P use will, cause the plant to yellow out faster (from the bottom up). Like I said, this train of thought is to ripen the plant faster and they say your getting bigger buds that way. Not really! It actually takes away from the plants actual potential yield and quality!

Many of these makers will also have a P&K booster.
These will make for an even more faster ripening of the plant. The P is forcing a finish, before the plant actually matures the budding at a natural rate of growth.

Some, and I mean a very few nutrient lines will have this change over in a better balance and then supply a mid bloom P&K booster that is used till a point and then stopped. Usually at week 4 you start and stop at week 6 with that.

Hesi is a line that does that, and they actually increase the N in the base bloom a bit to help offset the P increase. Also to help out the plant in stretch, when it could actually want or need a tic more N for the stretch.

Plants run properly, will get some natural coloring rather close to the finish. They run longer then many think this way.

A simple solution to this problem with these "common" nutrient lines. Is to simply run the veg for the first 2 weeks into bloom. Then change to 50:50 veg and bloom for a week and then at week 4, simply go all bloom.

Give it a shot and see if that helps. You'll need to run a week or most likely 2 longer. Your yield and final quality will increase.

oooh, some tasty knowledge there! Thanks bud.

I have been using Hesi, was perfect for the stretch but these plants are N sensitive and the 3-3-4 ratio is too high. I'm needing a 2-3-4 which is why I bought Advanced Nutrients 3:part feed. Going to start with it 1/2 strength and see where that takes me.

The thing is the plants aren't looking bad. I'm just a perfectionist.

I read something interesting today. The 15 Steps Back. Take 15 steps back, look at your plants, if nothing really pops out don't worry haha :D
 

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
oooh, some tasty knowledge there! Thanks bud.

I have been using Hesi, was perfect for the stretch but these plants are N sensitive and the 3-3-4 ratio is too high. I'm needing a 2-3-4 which is why I bought Advanced Nutrients 3:part feed. Going to start with it 1/2 strength and see where that takes me.

The thing is the plants aren't looking bad. I'm just a perfectionist.

I read something interesting today. The 15 Steps Back. Take 15 steps back, look at your plants, if nothing really pops out don't worry haha :D
I gotta pop more of my Ghost cut OG beans. I've got a pheno that's wildly great but is one mother fucker of a prissy, fussy feeding/conditions bitch.

I need to get the better pheno's running again. I got one that's even better then this pheno quality wise but, she's only a Mg whore and not fussy otherwise...
 

Nutty sKunK

Well-Known Member
I gotta pop more of my Ghost cut OG beans. I've got a pheno that's wildly great but is one mother fucker of a prissy, fussy feeding/conditions bitch.

I need to get the better pheno's running again. I got one that's even better then this pheno quality wise but, she's only a Mg whore and not fussy otherwise...
What were your symptoms when you lacked Mg?

Yeah there always seems to be some phenos that are more delicate.
 
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