IF you are new to LED and want help choosing what to buy, POST HERE!
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Resinhound
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JorgeGonzales
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Unless this forum is responsible for the virtual tsunami of pin heatsinks coming out of China, I'd say nobody here is responsible for anything except buying what is available for cheap from our Asian brothers.
pop22
Well-Known Member
PSUAGRO.
Well-Known Member
id have to agree with this ^^^^^^^after re-reading my post sober..........................RIU, beat me with a penguin carcass.
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Victor6634
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Hi Jorge it seems you are the citizen cob expert I was wondering if you could help me what is the best citizen cob to get.or top bin if they bin I want to build my first cob light and the cree is a little to expensive any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
JorgeGonzales
Well-Known Member
Citizen doesn't bin, it's all min/max/typical.
Here's a rundown I wrote, hard to find, sorry about that. This place is a total mess:
https://www.rollitup.org/t/cheap-and-cheerful-diy-using-citizen-cobs.909460/page-10#post-12731076
This is a collection of tables showing lm/W, efficiency, PPF etc at various currents for different Citizens. All anufacturer provided data:
https://www.rollitup.org/t/cheap-and-cheerful-diy-using-citizen-cobs.909460/page-13#post-12802292
@robincnn and @BOBBY_G both have practical tests against the 3590 and new Veros, but I swear to baby jesus I'm not sure what thread any of them are in. They are also the two to see if you want to actually find any of cobs to buy, unless you get lucky at CDI.
The difficult bit is figuring out heatsinks, holders, optics, and drivers. So, the light. They can be awkward to fit on constant current drivers.
A cheap but awesome build would be 1825s @ $40 each, running two per HLG-240H-C2100, for a 220W light. Active cooled, no optics, very reasonable way to build, less than half the cob cost of a 3590. I'm sure there are other good options if you can sort the logistics. 1812 or 1818 @ 700ma, or 1212 at 1050ma fit well on drivers as well.
Victor6634
Well-Known Member
Thank you for the info
Hybridway
Well-Known Member
Yeah, if diversion from the topic was the goal.
Putting a bunch of words out there like I said them so people will lose sight of the topic & respond with likes. Ha. Not even close. It's all good though!
Victor6634
Well-Known Member
Would this be a good one go get JorgeGonzales CLU048-1812C4-353M2K1
Rahz
Well-Known Member
It seemed relevant.
Explain how HPS with 22 CRI can produce similar GPPW to other lights. (There is a theory about that)
CRI is a standard set against the faithful replication of a list of specific colors against black body radiation at a specific Kelvin temp (not necessarily the Sun). Look it up. If you don't care to, then consider the fact that a candle with a Kelvin rating of 1700 has a CRI of 100. Additionally, taking a specific COB spectrum and adding to the red and blue peaks doesn't make it more Sun-like and doesn't necessarily increase the CRI. Also, there's no proof that the Sun is a standard we should be working towards. A sunlight spectrum would be in the 5000-6000K range with the spectral peak at 450-600nm. Perhaps now you can understand why so many people here hesitate to proclaim any specific spectrum as "the best" and why there is more research to be done.
Hybridway
Well-Known Member
No, I totally get it. But I wasn't suggesting anything or saying much other then a comp. has built a light like you described as being better for horicultural use. No need to get defensive.
Although, if you're asking me to suggest something? I would say, I highly believe that the replication of the sun at high noon w/ added red would out perform a low CRI light source, especially if they both emitted the same photons. But that's only my belief. Not a fact & I will not state it as so & have not.
I will do the side by side though. Very soon. I will put 2, Pro-4's @ 800watts against a 1000watt HPS on my thread for all to see with equal paramitters.
JorgeGonzales
Well-Known Member
What in the actual fuck dude? It's like everything you read gets garbled up and turned into a personal insult, while your own memory rewrites itself and turns you into a blameless angel. It's totally bananas!
Hybridway
Well-Known Member
My first reply was about one sentence. His last on his post I replied to. Go quote it for me please, I don't know how!?
Not that whole spiel of his knowledge that was not relevant to the only point I made. The rest was assumption that I wanna argue over CRI ect... You are twisting as well. Twisting is defensive in my book n that's why I'd say so.
Responding to you is giving you way to much credit as is.
BOBBY_G
Well-Known Member
re citis:
1212 are 36V and a cheap $12 drop in replacement for CXB3070 - they use the same ideal holder series (not exact part number, but same mounting holes). plenty of optics choices
1818 are the best match for replacing CXB3590s as they perform similar and are about $24. these are also CLU048 series so holders and optics are a breeze. the 1818 are ~48-50V chips and while thats different from the typical popular 36V cree, unless youre looking to repurpose old drivers i dont see an issue, there are plenty of drivers out there, esp with the recent expansion of the 240H and 320H constant current drivers. you can run any voltage cobs on these and even mix them up with 36V on the same string , your voltage just steps down in increments of 50V instead of 36. and there are tons and tons of 48V constant voltage options if you prefer those like i do. anything meanwell makes in 36V they make in 48V. .
the clu058 series has the 50V 1825 and the 100V 3618. the former is pretty easy breezy electrically but they are new on the scene and this is where @robincnn and I have been having to scratch our heads a little re: holders and optics... but the solutions are there they just are a little more custom... more to come.
the clu048 series are a no brainer. a rundown:
1212 are 36V and a cheap $12 drop in replacement for CXB3070 - they use the same ideal holder series (not exact part number, but same mounting holes). plenty of optics choices
1818 are the best match for replacing CXB3590s as they perform similar and are about $24. these are also CLU048 series so holders and optics are a breeze. the 1818 are ~48-50V chips and while thats different from the typical popular 36V cree, unless youre looking to repurpose old drivers i dont see an issue, there are plenty of drivers out there, esp with the recent expansion of the 240H and 320H constant current drivers. you can run any voltage cobs on these and even mix them up with 36V on the same string , your voltage just steps down in increments of 50V instead of 36. and there are tons and tons of 48V constant voltage options if you prefer those like i do. anything meanwell makes in 36V they make in 48V. .
the clu058 series has the 50V 1825 and the 100V 3618. the former is pretty easy breezy electrically but they are new on the scene and this is where @robincnn and I have been having to scratch our heads a little re: holders and optics... but the solutions are there they just are a little more custom... more to come.
Rahz
Well-Known Member
The person I was replying to was asking about CRI. You replied to me without being specific about what you were replying to so I covered all the bases... it's useful discussion for this forum anyway.
Moving the peak from 600nm to 630 is useful if it includes more photons per watt in the 580-680 range IMO. Whether a specific nm in that range is more powerful than others when it comes to the question of yield is not something that's been proven, and the reality of HPS yield does throw doubt on the idea that spiking the red makes some meaningful difference in the end. I hesitate to guess except to say it's reasonable to suggest the difference will be small if it's there. There is the question of the Emerson response, but I don't think the study was specific enough to draw conclusions about what ratios are necessary for it to work. Fortunately there are a wide variety of spectrums that can provide excellent results, but the reality is that when it comes to the perfect spectrum we're basically still in the dark.
Hybridway
Well-Known Member
Or the answer is right above our heads! As a grower, from day one, I have tried to replicate an outdoor or natural environment w/ man made enhancements. More Co2, enhance white light, nutrients, soils, temp. & hunmidity. All based around what works in nature, but more of it cuz we can. Its common sense by now.
I feel it only makes sense that natural daylight replication with the R+B spikes in whatever ranges please you is the best our plants & us will get.
This is why white is better then burple. But both used to be made a full spectrum. Thats going to kill 20CRI red HPS bulbs.
Especially if we can find a way to provide that color efficiently. Like we have mixing monos & Cobs.
Side by side is what you need. I gotchu!
You do speak useful information. We all know this. I'm all about listening & learning & providing info where I can. Sometimes or can't! lol!
Just wanna be clear what my point is when I reply w/o it getting twisted. Your theories can easily be tested. Build the lights n grow it Mang. Then you'll know.
Hi there. Having some good time trying to figure out if this would work:
4x CLU048-1812-3,5k
4x MODULED MEGA 13450
4x 50-2204CT COB Holder
HLG-240H-C1050B
Area 0,48 m²
Any advice on reflector/lens will be appreciated!
4x CLU048-1812-3,5k
4x MODULED MEGA 13450
4x 50-2204CT COB Holder
HLG-240H-C1050B
Area 0,48 m²
Any advice on reflector/lens will be appreciated!
pop22
Well-Known Member
I like some of what you post, but your starting to sound like a troll, maybe you need to re-think your approach. Say what you have to say and move on, screw anyone who doesn't like what you say. If you didn't make your point, maybe its because people only hear/read what they want to believe, not necessarily the facts. Or maybe your full of shit.....Are you here to offer information or to just keep stirring the pot? Don't turn into one of those people I mentioned in an earlier post!
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