Is this a russet mite?

SchmoeJoe · Oct 29, 2017

NugHeuser said:
Yeah I already have spinosad and neem oil. I have forbid f4 on its way in the mail. From every single review I've read that forbid is some killer stuff. Do you think rotation of the 3 will be enough?

And with spinosad they say you should wait 5 days between sprays, but would it hurt to spray neem in between those off days atleast for one or two sprays in between so that several days aren't going by without a spray?

Also I have a couple bags of diatomacous earth just sitting around waiting to be used so I'll sprinkle it all over the carpet.

For spider mites you have to spray every three days to disrupt their reproductive cycle. Don't use the forbid. It's good to have in case you end up dealing with broad or russet mites but spinosad or neem will work fine for regular mites as long as you spray three times every third day and be sure to not miss any part of the plants when spraying.

NugHeuser · Oct 29, 2017

SchmoeJoe said:
For spider mites you have to spray every three days to disrupt their reproductive cycle. Don't use the forbid. It's good to have in case you end up dealing with broad or russet mites but spinosad or neem will work fine for regular mites as long as you spray three times every third day and be sure to not miss any part of the plants when spraying.

So with spinosad they say you should wait atleast 5 days before reapplying. So does that mean I should use spino, neem, spino, neem, every 3 days? And I'll probably hit them with the forbid too just to be safe. My stronger scope just came in the mail so I'm going to be scoping for russet mites here after bit but my plants show symptoms of broad/russet mites so I haven't let my guard down yet. I think I just got lucky in finding the spider mite and caught it early because I haven't been able to find any others

Roger A. Shrubber · Oct 29, 2017

forbid is nasty shit thats bad for your plants and bad for you if you harvest too soon after using it. it works, but its harsh, don't use it unless everything else fails.
you can alternate spinosad and neem, but theres really no need. you can use spinosad every three days, it won't hurt your plant, as long as its not a tiny seedling. i personally don't like neem oil, it works as a pesticide, but i'm allergic to it, and it smells like rotten chinese food, which lasts a long time.

hi ryder · Oct 30, 2017

well,that pic is an awfull reminder of when i got the spidermite infestation, it was all new to me at the time so i went through different incantations,after removeing the top soil ad a layer of diamataceus earth , spray under the leaves with a neem solution before lights out this was me gaining on them ,what killed them was a shot of ozone from one of those cheap chinese ozone Generators what they clean there water with.20 quid well spent

SchmoeJoe · Oct 30, 2017

hi ryder said:
well,that pic is an awfull reminder of when i got the spidermite infestation, it was all new to me at the time so i went through different incantations,after removeing the top soil ad a layer of diamataceus earth , spray under the leaves with a neem solution before lights out this was me gaining on them ,what killed them was a shot of ozone from one of those cheap chinese ozone Generators what they clean there water with.20 quid well spent

Treating with neem or spinosad 3 times at 3 day intervals is all it takes to deal with regular mites.

ttystikk · Oct 30, 2017

NugHeuser said:
Lol thanks man. They came out of no where. Same room as my previous grow, no mites then that I knew of. Plants are 3 and a half weeks old and been stressed pretty good for about 2 weeks.
Showing heat stress at the upper 70s, I'm thinking I also have some russet or broad mites but I just haven't discovered them yet. I have a stronger scope showing up in the mail tomorrow so then I'll know for sure.
As far as the spider mites go, I have a buddy that asked for some help about a month or two ago because he was absolutely infested with spider mites and he's an old school dude that dont get on the internet or anything so he had no idea what they were or what to do and I had some spinosad so I tried helping him out. I'm wondering if maybe I tracked some back with me.

This is exactly how they spread.

vncom1234 · Oct 30, 2017

NugHeuser said:
My rh the last two days I've dropped to about 50% because I read that high rh speeds developement of russet/broad mites, which is what I'd been suspecting. But up until then it stayed between 56 to 65% for the most part

like

ttystikk · Oct 30, 2017

NugHeuser said:
My rh the last two days I've dropped to about 50% because I read that high rh speeds developement of russet/broad mites, which is what I'd been suspecting. But up until then it stayed between 56 to 65% for the most part

Lower humidity and higher temperatures encourage spidermite and rust mite infestation, rather than slowing them down.

NugHeuser · Oct 30, 2017

ttystikk said:
Lower humidity and higher temperatures encourage spidermite and rust mite infestation, rather than slowing them down.

I thought I read off growweedeasy or some website like that, that higher rh speeds the development into adulthood of russet/broad mites, is that true to your knowledge?

ttystikk · Oct 30, 2017

NugHeuser said:
I thought I read off growweedeasy or some website like that, that higher rh speeds the development into adulthood of russet/broad mites, is that true to your knowledge?

No. Sapsuckers like it dry.

NugHeuser · Oct 30, 2017

Yeah you're right. I did a bit more reading, I can only get my rh up to about 60% depending on the day and temps as low as 75 during lights on so hopefully that'll help a little.

I've scoped my smaller plants here and there and no sign of russet or broad mites, and besides that I've found one young spider mite. I completely drenched everything with spino yesterday. My bigger plant though I haven't scoped yet with my stronger scope because I just got it in the mail. That one looks like it has mosaic virus big time but the smaller ones don't so tonight I'll scope that and see if I can find anything.

NugHeuser · Oct 30, 2017

Well I've been doing more scoping and I can't find anything else.. I've been looking hard for broad and russet mites around where all the leaf fingers meet, top and bottom sides of the leaf, 60-120x scope. Is that strong enough to make those mites pop out clearly if they're there?

I see hundreds of skinny pointed things all over but for the most part they're all evenly spaced, same size and facing the same way. That's just part of the leaf, like the stomata or something like that right?

A video I saw lastnight showed that russet mites are skinny and worm like, unlike broad mites. So idk if russet mites were the skinny hair/worm like things that I described above. They were pretty big at 120x, I could maybe see a dozen of these "hairs" through the scope if I was holding on one spot, maybe a half dozen, idk they were pretty good sized at 120x.

Do any of you know if what I'm describing is a part of the leaf or if it shouldn't be there?

SchmoeJoe · Oct 30, 2017

NugHeuser said:
Well I've been doing more scoping and I can't find anything else.. I've been looking hard for broad and russet mites around where all the leaf fingers meet, top and bottom sides of the leaf, 60-120x scope. Is that strong enough to make those mites pop out clearly if they're there?

I see hundreds of skinny pointed things all over but for the most part they're all evenly spaced, same size and facing the same way. That's just part of the leaf, like the stomata or something like that right?

A video I saw lastnight showed that russet mites are skinny and worm like, unlike broad mites. So idk if russet mites were the skinny hair/worm like things that I described above. They were pretty big at 120x, I could maybe see a dozen of these "hairs" through the scope if I was holding on one spot, maybe a half dozen, idk they were pretty good sized at 120x.

Do any of you know if what I'm describing is a part of the leaf or if it shouldn't be there?

That's the right size scope. If you were looking at mites at that magnification you'd know it. Between seeing their anatomy clearly and them moving around there would be no question.

NugHeuser · Oct 30, 2017

SchmoeJoe said:
That's the right size scope. If you were looking at nights at that magnification you'd know it. Between seeing their anatomy clearly and them moving around there would be no question.

So the key is to check at lights out?

SchmoeJoe · Oct 30, 2017

NugHeuser said:
So the key is to check at lights out?

Autocorrect strikes again! I corrected the typo.

Bugeye · Oct 30, 2017

Roger A. Shrubber said:
forbid is nasty shit thats bad for your plants and bad for you if you harvest too soon after using it. it works, but its harsh, don't use it unless everything else fails.
you can alternate spinosad and neem, but theres really no need. you can use spinosad every three days, it won't hurt your plant, as long as its not a tiny seedling. i personally don't like neem oil, it works as a pesticide, but i'm allergic to it, and it smells like rotten chinese food, which lasts a long time.

How is Forbid bad for your plants? I've used it once and my plants reacted wonderfully. Bad for your plants is having russet mites!

SchmoeJoe · Oct 30, 2017

Bugeye said:
How is Forbid bad for your plants? I've used it once and my plants reacted wonderfully. Bad for your plants is having russet mites!

Any really aggressive pesticide or fungicide is going to be stressful for the plant. Forbid is just not at all necessary for regular mites. It's not even necessary for russet or broad mites. Dr Zymes works fine and is safe to use up to the day of harvest.

Lightgreen2k · Oct 30, 2017

NugHeuser said:
Well I've been doing more scoping and I can't find anything else.. I've been looking hard for broad and russet mites around where all the leaf fingers meet, top and bottom sides of the leaf, 60-120x scope. Is that strong enough to make those mites pop out clearly if they're there?

I see hundreds of skinny pointed things all over but for the most part they're all evenly spaced, same size and facing the same way. That's just part of the leaf, like the stomata or something like that right?

A video I saw lastnight showed that russet mites are skinny and worm like, unlike broad mites. So idk if russet mites were the skinny hair/worm like things that I described above. They were pretty big at 120x, I could maybe see a dozen of these "hairs" through the scope if I was holding on one spot, maybe a half dozen, idk they were pretty good sized at 120x.

Do any of you know if what I'm describing is a part of the leaf or if it shouldn't be there?

@nug
I had a russet /broadmite infestation over the summer time. I can tell you what works and gets rid of them from the start to the end. Predator mites. They all range in price anywhere from 30-200.

In your case with higher temps

Occidsntalis are the best predator mite to get as it likes higher temps 85-110 and low humidity of 40-50. 5

Persimilis are excellent but like temps of 68 - 81 rh of 60 -85 Rating 4.5

Swirskis/& californicus are more common and are good. too. Rating 4

As for spraying with spinosad this bottle that I have in closet..

It works to a certian degree.
RUSSET mites are like no other type of mite. They came back and I was pulling hairs to I switched IPM methods..

The thing with the predator mites are that they go for the adult , larva and eggs of various mites and thripes. The ones that I have listed. Ladybugs are good for bigger insects.

Lightgreen2k · Oct 30, 2017

No Rec Place Where I am at sprays with Forbid F4 /Eagle 20 / and a few of those sprays.

They all have myclobutanil, that is banned.

If you want to spray your plants, I would go with bioWarFare..

The end. This will irradicate Everything..

SchmoeJoe · Oct 30, 2017

Lightgreen2k said:
No Rec Place Where I am at sprays with Forbid F4 /Eagle 20 / and a few of those sprays.

They all have myclobutanil, that is banned.

If you want to spray your plants, I would go with bioWarFare..

View attachment 4035563 View attachment 4035565

The end. This will irradicate Everything..

I'll definitely have to look into this. I know a few commercial rec growers in my area who use Dr Zymes and have never failed a test with it.

Is this a russet mite?

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