Just an Idea

SOGmonsters

SOGmonsters

Active Member
So I keep reading about underdeveloped root systems causing plants to fail when reaching full yield potential. Though to promote root growth, warmth in required. So my question is, if I were to water my plants with warm water, would this further promote root growth? My last harvest was disappointing, with Dutch passion’s Mazar. I used 3 gal pots, vegged to 12 inches, and flowered with a 600w hps, and I only achieved roughly between 8 to 12 grams per plant.
 
SOGmonsters

SOGmonsters

Active Member
I'm using fox farm and house and garden nutrients. Yeah I'm really trying to get 24 per plant, it just doesn’t seem like the roots are utilizing the soil space available.
 
MaintMan

MaintMan

Well-Known Member
SOGmonsters said:
I'm using fox farm and house and garden nutrients. Yeah I'm really trying to get 24 per plant, it just doesn’t seem like the roots are utilizing the soil space available.
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just a few thoughts, limited root mas in soil can mostly be attributed to overwatering. Do you let your soil dry between waterings( if you don't have one I'd suggest a moisture meter) too much will stunt the root growth. Also are you cutting your soil with anything to help it drain? Something similar to mg or scotts will take as much as a week to dry to the point of watering if no additives are used. You do have drain holes I assume, bc if nit this will deff keep the roots small bc hey will always sense water below and not move downward. Soil compaction causes poor root growth, andthis goes along with adding a drainage additive like pearlite and even rocks at the bottom of the pot.
It's suggested to keep the h20 temp by 68-72 some say a little more in either direction, I can tell you that warm water will promote rootrot, so I wouldent go to high with the temps. I'd look elsware fro the limitedroot growth start with what I mentioned above, that and some lst and you should seen oz per easy
 
SOGmonsters

SOGmonsters

Active Member
MaintMan said:
just a few thoughts, limited root mas in soil can mostly be attributed to overwatering. Do you let your soil dry between waterings( if you don't have one I'd suggest a moisture meter) too much will stunt the root growth. Also are you cutting your soil with anything to help it drain? Something similar to mg or scotts will take as much as a week to dry to the point of watering if no additives are used. You do have drain holes I assume, bc if nit this will deff keep the roots small bc hey will always sense water below and not move downward. Soil compaction causes poor root growth, andthis goes along with adding a drainage additive like pearlite and even rocks at the bottom of the pot.
It's suggested to keep the h20 temp by 68-72 some say a little more in either direction, I can tell you that warm water will promote rootrot, so I wouldent go to high with the temps. I'd look elsware fro the limitedroot growth start with what I mentioned above, that and some lst and you should seen oz per easy
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Yeah I have the moisture meter, drain holes, and perlite. The soil doesn’t seem very compact at all. Can you refer a good lst guide? I've tried it once before and ended up breaking a few plants. The thing about this is the weed that I do get is pretty good, there’s just not much of it.
 
MaintMan

MaintMan

Well-Known Member
Hmm iknow that I've read a couple on here, I'd actually suggest looking in the advanced section and read M blazes guide to fiming follow that and tie down the new growth to allow for more tops and bigger canopy, this will also increase the rootmass. And bigger roots gen means more fruits. Did you mention how longbyou veg for? Are you coming from clone or seed? What distance is your light and have you tries molasses? From the third week of flower to the end... Really helps pack on the size also a product like sensa spray will help to increase flower sites when used at the begining of 12 12.
 
MaintMan

MaintMan

Well-Known Member
O yeah you didn't mention anything about the ph u run or the pome you start and end on, both these factors if not in check can stunt growth as well, bu really, overwatering and under veging is a sure way to get a low yield.
 
SOGmonsters

SOGmonsters

Active Member
I veg up to 12 inches, my PH is pretty normal though I'm in soil. I'm not too sure what "pome” is though.

Awesome, I wasn’t aware of sensei foliar spray. I haven’t been using molasses but I have been using an advanced nutrient product called sweet, which I assume is of similar nature.

I figured out how to properly lst, little research goes a long way, I plan on it with this next batch of 60

My light is a 600w hps cooltube so I generally keep the light about 18 to 24 inches away from the plants
 
MaintMan

MaintMan

Well-Known Member
SOGmonsters said:
I veg up to 12 inches, my PH is pretty normal though I'm in soil. I'm not too sure what "pome” is though.

Awesome, I wasn’t aware of sensei foliar spray. I haven’t been using molasses but I have been using an advanced nutrient product called sweet, which I assume is of similar nature.

I figured out how to properly lst, little research goes a long way, I plan on it with this next batch of 60

My light is a 600w hps cooltube so I generally keep the light about 18 to 24 inches away from the plants
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sorry that was supposed to be ppm but for some reason my iPhones smart txt changes words sometimes and i don't catch it. You say 60 what seeds clones? That's alot of plants for one light I could see 16 -24 dep on size top pots. I still want to know how long u veg? 12 in is arbitrary when it comes to time and strain. You said you are using home and garden nutes but u also have a proper nute like sweet? What exactly is in this h and g nute and what ratio of suggested dose are u using? Time will allow for more roots and that means better yields
 
SOGmonsters

SOGmonsters

Active Member
MaintMan said:
sorry that was supposed to be ppm but for some reason my iPhones smart txt changes words sometimes and i don't catch it. You say 60 what seeds clones? That's alot of plants for one light I could see 16 -24 dep on size top pots. I still want to know how long u veg? 12 in is arbitrary when it comes to time and strain. You said you are using home and garden nutes but u also have a proper nute like sweet? What exactly is in this h and g nute and what ratio of suggested dose are u using? Time will allow for more roots and that means better yields
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This last batch was 20 plants under one 600w hps, this next batch is 60 plants under two 600w hps's.

They are all coming from clone

Veg time is an average of 4 to 5 weeks

This is the list of nutes I use

Soil A 5 - 10ml per G

Soil B 5 - 10ml per G

Liquid Karma - 5ml per G

Sweet - 5ml per G

NUTS 5 - 10ml per G

Hydroplex 2.5 - 5ml per G

Bcuzz Bloom - 2ml per G

B1 Thrive - 2ml per G

Silica Blast - 5ml per G

Root excel - 1ml per G

Cal-mag - 5 - 10 ml per G
 
B

born2killspam

Well-Known Member
What are your day/night temps on average?? How tall do they get come harvest.. And did the plants look to be anything near healthy?? The more you can describe about your setup/experiences the better assistance you can get..
 
MaintMan

MaintMan

Well-Known Member
ok so it looks like you got plenty of supplies, and 60 under 1200 is do-able deff. and it seems that you have a fair idea what you are doing, so aside from the fact that that seems like an awful lot of additives to be coming in at a reasonable ppm.(and if you arent you need to be ppm ing this to see where ur at and you deff need to be ph ing after the nutes(which you still haven't mentioned the ph u run regularly you just said normal)) It was suggested that your strain may be ineffective as far as yield is concerned, this is a real possibility but can be combatted with lst and other training techniques but with 60 plants you will want to plan the training a bit so you dont end up overcrowded in some areas and thin in others...if you can get a 4'x8' canopy going on under those 2 600s u should get that 3 lbs you are looking for...but not if you keep everything the same...u will still get that 8-12 gms....i would really sugest ( but it means a little more work) going to coco. i have a couple pics in my journal of a white rhino started from seed in coco vs one in soil and the results are immeasurable( well not really...like 3x the growth in less time too...i started the soil seeds 2 days befor the coco plant...also i had clones in my old soil mix that would take forever to fill up a 12 oz cup with roots but with clones that have just broken roots out the stem it takes maybe 7-8 days to fill the cup...just a thought...id be willing to bet that if you just made the switch over, you would get double your best results in less time and you can even make more mistakes. though there is the initial investment of coco or hydro specific nutes and setting up for run to waste watering...but check out M blazes pics of the new girls grow journal you will be impressed and a big part of his success is the coco coir(but he is also a man with a plan)
 
B

born2killspam

Well-Known Member
Its possible that addititives dissolve, and recombine with others to form less cunductive compound, thus decreasing the apparent ppm (which is actually calculated via EC)..
 
SOGmonsters

SOGmonsters

Active Member
PH is about a 6...

Maybe I should switch to something simpler... Perhaps Fox farm nutrients? What do you or would you guys use? Give me a list please, this way I can go straight to the hydro shop and buy everything I need.

BTW the hydro grow looks great, I plan on running a smaller hydro setup sometime soon, to give me a well rounded idea of the differences, pro's and con's
 
MaintMan

MaintMan

Well-Known Member
SOGmonsters said:
PH is about a 6...

Maybe I should switch to something simpler... Perhaps Fox farm nutrients? What do you or would you guys use? Give me a list please, this way I can go straight to the hydro shop and buy everything I need.

BTW the hydro grow looks great, I plan on running a smaller hydro setup sometime soon, to give me a well rounded idea of the differences, pro's and con's
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whooo now a straight up 6.0 ph is way to low, i can get away with 6.0 in my coco but i usually run right at 5.7-8, man id say theres a culprit right there...at min you should be at 6.4-5 but since youve had probs with low ph id say you need to go arround 6.8 or straight up 7 with a heavy flush to all your plants and then your nutriented water needs to be consistent with that for proper intake, that should liven things right up...
 
SOGmonsters

SOGmonsters

Active Member
MaintMan said:
whooo now a straight up 6.0 ph is way to low, i can get away with 6.0 in my coco but i usually run right at 5.7-8, man id say theres a culprit right there...at min you should be at 6.4-5 but since youve had probs with low ph id say you need to go arround 6.8 or straight up 7 with a heavy flush to all your plants and then your nutriented water needs to be consistent with that for proper intake, that should liven things right up...
Click to expand...

damnit man really??? haha I'm on it. What nutes do you use??
 
B

born2killspam

Well-Known Member
Careful, you don't want to start a nute war..:) I will say that once you understand growing plants in general, you don't really need anything from the hydro-store that comes with a calculator etc.. Well, perhaps micros if you're growing in coco..
Only things I'd get from most hydro stores is pH down, and H2O2.. Walmart seasonally carries most of what I like..
 
SOGmonsters

SOGmonsters

Active Member
born2killspam said:
Careful, you don't want to start a nute war..:) I will say that once you understand growing plants in general, you don't really need anything from the hydro-store that comes with a calculator etc.. Well, perhaps micros if you're growing in coco..
Only things I'd get from most hydro stores is pH down, and H2O2.. Walmart seasonally carries most of what I like..
Click to expand...

ok, how about this... I'll pm both of you to see what you guys use individually
 
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