Lets debunk AN and other companies products with FACTS.
- Thread starter BROBIE
- Start date
Iv said what I use repeatedly, I buy whatever is on sale and monitor my plants. I dunno what more I can say, do you want me to give you my AN feed schedule? Keep in mind iv only used AN once but il try. I grow in 100% perlite hempy buckets, I veg with ph perfect Sensigrow/voodoo/rhinoskin(protekt is better but I was tryin), I use tap water that has a ph of 9.3, the ph perfect makes my ph 5.9 without changing it, I did have a cal issue almost immediately so I adjusted my feed accordingly and added 1 gram of calcium nitrate to .5 grams of mag sulfate before adding 7 mills of sensi grow a-b. i ramp my ppm up to 800 in veg by week 2 using php, bumb it to 1100 n flower n stay there. I stop feeding when my ppm starts rising n use regular ol tap water til chop so 7-10 days. I veg for 4 weeks, grow under a 600, n harvest between 3-5 OZs a plant, flower 4 at a time in a greenhouse hydro tent I got off ebay from gotham hydro. I mix my own also, that costs me bout $3 a pound but is n no ways convenient, works great but it takes time I dont always have. What more would you like to know?
TonightYou
Well-Known Member
Yea promix is a soilless medium, and again is more closely relates to hydro tha. soil.
ETA WRONG quote. fucking "smart phone"
burgertime2010
Well-Known Member
Easy, do you use coco? How do you know that every additive has no merit? I see no proof that Jacks alone is better than my solution. My results are great time and time again.....
AimAim
Well-Known Member
How long is your penis? You can round up to the next centimeter if you are in a metric country.
churchhaze
Well-Known Member
Is this the Jack's Citrus you're talking about?
http://www.jrpeters.com/Products/Jack-s-Classic/Citrus-FeED.html
Here is why it's not complete and why you shouldn't use it for hydro.
1) It's lacking calcium completely. They expect soil growers to already have limestone in their soil.
2) Most of the nitrogen comes from urea. This means it needs to slowly be converted into nitrate over time by bacteria.
http://www.jrpeters.com/Products/Jack-s-Classic/Citrus-FeED.html
Here is why it's not complete and why you shouldn't use it for hydro.
1) It's lacking calcium completely. They expect soil growers to already have limestone in their soil.
2) Most of the nitrogen comes from urea. This means it needs to slowly be converted into nitrate over time by bacteria.
| Total Nitrogen (N) | 20% |
| 2% Ammoniacal Nitrogen | |
| 3% Nitrate Nitrogen | |
| 15% Urea Nitrogen | |
| Available Phosphate (P[SUB]2[/SUB]O[SUB]5[/SUB]) | 10% |
| Soluble Potash (K[SUB]2[/SUB]O) | 20% |
| Magnesium (Mg) | 1% |
| 1% water soluble magnesium (Mg) | |
| Sulfur (S) | 4.9% |
| Boron (B) | 0.02% |
| Copper (Cu) | 0.05% |
| 0.05% Chelated Copper (Cu) | |
| Iron (Fe) | 0.15% |
| 0.15% Chelated Iron (Fe) | |
| Manganese (Mn) | 0.075% |
| 0.075% Chelated Manganese (Mn) | |
| Molybdenum (Mo) | 0.0009% |
| Zinc (Zn) | 0.05% |
| 0.05% Chelated Zinc (Zn) |
Seriously? I dunno why. U may be the only guy smart enough to know that certain raw ingredients dont mix well, u may be the only guy who knows mixing calcium nitrate n magnesium sulfate concentrates will make gypsum. U also may be the only guy around that knows Dynagro bloom has an issue with precip for some reason, all these strange things seem to happen when u try to make a 1 part. Im a dumb redneck who doesnt know shit, maybe il be smart enough to buy "good" store bought nutes some day but for now il just have to wing it
churchhaze
Well-Known Member
I guess if you're running hempy or coco or anything similar, you could amend your medium with limestone while using Jack's classic or citrus with good results.
Not so much with DWC/aero/no-medium styles.
Not so much with DWC/aero/no-medium styles.
Hey whats the cal/mag/nit ratio of that complete 1 part fert? I must be missing it because I dint see it, maybe im just fucked up, i dunno
Enough said.... Thanks for posting it up. You have used AN one time. You mention jungle juice, but have never used it. Now you post up a concoction and you have no idea what the ratio breakdown is of the nutrient lines you use. You have basic ppm numbers, but not a breakdown to the exact levels. I am glad you get good results, sounds like it works, but this is HARDLY improving on anything. You should punch all those numbers into a decent nutrient calculator to see what you are doing, and at what times. Voodoo juice is ridiculously over priced for what it does. Beneficial microbes, in a one liter bottle for 100+ bucks... No thanks.
str8sativa
Well-Known Member
i will admit to being a previous user of AN Iguana juice, pretty sure there only organic line. i used it for my first real grow and my bud actually came out really good and had some great flavor.
but i moved on years ago for different things. but definitly wont go back specially with the GINO the PEDOPHILE
but i moved on years ago for different things. but definitly wont go back specially with the GINO the PEDOPHILE
I got a SOLID 3" hard, its huge n I get off great
burgertime2010
Well-Known Member
I suppose that is true. The Cal Mag Plus offers trace minerals so I like that aspect of it.
TonightYou
Well-Known Member
Urea is not slow, its better than ammonia nitrate loaded in AN.
here is an exert for you:
Agriculture
More than 90% of world industrial production of urea is destined for use as a nitrogen-release fertilizer. Urea has the highest nitrogen content of all solid nitrogenous fertilizers in common use. Therefore, it has the lowest transportation costs per unit of nitrogen nutrient. The standard crop-nutrient rating (NPK rating) of urea is 46-0-0.
Many soil bacteria possess the enzyme urease, which catalyzes the conversion of the urea molecule to two ammonia molecules and one carbon dioxide molecule, thus urea fertilizers are very rapidly transformed to the ammonium form in soils. Among soil bacteria known to carry urease, some ammonia-oxidizing bacteria (AOB), such as species of Nitrosomonas, are also able to assimilate the carbon dioxide released by the reaction to make biomass via the Calvin Cycle, and harvest energy by oxidizing ammonia (the other product of urease) to nitrite, a process termed nitrification.[11] Nitrite-oxidizing bacteria, especially Nitrobacter, oxidize nitrite to nitrate, which is extremely mobile in soils because of its negative charge
And calcium is not needed in large amounts. simply ammend the coco, its cheaper and more effective if that's your concern.
besides found this nugget of truth:
Coco is buffered using water, enriched with Magnesium and lime.
here is an exert for you:
Agriculture
More than 90% of world industrial production of urea is destined for use as a nitrogen-release fertilizer. Urea has the highest nitrogen content of all solid nitrogenous fertilizers in common use. Therefore, it has the lowest transportation costs per unit of nitrogen nutrient. The standard crop-nutrient rating (NPK rating) of urea is 46-0-0.
Many soil bacteria possess the enzyme urease, which catalyzes the conversion of the urea molecule to two ammonia molecules and one carbon dioxide molecule, thus urea fertilizers are very rapidly transformed to the ammonium form in soils. Among soil bacteria known to carry urease, some ammonia-oxidizing bacteria (AOB), such as species of Nitrosomonas, are also able to assimilate the carbon dioxide released by the reaction to make biomass via the Calvin Cycle, and harvest energy by oxidizing ammonia (the other product of urease) to nitrite, a process termed nitrification.[11] Nitrite-oxidizing bacteria, especially Nitrobacter, oxidize nitrite to nitrate, which is extremely mobile in soils because of its negative charge
And calcium is not needed in large amounts. simply ammend the coco, its cheaper and more effective if that's your concern.
besides found this nugget of truth:
Coco is buffered using water, enriched with Magnesium and lime.
Yep, im a newbie usin AN, iv never done it before. Voodoo cost me $20, most expensive thing I bought. I have used Jungle juice several times but using 2 of the 3 parts with no supplements isnt really using ANs line up. Adding cal, mag, n nit will improve all nute lines, its not a willy nilly move n monitoring ppm will show this.
burgertime2010
Well-Known Member
Interesting. At the risk of such tinkering messing up a pretty dialed system to save a little money, I feel it is prudent to stick with what works. The monetary savings is not significant enough. I get nutrients at 1/2 price anyhow and use them in a manner that saves money.
Wow so you have used AN multiple times or not? I'm having a hard time understanding where you are coming from with all the back and forth posts you have made throughout this thread.. Anyways, I am glad what you are doing works but the bottom line is there are cheaper AND easier ways to grow these plants that will get just as good of results.
churchhaze
Well-Known Member
I never said urea was low in N. My point is that for a true hydroponic setup, there is no bacteria to do all that. For soil, urea is great. That's what makes Miracle Grow so popular for lawns. The urea breaks down slowly over time. In hydro setups, you're supposed to provide nitrates directly, while keeping ammonium/urea to a minimum. In soil, too high a nitrate level actually kills the nitrate producing bacteria while urea feeds it.
You put urea in a DWC and it does nothing good. The extra positive charged ions from ammonium actually works to block out potassium, calcium and magnesium.
Calcium is needed in large amounts. Plants take up half as much calcium as they take in potassium. And if you have to amend the coco, you admit Jack's is not complete. I'm not saying jack's classic is bad, it's just not complete for hydro setups.
The ideal hydroponic nutrient solution provides most of the N as nitrate, and provides calcium through calcium nitrate.
TonightYou
Well-Known Member
Calcium is a secondary need.
It isn't needed in huge quantities, even tap water provides it. besides citrus uses Magnesium Carbonate
It isn't needed in huge quantities, even tap water provides it. besides citrus uses Magnesium Carbonate