Living Organics *Ofiicial Thread*

AliCakes

AliCakes

Well-Known Member
Doc, while what you said about aeroponics is true to a degree, once your soil is balanced - pH rarely fluctuates in organics. Aero you will be adjusting once to twice a day. Pumps make it difficult to keep the water at 68-72F which you really need to do, and flushing can be done to a degree in soil - if you really want to (but it is totally unnecessary in an organic garden as their are no salts to flush).

While I will agree that I never had a bug issue with aeroponics and have had a few battles with them since moving to soil, the other issues have made it well worth it to switch my indoor garden over.
If you are going to do a true aeroponics system, very specific nutes are required - most stuff will clog the fine misters. I wish you the best, but if things don't turn out how you hoped - we will welcome you over here with open arms.
BTW, I come from a strong science background and was lured by the high tech set ups. Although, I was able to get larger yields than I have in organics thus far - my organic product is better and I have found growing to be much more enjoyable.
 
AliCakes

AliCakes

Well-Known Member
Sure John, anyone is welcome to chime in.
I agree with you on both points, and like I said I tried a home made set up early on too. They are awesome in theory, but a lot more difficult in practice. If any of you are dead set on aeroponics, they have many threads for that. We should probably not hijack the Living Organics thread for too long.
 
P

POH Organics

Member
AliCakes said:
Sure John, anyone is welcome to chime in.
I agree with you on both points, and like I said I tried a home made set up early on too. They are awesome in theory, but a lot more difficult in practice. If any of you are dead set on aeroponics, they have many threads for that. We should probably not hijack the Living Organics thread for too long.
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We don't like your kind round here boy.... :lol:
 
Kalyx

Kalyx

Active Member
Organic Aero!!! LMAO. Can you say bio-FILM??? Organics is more about keeping it simple and natural! No pumps and redundant failure points and poor defenseless root masses hanging in the air. Plus with living organics your branches will get fat with flowers and need SUPPORT which aero does not provide unless a trellis is added. Please take a second and research what you are doing... How about flood tables with just compost teas, botanicals and pure water, seems a bit more doable but still apt to go anaerobic and fail before harvest. Cheers, to each his own on the journey!
 
AliCakes

AliCakes

Well-Known Member
I was assuming that Doc was just talking about an organic foliar to add to his aero system. If you understood him better, this would be a major fail. I hope not - for his own sake.
 
Cowboykush

Cowboykush

Well-Known Member
Hope its ok to ask here.I've grown for yrs with good success using only manure from a compost pile. This is the first yr with anything other than bag beans. I want to get the best i can so what else would you suggest to add in. I grow some in 10gal tubs & some in holes that ive dug out & refilled. Any info & help welcome..Thanks
 
DANKSWAG

DANKSWAG

Well-Known Member
Piff83 said:
I think that Living Organics creates the highest quality of cannabis and should be the main choice for growing the sweet herb. I figured since this is a fairly known style of growing that it deserved it's own thread. So any one who is into TLO, or wants to learn more about it, you have come to the right place.
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I am totally on board with TLO... in fact does anyone know exactly why the Rev does not use High P bat guanos in his flowering tea?
Currently I am using 1 tablespoon Neptune's Organic Hydrolyzed Fish Fertilizer per gallon with a 1/2 teaspoon molasses to help in blooming.
 
DANKSWAG

DANKSWAG

Well-Known Member
Cann said:
this method will not get rid of chloramine....IMO the rev would cringe if he heard you say you can water with aerated tap - he explicitly states that starting with good, pure water is one of the most important factors. Water your truly living organic soil once with chloramine laden water and you'll see what I mean. It will kill most of the life in your soil overnight. Don't believe me, then do some more reading into chloramine and how hard it is to dissolve the chemical bond...NH2CL is pretty damn strong and doesn't like to dissipate readily. This is one of the reasons they have started replacing chlorine with chloramine in US water systems....

Sorry to disagree, but on the TLO thread I think we should be having real discussions about the importance of water quality, and I can't just sit and watch misinformation be spread to all. While I agree that you dont need an RO system, you do need to think about removing more than just the chlorine - chloramine is odorless and invisible so there is no real way to determine if it is removed without owning a TDS meter, or knowing 100% the source of your water. Just something for consideration...
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Speaking of water I am on a well my PPM reads just at 50? I do aerate water to remove any possible chlorine, how do I find out if water has chloramine in it?
 
DANKSWAG

DANKSWAG

Well-Known Member
SupraSPL said:
The R/O machines at grocery stores are designed to partially filter water at high speed (gets that largest particles filtered out). We have 100ppm tap water at walmart. The Culligan R/O water comes out about 45ppm. That is a low 55% rejection rate (they claim it tastes better this way). We are trying to filter out pharmaceuticals, pesticides, herbicides, fungicides, heavy metals, chlorine, chloramines, ammonia, persistant organic pollutants (PCBs) and for drinking water we want to filter out or deactivate spores (cysts) bacteria and viruses. 55% rejection does not inspire confidence (Aquafina and many other bottled waters use the same high speed R/O process).

So I bought an undersink R/O for $145 shipped and using the same 100ppm tap water I get a 98% rejection. The water comes out at 2ppm and rises to 4ppm when it gets a chance to start absorbing CO2 from the air. Bought another one for my mom and got the same results.

2ppm water lacks calmag. Depending on your compost/EWC this can create problems when recycling soil. I experimented with dissolving pulverized dolomite lime using the CO2 from holding my breath and using the exhale (80000ppm CO2) which did work but on a large scale it takes too much work and time. It is much easier to use citric acid. Add some pulverized dolomite to the R/O then add powdered citric acid. Shake it up and allow it access to the open air so the CO2 can escape. The ppm will rise at first and as the CO2 escapes the ppm will decline and the pH will rise. If you make a strong batch you have calmag concentrate. Just add a splash of concentrate to every watering and you have an organic solution to water and calmag.

You could use calmag+ or you can add a remineralization filter to your R/O system.
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One small note here, PLEASE DO NOT USE Botanicare CalMag+, it is derived from NITRATES. not good for TLO. Use General Organics CaMg+ for Organic Source of Calcium Magnesium.
 
DANKSWAG

DANKSWAG

Well-Known Member
Kalyx said:
Happy solstice team TLO!

Pure water is a must. Also, water comes out fairly chilled in the winter so pay attention to water temp. Add some warmed ro to at least get to room temp, I just use my tea kettle.

Supra, thanks for the do it yourself camg tip. How long have you used this as your camg source? I am currently looking for a new camg that is easy cheap organic and effective.
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  • One small note here, PLEASE DO NOT USE Botanicare CalMag+, it is derived from NITRATES. not good for TLO. Use General Organics CaMg+ for Organic Source of Calcium Magnesium.​




 
NickNasty

NickNasty

Well-Known Member
DANKSWAG said:
Speaking of water I am on a well my PPM reads just at 50? I do aerate water to remove any possible chlorine, how do I find out if water has chloramine in it?
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if its well water I doubt you have it they tend to use just in the bigger cities right now but if you want to check just get a chlorine test strip if it still says you have chlorine a couple of days after you bubble it its chloramine not chlorine
 
DANKSWAG

DANKSWAG

Well-Known Member
NickNasty said:
if its well water I doubt you have it they tend to use just in the bigger cities right now but if you want to check just get a chlorine test strip if it still says you have chlorine a couple of days after you bubble it its chloramine not chlorine
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Thanks NickNasty, I think I will pick up a kit tonight. I have a constant 5 gallon bucket of my well water being aerated 24/7. I just fill it up after I water to replace what I use.
 
hyroot

hyroot

Well-Known Member
Sodium sulfate which is found in molasses and fish hydroslate will break down chloramine into ammonia and ammonia takes twice as long as chlorine to evaporate. Sodium sulfate will neutralize chlorine and other chems too.
 
AliCakes

AliCakes

Well-Known Member
greenghost420 said:
really? how long for a good breakdown of the chloramine? prob 24hrs im assuming...
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Longer.....half life of chloramine is just over 28 hours. So it takes over a day to cut the amount in half. (The half life of chlorine is just over 2 hours.)

If you are set on using tap water with chloramine in it, I would leave it out for several days and then add a small amount of humic acid to the water before using it. The molecule likes to attach itself to organics. At least this way it's attaching itself to bottled organics and not the ones that have been carefully cultivated to sustain your micro life.
 
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