Methodical, scientific approach to nutrients and nutrient formulations discussion

fatman7574

New Member
magnesium as Mg--11 mg/l
Sodium as NA--25 mg/l

no dice on the bicarbonate
Actively hardened surface water is allegedly water that receives is minerals from surface erosion of minerals. More often than not though it comes from contaminating sources of untraceable sources so they are listed as actively sourced.

Your total hardness is greater than your alkalinity carbonate hardness meaning your alkalinity (buffers) is lower than your non carbonate hardness. In your case your non carbonate hardness is half again larger than your carbonate hardness. This means you have have more non carbonate compounds doing nothing but adding EC.

Then you have some carbonate buffers that can actually benefit your nutrients system. Meaning you have a lot of sodium sulfate and magnesium sulfate in comparison to useful buffers such as magnesium carbonate or calcium bicarbonates.

Your sodium level sucks as typically 30 ppm is recommended as the recommended max for mj but some experts say it is more tolerant and can deal with up to 80 ppm. As very little sodium is used by mj plants the sodium will accumulate quiet rapidly.

You could use some more calcium, but do not use a cal-mag formula as you do not need more magnesium beyond what most nutrients supply given that you have magnesium sulfate in your tap water already. It is not unlikely that you have or will have problems with pH drops so if you use a pH up try to use one that also supplies a carbonate buffer.

I don't remember if you are a hydroponic grower or a soil grower so most of what I have written in this reply is in regards to hydroponics. If it were me I would definitely not say the water was great or even good.

That sodium level really sucks. To be honest I would say the water is contaminated with road salt and it is very unlikely that the calcium or the magnesium is from actively weathering mineral deposits unless you have open formations of dolomitic limestone in your area.

Your water is soft enough that laundering should be easy as well as shampooing etc. For most people that seems to be the indication of good tap water.
 

clydefrog

Well-Known Member
i reckon i'll have to break down and get an ro system in the next couple months. the reason they give for adding so much EC around here is to actively coat the inside of our water pipes to prevent lead leaching from older homes.

isn't that thoughtful of them?

the original question was if i add some calcium nitrate to boost the nitrogen content of that Dynagro i've got will it push my calcium too high and i guess the short answer is no.

thanks.
 

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
the original question was if i add some calcium nitrate to boost the nitrogen content of that Dynagro i've got will it push my calcium too high and i guess the short answer is no.

thanks.
Dyna-Gro foods have Ca. If you have a question related to their products, you should call them up. If you have Ca in the 80 ppm range, you're OK. My analysis shows 107 which is in the "Acceptable" range.

Brita does a great job of removing carbonates and bicarbs.

UB
 

riddleme

Well-Known Member
Dyna-Gro foods have Ca. If you have a question related to their products, you should call them up. If you have Ca in the 80 ppm range, you're OK. My analysis shows 107 which is in the "Acceptable" range.

Brita does a great job of removing carbonates and bicarbs.

UB
I use Brita and DynaGro :bigjoint:

Brita filter drops the ph of my tap water 1 point every time
 

YouGrowBoy

Well-Known Member
Fatman, You are obviously very knowledgeable and experienced with this subject and how nutrients interact with each other and plants. My questions are about water/nute add back and flushing with a recirculating DWC. If this is not the right place to discuss can you point me to your previous posts on the subject?

Regarding add back/nute change I see posts ranging from "you must change reservoir every week" to "I use the same res. throughout the whole grow and only add back water and new nutes when needed" What would be your rec for a 25gl system that feeds 3 plants?

There are also 2 schools of thought on flushing, some say the plants need all the nutrients till the very end and any chemical/bad taste is due to improper curing and others say you must flush with RO water for at least 5 days.

Your POV on these subjects would be very helpful.

YGB
 

fatman7574

New Member
Brita filters are basically just miniature DI filters, meaning they have a very limited capacity. When the calcium is removed from carbonates the carbon dioxide is left behind as the resins in the filters remove the salts not gases, The left behind CO2 leads to a reduction in the pH. If the pH is below 7 then time or aeration will likely raise the pH up to nearer 7. Brita like a DI filter should be considered a finishing filter not a primary filter due to its high cost and limited overall removal capacity. That is why a DI filter usually follows a RO filter, not proceeds. Dyna Gro Foliage Pro has a calcium level of 200 ppm. This is traditionally considered enough by most people with most MJ specific formulas, but it tends to leave many hydroponic growers owers that use Dyna Gro foliage Pro doing a lot of pH adjustments during budding as Dyna Gro uses a larger amount of ammonical nitrogen than most hydroponic nutrient manufacturers. The Foliage Pro is has almost 33% of its total nitrogen as ammonical nitrogen where most manafacturers use about 3 to 6%. This does provide an adavantage as the plants during low light conditions such as the clone and seddling stage and the thick bud satage are not as able to take up nitrates but it causes problem also.

The problem: The recommended maximum ammonical nitrogen for hydroponics is 15%. When the mj plant is budding it takes up a lot of ammonical nitrogen using the roots to release H+ ions to maintain their inner ionic charge neutrality. This causes a constant drop in pH if there is not a large carbonate level the pH drops daily are quite large. Extra calcium decreases the daily drop size of the pH. Dyna Gro products are in general formulated for soil grows rather than inert media hydro.
 

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
Brita filters are basically just miniature DI filters, meaning they have a very limited capacity. When the calcium is removed from carbonates the carbon dioxide is left behind as the resins in the filters remove the salts not gases, The left behind CO2 leads to a reduction in the pH.
3 months later and my Brita filter is still doing pretty much what it did when new.

.....as Dyna Gro uses a larger amount of ammonical nitrogen than most hydroponic nutrient manufacturers. The Foliage Pro is has almost 33% of its total nitrogen as ammonical nitrogen.....
The N sources comprise 32% ammoniacal with the remainder, 68%, being nitrate. http://www.dyna-gro.com/

The problem:.... Dyna Gro products are in general formulated for soil grows rather than inert media hydro.
An infomercial is in order:

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Our Roots are in Hydroponics [/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif] For more than 20 years Dyna-Gro Nutrition Solutions have excelled in the hydroponics industry as the sole source of nutrition for fast production of flowers, vegetables and herbs. Dyna-Gro Nutrition Solutions were developed from research in the science of hydroponics where plants must be supplied with all of their essential nutrients in solution.[/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]
[/FONT]

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]T[/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]he only difference between growing hydroponically and growing in soil is time. In time, even the best soil will become depleted as the plant takes up available nutrients. While adding incomplete fertilizers may keep your plants alive, only a balanced source of all essential elements will produce optimum plant growth and health. [/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]
W
[/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]ith Dyna-Gro, there is no need to source multiple components, weigh, dissolve and mix in order to come up with a complete nutrient solution. Simply dilute the appropriate Dyna-Gro formula to the desired concentration with the assurance that all macro and micro nutrients are present in the proper ratios.[/FONT]

A food like Dyna-Gro that has 16 essential elements is NOT formulated for soil. Guess GH or the other "popular" foods that contain less than 16 elements whether solo or combined with the usual rip off supplements are formulated for soil too?

Foods designed for soil grows consist of about 10 elements knowing that the soil (should) contain the other elements.

UB
 

fatman7574

New Member
Sorry Ben but you are wrong. What you just posted doesn't back up your opinion or back up your opinion about Dyna-Gro formulations. They simply imply that they are basing their formulations on the fact that nothing in the way of nutrients is considered being supplied by the soil when they are formulating their fertilizers. They say that over time any soil cam be depleted of some nutrients so they are supplying all of them. They are implying that they have studied hydroponics over the years so know all the elements needed by the plants so they supply all these elements in all their products because soil can become depleted over time.

Their advertising can be a bit deceiving but careful reading of their marketing hype just means they consider the media no matter what as being nutritionally inert. This is simply away of saying they consider their fertilizer formulations as universal. It does not really work that way in reality. Close as they added chloro ine to kill all soil or water borne beneficial bacteria, enzymes and such but still not the same.

You seem to be trying to say a fertilizer that is not designed for growing outdoors in a mineral powder soil (with natural humus is not a soil fertilizer but a hydroponic fertilizer. That just isn't the case anymore with quality formulated nutrients. Then you seem to be disregarding quality indoor soil fertilizers that nearly always contain nearly all nutrients that are supplied in hydroponic formulas. They typically only leave out the calcium and sulfur as most people add a little dolomitic lime to their potting soils. A few for some strange reason leave out sulfur. Go figure. Therefore what you just wrote is either wrong or an unsubstantiated opinion at the most.

Better said is a formula that has over 15% nitrogen as ammoniacal nitrogen is not a principally hydroponic formula for a recirculating hydroponic system no matter what the manufacturers marketers seem to say. For a drain to waste the butt load of ammoniacal nitrogen does not matter but it definitely is far from a recommended maximum for hydroponics. Say what ever you wish about the total number of elements Ben but too much ammoniacal nitrogen is too much ammoniacal nitrogen. It is nice that you have you opinions set in concrete if they work for you Ben but they do not necessarily care much weight. I have been formulating and mixing both soil and hydroponic formulations for several decades and use 12 elements for hydroponics and thirteen elements for soil not counting the ammoniac nitrogen. Providing the extra elements to a soil grow is just consider waste full IF they are already present through a separate addition.

I think if you checked with Dyna-Gro you would find that two of the three extra "elements" (sodium, cobalt) that are in the formulation are not intentionally added as nutrients but are trace contaminants or a result of using a cheaper fertilizer salt such as sodium molybdate rather than ammonium molybdate as a source of molybdenum. The third, chlorine is not a nutrient but an oxidizer. If the said chloride then it would be a result of using calcium chloride or potassium chloride fertilizers salts but chlorine would have had to have been added as something like adding sodium hypochlorite. This isn't even a sign that the Foliage-Pro is hydroponic and not soil fertilizer as all their fertilizers that are soluble fertilizers have chlorine.

If you just read the Dyna -Gro adds and look at the types you can plainly see that they consider the foods as water soluble fertilizers to use for both soil and hydro and even foliar with The Foliage Pro. Non of their formulations are strictly Hydro and nowhere does it even hint that they make a formulation that is exclusively formulated for just hydro. The fact that the lowest ammoniacal percentage of any of their formulations (Bloom 3-12-16) contains over 30% of its nitrogen as ammoniacal nitrogen clearly indicates all the formulations are principally designed for plants growing in a soil media. Will the Foliage-Pro work well with MJ grows. Yes it will work very well, but in recirculating hydroponic grows there will be a daily low pH problem during most of the budding cycle do to the extremely high levels of ammoniacal nitrogen in all their formulations. Depending on lighting intensities pH might even be a daily problem during the veg cycle.

The typical minerals and metal salts in both soil and hydro are:

Major nutrients
1) Nitrogen (with hydroponics no separate ammoniacal nitrogen is usually added as sufficient amounts are added as a result of adding the other purposely added fertilizers and salts)
2) Phosphorus
3) Potassium

Secondary Nutrients
4) Calcium
5) Magnesium
6) Sulfur

Trace nutrients
7) Iron
8) Manganese
9) Zinc
10) Boron
11) Copper
12) Molybdenum

It should be noted, that among the 110 or so known elements, that they believe that the following elements, many more are likely to be implicated in plant growth. Nickel, cobalt, chromium, titanium, selenium, lithium and numerous others have been reported to have some function in some species of plants, and many certainly have roles in animal and human nutrition.


Some manufacturers leave many things out of for formulations for soil grows. Most commonly calcium and magnesium is left out. But that is not because it is already present in soil but because it is added as dolomitic lime powder. Many add no trace elements saying they are present already in the soil. maybe that is true in minerals soils full of humus. There are things in such soils that work as natural chelate's that can make these the metals available to the roots. However, Dyna-Gro formulations kill these things my adding chlorine so they add the complete line of trace nutrients available. Then consider a great percentage of growers use a media that is mainly peat moss. this does not have the trace Crow that a mineral soil contains so Dyna-Gro supplies all trace elements for these soil grows.

So the easiest way to describe Dyna-Gro products is that they seem to be designed principally for soil media grows, but some will work with hydro-ponics in inert medias with careful watching of the pH. with soil grow this will not be an issue nor will it be an issue with drain to waste hydro.

It would truly be nice for those hydro growers using a nutrient recirculation system of feeding if they made the same Foliage-Pro with about 3 to 5% percent ammoniacal nitrogen rather than 32%.



About the only thing that keeps me from saying all the Dyna-Gro products are only formulated for soils grows is they do not contain urea so this shows that they are with intent trying to make a universal product where all nutrients are supplied by their soluble fertilizers. Basically it is a product where they are trying to say "you can have your cake and eat it too."
 

fatman7574

New Member
So i just started the ladys into flower, day 6. I just picked up some epsom salt to add some magnesium to my reservoir.

Anybody familiar with this? What measurements would you recommend?
You want to maintain about 90 to 100 ppm magnesium during budding if running a high EC of 2.6 If there is no magnesium sulfate in your nutrients that would mean adding 3.6 grams per gallon for 92 ppm. That would mean 2.7 grams for an EC of 2 for 92 ppm. Your total calcium ppm should be double your magnesium ppm.

Cal-Mag from Botanicare is 200 ppm nitrogen, 320 ppm calcium, 120 ppm magnesium and 10 ppm iron chelate. They recommend that it be used 1/4 strength each time the reservoir is changed out. So this would mean 30 ppm of magnesium or 1.2 grams per gallon for 30 ppm on top of what is already supplied my your regular fertilizer. When it comes to a system where you are not changing your reservoir regularly but are instead adding fertilizer as needed it is would have to be proportional to what ever your adding. Ie if it takes 15 ml per gallon to make fresh nutrients then add 1.2 grams of magnesium sulfate to this, or (1.2/15) = 0.08 grams of mag sulfate per every ml of regular fertilizer added. If it takes 30 ml per gallon then add (1.2/30)= 0.04 grams of mag sulfate per each 30 ml added. ie Just replace the second number in the equation for the amount of nutrients it takes per gallon of fresh nutrients. and this will tell you how much mag sulfate to add per ml of fertilizer added at each top off with fertilizer.

If you wish to mix up some Cal-mag here is the recipe for 1 gallon of 100X concentrate. The calcium nitrate should be available at any green house supply store or any good hydro store. The iron chelate you can usually just leave it out. Typically it is sold in 5 pound bags. for around $50. It takes along time to go through 5 pounds. ie about 60 gallons of cal-mag 100x concentrate or about 300 gallons of a 100X concentrate of a regular full nutrient formula.

ppms
Nitrogen 200
Magnesium 120
Calcium 259
Sulfur 160
Iron 10.00

Grams
Calcium Nitrate 488.9
Magnesium Sulfate 464.0
Iron Chelate 38.57

Volume of Stock Solutions 1 gallon

Dilution Rate 100
 

fatman7574

New Member
So i just started the ladys into flower, day 6. I just picked up some epsom salt to add some magnesium to my reservoir.

Anybody familiar with this? What measurements would you recommend?
You want to maintain about 90 to 100 ppm magnesium during budding if running a high EC of 2.6 If there is no magnesium sulfate in your nutrients that would mean adding 3.6 grams per gallon for 92 ppm. That would mean 2.7 grams for an EC of 2 for 92 ppm. Your total calcium ppm should be double your magnesium ppm.

Cal-Mag from Botanicare is 200 ppm nitrogen, 320 ppm calcium, 120 ppm magnesium and 10 ppm iron chelate. They recommend that it be used 1/4 strength each time the reservoir is changed out. So this would mean 30 ppm of magnesium or 1.2 grams per gallon for 30 ppm on top of what is already supplied my your regular fertilizer. When it comes to a system where you are not changing your reservoir regularly but are instead adding fertilizer as needed it is would have to be proportional to what ever your adding. Ie if it takes 15 ml per gallon to make fresh nutrients then add 1.2 grams of magnesium sulfate to this, or (1.2/15) = 0.08 grams of mag sulfate per every ml of regular fertilizer added. If it takes 30 ml per gallon then add (1.2/30)= 0.04 grams of mag sulfate per each 30 ml added. ie Just replace the second number in the equation for the amount of nutrients it takes per gallon of fresh nutrients. and this will tell you how much mag sulfate to add per ml of fertilizer added at each top off with fertilizer.

If you wish to mix up some Cal-mag here is the recipe for 1 gallon of 100X concentrate. The calcium nitrate should be available at any green house supply store or any good hydro store. The iron chelate you can usually just leave it out. Typically it is sold in 5 pound bags. for around $50. It takes along time to go through 5 pounds. ie about 60 gallons of cal-mag 100x concentrate or about 300 gallons of a 100X concentrate of a regular full nutrient formula.


Generic Cal-Mag

ppms
Nitrogen 200
Magnesium 120
Calcium 259
Sulfur 160
Iron 10.00

Grams
Calcium Nitrate 488.9
Magnesium Sulfate 464.0
Iron Chelate 38.57

Volume of Stock Solutions 1 gallon

Dilution Rate 100

This recommended application rate is normally sufficient to make for up any deficiencies in most soil or hydroponic formulas.
**NOTE- In hydroponics, iron falls out of the solution relatively fast due to use of magnetically driven pumps without grounding probes and high levels of dissolved oxygen from air stones and pumps.

http://www.hydrotechhydroponics.com/sandbox/index.php/Mixing-Directions/botanicare-cal-mag-plus.html

Botanicare's retail price for the Cal-Mag is $21 per liter. Cost to mix up buying materials at retail prices about $4 per gallon. Go figure! There cost for ingrediants are likely 20% so 80 cents per gallon. Doing the math means at a dollar a gallon and approx 3.8 liters per gallon that means 80/3.8 )= 21.05 cents per liter. Wow, it is amazing the money MJ nutrient manafacturers milk out of MJ growers.
 

bran1981

Well-Known Member
Hey fatman and ben, for us guys that don't know all the stuff that you are saying in this forum what would be a good one part with no additives full fert. to use in a hydroponic flood and drain system out of all the stuff on the shelves? Just to say tho, I have a lot of respect for you guys for all the stuff you have both shared on this forum, I just have a hard time retaining a lot of the stuff lol. +rep for you guys.
 
I'm not fatman or ben but I do flood and drain and used floranova and it was great but now I use dry salts. Floranova is really easy. Other one parts CNS17 or any of em would work. its probably better to use multiple fertilizers in conjunction with one another than to use a one part but its up to you and your steez
 

bran1981

Well-Known Member
I'm not fatman or ben but I do flood and drain and used floranova and it was great but now I use dry salts. Floranova is really easy. Other one parts CNS17 or any of em would work. its probably better to use multiple fertilizers in conjunction with one another than to use a one part but its up to you and your steez
I agree, but it seems that every time everything goes great till I get into flowering for some reason. Like know, everything was going really good till about the forth week and it's like growth just stoped. Getting frustrated.
 

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
Fatman, you can make this as confusing as you wish. Me thinks there's enough of that to go around these parts with all the 2-3 part and supplements biz.

Upon inspection of foods designed for soil, you'll find about 8-10 elements no matter the brand. For an inert medium it should be 15-16, taking into account your water source.

Yes, a hydro food can be used in soil, all depends on the soil's short and long term charge, plant needs, leaching practices, etc. The following is an example of me using Dyna-Gro exclusively on soil, whereby the soil's nutrient charge was gone. This was only an experimental plant which was later destroyed, but that's beside my point. Notice the tiny, first juvenile leaves still attached to the lower part of the plant? That means I have my nutrition ditty spot on.




Hey fatman and ben, for us guys that don't know all the stuff that you are saying in this forum what would be a good one part with no additives full fert.
I gave you a link to Dyna-Gro. Look at their foods, they are one part and the application amounts are simply given, around 1/2 tsp/gallon.

UB
 

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Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
I agree, but it seems that every time everything goes great till I get into flowering for some reason. Like know, everything was going really good till about the forth week and it's like growth just stoped. Getting frustrated.
It happens to everybody. Why? Because folks don't take care of the leaves, instead relying on the bloom foods hype which induce leaf drop. If I had to guess, you switched to a low N food about the first - second week after flipping the 12/12 switch. Did you not?

BTW, see my (green) sig line. ;)

UB
 

shnkrmn

Well-Known Member
It happens to everybody. Why? Because folks don't take care of the leaves, instead relying on the bloom foods hype which induce leaf drop. If I had to guess, you switched to a low N food about the first - second week after flipping the 12/12 switch. Did you not?

BTW, see my (green) sig line. ;)

UB
Uncle Ben, my plants have seen a complete turn around since I switched ferts to a complete nutrient. I have plants a couple weeks into flower in hempy, in soil and in straight hydro. They are all being fed Foliage Pro supplemented with a low dose of cal-mag (I use RO, my tap water is near 400 ppm) and now I'm introducing some FF soluble bloom booster which is 0-50-30 at 1/2 strength. Do you think that's a mistake? You've said you've gone all the way through flowering with nothing but Foliage Pro. My foliage is fantastic, no yellowing, no leaf drop, no spotting, my plants look like a fashion shoot compared to my previous efforts. But I would like to see more aggressive bud development than I have so far. I've got lots of clusters of flowers but I've seen faster bulking up in past grows. Is N suppressing flowering? A visit to my journal would be most welcome.:mrgreen:
 
Uncle Ben, my plants have seen a complete turn around since I switched ferts to a complete nutrient. I have plants a couple weeks into flower in hempy, in soil and in straight hydro. They are all being fed Foliage Pro supplemented with a low dose of cal-mag (I use RO, my tap water is near 400 ppm) and now I'm introducing some FF soluble bloom booster which is 0-50-30 at 1/2 strength. Do you think that's a mistake? You've said you've gone all the way through flowering with nothing but Foliage Pro. My foliage is fantastic, no yellowing, no leaf drop, no spotting, my plants look like a fashion shoot compared to my previous efforts. But I would like to see more aggressive bud development than I have so far. I've got lots of clusters of flowers but I've seen faster bulking up in past grows. Is N suppressing flowering? A visit to my journal would be most welcome.:mrgreen:
too much phosphate
 
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