New vert grow, could use some input please

Craig1969SS

Craig1969SS

Well-Known Member
I tried tent growing in my growing room and couldn't manage the micro environment. Looks like you are prepared. I've heard you should have positive pressure..i.e. Slightly more air going in than escaping. The walls should bulge and bounce back when you push them in. You heard of this before?
 
gr865

gr865

Well-Known Member
Craig1969SS said:
I tried tent growing in my growing room and couldn't manage the micro environment. Looks like you are prepared. I've heard you should have positive pressure..i.e. Slightly more air going in than escaping. The walls should bulge and bounce back when you push them in. You heard of this before?
Click to expand...
Wow, No I havent heard this, not sure how to accomplish this. Suction fan should remove and replace air two to three times a minute, so would have to have a fan blowing into the tent at a higher volume than the fan on the filter.
 
gr865

gr865

Well-Known Member
Wow, just reviewed the start of the thread and man has there been many changes in the plans.
No more cabinet, built screens twice to get them where I want them, gone to a tent, got new light and other shit, beans popped and growing in red solo's.
Should I grow in the solo's till good root system then plant into one gallon pots or just go from solo's to my final pot size of 2 gallon smart pots?
GR
 
Craig1969SS

Craig1969SS

Well-Known Member
Yeah normally there's a vent on or near the top of the tent. Pushing air in at a higher volume than can escape will give you pos pressure. I'd grow them 10" or so then put em in a 2 gallon. No sense in transplanting twice. Going from a solo to a 2 gal they will explode in a weeks time. Are u using coco or soil I forgot.
 
gr865

gr865

Well-Known Member
Craig1969SS said:
Yeah normally there's a vent on or near the top of the tent. Pushing air in at a higher volume than can escape will give you pos pressure. I'd grow them 10" or so then put em in a 2 gallon. No sense in transplanting twice. Going from a solo to a 2 gal they will explode in a weeks time. Are u using coco or soil I forgot.
Click to expand...
Ok so now I am real confused, If I have more are going in than I am taking out negates the charcoal filter, I mean some to be taken by the filter but also some will be escaping the tent.

Yes I am growing in Canna coco.
That's good news on the transplant, hate transplanting, normally I go directly into coco from sprout.
Thanks man for your advice!
GR
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
Craig1969SS said:
I tried tent growing in my growing room and couldn't manage the micro environment. Looks like you are prepared. I've heard you should have positive pressure..i.e. Slightly more air going in than escaping. The walls should bulge and bounce back when you push them in. You heard of this before?
Click to expand...
That's exactly backwards. Cramming more air in than is being exhausted just makes the 'ventilation' air warmer. Suck from the top instead and stop trying to push cool air, cuz it's a fool's errand.
 
gr865

gr865

Well-Known Member
My plan is to pull air into the tent using a 6" tube running from a 375 cu ft room with a 5,000 BTU A/C. This will be pull through a 6" charcoal filter with a 4" vortex fan I have a 6" also but thinking that's too much. I figured out that at a tent size of 104 cu ft that I should be able to max air exchange at 3 to 4 time per minute, and I can dial the exhaust down as necessary. I will have it in the tent a few days before I put the plants in, so I will be able to check temps and adjust the fan as needed. I don't think the plant will be ready for the move to the tent for a few more weeks.
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
gr865 said:
My plan is to pull air into the tent using a 6" tube running from a 375 cu ft room with a 5,000 BTU A/C. This will be pull through a 6" charcoal filter with a 4" vortex fan I have a 6" also but thinking that's too much. I figured out that at a tent size of 104 cu ft that I should be able to max air exchange at 3 to 4 time per minute, and I can dial the exhaust down as necessary. I will have it in the tent a few days before I put the plants in, so I will be able to check temps and adjust the fan as needed. I don't think the plant will be ready for the move to the tent for a few more weeks.
Click to expand...
You can't 'pull air into'; that's PUSHING and it heats up the air you're trying to use to ventilate and cool with.

Pull OUT of the tent- from the top- and don't worry so much about how air gets in it, there should be vent flaps around the bottom of the tent anyway, those will admit air.
 
PKHydro

PKHydro

Well-Known Member
Listen to @ttystikk

In a tent there are flaps on the bottom that allow for a passive intake of air. Set up your charcoal filter and fan up top, sucking the hot air out. As the hot air is pulled out, cool air will automatically be pulled into the tent through the bottom flaps.
 
Evil-Mobo

Evil-Mobo

Well-Known Member
Evil-Mobo said:
Look up top

View attachment 3720311

And then I leave a flap open for air to come in and no issues.
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I showed the picture for the filter/exhaust setup.

That plant got ill outside and I brought her in to see if I could save her. She's an auto and looks like this, it was a project I named project dead. She got burnt by a UV bulb test when brought inside too poor thing has been through hell and still chucking along

IMG_20160626_174623.jpg IMG_20160626_174634.jpg
 
pinner420

pinner420

Well-Known Member
ttystikk said:
So what actual nutrient is deficient? Because calmag isn't a specific nutrient and I'm willing to bet you don't even know its main component.
Click to expand...
Belts and braces at 1ml/l .. if I had to shoot with a rifle and not a shotgun I'd lay money on mag. Bad bet you owe me a vip lap dance....
Calmag..
  • Calcium Nitrate: 170.0g
  • Magnesium Nitrate: 117.7g
  • Fe-chelated 18%: 5.000g
  • Mn-chelated 18%: 2.777g
  • Zn-chelated 20%: 2.500g
 
DesertGrow89

DesertGrow89

Well-Known Member
Yes please elaborate on what a "calmag diff" is? I think it's a bit difficult to merely look at a photo taken so far away and just decide what the problem is without knowing much about his feeding regime and pH levels, etc. It is possible the plant is either deficient in Ca or Mg, but also remember too much Ca can cause Mg to lockout and appear "deficient" and vice versa. Nutrient antagonisms are corrected by reducing the nutrient in excess rather than adding more of the nutrient that appears deficient.
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
pinner420 said:
Belts and braces at 1ml/l .. if I had to shoot with a rifle and not a shotgun I'd lay money on mag. Bad bet you owe me a vip lap dance....
Calmag..
  • Calcium Nitrate: 170.0g
  • Magnesium Nitrate: 117.7g
  • Fe-chelated 18%: 5.000g
  • Mn-chelated 18%: 2.777g
  • Zn-chelated 20%: 2.500g
Click to expand...
Lol, even that analysis hides the truth; the main component is NITROGEN, hidden in plain sight as calcium NITRATE and mag NITRATE.

So the reason why adding calmag to your plants greens them up has everything to do with the nitrogen you're adding. The other stuff is just there to reduce additional deficiencies...

...and confuse the customer.
 
pinner420

pinner420

Well-Known Member
A one bottle solution and yes should of asked which brand of nutes. Since most engineer calcium as their back bone I would say more towards fe and mag. I personally roll my left turning aminos in first so the calcium is mobilized (ominas raw) canna aqua caries the rest of the load with out delay.
 
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