night light?
- Thread starter smkpt
- Start date
MightyBuddha
Well-Known Member
It's a snazzy term for a piece of metal with air between each layer so it helps to dissipate the heat. In this case you would take a soldiering iron and remove the parts down to the ceramic core. Next you would take some sheet aluminum or some metal you can manipulate. And curl around the soldiering iron into a bigger and bigger circle. Then you could do some testing and monitoring and figure out if it needs to run non-stop or for a few hours, etc.
I will draw a little doodle in paint and post.. give me 5 mins.
I will draw a little doodle in paint and post.. give me 5 mins.
MightyBuddha
Well-Known Member
FYI... this is not drawn to scale. hahahha
MightyBuddha
Well-Known Member
Thanks bro... best of luck with the grow. Do you have a journal? You should add a link to it in your sig.
Al B. Fuct
once had a dog named
First of all, we're talking about a heat sink, not a heat sync.
A heat sink is a mass of metal or other thermally conductive material, even water, which accepts heat to cool something else off- in effect, a place to sink thermal energy.
In this case, we're cooling a soldering iron element with a heat sink. The heat is transferred into the surrounding air. The warm air can be used for a number of different things from warming a clonebox to drying buds.
end view shown - click for larger size
I wouldn't remove the metal outer sleeve over the actual ceramic or mica cored soldering iron element- the core is too fragile to be used by itself.
I would remove the plastic handle from the iron as it is no longer needed.
Form the aluminum sheet around a drill bit of the same diameter as the soldering iron element. Form a lip that can be drilled and fitted with 4-40, 6-32 or similar size stainless steel nuts and machine screws to create a clamp.
When the aluminum sheet has been clamped FIRMLY to the sheeting, roll the sheet up around the iron element to create a spiral heating element for many uses.
Temperature of this heater assembly can be controlled with a standard incandescent light dimmer.
See my bud dryer thread for a wiring diagram.
A heat sink is a mass of metal or other thermally conductive material, even water, which accepts heat to cool something else off- in effect, a place to sink thermal energy.
In this case, we're cooling a soldering iron element with a heat sink. The heat is transferred into the surrounding air. The warm air can be used for a number of different things from warming a clonebox to drying buds.
Good job having a go at drawing the thing, but this might make the idea a bit clearer.
end view shown - click for larger size
I wouldn't remove the metal outer sleeve over the actual ceramic or mica cored soldering iron element- the core is too fragile to be used by itself.
I would remove the plastic handle from the iron as it is no longer needed.
Form the aluminum sheet around a drill bit of the same diameter as the soldering iron element. Form a lip that can be drilled and fitted with 4-40, 6-32 or similar size stainless steel nuts and machine screws to create a clamp.
When the aluminum sheet has been clamped FIRMLY to the sheeting, roll the sheet up around the iron element to create a spiral heating element for many uses.
Temperature of this heater assembly can be controlled with a standard incandescent light dimmer.
See my bud dryer thread for a wiring diagram.
Al B. Fuct
once had a dog named
However, the little warmer assembly isn't what I'd suggest for warming a cold grow room. Even a big soldering iron would be only about 100 watts- not a lot of energy.
A safe, laboratory type alcohol burner or a camp stove capable of burning methylated spirit (denatured alcohol aka ethanol) would probably be a better bet.
Ethanol burns fairly cleanly and emits very little light- mainly a dim blue flame. Nice so you don't interrupt the dark period of flowering plants. The benefit of using an alcohol lamp of some sort is you not only get some heat in the grow room, but a little kick of CO2 in the bargain.
As always, use only burners intended for the fuel and keep them away from plastic sheeting and other things it might set alight. Grow room fires suck.
A safe, laboratory type alcohol burner or a camp stove capable of burning methylated spirit (denatured alcohol aka ethanol) would probably be a better bet.
Ethanol burns fairly cleanly and emits very little light- mainly a dim blue flame. Nice so you don't interrupt the dark period of flowering plants. The benefit of using an alcohol lamp of some sort is you not only get some heat in the grow room, but a little kick of CO2 in the bargain.
As always, use only burners intended for the fuel and keep them away from plastic sheeting and other things it might set alight. Grow room fires suck.
Al B. Fuct
once had a dog named
When it gets really cold, even the heat from lights may not be enough to keep a room above 16C/60F, below which growth slows dramatically.
In a flowering area, the lights will be off 12 hours a day- some heat will have to be added during the dark period.
A little electric heater with a thermostat is the obvious choice. However, the alcohol lamp can be done safely if one has some commonsense.
In a flowering area, the lights will be off 12 hours a day- some heat will have to be added during the dark period.
A little electric heater with a thermostat is the obvious choice. However, the alcohol lamp can be done safely if one has some commonsense.