Nute selection for this specific case.

Hey people!

As a couple of you already knew, I have a White Widow 1 week and a half from germination that lost one Cotyledon when sprouting, her growth got slower but constant. I also have a Cheese she is starting to develop her 3rd set of leaves. I have a bit of a time issue so I will start flowering them today. However, since ill be flowering them prematurely I don't really know what to do about nuts in terms of N-P-K. Still same formula of less N more P and medium K? I am growing in cheap ass potting soil 0.08-0.12-0.08. Also, as these plants are did not complete their veggie, shall I create a schedule as its a bigger plant? How about the concentration of the nutes for the first time? In this case till when should I wait for nutting? Sorry for the many questions. Cheers everybody and for the ones who smoking/vaping/eating ENJOYYYY :weed:
 

GrowinDad

Well-Known Member
When I did something similar I kept them on normal veg nutes through the first month or two of flower and then moved to the normal bloom regiment. Seemed to work for me.
 

Adjorr

Well-Known Member
I find well balanced nutes are better then nutes with extreme differeneces in there N-P-K numbers, you want the N to be a little higher during veg and the P to be a little higher after the second week of 12/12. I use the AN sensi line of nutes and it has pretty much even all around numbers, ive used the bloom stuff on my friends vegging plants and the grow stuff on flowering plants without issue, ive just adjusted how much of each part of the 2 part solution im mixing to get a mix i feel will work. Watching your plants for signs of deficancy is really the best way to know what nutes to be giving it and when rather then following a specific feeding schedule. Ideally i should always be using the grow and bloom during the right times to use them but sometimes i run out of one or the other as i have a lot of plants i help look after so i just improvise sometimes lol
 
I find well balanced nutes are better then nutes with extreme differeneces in there N-P-K numbers, you want the N to be a little higher during veg and the P to be a little higher after the second week of 12/12. I use the AN sensi line of nutes and it has pretty much even all around numbers, ive used the bloom stuff on my friends vegging plants and the grow stuff on flowering plants without issue, ive just adjusted how much of each part of the 2 part solution im mixing to get a mix i feel will work. Watching your plants for signs of deficancy is really the best way to know what nutes to be giving it and when rather then following a specific feeding schedule
Thanks for the advice! I will probably wait 2 more weeks before I start muting because these girls are still small. I rather add less than more. I will follow your advice and see how it goes, I will be posting pics periodically.
 

JRTokin

Active Member
I found out the hard way in my first few grows and made the obvious noob mistake of over ferting too early. Its too much for them at an early age. As mentioned always try and work on what the plant needs. Usually they are good for first few weeks as the nutes in the soil will sustain them. Depending on soil brand an how heavily ferted you can get away without any vegging nutes sometimes. Most plants will then begin to strech in first few weeks and nute requirements obviously go up. But not massively. Its after the second and 3rd week of 12/12 that they really begin to eat as they put all their energy into bud production.

Weeks 5 and 6 will have them at their peak before decending again to finally needing nothing in final weeks of flower. Most people only water with plain water final weeks.

As mentioned above just look at what your plant needs. If in soil remember you can always add! Dont overdo it with nutes, less really is more regardless of what the nutrient companies tell you. Cannabis grows on the roadside in china and india and theres not many people feeding them bud candy there :-o good luck

Oh yeah and just while im at it cheap ass potting soil might be good if you want cheap ass ditch weed but for A grade sensimillia you should repot into something better. Try quality organic potting mix with good drainage and Plenty of humus.
 
I found out the hard way in my first few grows and made the obvious noob mistake of over ferting too early. Its too much for them at an early age. As mentioned always try and work on what the plant needs. Usually they are good for first few weeks as the nutes in the soil will sustain them. Depending on soil brand an how heavily ferted you can get away without any vegging nutes sometimes. Most plants will then begin to strech in first few weeks and nute requirements obviously go up. But not massively. Its after the second and 3rd week of 12/12 that they really begin to eat as they put all their energy into bud production.

Weeks 5 and 6 will have them at their peak before decending again to finally needing nothing in final weeks of flower. Most people only water with plain water final weeks.

As mentioned above just look at what your plant needs. If in soil remember you can always add! Dont overdo it with nutes, less really is more regardless of what the nutrient companies tell you. Cannabis grows on the roadside in china and india and theres not many people feeding them bud candy there :-o good luck

Oh yeah and just while im at it cheap ass potting soil might be good if you want cheap ass ditch weed but for A grade sensimillia you should repot into something better. Try quality organic potting mix with good drainage and Plenty of humus.
Beautiful, I will keep your advice in mind for my feeding schedule. And I will be replacing my soil after this grow, I had this potting soil sitting around and I thought id be good for my first grow. Things will get fancier as I develop skills. Thanks for the advice!!!

PS: Wishing I was walking in one of those "roadsides of china and india"
 

waterdawg

Well-Known Member
Why would you stop feeding in the final weeks when the buds are still growing and adding weight? Most people do not stop feeding in the final weeks IMO. I'm really not sure about soil though. I feed until the final flush and yes I watch my nute uptake and as it slows i lower but never stop. Perhaps soil is different though!
 

JRTokin

Active Member
Why would you stop feeding in the final weeks when the buds are still growing and adding weight? Most people do not stop feeding in the final weeks IMO. I'm really not sure about soil though. I feed until the final flush and yes I watch my nute uptake and as it slows i lower but never stop. Perhaps soil is different though!
Yeah that was the problem i had with hydro systems, the yield is great but your plant ends up taking most of your valuable time (and money) in nutrients, which these hydro shops and companies will happily sell you for a small fortune. I find they are generally a rip off.

Its really a personal preference, i grow for smoke quality in organic soil rather than weight. My buds are resinous, dense and very tasty. Im not saying there is a right or wrong answer. I feel the buds dry and cure better when no nutes are added in the last few waterings, i get a smoother smoke. There is always plenty nutes left in the soil, I also think the plant uses what it has stored left in the leaves before coming to the end of its life cycle. I use compostable material in my soil and water with teas, my plants always generally look healthy. Molasses water and earthworm castings with some coco for airation. Just trying to keep it simple. I Found hydro way too time consuming and my plants were always sick.
 

waterdawg

Well-Known Member
Yeah that was the problem i had with hydro systems, the yield is great but your plant ends up taking most of your valuable time (and money) in nutrients, which these hydro shops and companies will happily sell you for a small fortune. I find they are generally a rip off.
I agree somewhat with what you say as for the hydro shops charging way to much for nutes. I dont buy nutes from them though lol. All my nutes come from a local manufacturer. My nutes are less than $150 for appr 20 runs which is 2.5 years worth. I spend about 15 minutes in the shed every day but that is mostly looking at the plants and sneaking a cigerette lol. I spent many, many years growing in soil but mostly outdoors with only two seasons in and just love the freedom and cleanliness that hydro brings, this is just my opinion BTW. As far as sickly plants I totally disagree lol. My plants have never been healthier lol. I think a big issue with hydro is that a lot of people tend to push the limits re nutes and additives, again costing mega dollars lol. Back to the flushing lol. If growing organically in soil is it still neccesary to flush? If wanting to grow organically the Rev (Skunk magazine) has some great soil mixes and tea's. I find trying to pinpoint the final week is my biggest hurdle, I never judge it perfectly given that degridation of plant trichomes happens in as little as 48 hours.
 
I agree somewhat with what you say as for the hydro shops charging way to much for nutes. I dont buy nutes from them though lol. All my nutes come from a local manufacturer. My nutes are less than $150 for appr 20 runs which is 2.5 years worth. I spend about 15 minutes in the shed every day but that is mostly looking at the plants and sneaking a cigerette lol. I spent many, many years growing in soil but mostly outdoors with only two seasons in and just love the freedom and cleanliness that hydro brings, this is just my opinion BTW. As far as sickly plants I totally disagree lol. My plants have never been healthier lol. I think a big issue with hydro is that a lot of people tend to push the limits re nutes and additives, again costing mega dollars lol. Back to the flushing lol. If growing organically in soil is it still neccesary to flush? If wanting to grow organically the Rev (Skunk magazine) has some great soil mixes and tea's. I find trying to pinpoint the final week is my biggest hurdle, I never judge it perfectly given that degridation of plant trichomes happens in as little as 48 hours.
I have heard that when growing organically you don't have to get rid of the nutrients in the form of salts so no flush. Remember that to really grow organically its a process that takes a while to make the microorganism to process the nutrients for the plant to receive. I have heard that many people do not know how to go organic properly and treat it the same way as a usual grow. For this reason they get rid of the nutrients before the plant actually gets to them. THINGS I HAVE HEARD it does not come from personal experience. Cheers and off to the first bowl of the day! bongsmilie
 

JRTokin

Active Member
I agree somewhat with what you say as for the hydro shops charging way to much for nutes. I dont buy nutes from them though lol. All my nutes come from a local manufacturer. My nutes are less than $150 for appr 20 runs which is 2.5 years worth. I spend about 15 minutes in the shed every day but that is mostly looking at the plants and sneaking a cigerette lol. I spent many, many years growing in soil but mostly outdoors with only two seasons in and just love the freedom and cleanliness that hydro brings, this is just my opinion BTW. As far as sickly plants I totally disagree lol. My plants have never been healthier lol. I think a big issue with hydro is that a lot of people tend to push the limits re nutes and additives, again costing mega dollars lol. Back to the flushing lol. If growing organically in soil is it still neccesary to flush? If wanting to grow organically the Rev (Skunk magazine) has some great soil mixes and tea's. I find trying to pinpoint the final week is my biggest hurdle, I never judge it perfectly given that degridation of plant trichomes happens in as little as 48 hours.
Ive never flushed in organic grows, but mostly as i said because i usually use plain water and molasses within final waterings. I water once a week and generally let my plants do their thing. My biggest regret generally is that I cant grow outside. I would love to eventually grow huge trees outdoors and establish a medical commnity here in the UK where people can buy organic meds. I do believe in the healing power of cannabis.

I guess this is my point with the organics. My herb is spiritual to me, so i put a lot of love into it to keep it natural and organic. I really feel this in my mind when i smoke it because it resonates a pure clean energy which elevates me and all who smoke with me. We only get good vibes from the herb.

Thats a nice ferret by the way :)
 

waterdawg

Well-Known Member
I like pot too lol. And yes I put a lot of love in to it as well. It bought me my first house, and car lol. As for the organic part thats great, point is you kinda made it sound like soil is easier, for you perhaps, but that in my opinion is just not true and both have there benefits I'm sure. Also trying to grow organically with a hydro setup probably poses a few issues that a sterile setup does not. Actually I am kinda glad I am now indoors. It was a lot of work doing the outdoor thing but I grew in a pretty hard to get at place with lots of plants and getting way to old lol. I'm not entirely sold on the organic thing, but my farm is organically certified after 5 long years! The crops are used for organic dairy cows.
 

JohnDee

Well-Known Member
Mr Cannanonymous,
Growin Dad's post was probably accidentally in error. You don't want to use grow nutes for the first couple of months but rather the first two weeks...just during the initial stretch.

Keep it simple but also remember that the White Widow is a magnesium hog so start supplementing MG fairly early in vegging and continue till flush. I used epsom salts. Try 1/2 tsp per gallon and if you see yellowing between the leaf veins of lower leaves...you can bump it up to 1 tsp/gal max.
JD
 
Mr Cannanonymous,
Growin Dad's post was probably accidentally in error. You don't want to use grow nutes for the first couple of months but rather the first two weeks...just during the initial stretch.

Keep it simple but also remember that the White Widow is a magnesium hog so start supplementing MG fairly early in vegging and continue till flush. I used epsom salts. Try 1/2 tsp per gallon and if you see yellowing between the leaf veins of lower leaves...you can bump it up to 1 tsp/gal max.
JD
I thank you for your advice JohnDee, I will take care of the nutrients this week. I will post pics soon enough.
 

waterdawg

Well-Known Member
Again is that not a contraversial subject? I actually add both lol. I'm a newb so just kinda wingin it but have read two schools of thought re the grow versus flower nutes at time of switch. On one hand I have read the addition of phosphorus kick starts the bud process, on the other that the quick loss of nitrogen causes stress. Not sure which is right so I add both lol. I'll keep reading!!
 

JohnDee

Well-Known Member
Waterdawg...not sure what you were getting at when you say "adding both".

If you're talking about veg nutes and bloom nutes...one or the other...never both.

This is a soil grow right? There is some nutrient value in the dirt...so you don't need to feeds lit like a hydro plant. sorry if I missed the point. Won't be the first time. lol
JD
 

waterdawg

Well-Known Member
Sorry if I was rambling that happens as well lol. I run a flood and drain type setup (should have clarified)with water circulating 24/7 most of the time. I do add both flower and veg for the first week or two at switch to 12/12. I only veg for 15-20 days from seed as well. I run my res at around 500 -600 tds at time of switch but my base water is 200 so a pretty mild res IMO i dont pay much attention to the levels except to watch and adjust based on uptake of nutes. I have also just started to use Kinetin (growth hormone) during the run, FYI doesn't seem to do much yet lol.
 
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