'20-20-20' is essentially referring to the concentration of salts within your product (if they're being honest on the label). If it is a FACT that high levels of P kill microbes, then it's the dosage you should be concerned with, not the concentration of salts in your bottle.
Wait!?! I thought your "FACT" was "Mineral-derived plant foods do not kill microbes".
I guess I did dispute that a bit with my post so your defensiveness is understood. Unfortunately or fortunately only one set of facts is correct...oh and Yes, I meant the concentration. I say "a bit" only because I assume an organically high P level would probably kill the fungi also.
Yes, that's a fact.
I don't think you're understanding what those numbers mean. 200ppm from a '20-20-20 bottle' is the same as 200ppm from a '3-3-3 bottle'. Your statement of 'Myco fungi WILL die in P levels over 10' is false.
Bro, it is the concentration of your DOSAGE that's important, not the CONCENTRATION of the salts IN THE BOTTLE.@homebrewerLowenfels "Teaming with Microbes - A Guide to the Soil Food Web"
Bro, I have been dealing with math, logic, probabilities, correlations, and combinations "probably" since you were were shitting yellow...so you can take your condescension and assumptions and pack your bong with it. Now growing weed is new to me so there I turn to those with knowledge to share and books by the same. You might want open one yourself...
H/t. Bugeye
From p. 151 of Jeff
"Rule #14 warns that if you want to work with the soil food web, you need to stay away from additives that have high NPK numbers. Most gardeners know these letters represent the the percentage of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium in the fertilizer, and this NPK trilogy appears on all fertilizer packaging. Don't put anything on the lawn with NPK numbers greater than 10-10-10; traditional organic fertilizers usually meet this criterium. Of particular note is that a high (anything over 10) concentration of phosphorus not only prevents mycorrhizal fungi from growing but kills off the ones that are there. As a result, the grass loses its ability to take up a resource easily, and no matter how much phosphorus you put on the lawn, it is locked up quickly and unavailable to the mycorrhizae-less grass plants."
So yeah, sorry for adding my little tidbit to the discussion, hate to clutter things up with hyperbole.
If organic always outperformed synthetic, there would be no market for it
@homebrewerLowenfels "Teaming with Microbes - A Guide to the Soil Food Web"
Bro, first,you can take your condescension and assumptions and pack your bong with it. Now growing weed is new to me so there I turn to those with knowledge to share and books by the same. You might want open one yourself...
H/t. Bugeye
From p. 151 of Jeff
"Rule #14 warns that if you want to work with the soil food web, you need to stay away from additives that have high NPK numbers. Most gardeners know these letters represent the the percentage of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium in the fertilizer, and this NPK trilogy appears on all fertilizer packaging. Don't put anything on the lawn with NPK numbers greater than 10-10-10; traditional organic fertilizers usually meet this criterium. Of particular note is that a high (anything over 10) concentration of phosphorus not only prevents mycorrhizal fungi from growing but kills off the ones that are there. As a result, the grass loses its ability to take up a resource easily, and no matter how much phosphorus you put on the lawn, it is locked up quickly and unavailable to the mycorrhizae-less grass plants."
So yeah, sorry for adding my little tidbit to the discussion, hate to clutter things up with hyperbole.
So books arn't your thing then. What were the odds? Sorry, but you seem to want to add a level of difficulty to the concept that just is not there. The assumption that can be made is that a standard application of a fert with a concentration of P > 10 proved to be detrimental to the myco*. But sure, increasing that dosage will increase the detriment. Lastly, your little deflection at the end is rather pointless when the point IS the killing of myco* fungi with high P...which would be happening regardless of the type of plant it was there to help.
If you don't understand the concept of ratios, dosages, or concentration levels, you might want to read a better book
.
Friend, I have understood the concentration numbers since that tree-hugger Nixon was president. One of my degrees is in Quantitative Method with a minor in math. I also would bet that I have read 100x more books and increasingly more growing books than you. Let me know if you want to exchange reading lists. I assume that because you obviously feel that organics has nothing to offer I will leave off the likes of Lowenfel.If you don't understand the concept of ratios, dosages, or concentration levels, you might want to read a better book
To that, I'd love to know what the 'standard application rate' is. Care to share?
why not. sell me some of your poop! lol
I like Teaming with Microbes. But, the part you quoted could have been written better. NPK numbers on the box are merely percentage of weight. The way the book describes it, they must mean "if the same dosage is used." But, when the book only says "nothing higher than 10-10-10" it's confusing because someone could buy 20-20-20 and use it at half the dosage, and they'd have the same strength as using 20-20-20 at full strength.
Bugs like organic, and there is a smell also..