PC grow case
- Thread starter BTK3ill
- Start date
v12xjs
Well-Known Member
Hey Sonicgrower
There's plenty of guides on the web for coverting PC power supply's but don't forget that they do run quite warm, which is why they are usually fitted with at least 1 dedicated fan. They are almost always at the top of the case too which reduces space for bulbs.
There's plenty of guides on the web for coverting PC power supply's but don't forget that they do run quite warm, which is why they are usually fitted with at least 1 dedicated fan. They are almost always at the top of the case too which reduces space for bulbs.
LOLsauce
Active Member
yeh I looked at my local hydro shop and the tds meter is like $30, think they might have a cheaper one at a pet store? Are they used for measuring ppm for fish or are they only used to dish out the nutes for hydro?
o and also i smashed my godamn cooltube today while making the bracket to hang it and my light............. so i guess its off to michaels again.... in terms of good news, all i have left to do it get a new one and wrap my walls in reflective material then tape the seams and im ready to go (besides getting the nutes and tds and pH meter) but slow and steady wins the race (unless ur actually racing)
PS: im using that exact same air pump purchased at walmart for like $7
o and also i smashed my godamn cooltube today while making the bracket to hang it and my light............. so i guess its off to michaels again.... in terms of good news, all i have left to do it get a new one and wrap my walls in reflective material then tape the seams and im ready to go (besides getting the nutes and tds and pH meter) but slow and steady wins the race (unless ur actually racing)
PS: im using that exact same air pump purchased at walmart for like $7
v12xjs
Well-Known Member
It will do until your next paycheck 
Once things are up and running you will need some odour control and that will reduce the effectiveness of your fans, so you will also need a thermometer that records min / max temps.
If you don't have any ideas for odour control, I get by with a filter made from a universal cooker hood filter. They are made from activated carbon and 10 years supply is dirt cheap
Kit looks great too. You'll do fine in that.
Once things are up and running you will need some odour control and that will reduce the effectiveness of your fans, so you will also need a thermometer that records min / max temps.
If you don't have any ideas for odour control, I get by with a filter made from a universal cooker hood filter. They are made from activated carbon and 10 years supply is dirt cheap
Kit looks great too. You'll do fine in that.
v12xjs
Well-Known Member
I prefer soil for the pc case personally.
Maximising growth is a bit counter productive for a pc grow.
Using fixed lights with hydro is a bit of effort too. You have to move the tank to the bulb. It would be much easier with a lowering bulb system but I don't have one.
Hydro is definitely worth the effort though. The plants seem to love it.
Maximising growth is a bit counter productive for a pc grow.
Using fixed lights with hydro is a bit of effort too. You have to move the tank to the bulb. It would be much easier with a lowering bulb system but I don't have one.
Hydro is definitely worth the effort though. The plants seem to love it.
well the box came with a magnetic mesh self that i can raise the plant on...
i just have no clue what else specifically to buy
and also what nutes to use
if u could help me out then ill start that hydro setup
this is what i have for the hydro
its all the stuff in the pic above
*Magnetic mesh shelf
*Hydroton Rock
*Air Pump
*Hydroponics Reservoir
*Two Rock wool Cubes
what else do i need?
i just have no clue what else specifically to buy
and also what nutes to use
if u could help me out then ill start that hydro setup
this is what i have for the hydro
its all the stuff in the pic above
*Magnetic mesh shelf
*Hydroton Rock
*Air Pump
*Hydroponics Reservoir
*Two Rock wool Cubes
what else do i need?
v12xjs
Well-Known Member
Do you have an airstone for the pump?
If not then the fish section of your local pet store will sell them. You want one that is the same length as the tank you are using or maybe just a little shorter. Obviously a tube long enough to get from the pump into the bottom of the tank to connect the airstone will be needed too.
Start out in plain water. From memory the ph needs to be between 5.8 and 6.5, so ph strips or bottles of ph liquid aren't really accurate enough. Go for a good electronic meter.
Nutes should be hydro specific and you may need some veg nutes even though they are autoflowering seeds. I still have some hydro nutes that worked well for me. I'll have a look at what they are called & post up later for you.
You need to know what temps and humidity levels you are running. A thermomenter which records max and min temps will allow you to work out if things get too hot or cold while you are out of the growroom. Humidity becomes more important after flowering. If it's too high you can lose the crop to bud rot. Good temp gauges include humidity readouts so look for one of these.
I find a remote thermomenter is best as I can monitor outside and inside temps, but this isn't critical.
I haven't used a magnetic shelf so it would be worth checking that it can hold the weight of the tank before you go live. Try it without anything plugged in to be on the safe side.
I'll find out those nute details in a bit and give you a quick guide on how to set things up.
If not then the fish section of your local pet store will sell them. You want one that is the same length as the tank you are using or maybe just a little shorter. Obviously a tube long enough to get from the pump into the bottom of the tank to connect the airstone will be needed too.
Start out in plain water. From memory the ph needs to be between 5.8 and 6.5, so ph strips or bottles of ph liquid aren't really accurate enough. Go for a good electronic meter.
Nutes should be hydro specific and you may need some veg nutes even though they are autoflowering seeds. I still have some hydro nutes that worked well for me. I'll have a look at what they are called & post up later for you.
You need to know what temps and humidity levels you are running. A thermomenter which records max and min temps will allow you to work out if things get too hot or cold while you are out of the growroom. Humidity becomes more important after flowering. If it's too high you can lose the crop to bud rot. Good temp gauges include humidity readouts so look for one of these.
I find a remote thermomenter is best as I can monitor outside and inside temps, but this isn't critical.
I haven't used a magnetic shelf so it would be worth checking that it can hold the weight of the tank before you go live. Try it without anything plugged in to be on the safe side.
I'll find out those nute details in a bit and give you a quick guide on how to set things up.
v12xjs
Well-Known Member
OK here's the stuff I used for the hydro. I didn't realise that it could be used for soil grows too, so maybe it's a good buy whether you go for soil or hydro:
http://www.generalhydroponics.com/genhydro_US/floranova.html
Forgot to mention that you will need something to adjust your ph once you've measured it. I just got ph up and ph down from the local hydro supplier, but you can get by with household stuff like vinegar and bicarb of soda. Do a search on here for more specifics if you go that route to save money as I have no experience of what works best. Remember that any additives will affect final ppm readings and will mean you use less nutes the more ph adjustment you use. Best to start with the cleanest water you can for this reason.
I put tap water through a water filter and leave to stand for 24 hours personally.
http://www.generalhydroponics.com/genhydro_US/floranova.html
Forgot to mention that you will need something to adjust your ph once you've measured it. I just got ph up and ph down from the local hydro supplier, but you can get by with household stuff like vinegar and bicarb of soda. Do a search on here for more specifics if you go that route to save money as I have no experience of what works best. Remember that any additives will affect final ppm readings and will mean you use less nutes the more ph adjustment you use. Best to start with the cleanest water you can for this reason.
I put tap water through a water filter and leave to stand for 24 hours personally.
v12xjs
Well-Known Member
I'm sure there's lots of top advice on here in the hydro forums, but here's what worked for me:
Prep the water and fill the tank. No nutes yet, just ph adjusted water.
Put the airstone in and put the top on the tank.
Put your net pot (assume you already have these) in the hole and fill it with the hydroton rocks until they are just covered by the water level. Now put one more layer of rocks down so the top rocks are wet but not sat in the water.
Place the rockwool in the pot and fill in the sides with rocks.
Put your seed in the rockwool and turn on the pump.
That will get you started. I'll have another look at your setup and try to work out what I would with with an autoflower in there to get the best yields.
I'll post again later, but have a look at the hydro section on here too.
Good luck.
Prep the water and fill the tank. No nutes yet, just ph adjusted water.
Put the airstone in and put the top on the tank.
Put your net pot (assume you already have these) in the hole and fill it with the hydroton rocks until they are just covered by the water level. Now put one more layer of rocks down so the top rocks are wet but not sat in the water.
Place the rockwool in the pot and fill in the sides with rocks.
Put your seed in the rockwool and turn on the pump.
That will get you started. I'll have another look at your setup and try to work out what I would with with an autoflower in there to get the best yields.
I'll post again later, but have a look at the hydro section on here too.
Good luck.
v12xjs
Well-Known Member
Having looked at the case there are a couple of issues that you will need to work around, so for this grow you should leave the lights and fans on permanently.
I think you should get a wide hose that fits over the lower fan and runs round the side of the case, otherwise you will be sucking in hot air from the exhaust fan directly above the intake.
Temps will still get hot as the exhaust fan is below the heat line, so keep an eye on them. Lowryder will be ok up to 90F but will not do well even a few degrees above this.
You will only have around 3 weeks to train the plants in order to fill the space as much as possible. Let them grow straight until there are 4 sets of true leaves and then put the shelf above them so that they can be trained to grow along the shelf. Each time the top pops up, wait until it is tall enough and push it back under the next rung on the shelf.
You want to be able to remove the shelf without disturbing the plant or else it will be a bitch to change the water in the tank, which should be done every 7 - 10 days.
After a while the stems will harden so it will stay in place without the shelf.
While the plants are short and the shelf is above the grow, use a couple of stacks of cd cases or something to keep the plants near the light. Just make sure the tank is stable.
Until the plants are trained I would probably have them 3 - 4 inches from the bulbs to induce a little stretching.
That should get you started. Get some pics up when you can and people will advise you from there.
I think you should get a wide hose that fits over the lower fan and runs round the side of the case, otherwise you will be sucking in hot air from the exhaust fan directly above the intake.
Temps will still get hot as the exhaust fan is below the heat line, so keep an eye on them. Lowryder will be ok up to 90F but will not do well even a few degrees above this.
You will only have around 3 weeks to train the plants in order to fill the space as much as possible. Let them grow straight until there are 4 sets of true leaves and then put the shelf above them so that they can be trained to grow along the shelf. Each time the top pops up, wait until it is tall enough and push it back under the next rung on the shelf.
You want to be able to remove the shelf without disturbing the plant or else it will be a bitch to change the water in the tank, which should be done every 7 - 10 days.
After a while the stems will harden so it will stay in place without the shelf.
While the plants are short and the shelf is above the grow, use a couple of stacks of cd cases or something to keep the plants near the light. Just make sure the tank is stable.
Until the plants are trained I would probably have them 3 - 4 inches from the bulbs to induce a little stretching.
That should get you started. Get some pics up when you can and people will advise you from there.
well i basically just started the bag seed outta bordem haha but once my blueryder comes in which i dont know if i mentioned i oredered blue ryder instead of lr2 but when the blue comes in im taking the bag out and puting the lowryders into the box. idk what im gonna do with the bagseed? haha but im worried i got the veg box but im still waiting on the flower box and hydro kit
v12xjs
Well-Known Member
Hey guys
Great to hear things are moving on. Didn't know you got both boxes BTK3ill. You kept that quiet
The plants will need nutes in soil too.
The bagseed will grow different to the blue. Grow it while you can and get some experience with it in the box. It can sit in a soil pot on top of the tank if it arrives in time. You may be able to plant it out if / when it becomes unmanageable too.
Great to hear things are moving on. Didn't know you got both boxes BTK3ill. You kept that quiet
The plants will need nutes in soil too.
The bagseed will grow different to the blue. Grow it while you can and get some experience with it in the box. It can sit in a soil pot on top of the tank if it arrives in time. You may be able to plant it out if / when it becomes unmanageable too.