The Dawg
Well-Known Member
I Tested Mine And They Worked
Pictures of your DIY lights - Post your pics!!!
- Thread starter TimeToBurn
- Start date
randydj
Well-Known Member
Nothing beats practical experience.I Tested Mine And They Worked
Waiting on parts - the cob holders are on back-order. I also decided to add some far red 730nm Semileds to manipulate the phytochrome cycle. I hope to get this stuff by the first part of next week. I will be controlling the lights, main and far red, CO2 injection/exhaust fan with an Arduino. I will be adding a real time clock to the Arduino and need to reprogram it for the next grow. I only controlled the CO2 injection/exhaust fan with the Arduino on my current grow. It was a really simple program compared to my next undertaking.
This forum has so much information it is mind boggling, speaking of mind boggling it is time for my meds,
Thanks
bassman999
Well-Known Member
Nice thank you!
birdinreverse
Member
Hi Dawg can you provide more details on the switch ratings and installation. I was considering a similar plan for CPU coolers, tried to search for more info on your build with no success. What temp rating, adhesive and circuit design did you use? Many thanks.I Tested Mine And They Worked
robincnn
Well-Known Member
I reached out to Bridgelux several times for Vero 29 90 CRI spectrum and never heard back. Thanks for the first ever Vero 29 90 CRI spectrum.
Looks very similar to Citizen.
The Dawg
Well-Known Member
Brother I Used A 55C Open Type Of Thermal Switch Connected To The Dimmer. When This Type Of Switch Reaches 55C It Will Close Dimming Your Lights Down To 20%. And when Your Heat Sink Cools Off It Will Open Back Up Turning Your Lights To 100%
birdinreverse
Member
Thanks The Dawg! Great idea as well. I was considering a thermal shut-down for the whole system and had overlooked any options with the dimmer. With multiple coolers would you suggest all the thermal switches in series with the dimmer pot? Did you use adhesive TIM? Thanks again.Brother I Used A 55C Open Type Of Thermal Switch Connected To The Dimmer. When This Type Of Switch Reaches 55C It Will Close Dimming Your Lights Down To 20%. And when Your Heat Sink Cools Off It Will Open Back Up Turning Your Lights To 100%
The Dawg
Well-Known Member
Yes that's the way I did it and I used Artic Silver Thermal Adhesive
DonBrennon
Well-Known Member
Finally putting them into some action..................
sixstring2112
Well-Known Member
man that control board looks awesome.nice clean work,why cant i do this lol
bassman999
Well-Known Member
Agreed
I wont show my wire mess lol
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bizfactory
Well-Known Member
My god, @DonBrennon, such a nice build. Love the remote drivers/dimmers and those screw on style connections!
OLD MOTHER SATIVA
Well-Known Member
nice..remote drivers are cool..pardon pun..
has any one done a flip box scenerio with mean wells and cob bars..?
it should work and save on drivers
has any one done a flip box scenerio with mean wells and cob bars..?
it should work and save on drivers
sanjuan
Well-Known Member
Power down the Mean Well, switch the DC circuit, then power up. (Don't switch the DC circuit when powered up, in other words.)
Greenthumbs256
Well-Known Member
6 different cfl
150w hps
150w hps
Attachments
bizfactory
Well-Known Member
Are those the Alpine 11 heatsinks with the fans removed? Looks clean so far!!
randydj
Well-Known Member
Alpine 64 GT Rev.2 fans off for machining. I was trying to build this light assembly for less than $200. not possible but I think I may come in under $300.