!!!Please Help!!!!!!

You can use the r/o water too, just make sure you pH it out first. Also make sure you test your water's pH after you add any fertilizers or supplements to it, since they will change the pH of your water. You don't need to add any CalMag until the last gallon of your flush, since you need to get the pH right before adding any more ferts/supplements.

Thanks a bunch!!!!!!!!!! +rep

Antigen said:

You can use the r/o water too, just make sure you pH it out first. Also make sure you test your water's pH after you add any fertilizers or supplements to it, since they will change the pH of your water. You don't need to add any CalMag until the last gallon of your flush, since you need to get the pH right before adding any more ferts/supplements.

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Good luck!

I am flushing them right now with r/o water that is phed at 6.0 and the runoff is is 6.5. They are in 1.5 gallon pots and i have flushed with 4 gallons already. How much more water should i use??

Antigen said:

You can use the r/o water too, just make sure you pH it out first. Also make sure you test your water's pH after you add any fertilizers or supplements to it, since they will change the pH of your water. You don't need to add any CalMag until the last gallon of your flush, since you need to get the pH right before adding any more ferts/supplements.

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1.5 gallon pots should take about 5 gallons to flush correctly. You want to use pH 6.5 - 6.8 water though. 6.0 is too low, anything under 6.5 and you will get Magnesium lockout. If you can't measure that precisely then try to err on the high side rather than the low side.

well im in a soiless mix its just like hydro so im running it at 6.0 that has been workin but i let the pots dry out and the soil became alkaline. that explains the high ph. thanks for all your help again!!

Antigen said:

1.5 gallon pots should take about 5 gallons to flush correctly. You want to use pH 6.5 - 6.8 water though. 6.0 is too low, anything under 6.5 and you will get Magnesium lockout. If you can't measure that precisely then try to err on the high side rather than the low side.

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soiless needs 5.8 maybe down to 5.6 for ph. a ph of 6.5 -6.8 is for soil. not soiless.

fourrings said:

soiless needs 5.8 maybe down to 5.6 for ph. a ph of 6.5 -6.8 is for soil. not soiless.

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i am soiless and i feed with 6.0 and the medium stays aroud 6.8.

now i didnt read the whole thing so this may have been stated already but this appears that you may have a light leak during your 12 hours dark. if you do it may be going back to veg state.

From what i understand organics drop your ph, and severly underwatering can raise your ph...correct?? If that is true than letting my pots get dry caused the ph to raise. The week before this issue i had checked my runoff and it was loww 5.5 or so. Now its hi the soil was above 7.0 when i first checked it and after flushing last night my ph runoff was 6.0..rzza: why does your ph in your soil stay around 6.8??? is that the desired range for soiless mixes?????

rzza said:

i am soiless and i feed with 6.0 and the medium stays aroud 6.8.

now i didnt read the whole thing so this may have been stated already but this appears that you may have a light leak during your 12 hours dark. if you do it may be going back to veg state.

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desired range for nutrien uptake is 5-6 for soil or soilless im pretty sure....has to do with the plants not the medium, plants best take in nutriens inbetween that range, thats my understanding of it sombody correct me if im wrong

im under the impression we want 6.0 - 7.0 runoff. its something ill be looking into tonight alot more in depth. ill report back. please link me to any articles you know of that are good.

Here's a chart showing the nutrient availability and lockout ranges for soil (top chart) and hydro (bottom chart). It is very different pH levels you are going for between soil and hydro, so make sure to check the correct chart for your grow type!

i love that chart.

Awesome chart. But what is the white box's represent??

Antigen said:

Here's a chart showing the nutrient availability and lockout ranges for soil (top chart) and hydro (bottom chart). It is very different pH levels you are going for between soil and hydro, so make sure to check the correct chart for your grow type!

View attachment 963092

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From what I can figure the white means that the nutrient is available at that pH but not best available, meaning not as available as it could be but not totally locked out either.

Thx for he chart, marked on my favorites

here is an update of some pics and current growth. The plants have completely stopped growing on the whole plant and the leaves are falling off of the plant...also one of the leafs is splitting open completely tho it looks fully green and healthy. The lower half of the plants are a little more dense but the whole plant has about 80% orange hair and just wont friggin grow. Ever since i flushed them and began giving them a 50% base diet @ 6.0 instead of 6.4 they have no signs of regaining themselves,assuming its too late i had to chopped 2 plants down last night and the rest will follow unless i can figure this out..if they arent dead already whatever has happened it's killing my plants!!! The tops of the plants are still dark green and have almost no bud compared to the bottoms

Antigen said:

From what I can figure the white means that the nutrient is available at that pH but not best available, meaning not as available as it could be but not totally locked out either.

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What is a soilless medium? Is it soil or hydro?

Antigen said:

Here's a chart showing the nutrient availability and lockout ranges for soil (top chart) and hydro (bottom chart). It is very different pH levels you are going for between soil and hydro, so make sure to check the correct chart for your grow type!

View attachment 963092

Click to expand...

Honestly I'm not sure where the soilless mix would fall, but I would tend to think that you should use the hydro chart and the other is for pure soil only. I could be wrong though, hopefully someone who uses a similar soilless mix to yours can let you know what pH they are running at.

Sorry I couldn't be of more help.

edit - After reading a few other threads it seems that all the people who grow in Coco keep their pH around 5.8-6.0, so I think that means you should use the hydro chart.

Let me ask another quick question. I have been growing in soil for a little while,just recently i swiched to this soiless stuff assuming the growth rates would be more significant and that i would be able to grow faster,therefore harvesting faster. My goal is to harvest 2oz+ per week thats it!!! So far what i have been doing is just taking a few clones a week and harvesting a few a week. But this soiless stuff is killing me. I cant seem to get things dialed in...any suggestions???? Preferably i would like to harvest 1 oz per plant at a minimum and keep them kinda top heavy so i can pack them in my tent nice n snugg???? Am i just missing a frigin buffer or somethin??

Antigen said:

Honestly I'm not sure where the soilless mix would fall, but I would tend to think that you should use the hydro chart and the other is for pure soil only. I could be wrong though, hopefully someone who uses a similar soilless mix to yours can let you know what pH they are running at.

Sorry I couldn't be of more help.

edit - After reading a few other threads it seems that all the people who grow in Coco keep their pH around 5.8-6.0, so I think that means you should use the hydro chart.

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