Recycled Organic Living Soil (ROLS) and No Till Thread

dl290485

Well-Known Member
Not usually used is not the same as not able to be used. I mean around here rice hulls and pumice aren't used for gardening either.

One the bag it does say it can be used for hydroponics- in place of expanded clay balls i'm supposing.

I found 1 website so far with info about it being used in the garden http://jetta17.hubpages.com/hub/Lava-Rocks-Soils-Best-Organic-Admendment

"Incorporating lava rocks into your garden's soil is easy. When mixing soil components add enough lava rock to make up 20-25% of the total soil mix. Lava rock comes in various sizes but the best size for the garden is marble-sized rocks. Perlite is being replaced in garden soils by lava rock because of its added benefits. Layers of lava rock at the bottom of containers are recommended to increase soil drainage"

It also says there that it won't break down straight away but will gradually over time and will release minerals in the process. So I guess i've found the answer to my own question sort of.
I think I will press ahead with it and hope it works out well.
 

hyroot

Well-Known Member
Farmers all over the world use pumice and rice hulls.. Since its less dence and has more pores it aerates more.

Pumice and scoria are both lava rock. Just form differently

Good luck.
 

st0wandgrow

Well-Known Member
Those pages don't have any info on how it's used in a horticultural context.

So far I only know that it's not as porous as pumice stone and that it has some water retention properties- but I have no idea what that is like in comparison with perlite. For all I know perlite is wetter.
I've just realised it's common name is 'lava rock' and i'm now looking into google results for that.

I need to know the following: 1. Is it going to provide enough aeration when used in a mix of 1/3 coco coir, 1/3 EWC, 1/3 scoria? 2. Are the pieces too large?
It sure looks a lot like red lava rock. If it is in fact red lava rock, then you're fine. I'm using some myself right now in addition to perlite for aeration. I picked up a 1 cf bag of it at a garden center, and I took a hammer to it and crushed it in to smaller pieces. You want to aim for 1 inch pieces and smaller. The dust that's created can also be added to your mix as it will contain some trace minerals that will beneficial (particularly if you re-use your soil).

You're good to go imo.
 

headtreep

Well-Known Member
This should eliminate any questions.....

Cootz schedules for teas and application rates:

I run two 'teas' every week in both veg and flower rooms as follows

Tea #1

Sprouted Seed Tea v2.0
BioAg Ful-Power

Tea #2

Aloe Vera
Coconut Water - on this one you can use 1/4 cup for good results
BioAg TM-7

When you put them into flower, top dress with up to 2" of vermicompost.

That's it.

CC

I follow their suggested application rates and this is especially important on the Ful-Power. Hi-dosing will (not can) result in some horrific expressions that no amount of 'flushing' or 'nute deprivation' can fix or resolve.

Ful-Power - 1 oz. per gallon of water. 1x per week is more than adequate.

TM-7 - 1 gram which is 1/4 teaspoon per gallon of water. 1x per week is also more than adequate.

If you live in some of the western states, these two products are available at stores serviced by NGW (National Garden Wholesale) aka SunLight Mfg. and the price will be less than ordering direct from BioAg - they must have really cut some kind of deal! LOL

For example, a gallon of Ful-Power is $65.00 from BioAg which includes S&H charges. A gallon from Duh Dude at Hydro Heaven with the obligatory 'good dude discount' drops below $50.00 and if you bought their 2.5 gallon jug the price drops below $35.00 per gallon

Just trying to say that shopping price can save you quite a bit of money.

HTH


CC
 

Shwagbag

Well-Known Member
This should eliminate any questions.....

Cootz schedules for teas and application rates:

I run two 'teas' every week in both veg and flower rooms as follows

Tea #1

Sprouted Seed Tea v2.0
BioAg Ful-Power

Tea #2

Aloe Vera
Coconut Water - on this one you can use 1/4 cup for good results
BioAg TM-7

When you put them into flower, top dress with up to 2" of vermicompost.

That's it.

CC

I follow their suggested application rates and this is especially important on the Ful-Power. Hi-dosing will (not can) result in some horrific expressions that no amount of 'flushing' or 'nute deprivation' can fix or resolve.

Ful-Power - 1 oz. per gallon of water. 1x per week is more than adequate.

TM-7 - 1 gram which is 1/4 teaspoon per gallon of water. 1x per week is also more than adequate.

If you live in some of the western states, these two products are available at stores serviced by NGW (National Garden Wholesale) aka SunLight Mfg. and the price will be less than ordering direct from BioAg - they must have really cut some kind of deal! LOL

For example, a gallon of Ful-Power is $65.00 from BioAg which includes S&H charges. A gallon from Duh Dude at Hydro Heaven with the obligatory 'good dude discount' drops below $50.00 and if you bought their 2.5 gallon jug the price drops below $35.00 per gallon

Just trying to say that shopping price can save you quite a bit of money.

HTH


CC
Sweet! How long do you bubble for? Do you add sweeteners, vermicompost or filtered soil mix ever? How would this work in conjunction with super soil do you reckon'?
 

GreenSanta

Well-Known Member
Sweet! How long do you bubble for? Do you add sweeteners, vermicompost or filtered soil mix ever? How would this work in conjunction with super soil do you reckon'?
he said it would eliminate all questions. thread's over. close it.

:eyesmoke: I think it's funny!! ok well anyway that doesnt make me wanna use Humic Acid (BioAg...) !!!!
  • that no amount of 'flushing' or 'nute deprivation' can fix or resolve.







I will be very careful with my humic acid I guess. To be honest I have had great results having it in my SS but I believe that with good compost there should be enough of it. I refuse to use it weekly or with any type of schedule!! I LOVE WATER ONLY!! I am becoming a LAZY pothead...
 

SpliffAndMyLady

Well-Known Member
Hey gang. Would it be okay to use Humic Acid from DTE instead of BioAg?

I got leftover Azomite and Humic Acid from when I use to make SS.
 

headtreep

Well-Known Member
Hey gang. Would it be okay to use Humic Acid from DTE instead of BioAg?

I got leftover Azomite and Humic Acid from when I use to make SS.
Negative

DTE is not the real humic acid we are looking for.

GUARANTEED ANALYSIS
Down To Earth Granular Humic Acids is a highly concentrated source of humic
substances that is ideal for use on fields, turf and vegetable gardens. Carefully
mined from one of the world’s richest deposits, it is derived from the ancient
remains of decomposed organic plant materials and may increase micronutrient
uptake by plants. Naturally occurring, unaltered oxidized lignite, crushed,
screened and graded to a particle size of 1-3mm.
CONTAINS NON-PLANT
FOOD INGREDIENT(S):
50% Humic Acids derived
from Leonardite
50% Inert Ingredients


Some old notes from CC and others:

With Leonardite You have to be careful of the source. Some deposits/sources have a lot of metals/toxic crap in them.


BioAg's line of humic/fulvic acid products are not derived from Leonardite/lignite but rather fossilized peat from broad-leaved freshwater plants. Leonardite is salt water reed/sedge based according to their web page.
 

GreenSanta

Well-Known Member
Basically in a nutshell BioAg is much more superior and is the gold standard of humic/fulvic acids.
headtreep what do you think of this

http://www.gardenerspantry.ca/attachments/humicpowdermsds.pdf

That's the humic I have been using for a couple years now. this shit is so messy though it's hard to mix the powder with water any tips would be greatly appreciated. Or would half a teaspoon sprinkled around the stalk every other week would give me decent results!? (I dont like schedule but I can do every other weeks lol)
 

headtreep

Well-Known Member
headtreep what do you think of this

http://www.gardenerspantry.ca/attachments/humicpowdermsds.pdf

That's the humic I have been using for a couple years now. this shit is so messy though it's hard to mix the powder with water any tips would be greatly appreciated. Or would half a teaspoon sprinkled around the stalk every other week would give me decent results!? (I dont like schedule but I can do every other weeks lol)
GreenSanta I've never used that product but from looking at their website they seem legit. Different than the DTE product? Seems like it. I don't know enough about humics/fulvics to comment either way. BigAg seems to be the professional standard so that's why I went with them.

I'm always finding you get what you pay for when it comes to amendments and equipment that us gardeners use for the most part.

Example....Want a sprayer that will last a lifetime no BS? http://www.amazon.com/Chapin-Industrial-3-5-Gallon-Concrete-1949/dp/B00002N8O8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1372383172&sr=8-1&keywords=chapin+sprayer+3.5

I love this thing.
 

Cann

Well-Known Member
and everyone remember that BioAg's application rate for TM-7 is 1 gram per gallon, a.k.a. 1/4 tsp per gallon. DO NOT USE 1TSP per gallon lol....don't follow the directions on the package, follow the directions on the website. you've been warned...
 

kushking42

Well-Known Member
i cant believe u dropped 4x the recommended dose and they didnt take a shit. crazy. im ordering a case ill let u know what the packaging says
 

Cann

Well-Known Member
hehe you should see some of these plants. i'll post pics later. leaf burn like crazy. i'm glad they survived tho...

BioAg's products are the real deal...danger if overapplied
 

Cann

Well-Known Member
here's a picture of a cheesequake plant from a few weeks ago..the burn has only gotten worse lol. buds are still getting quite chunky though...
DSCN1428.jpg

most plants only have a bit of burn..this one seems to be hit the worst. BOxNL5/haze fan leaves on the left showing some burn..but the tops of those plants are still nice and green :)
 

Cann

Well-Known Member
Here is a better look at it recently (a few days ago) - the plants in front have a good amount of leaf burn...the ones in the back are yellow from senescence, not from TM-7 :mrgreen:

DSCN1667.jpg

the larger plants seem to be less affected...here is a BOxNL5/haze in a 10gal smartpot
DSCN1657.jpg
mostly on the lower fan leaves w/ her...
 
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