Soilless Media - Flushing Before Use?

Underground Scientist

Well-Known Member
Do a search on his name, look up make it rain, and boiling water at end. that will answer your questions
WTF, I'm getting someone telling me flushing is a myth, and they are famous for a technique that includes flushing before every feeding. Give me a break. If I flushed every time, a final flush would not be necessary, I agree...haha. I don't really plan to do that though. Flush once a month at transitional phases is my plan. Yes, I understand the wicking and all that, but drowning my plant once or twice a week isn't in my plan.
 

Dr.Nick Riviera

Well-Known Member
WTF, I'm getting someone telling me flushing is a myth, and they are famous for a technique that includes flushing before every feeding. Give me a break. If I flushed every time, a final flush would not be necessary, I agree...haha. I don't really plan to do that though. Flush once a month at transitional phases is my plan. Yes, I understand the wicking and all that, but drowning my plant once or twice a week isn't in my plan.
I'm not sure if he still does that, It also requires the right medium and conditions to do. His style is often questioned, but he knows his stuff and backs it up with proof.
 

Underground Scientist

Well-Known Member
here is what i mean by, once you leech one thing out, you have created an issue.
I just want to start on an even baseline. If something won't flush out, chances are it's not that absorbable by the plant, and shouldn't have a large effect. If I was going to flush, I would immediately replace with the mix I want it to have at that point in time.
 

Dr.Nick Riviera

Well-Known Member
I just want to start on an even baseline. If something won't flush out, chances are it's not that absorbable by the plant, and shouldn't have a large effect. If I was going to flush, I would immediately replace with the mix I want it to have at that point in time.
How do YOU know what "washed" out?

Cation exchange capacity (CEC) is the total capacity of a soil to hold exchangeable cations. CEC is an inherent soil characteristic and is difficult to alter significantly. It influences the soil's ability to hold onto essential nutrients and provides a buffer against soil acidification.

https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&rlz=1C1TSNO_enUS461US461&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=cation+exchange+capacity&*
 

Underground Scientist

Well-Known Member
How do YOU know what "washed" out?

Cation exchange capacity (CEC) is the total capacity of a soil to hold exchangeable cations. CEC is an inherent soil characteristic and is difficult to alter significantly. It influences the soil's ability to hold onto essential nutrients and provides a buffer against soil acidification.
PH I suppose. If I flushed and the ph remained, than the CEC didn't really change if I'm reading that right. There's powdered limestone in the promix, that is where all the excess ppms are coming from. I really feel it is pushing my ph too high. This isn't BX or HP, it's just premium mix...not sure if it's any different in terms of limestone. Nowhere does it say if it is dolomitic, hydrated, or what type of lime it is.
 

Dr.Nick Riviera

Well-Known Member
PH I suppose. If I flushed and the ph remained, than the CEC didn't really change if I'm reading that right. There's powdered limestone in the promix, that is where all the excess ppms are coming from. I really feel it is pushing my ph too high. This isn't BX or HP, it's just premium mix...not sure if it's any different in terms of limestone. Nowhere does it say if it is dolomitic, hydrated, or what type of lime it is.
are you thinking your medium ph is the same as the run off ph? cause the medium ph will change as it dries
 

growingforfun

Well-Known Member
Its really important to know that this is really easy. I know that you have read some really scary things that have gotten you thinking things matter way more than they do.

They dont matter that much.
Think of all the dumbasses that grow, and that do it well, simply by doing nothing.

I mean... really... take it easy... go for a walk in a park and notice how things are growing without IV lines hooked up to the root systems and theres no doctors and nurses taking readings, but yet still they grow.

Often times noobies hurt the plants most by doing exactly what your doing and overthinking it all.

Buy quality dirt or media, and just use it. Buy whatever nutrients, and just use em. You cant even know whats going on for several harvests so dont pretend you do, just start getting them under your belt.
 

Underground Scientist

Well-Known Member
Ugh, I don't fuck with them as much as I think about it. I've got 5 harvests under my belt with these strains. It's has been quite a while though. I've used promix with the same amendments before and didn't have what seems like a high pH issue, and I can't fix this shit. It won't adjust. The difference is this is promix premium not BX. Even promix says their shit should be 5.5 to 6.5, and it's probably 7 or higher, fucking me up.
 

growingforfun

Well-Known Member
If the dirt isnt working how i want it i just buy new/diff dirt. Its super cheap, cheaper by far than a risk, an not worth the time to fuck with.

Buy a kiddie pool or a large trashcan to store used dirt/media and put it in there. Add dry nutrients and start building super soil. Over time it all averages an cooks into a great soil really cheap and then you wont have to buy soil for a long time. Worth it ime.
 

Underground Scientist

Well-Known Member
I'm not looking for soil growing right now, I almost used happy frog, but decided to go soilless. Despite some saying to chill, I ran another test. I ph'd some RO and filled an 8 oz cup of a mix comprised of 3 cups Light Warrior Seed Starter by Fox Farms (peat, perlite, earthworm castings, granite dust, humid acid, microbial and bacterial innoculants), 1\2 cup perlite, 1\2 cup vermiculite. Added 5.8 water to saturation, and placed in a drainable solo cup. I then added 5.8 water in same volume as the container, and caught the runoff. Oh was very low, in the 4-5 range, ppm at 125! Pro mix was over 300. I dumped the runoff and flushed it again. 30 ppm and 5.4 ppm. Again, 24 ppm 5.8 ph. Again, 18 ppm, 5.8. The ph did stabilize. Ppm, very low. I like the benefits of the Light Warrior. I'm switching. Cost more, but it the my needs.

If I were to use this flushed soil, I would run a mild cal mag and clonex nutrient at 25 ppm at 5.8 on to start.
 

Underground Scientist

Well-Known Member
In case anyone does find this stuff intersting, there's a cool dude on youtube, NVclosetmedgrower, who does a stage by stage grow of a purple chem og. He used soil less, and it was pro mix. He does state that flushed his pro mix with RO water, two containers full to get out excess lime and balance the ph. The grow goes wonderfully.
 

Dr.Nick Riviera

Well-Known Member
In case anyone does find this stuff intersting, there's a cool dude on youtube, NVclosetmedgrower, who does a stage by stage grow of a purple chem og. He used soil less, and it was pro mix. He does state that flushed his pro mix with RO water, two containers full to get out excess lime and balance the ph. The grow goes wonderfully.
Been growing in pro mix with added ewc and growstones for years. NEVER rinsed or measured run-off and almost never check ph. i get over 1/2 lb per plant on average.Just sayin!! keep it simple stoner
 

OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
Leave the ProMix alone. I use HP for most and mix in some of their Veg and Herb mix and/or their Potting soil blend. It has dolomitic lime in that supplies a balanced amount of Ca and Mg so you're flushing out a bit of both but as it breaks down in the mix very slowly, too slowly for vigorous pot plants, some CalMag should be used to supplement them once the plants get larger and are depleting what is available from the dolomite.

And stop checking the pH of your RO water. Good RO or distilled water has no pH of it's own and is basically a blank slate.
 

Underground Scientist

Well-Known Member
Leave the ProMix alone. I use HP for most and mix in some of their Veg and Herb mix and/or their Potting soil blend. It has dolomitic lime in that supplies a balanced amount of Ca and Mg so you're flushing out a bit of both but as it breaks down in the mix very slowly, too slowly for vigorous pot plants, some CalMag should be used to supplement them once the plants get larger and are depleting what is available from the dolomite.
It just isn't working for me. The soil is testing at 6.8 ph. My newest sprouts developing pale centers within 4 -5 days of growth. I'm fine flushing the slow release lime and replacing with calcium nitrate based cal mags or even CaliMagic, which is a blend of calcium carbonate and calcium nitrate. Maybe it was just a bad batch, or this general purpose mix that is stocked through the box stores.

I'm going with the following advice -

If the dirt isnt working how i want it i just buy new/diff dirt. Its super cheap, cheaper by far than a risk, an not worth the time to fuck with.
Light Warrior it is.

And stop checking the pH of your RO water. Good RO or distilled water has no pH of it's own and is basically a blank slate.
My town water comes from a lake, and is treated with Soda Ash. It raises the PH so when it goes through our distribution system, it is less corrosive and leaches less heavy metals. I get 8.5 to 9.0 out of the tap, and RO is actually more efficient at a higher ph, but will not change the ph unless the ph level is caused by an alkaline dissolved solid. My RO water comes out at the same PH, too high. If I PH the RO water and check it in a day or two, it is still spot on, so no risk of drift or anything like that.

I thought RO would be close to neutral and was very puzzled by it, until I did the research.

added ewc and growstones for years
That's interesting, you use hydroton instead of added perlite? How much do you add? How much earthwork castings do you add, and what brand?
 
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