Uncle Ben's Gardening Tweeks and Pointers

SeaBow

Member
Hey thanks for the links elkukupanda.

My interest in the poster's question I quoted was ratios. If AN has Grow/Micro/Bloom of 7-6-11 at 1ml each adding up the label rating's NPK then using a recommended 3-1-2 veg ratio I've read earlier in this thread should be a ~ 3-1-1.3 ml ratio giving the NPK of 21-6-14.3
Complicated but is that close enough?

I know there's more simpler products but I have a lot of the AN and just can't pour it out.
 

elkukupanda

Active Member
Hey thanks for the links elkukupanda.

My interest in the poster's question I quoted was ratios. If AN has Grow/Micro/Bloom of 7-6-11 at 1ml each adding up the label rating's NPK then using a recommended 3-1-2 veg ratio I've read earlier in this thread should be a ~ 3-1-1.3 ml ratio giving the NPK of 21-6-14.3
Complicated but is that close enough?

I know there's more simpler products but I have a lot of the AN and just can't pour it out.
I was digging the thread... and within the first 6 pages you will find most of the answers you are seeking regarding fertilizing ratios and some other info

Something you might be interested in are plant hormones.. Ethylene is a very important one.. That depending on your garden sometimes there is info you can use in your favour.. The production of ethylene is tightly regulated by internal signals during development and in response to environmental stimuli from biotic (e.g., pathogen attack) and abiotic stresses, such as wounding, hypoxia, ozone, chilling, or freezing.
 

SeaBow

Member
just the regular numbers and 3-1-2 npk for veg...I like 2-1-3 for flower

Then my figuring ~ 3-1-1.3 ml ratio giving the NPK of 21-6-14.3 from the label's values would give me the NPK of about 3-1-2 ratio for veg.
Hate to beat this up too much, but I'm comfortable using a syringe to apply my nutes to my water and go with ml measurements.
 

elkukupanda

Active Member
Hello Seabow, if what you are asking is for an specific "perfect" amount of how much fert to apply to your soil... it depends on your soil and the plant. As long as you don't saturate the soil with mineral salts ( fertilizier ) you won't have nutrient burns.. Feeding goes according to the % ratio of each element... As long as each element is not too much or too little to one another you will be fine... Depending on the age and size of your plant, there is a certain amount of fertilizer that will be used... the rest won't.. and will stay in the soil... This is why some people talks about flushing and flushing... after saturating the soil with salts.. There are tables at the beginning of the thread that are helpful for this... Being with lower doses.. and see how your plant reacts...
hmmm its always worst to over fertilize.. than to under fertilize... there is so much reading about this topic... something interesting is the word "osmosis" and how it affects the plant (roots) when the plant is over watered and such... since this is link to your watering ritual... dial in your watering... hopefully this is helpful. i'm lazy when it comes to elaborating stuff.... Ok, this link is better.. i'm do my homework as well... http://www.soils.wisc.edu/extension/wcmc/2008/ppt/Laboski1.pdf
 

elkukupanda

Active Member
UB, when reading studies about plans... I been taking into consideration.. Annuals, flowering plants like grapevines...small flowering plants... That have a similar development to cannabis... What do you take into consideration?
 

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
UB, when reading studies about plans... I been taking into consideration.. Annuals, flowering plants like grapevines...small flowering plants... That have a similar development to cannabis... What do you take into consideration?
The usual - light, temps, water, etc.
 

bde0001

New Member
UB my man, Will my plant grow smaller/slower if I move it to a 55-60 degree srea as opposed to the current which is 65-68?


(I'm guessing it will, this fucking blows)

already have been vegging for quite some time. (6-7 maybe 8 weeks? under cfl's) I dont wanna veg it for another month . I cant have it flower in the house out of my main grow room otherwise it will stink up the house
 

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
UB my man, Will my plant grow smaller/slower if I move it to a 55-60 degree srea as opposed to the current which is 65-68?


(I'm guessing it will, this fucking blows)

already have been vegging for quite some time. (6-7 maybe 8 weeks? under cfl's) I dont wanna veg it for another month . I cant have it flower in the house out of my main grow room otherwise it will stink up the house
Slower. Fastest growth is around 85/60F day/night.
 

Sir.Ganga

New Member
I read and read and try to figure out why a guy with so much info and resources doesn't listen to reason or is willing to learn a little more. We all learn every day, you should do the same because from what Ive read you do have a real good knowledge base but do to your arrogants and old habits you spit in the faces of others willing to communicate with you. Im sure I could learn a lot from you and visa versa if you could be civil and not think your info is correct while ALL other are just plain wrong.

Here is my take on your orignal comments.

LIGHT You recommend 20/4 for vegging in one sentence then down the pharagraph you comment on how light saturation harms the plants? 20/4 doesn't saturate them? Actually the recommended light period for any indoor grow whether cannabis or vegtables is 16/8, if your concerned about saturation. Plants in nature rarely get a concentrated amount of light for any length of time. Indoors we manipulate many things including light. The key to blasting the light to them is height control. Putting these plants under hid lighting is not a natural state, light saturation in the plants happens to every garden every day. Knowing what to look for is the key to indoor lighting, many people call it nitrogen defficient when they see it, when really they need a rest from the light. You gotta remember were pushing these plants to the limit.

Temperature and the importance of day/night differential Temp. changes from day to night is a myth. Studies have proven this, with a little research and reading you can find this information anywhere. Once the lights go off metobloical changes occurs just like in humans and the plants systems slow to a crawl. Carbo intake does increase but nightime temps have little to do with the amount of uptake. The actual rule is your temp difference should NOT be greater than 10 degrees, keeping the room at a constant temp has little to no effect on the plant or its growthr rate. Again this is indoor gardening and when old outdoor techniques get put into the mix, these myths get started.

Watering technique I have to agree with you on this one, another myth, the wet/dry cycle can have an adverse effect on the growth rate and can and does stress the plants.

Fertilizers Again I agree with you but have a different outlook on fertilizers. It is very easy for a newb or even a veteran to get themselves into trouble if they do not know the science behind it. Most growers do not want a degree they want smoke. I always recommend using a nutrient line of products because the science has already been done by the company and allows the grower time educate themselves.

Foliage production This is where your oldschool outdoor ways fall short. Leaving foilage alone results in smaller buds in a indoor enviorment. Most people have grown tomatoes so I'll use them as an example. Removing the suckers from a tomatoe plant is exactly the same for cannabis. Leaving the suckers on a tomatoe plant will result in a loss of total weight and all the fruit will be generally smaller. Suckers would be the little growing shoots along the stems before the main growing shoots Same technique applies here also, by removing suckers and foilage below a certain point will result in bigger flowers towards the top and a larger yeild is the result.

Upcanning (repotting) Sorry but this is another outdoor technique. When re-planting, stress is your enemy, cutting and hacking roots will just result in a stress plant that will take longer to re-establish and start vigorus growth. The only time you should cut roots is when you are completely root bound and if this happens then you have done something wrong before this point and you should check your schedule. Being indoors we have different factors to watch for, Changing ground level on re-plant can also cause a hole bunch of issues including ROT. This technique is not recommended for indoor or greenhouse growing.

I think you are taking outdoor growing and trying to bottle it for indoors. There are a few similarities but in general were talking apples and oranges and really...take a walk through your nearest greenhouse and maybe ask a couple of questions, these are the people you want knowledge from when it comes to indoor growing.
 

chuck estevez

Well-Known Member
funny, since I started upcanning, I notice the plants absolutely love it and never show stress. Also, Lowering the night temps in my sealed room helps to dehumidify so I don't have to run a dehu that fights my a/c and runs up the electric bill.
 

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
Here is my take on your orignal comments.

LIGHT You recommend 20/4 for vegging in one sentence then down the pharagraph you comment on how light saturation harms the plants? 20/4 doesn't saturate them?
No, not when folks use a 75W incandescent bulb screwed into a chicken breeder hood like you do. That's about all the time I'll give to this fool trying to play another 'gotcha game'.

FAIL
 

Mcwhippin420

Well-Known Member
Yo Unc ! Wusup man damn so much KISS method it's stupid haha ! Yeah look at my sig plz my flowering mid grades everyone been telling me ph problem but I haven't been adding nutes for the longest lol listening to everyone :-/ o well live and learn all my buds still look half decent for how they got vegged and there conditions I'm going to add some nutes today I have the AN MGB which now I'm 2nd guessing them haha well look forward to much more readings from ya bro ... And also I topped my first plant a blue dream I am doing 12/12 from seed have one LST other topped !!
also used aquarium on kit my runoff was 6.8 color
 

Mcwhippin420

Well-Known Member
Yes the pots are to small and the soil of flowering girls is MG so I have a few corrections that would have made them way healthier :-/ learned a lot tho !!
 

Fruitbat

Active Member
This is what happens when you listen to Uncle Ben's advice: Black Gold Organic Potting Soil .005 / 0.0 / 0.0. Dyna Grow Foliage Pro. 1000 HPS. 67 - 83 +/- degrees. One fan. Topped at the second true node (there are 4 perfect branches/colas). Been on 12/12 for about 1 1/2 weeks.

Madshack (White Widow x Herijuana x Sannie's Jack)


madshack.jpg

Less is more.
 
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