Cloning solution???

[badankadank]

Do they sell cloning gell at lowes or wallmart? Is shultz rooting formula a cloning solution? I have never tried this but I would like to give it a shot, I just dont want to pay 30$ for a little bottle at the hydro shop. Besides for some rockwool do I need any other supplys to clone?

 

[KAOSOWNER]

shultz takeroot is what i use, and i do believe they sell it at lowes. works great

 

[badankadank]

Thanks, do you use anything in your foliar spray? Do you use a humidity dome? Is there any good methods to making your own humidity dome?

 

[Florida Girl]

I don't know if this is true or not but I've read that you should not use products that are labeled not safe for food plants. I bought some generic stuff at Wal Mart called Green Light rooting hormone... I didn't read the label first. When I got home I read the label and it says "Do not use on plants that are to be used for food or feed".

So anyway ... I ditched that and bought a bottle of Clonex from HTG.... wouldn't you know it.... it says it's not safe for food product plants either! Anyway... I went ahead and used the "clonex".


So... does ANYONE have any knowledge if it's safe to use products labeled "not for food plants"????

 

[KAOSOWNER]

damn florida girl, that is something i havnt really thought about. i will do some research because i am very curious now. I just checked the Shultz TakeRoot doesnt say that but i guess i could of missed it.

Depending on the size of the clone plastic sandwich bags work great. for a large clone you may have to purchase something, for me when i cut larger clones i dont usually use a humidity dome i just mist my ladies alot and clip off all the leaf tips.

 

[tonydash]

can you explain what i do with a plastic bag and a small clone?

I was going to just plant my clone in a solo cup filled with perlite and then water down....maybe put plastic over top of cup?

please i want to do this right

 

[KAOSOWNER]

yes i put the baggie over the cup and clone. cloning is simple when i cut i run the cut end under cool water then dip in my shultz takeroot dip the cut end in my shultz then place the clone in a cup of vermiculite. then i mist her and put the baggie over the top, not tightly you want the air the baggie is your humidity dome. take the bag off daily to get fresh air in and mist. i have cloned many different ways and have never not been able to do it. even when i do it crappy all my clones take root

 

[Florida Girl]

damn florida girl, that is something i havnt really thought about. i will do some research because i am very curious now. I just checked the Shultz TakeRoot doesnt say that but i guess i could of missed it.

George Cervantes Medical Growers Bible, page 46 where he lists a bunch of rooting hormones it says:

"Warning! Some products are not recommended for use with edible plants. Read the label carefully before deciding to use a product."

Of course on that same page where he's listing the hormones he lists Clonex. I bought a bottle and it says on the label:

"This product is not intended for use on food crop sites"

So WTF?? Why does he have that hormone listed? I don't know .... and some people think Cervantes is full of shit.... so I thought I'd ask here and see what others thoughts are on this issue.

 

[KAOSOWNER]

i remember reading something like that as well, havnt found anything yet but am still researching.

 

[KAOSOWNER]

This is what ive found so far, i copied and pasted the section i think makes some sence to what we are looking for but i will also p[ost a link to the whole page because it is some good reading and should be useful to you badankadank
http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/nursery/pdf/cultural_practices/propagation/rooting_4_you.pdf


Hormones:​

​

Rooting hormones used in the nursery industry are synthetic versions of
naturally occurring plant compounds called auxins. The two forms most commonly sold
are usually listed as IBA and NAA.
Hormones are needed by plants in very small quantities so they are sold in ready to use or
ready to be diluted formulations mixed with something else. The most common forms
are either mixed with talc and come in a powder form or can be purchased as a liquid
either diluted in alcohol or water. There are plants that seem to root more successfully
when powders or alcohol based or water based liquid solvents are used but toxicity from
solvents is rare and almost always occurs when alcohol is the solvent used. Most of the
time, any of the solvents can be used with the crop you wish to propagate.
The reasons hormones are used when stem rooting cuttings are: 1) to make rooting
possible when too little natural hormone exists, 2) to increase the percentage of rooting,
3) to increase the number of roots per cutting and 4) to have cuttings root more rapidly
and thereby shorten the length of time you need to keep your stem cutting alive before it
can support itself.
Research has shown that if you apply too high a concentration of hormone, it can be as
bad as not using any hormone at all. Stem tissue can be killed by too much hormone or
using the wrong form of rooting compound. The end of the stem will often turn black
when this happens and, if there is any rooting, it takes place above the dead, black stems.
(This blackened end of the stem can also happen when the bottom of the cutting is too
wet.) Too high a hormone concentration has also been implicated in keeping plants from
ever breaking buds and growing so they root but never grow new shoots again.
Therefore, it is important to use the lowest concentration of rooting hormones that will
give you the maximum percentage rooting and number of roots per cutting. Lists of
suggested levels of rooting hormones can be found in the listed reference books. These
books will also tell whether other propagators have had more success using NAA or IBA
or a combination of the two and whether the success was with a powder or liquid
formulation and often which formulation worked best.
Rooting hormones should always be applied to a freshly cut stem so you will either need
to hormone treat when you are collecting cuttings from stock plants or re-cut when
preparing cuttings for sticking. Rooting hormones are much more readily absorbed
before plants begin to scab over or heal a cut. In addition, for many woody plants, a
liquid formulation has been successful at a much lower concentration than a powder
formulation. For example, 2500 ppm IBA in a liquid has shown similar or better results
than an 8000-ppm powder when both hormone formulations produced good quality
rooted cuttings.
Powders are usually best used as they come from the manufacturer. Remove the amount
you expect to use then seal the container and put it away. Do not stick cuttings directly
into the container as you may contaminate it with microbes that can reduce the
effectiveness of the powder within the container. For the same reason, do not return
unused rooting powders to their original container.
Liquid formulations often arrive in a concentrated form that needs dilution. Suggestions
in reference books may be for 2500 ppm, 5,000 ppm or 10,000 ppm but the label lists the
active ingredients in percentages. 1% is equal to 10,000 ppm. Therefore, if you need
2500 ppm, use 1/4 of your 1% solution and 3/4 of whatever you are using to dilute which
is often water. 2500 ppm is 0.25 or 1/4 percent. 5000 ppm is 0.5 or 1/2 percent.
Again, for sanitation purposes, only prepare as much rooting solution as you need. Never
stick cuttings into the original container and do not return unused dilute rooting solution
to the original container.
Rooting hormones last longest if they are kept in their original containers and stored at
room temperature or under refrigeration. Keep them out of direct sunlight and heat when
storing them and they can remain effective for years.​

Some Commercially Available Rooting Compounds*
Product Name % Active Ingredient Liquid or Powder​

C – Mone 1.0 to 2.0 IBA Liquid
C – Mone K 1.0 IBA Liquid
C-Mone Plus 1.0 IBA plus
0.5 NAA
Liquid
Dip n Grow 1.0 IBA plus
0.5 NAA
Liquid
Woods Rooting Compound 1.0 IBA plus
0.54 NAA
Liquid
Hormex 0.1 to 4.5 IBA Powder
Hormodin 0.1 to 0.8 IBA Powder
Hormo-Root 0.1 to 2.0 IBA plus
15% Thiram
Powder​

*Adapted from NC Agricultural Chemicals Manual

 

[KAOSOWNER]

here is another good read about making your own with a weeping willow tree bark or leaves, it has to be ok to consume i would think
Making Your Own Rooting Hormone

 

[shenagen]

George Cervantes Medical Growers Bible, page 46 where he lists a bunch of rooting hormones it says:

"Warning! Some products are not recommended for use with edible plants. Read the label carefully before deciding to use a product."

Of course on that same page where he's listing the hormones he lists Clonex. I bought a bottle and it says on the label:

"This product is not intended for use on food crop sites"

So WTF?? Why does he have that hormone listed? I don't know .... and some people think Cervantes is full of shit.... so I thought I'd ask here and see what others thoughts are on this issue.

I am curious about the outcome of this clone solution thing. I use hormex and clonex...soak in hormex 1 min and dip into gel after. Jorge can not be trusted with detailed things like this. I used to think he was golden, but he is NOT. Another example of his missinformation is with baking soda. In his book(and Van Patten's) he says baking soda can be used for mildew...true. Whats not true, and so incredibly careless is that for the mixing instructions he recomends a "saturated" mixture of baking soda and water. I don't know about you, but my friends and I (remembering from school) know that a saturated mixture is one that has the most possible amount of mix before it falls out of solution.......well that couldn't be more wrong. The dose is more like 1 tsp(i think...still trying to find out for sure) per gall. That kind of stuff can really mess up some people.

 

[KAOSOWNER]

can you explain what i do with a plastic bag and a small clone?

I was going to just plant my clone in a solo cup filled with perlite and then water down....maybe put plastic over top of cup?

please i want to do this right

pure perlite could work but i would at least use 50/50 perlite/vermiculite, or even better just vermiculite, then during first transplant you can put it in a soil, perlite mix. also keep moist at all times not wet, and you can start letting it dry out once you transplant

 

[lorenzo08]

here is another good read about making your own with a weeping willow tree bark or leaves, it has to be ok to consume i would think Making Your Own Rooting Hormone

is there a way to make a rock wool alternative? I think fiberglass isolation might be similar, but I don't think I'd want to use it for growing. what about the stringy tree bark or something? corn husks? something stringy like that, and make it into sorta a tight nest for the young plant. do any of those things have chemicals in them that could harm the plants?

 

[KAOSOWNER]

i wouldnt use fiberglass, but i am sure something like the other ideas could work i would think anything that holds water consistently could work but if it soaks it woould be no good you just want it moist, maybe something like cat tails could work.

 

[darknezz]

When at first I just cut some holes in a cubical plastic container and threw an air stone in and it rooted my cuttings in 20-30 days nothing added. Then added some K-L-N and it rooted in under 20 days. After this went straight to CloneX with advice from a friend. It is awsome! Just cut dip and under 10 days their rooted, of course in a humidity dome or whatever, and I use the peat pod things to stick them in. As far as it not being safe to eat... I really can't believe that little bit of cloning solution has any effect on a plants final product. Plus were usually not eating it and as far as the price, I think $20 is worth it for a bottle that lasts a year, depending I guess, for something that works so good.

 

[KAOSOWNER]

yeah i hear you on not worrying about it, but there has to be reason for the labeling. My Shultz, TakeRoot does not have that warning i i paid 7$ and all my clones are rooted in 5 - 14 days unless it was a cutting from a flowering plant then it can take 3 weeks or longer

 

[Florida Girl]

Today I called Hydrodynamics International; they are the company that makes the Clonex Rooting Compound product.

I talked to someone there and asked why their product is labeled 'not recommended for use on food crops'. The answer I got is that the label is simply a way to pacify the EPA. Apparently the EPA is concerned with farmers growing large food crops and buying large volumes of this product and having tons of it seeping down into the ground water. The guy told me that compared to any pesticides and herbicides the clonex product doesn't even compare in terms of potential contamination to the ground water.

I asked the guy "ok so then there is nothing in the product that the roots absorb and put in the plant that would make a person sick from eating the plant or smoking it?" He got a chuckle out of that... but he answered "No" he further went on to say that the product contains the same hormones a plant creates naturally from within.

He told me "We only put that on the label to satisfy the EPA, if they told us to put a picture of Bozo the Clown on the label then we probably would to keep them happy and avoid any conflicts with them".

In my mind this answers the question to my satisfaction. I'm going to continue using the Clonex product.

 

[shenagen]

Haha...thats crazy....it makes a lot of sense though....figured it was something like that. Way to research!!

 

[joetbay]

noobie here, but why dont you just phone your local nursery and ask them if they sell hormone, they should and its guaranteed to be better stuff then what you would get at walmart