...All Things Vero...

[BigYellowCob]

I am on a budget but I want to get the right setup and be done with it. If I have to wait a little longer, so be it. You can post different opinions. It doesn't have to be an arguement. Thanks for everyone's help. If any of you guys was in my shoes, which setup will you guys choose?

I'm running 3 Vero 29s 3000k (plus 6 blue mono leds) on a HLG-120H-C1050, but like Canadian1 mentioned on the last page the driver will work great with 4 Vero 29s too. My space is similar in size (around 4 sq ft), and I've been pretty happy with the setup. If I were to build it over again, I'd stick with the same power supply but go with 4 Vero 29 4000k (truth be told I'd go with 4 CXB3590 3500k CD cobs, but that would double the cost of the LEDs.). You can see my setup in the link in my sig if you want.

 

[Rahz]

The softer I run the cobs the higher the par watts I get the less heat watts I get. Did I get that correct?

It will be less par watts running softer but better efficiency. Running harder will always result in more light/par but less efficiency.

None of the lower wattage drivers have great efficiency but efficiency doesn't affect the light output, only the amount of electricity used. I've built several Vero lamps with single drivers and always used the PLM series. PLM-40-1050 would run a Vero 18 at it's test current. 87% efficient and push clamp terminals. Combine that with molex ez-mate connectors and wiring is a snap.

 

[CanadianONE]

Do you already have the V18? If not I would suggest the V29s. 2 V18@ 50 watts each is 11500 lumen. 2 V29@ 50 each is 14200 lumen. This means you would need 23.5 more watts with the V18 to have the same lumen output. You could do 2 V29s with a CEN100-36 (must be ran in parallel) and later add 2 more to the set-up to get one COB over each square foot. Should only cost about $140.

In this post you suggested 2?

If you reread my post, you will see I recommended 4 V 29s, not 2. He sounded like he had a tight budget and the same understanding I did a year ago. No big deal. Like GG said everything you look up is in lumens. I also recommended the constant voltage driver because it is easier to increase efficiency at a set voltage, no special math. The driver will deliver only so many watts, with 1 or 100, as long as your are in it's voltage range.

 

[LeMrMagu]

@LeMrMagu

link for your 12v 1a driver....CV I am assuming for the fan?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/330771714211?_trksid=p2050601.m570.l5999&_trkparms=gh1g=I330771714211.N36.S2.R8.TR11
theres 12w and 18w versions, but im sure that they push less than label says

 

[CanadianONE]

It will be less par watts running softer but better efficiency. Running harder will always result in more light/par but less efficiency.

Looking at my previous post your statment isn't always true as in this case you actually end up with more par watts running softer.

Vero 18 4000K @ 2.1A 33.81% efficiency x 2 = 131 dissipated watts (44.29 par watts / 86.71 heat watts) EDIT: 14,279 lumens

Vero 18 4000K @ 1.05A 40.55% efficiency x 4 = 122.32 dissipated watts (49.6 par watts / 72.72 heat watts) 16,000 lumens

 

[Rahz]

I was referring to any particular cob or set of cobs, it's always true. Adding more cobs changes things of course.

 

[Greengenes707]

In this post you suggested 2?

Re-read the end

 

[array]

It will be less par watts running softer but better efficiency. Running harder will always result in more light/par but less efficiency.

None of the lower wattage drivers have great efficiency but efficiency doesn't affect the light output, only the amount of electricity used. I've built several Vero lamps with single drivers and always used the PLM series. PLM-40-1050 would run a Vero 18 at it's test current. 87% efficient and push clamp terminals. Combine that with molex ez-mate connectors and wiring is a snap.

I like where your head's at with them push clamp terminals on the driver. I am buying the ez mates as well, 18" long

 

[array]

Any of you guys use the self tapping screws to attach the cobs to the heatsinks? Which size works well on Arctic Alpine 11 plus? I'm getting the cob holders as well. I also got some wago 222 connectors. Any suggestions on heat shrink tubing to place over the wagos that keeps it real tight? I'm trying to do everything I can to make it safe and sturdy.

 

[CanadianONE]

Re-read the end

Yes I got that, But I am talking about the setup for right now not the future. I do agree the V29's I think would be the better option in the long run. Anyway not arguing just stating opinions lol Have a great day everyone.

 

[array]

Yes I got that, But I am talking about the setup for right now not the future. I do agree the V29's I think would be the better option in the long run. Anyway not arguing just stating opinions lol Have a great day everyone.

Hi CanadianONE. Thanks for all your help. I'm looking at the V29s. Will it be a good fit powering them on LPC-60-1050 or is it better on LPC-60-1400? How much will that differ than running four V29s on the HLG-120-C1050A?

I'm only trying to light a 2x2 area.

 

[qwerkus]

Don't know if it has been asked before: where do you get your Vero chips when living in Europe ? Do you go through ali resellers ?

 

[Abiqua]

Hi CanadianONE. Thanks for all your help. I'm looking at the V29s. Will it be a good fit powering them on LPC-60-1050 or is it better on LPC-60-1400? How much will that differ than running four V29s on the HLG-120-C1050A?

I'm only trying to light a 2x2 area.

It will cost you more and the HLG is technically more efficient than the LPC series...4x V29 on a HLG 120 is still 37.7 watts to each cob @45.5% efficiency

This is my personal choice for a 2x2 or the HLG 185....

 

[array]

It will cost you more and the HLG is technically more efficient than the LPC series...4x V29 on a HLG 120 is still 37.7 watts to each cob @45.5% efficiency

This is my personal choice for a 2x2 or the HLG 185....

It will be a little more with the individual drivers but I can get 2 now and 2 later, which works well for me. My concern is, am I loosing on efficiency and potential light and pars and everything there is, by going the individual drivers way and how much is the lost?
The individual drivers, are they a good pick for a single V29 or is there better ones?

 

[PurpleBuz]

It will be a little more with the individual drivers but I can get 2 now and 2 later, which works well for me. My concern is, am I loosing on efficiency and potential light and pars and everything there is, by going the individual drivers way and how much is the lost?
The individual drivers, are they a good pick for a single V29 or is there better ones?

the hlg drivers are more efficient , higher quality, and carry a 7 year warranty . Considering they are cheaper than a bunch of individual drivers .....

 

[LeMrMagu]

Don't know if it has been asked before: where do you get your Vero chips when living in Europe ? Do you go through ali resellers ?

http://kingbriteled.en.alibaba.com/ many peole buy it from kingbrite (i did and i live in uk) and mouser and other places..

Any of you guys use the self tapping screws to attach the cobs to the heatsinks? Which size works well on Arctic Alpine 11 plus? I'm getting the cob holders as well. I also got some wago 222 connectors. Any suggestions on heat shrink tubing to place over the wagos that keeps it real tight? I'm trying to do everything I can to make it safe and sturdy.

i think pc heatsink alluminium is too thick, but you can use intel i3/i5/i7 heatsink and mount it with wood screews as i did

 

[werm11]

Any of you guys use the self tapping screws to attach the cobs to the heatsinks? Which size works well on Arctic Alpine 11 plus? I'm getting the cob holders as well. I also got some wago 222 connectors. Any suggestions on heat shrink tubing to place over the wagos that keeps it real tight? I'm trying to do everything I can to make it safe and sturdy.

Hey man this is something I completely over thought on my first build. You won't find #4 or smaller self tapping screws...at least I never could. What I did was get #4 machine screws or sheet metal screws at the desired length. Just slowly drill a pilot hole first using a lubricant and go back and forth and slowly drill the screw in the same way so you don't break it. Works great for me. I wouldn't use wood screws like someone before me suggested but they may work I don't know

 

[CanadianONE]

It will be a little more with the individual drivers but I can get 2 now and 2 later, which works well for me. My concern is, am I loosing on efficiency and potential light and pars and everything there is, by going the individual drivers way and how much is the lost?
The individual drivers, are they a good pick for a single V29 or is there better ones?

The efficiency of the driver doesn't affect the light output it just means your using a little more AC power to achieve the required DC power (more power loss in the driver circuit) which leads to more heat being produced and using more electricity. But unless your pinching pennies the difference won't be very noticeable IMO Look at what's most important right now startup cost or efficiency and make your choice based on that. Many guys running single drivers out there and are happy.

 

[Abiqua]

Any of you guys use the self tapping screws to attach the cobs to the heatsinks? Which size works well on Arctic Alpine 11 plus? I'm getting the cob holders as well. I also got some wago 222 connectors. Any suggestions on heat shrink tubing to place over the wagos that keeps it real tight? I'm trying to do everything I can to make it safe and sturdy.

I just picked up a set of 100 / M3 x 6mm Self Tapping Allens
Here is the original seller [They were $4 shipped] but I can't find them personally....
http://www.ebay.com/sch/m.html?_odkw=&_sac=1&_ssn=regan0331&hash=item28041f12ee&item=171867837166&LH_BIN=1&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2046732.m570.l1313.TR12.TRC2.A0.H0.Xm3 x .TRS0&_nkw=m3 x 6&_sacat=0

Here is a set I found, but spendy....M3 is the equivalent of #4 and I like this size [6mm] for mounting Vero 18/29's and the CXB3070/3590's...
www.ebay.com/itm/100-M3-x-6mm-8-8-Grade-Alloy-Steel-Hexagon-Socket-Cap-Head-Self-Tapping-Screw-/23161a5133625?hash=item35ed5677b9

Here is a more general search....try to find Button head/Pan Heads
www.ebay.com/itm/100-M3-x-6mm-8-8-Grade-Alloy-Steel-Hexagon-Socket-Cap-Head-Self-Tapping-Screw-/23161a5133625?hash=item35ed5677b9

Also when buying self tapping screws, you need tails if doing blind holes aka holes with a bottom, try and watch out for "cut tails" or "cross hatch"...DONT want those

 

[brettsog]

I just picked up a set of 100 / M3 x 6mm Self Tapping Allens
Here is the original seller [They were $4 shipped] but I can't find them personally....
http://www.ebay.com/sch/m.html?_odkw=&_sac=1&_ssn=regan0331&hash=item28041f12ee&item=171867837166&LH_BIN=1&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2046732.m570.l1313.TR12.TRC2.A0.H0.Xm3 x .TRS0&_nkw=m3 x 6&_sacat=0

Here is a set I found, but spendy....M3 is the equivalent of #4 and I like this size [6mm] for mounting Vero 18/29's and the CXB3070/3590's...
www.ebay.com/itm/100-M3-x-6mm-8-8-Grade-Alloy-Steel-Hexagon-Socket-Cap-Head-Self-Tapping-Screw-/23161a5133625?hash=item35ed5677b9

Here is a more general search....try to find Button head/Pan Heads
www.ebay.com/itm/100-M3-x-6mm-8-8-Grade-Alloy-Steel-Hexagon-Socket-Cap-Head-Self-Tapping-Screw-/23161a5133625?hash=item35ed5677b9

Also when buying self tapping screws, you need tails if doing blind holes aka holes with a bottom, try and watch out for "cut tails" or "cross hatch"...DONT want those

They are called tek bolts in UK or tek screws. At least that's what I know them as.