Nitrogen Toxicity? (First Grow)

Mad Farmer DeeJ said:
They are not too small to fertilize. Just be aware that every fertilizer company recommends a dosage rate way to high for young plants. They do it to sell more.. and trust me i work for one of the largest soil and fertilizer companies in the u.s. I would recommend feeding with half the recommend rate at first and slowly building up to full dosage..

I would guess your problem is simple. do a light flush and let them dry out. then feed em real light and slowly build up.. the fungus gnat issue isn't really an issue they are a pest but not a huge issue.. don't stress your plants trying to get rid of them. do it slowly they will go away. and on your next run just use preventive measures… I would recommend gnatrol. your all good though man dont trip.. it will all work it self out...
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Too young is never really the issue except maybe a seedling...but also soil depending u shouldn't water at transplant as well... If ur using a soil with nutrients or perlite or peat moss or anything like that u use regular water first few feeding to flush out or ull get burn...starting with a half or quarter dose feedings and building up is a great advice tho
 
daloudpack said:
Not sure what ya mean but regardless drying ur soil out is the only way to get rid of the larvae ..in fact eggs can take 2 weeks to hatch obviously uve never had a severe gnat problem .if he's not using any benies I doubt he has any growing. Better to kill the bad then worry about the non existent good.do it right the first time don't go half added yes its work but its the cure lol.... But that's my opinion and everyone has o be
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drying your soil is not the only way to get rid of larvae…… I can't even express how untrue that is..
Also if you have any organic materials at all in your soil there is bennies present. Especially if your soil is amended with compost… You don't have to add bennies for them to be there.. thats just a rumor sort of thing started by all these mycorrhizae companies.. Bennies are naturally found in soil and when you give them food i.e. any organic matter at all they multiply… and the grower said he wants organic so i assume he wants alllll the bennies he could have...
 
daloudpack said:
Too young is never really the issue except maybe a seedling...but also soil depending u shouldn't water at transplant as well... If ur using a soil with nutrients or perlite or peat moss or anything like that u use regular water first few feeding to flush out or ull get burn...starting with a half or quarter dose feedings and building up is a great advice tho
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I do agree with the don't fertilize when transplanting due to fresh fertility in the new soil. Although you said "don't water when transplanting" i think this is what you meant. most soil manufactures like the one i work for will have a 14-21 day fert package.. This means the soil has everything the plant needs for about 14-21 days of growing after that you should feed.
 
Night as well farm worms and bats
Mad Farmer DeeJ said:
I do agree with the don't fertilize when transplanting due to fresh fertility in the new soil. Although you said "don't water when transplanting" i think this is what you meant. most soil manufactures like the one i work for will have a 14-21 day fert package.. This means the soil has everything the plant needs for about 14-21 days of growing after that you should feed.
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Ur correct I did mean don't feed nutes
 
daloudpack said:
Again mg is not organic if ur gonna go organic stop going half ass
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It was kind of a spur of the moment thing deciding to grow. I bought a lot of my supplies after the fact as the need arose. Not everyone wants drop the cash in Fox Farms soil especially when there isnt anywhere that carries it near me.
 
daloudpack said:
Hydrogen peroxiced will increase ur root health if u have any rot or pythium from the larvae or bacteria...but what ever
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That is true.. Bennies will also clean that up. Im not saying don't use peroxide. i just don't recommend to new growers.. I feel building good soil life with bennies and using biological controls like predator mites(which is what i use now for my fungus gnat problem) and biological funguses like Gnatrol is first step. peroxide is back up if all else fails. fight nature with nature if that fails, do what MAN does best. step in with some chemicals.... and by the way hydrogen peroxide is very safe at diluted levels it is literally just hydrogen and oxygen..as it breaks down it releases oxygen into air and hydrogen back into water…. Do be cautious around anything with higher then 3% peroxide though...
 
I use fertilome ultimate its pH buffering . they sell it at my local country feed store is 15 dollars for a huge bag.by organic I meant mixing ur own raising worms adding bone meal oyster shells and all that other confusing shit I'll never do ....brewing compost and all that other. Shit ....I'm guessing u have know idea what any of that shit means or how much work it is why try to grow organic if ur not growing organic lol.... Go for what's easy and effective
 
daloudpack said:
Fox farms runs hot I wouldn't reccomend it anyways.
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100% Agreee!!! thats the problem right there…
first off they have a fungus gnat problems in there soil products and its always sold way to soon.
The company I work for ages our bags of soil up to two months to let them cure and "cool down" fox farm doesn't give a shit.. I don't know why people like them… honestly fox farm is shit imo
 
daloudpack said:
I use fertilome ultimate its pH buffering . they sell it at my local country feed store is 15 dollars for a huge bag.by organic I meant mixing ur own raising worms adding bone meal oyster shells and all that other confusing shit I'll never do ....brewing compost and all that other. Shit ....I'm guessing u have know idea what any of that shit means or how much work it is why try to grow organic if ur not growing organic lol.... Go for what's easy and effective
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I'll give it a try next time around. Live and learn gnomesayin'?
 
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