xox

Well-Known Member
yea i got a large box fan in the corner and an oscillating fan infront with a 6" air cooled hood. air conditioning would be nice this time of year. theres a temp probe in the top of the canopy its just hard to see. yea that one in the corner that looks a bit burnt has been giving me problems since day one, i think its a genetic thing. This is maby my sixth run with this variety i find the ones that lean a bit towards the sativa tend to do that its quete annoying.
 

xox

Well-Known Member
another update, plants seem to be doing alright. going to put them in larger pots soon. turns out some of the plants that i thought looked like mutants were pretty normal. although 2 plants sprouted a bit late and ended up being trifoliate. on a side note most of the plants look very homogenous except for one it seems to be slower growing and more indica dominant. im hoping the more indica dominant plant will end up being female i'll probably clone that for a mother plant later on. :joint:

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xox

Well-Known Member
another update topped most of the plants except for the trifoliate and the most indica dominant plant. also put the plants into larger pots. the one plant that was the farthest along got hungry i assume a little calcium deficient i fed all the plants some ferts im using advanced nutrients three part fertilizer grow,bloom, and micro at ph 6.5. i dont think the one plant has gotten any worse we shall see i suppose. 1.JPG 2.JPG 3.JPG 4.JPG
 

xox

Well-Known Member
the plants seem to have responded well to being topped there definitely starting to take off theres definitely a few different pheno types ranging from sativa-indica longer node spacing, sativa-indica short node spacing to very indica dominant its to bad i don't know what the Purple Urkle clones look like. still dealing with some sort of nutrient deficiency i'm assuming its either a) because i added more perilite it screwed up the amount of dolomite lime in my premixed soil causing the the ph to go down. or b) maybe i just didn't give enough nutrients. either way i fed them more this time at ph 7.8 since last time the ph was 6.5 of the nutrients hopefully eventually i'll figure out a good range for the nutrients. if anyone cares to comment on diagnosing nutrient deficiencies and ph issues that would be appreciated. anyway i took a few picures the trifoliate is pretty cool never had one of those befor i ended up topping it as well.
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xox

Well-Known Member
well it appears i was wrong about the ph, i've done alot more reading. it seems like the perilite i added may thrown off my mix since there probably wasnt enough dolomite lime for the ph buffering. also i probably watered with the wrong ph for pro-mix bx. hopefully i can correct this. i've done a few things since i last posted. since then i've put all the plants into 5 gal pails of just promix bx with nothing added to the mix. from what i've read online i think the ideal ph range for promix is anywhere from 6.0 to 6.5. i've just gave the plants some water within the ph range and some revive from advanced nutrients.
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xox

Well-Known Member
things appear to be getting better now that i know a bit more about ph with this type of growing medium. definitely helps having a digital ph meter. the plants have almost doubled in size since last time i posted. there are at least 3 different pheno types. im looking for a dark lavender color and shortest node spacing. soon i will number all the plants and i will take cuttings and put them in an aeroponic cloning machine.
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OhpeKush

New Member
Just a curious question, are you moving your light up to take the pictures or is that your resting place?
My light is about 8 inches away from the top of my solo cup is that too close?
 

xox

Well-Known Member
thats a good question. many different factors can influence the distance of your bulb from your plants. some things to consider the size of the bulb. is the bulb in an air cooled hood or not. is the room air conditioned or not? are you using those new LEC bulbs/ballasts? also the age of the plants you don't want to burn your seedlings in solo cups. i think the best thing to do is either get a laser that tells you the temperature when pointed at your plants or a sensor probe like you see in my photo that will give you a rough idea of your canopy temperature if you don't have either of those then i would put the back of my hand under the light and if its to hot for my hand then its to hot for you plants. the idea is to get the bulb as close to your plants as possible without burning them. when the plants leaves start to cup or the edges of the leaves curl the bulb is too close. in my case i'm using a high pressure sodium bulb that is 600watts thats been converted to emit the spectrum of light that you would normally get from a metal halide bulb since metal halide bulbs only come in 250,400,1000 wattages. so the bulb burns a bit hotter than a metal halide normally would. my hood is air cooled but i've been having some hot weather lately and i haven't been able to bring the bulb to close to the plants yet i don't wish to exceed a canopy temperature of 75 degrees Fahrenheit. also i found this photo on the internet i might have saved it from this forum or maby a website i saw it has an excellent chart for lumens and bulb distance based on size.
MH_Light_Distance_Chart.jpg HPS-Light-Distance-Chart.jpg
 

OhpeKush

New Member
thats a good question. many different factors can influence the distance of your bulb from your plants. some things to consider the size of the bulb. is the bulb in an air cooled hood or not. is the room air conditioned or not? are you using those new LEC bulbs/ballasts? also the age of the plants you don't want to burn your seedlings in solo cups. i think the best thing to do is either get a laser that tells you the temperature when pointed at your plants or a sensor probe like you see in my photo that will give you a rough idea of your canopy temperature if you don't have either of those then i would put the back of my hand under the light and if its to hot for my hand then its to hot for you plants. the idea is to get the bulb as close to your plants as possible without burning them. when the plants leaves start to cup or the edges of the leaves curl the bulb is too close. in my case i'm using a high pressure sodium bulb that is 600watts thats been converted to emit the spectrum of light that you would normally get from a metal halide bulb since metal halide bulbs only come in 250,400,1000 wattages. so the bulb burns a bit hotter than a metal halide normally would. my hood is air cooled but i've been having some hot weather lately and i haven't been able to bring the bulb to close to the plants yet i don't wish to exceed a canopy temperature of 75 degrees Fahrenheit. also i found this photo on the internet i might have saved it from this forum or maby a website i saw it has an excellent chart for lumens and bulb distance based on size.
View attachment 3833752 View attachment 3833753
Wow awesome answer my man, really appreciate that! I'm learning as I go here but clearly I still have alot to learn.
Gotta start somewhere right?
Awesome grow btw, cant wait to see the end
 

xox

Well-Known Member
thanks ohpekush. well another update. yesturday i cut all the clones and put them in a botanicare power cloner 45 and numbered all the pots. today i flipped the lights the canopy looks full enough to go ahead and start flowering. things are going not to bad i suppose.
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Clones start date : Wed, Nov 23rd
Flip start date : Thur, Nov 24th
 

xox

Well-Known Member
things are moving along, some of the plants are starting to show there sex. clones aren't doing to bad no wilting i really like these aeroponic cloning machines almost never see clones wilt. although i may have had my fluorescent light a tad to close to the dome a couple clones the leaves cupped a bit. i've since added a sensor with a suction cup inside the dome to tell the temperature and humidity hopefully prevent that from happening again.

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xox

Well-Known Member
well another week has gone by and things seem to be moving along. most if not all of the pheno's i liked ended up turning out to be male except for one plant with a very short node spacing. the only plant that was very very indica dominant was also male. so i've decided to chuck some pollen considering at almost $10-$15 bucks a bean it doesnt make sense to not chuck pollen if you don't find something you like thats dank and turns dark purple. so hopefully i get a few hundred seeds. im going to let the indica dominant plant pollenate the others. turned out to be a 50/50 split out of 12 plants i ended up with 6 females and 6 males. the clones are doing alright starting to yellow a bit but some root growth is starting probably another 1-2 weeks until i see lots of roots in the cloner. here are some pics my camera skills are terrible aha.
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xox

Well-Known Member
another update, the male is getting large now some flowers have opened put him in front of the fan hopefully get lots of pollen floating around get lots of beans. the clones are quete slow in the cloning machine this time. last time i used it i must have had optimum conditions because i didnt see any yellowing and no wilting whatsoever and by now all my clones were in solo cups. i've decided to change the water and nutrients in the cloning machine and let it keep going because there is root development happening just not as prolific as last time. might as well stay the course. starting to get some flower development as well.

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