Colloidal silver solution feminized seeds
- Thread starter White boy in hawaii
- Start date
and they are using up food faster now
sandhill larry
Well-Known Member
Thanks. Good info there.
Decepticon
Well-Known Member
It's worked for me pretty great I used it one season and I've haven't had a need to buy new fem seeds other than to have different strains to breed with
goldberg71b
Well-Known Member
Plan ahead have distilled water and CS generator on hand and of course 99.9% silver. As long as you use rechargeable batteries making your own is cheap! If it doesn't work you are doing something wrong. ( usually not spraying with strong enough solution or not doing it on a regular basis.) I spray mine just as the lights are turning off. Then I spray them again while the lights are out. I do this as late as I can and still have the plants dry as the light come on. It's really as simple as that. I'm not trying to be mean. It just the truth it absolutely works.
Vnsmkr
Well-Known Member
COLLOIDAL SILVER
There is another way to get “female” pollen.
A way that is guaranteed to work and a way that is far quicker than waiting for the old lady to panic.
The application of Colloidal Silver to a female plant will “trick” the plant into believing that it is a male and it will then produce “male” flowers, the pollen from which will produce female seeds.
This “trickery” has nothing to do with stress, nothing to do with self-preservation and certainly nothing to do with hermaphrodites. In terms that I barely understand, the silver molecules in the Colloidal Silver bind with copper molecules in the bud sites. The copper is used for ethylene production in female plants which tells the plant to produce female flowers – as the copper is tied up with the silver, the ethylene is not produced and the plant thinks it’s male – maybe “male” is the default setting.
Colloidal Silver is simply silver molecules suspended in water.
Colloidal Silver is very easy to make and very inexpensive.
To make Colloidal Silver you need to pass a small DC current through water using 99.99% pure silver as the electrodes (really only need silver on the positive electrode, but stoners need as little to go wrong as possible).
My Colloidal Silver generator consists of an old Nokia phone charger. The plug was removed, wires stripped and 2 small alligator clips crimped on (no soldering needed).
I bought two tiny (1 gram) silver ingots from eBay, cost slightly less than fuck-all after postage. These are clipped to the alligator clips and partially submerged in a glass of Demineralised Water (found in the cleaning products aisle in your supermarket)
Make sure that the alligator clips are not in the water, plug in the charger and leave for about 12 hours in a dark place (silver reacts with light).
In the original thread there was some discussion about the strength of the Colloidal Silver, whether particle size mattered, whether higher currents produce it quicker – personally my view is that nothing really matters except whether or not it works.
I don’t know why people need to know how many parts per million of silver is best – if something costs very little and it works a charm, then why change it.
Not having a PPM meter doesn’t mean you can’t tell when there are suspended silver molecules in the water – just shine a laser pointer through the water and if you see a red line, you are good to go.
The red line you see is the Tyndall Effect where the light bounces off the suspended silver.
….
So, once you have your Colloidal Silver … what next.
Simply spray the CS onto the part of the plant that you want to turn “male”, start spraying a couple of days before switching to 12/12 and continue daily until you have harvested your pollen.
I suggest spraying until the pollen is collected as I have noticed that if you stop the CS application, as the plant grows it may revert back to female and produce non-viable pollen.
The following photos show my first experiment with Colloidal Silver.
My experiment involved three clones from a female grown from a Barney’s Farm Red Dragon feminised seed.
All three clones were the same age however the two outside ones had already been under 12/12 light for a few days and would be the “females” with the plant in the middle being forced to grow “male” flowers.
The above photos were taken on 9th November.
17 days later, the two females were well into budding while the “male” was not budding but wasn’t showing male flowers either.
In this next photo you can see the pistils are starting to brown off and not be replaced, but no male flowers yet.
However, a week later on 2nd December the story was different and I was confident that the plant was now in full male flower production.
As the “male” flowers developed and ripened I removed the flowers (before the pollen was dropped) and collected them in a small plastic bag.
When I had enough pollen I started applying it to the females – pollen was applied from 11th December to 15th December. The next photos were taken on 14th December and you can see how the pistils have browned off after receiving pollen.
And to show you just how huge the plants are, here is a photo of the “male” plant on 16th December.
It is obvious that making a tiny clone produce pollen is a lot easier than pushing an old girl into extreme old age for the same result.
A few days later (20th December) and magic has happened – swollen calyxes show that pollination was successful.
… and by 7th January the girlz were heavily pregnant and about to drop their babies.
There is another way to get “female” pollen.
A way that is guaranteed to work and a way that is far quicker than waiting for the old lady to panic.
The application of Colloidal Silver to a female plant will “trick” the plant into believing that it is a male and it will then produce “male” flowers, the pollen from which will produce female seeds.
This “trickery” has nothing to do with stress, nothing to do with self-preservation and certainly nothing to do with hermaphrodites. In terms that I barely understand, the silver molecules in the Colloidal Silver bind with copper molecules in the bud sites. The copper is used for ethylene production in female plants which tells the plant to produce female flowers – as the copper is tied up with the silver, the ethylene is not produced and the plant thinks it’s male – maybe “male” is the default setting.
Colloidal Silver is simply silver molecules suspended in water.
Colloidal Silver is very easy to make and very inexpensive.
To make Colloidal Silver you need to pass a small DC current through water using 99.99% pure silver as the electrodes (really only need silver on the positive electrode, but stoners need as little to go wrong as possible).
My Colloidal Silver generator consists of an old Nokia phone charger. The plug was removed, wires stripped and 2 small alligator clips crimped on (no soldering needed).
I bought two tiny (1 gram) silver ingots from eBay, cost slightly less than fuck-all after postage. These are clipped to the alligator clips and partially submerged in a glass of Demineralised Water (found in the cleaning products aisle in your supermarket)
Make sure that the alligator clips are not in the water, plug in the charger and leave for about 12 hours in a dark place (silver reacts with light).
In the original thread there was some discussion about the strength of the Colloidal Silver, whether particle size mattered, whether higher currents produce it quicker – personally my view is that nothing really matters except whether or not it works.
I don’t know why people need to know how many parts per million of silver is best – if something costs very little and it works a charm, then why change it.
Not having a PPM meter doesn’t mean you can’t tell when there are suspended silver molecules in the water – just shine a laser pointer through the water and if you see a red line, you are good to go.
The red line you see is the Tyndall Effect where the light bounces off the suspended silver.
….
So, once you have your Colloidal Silver … what next.
Simply spray the CS onto the part of the plant that you want to turn “male”, start spraying a couple of days before switching to 12/12 and continue daily until you have harvested your pollen.
I suggest spraying until the pollen is collected as I have noticed that if you stop the CS application, as the plant grows it may revert back to female and produce non-viable pollen.
The following photos show my first experiment with Colloidal Silver.
My experiment involved three clones from a female grown from a Barney’s Farm Red Dragon feminised seed.
All three clones were the same age however the two outside ones had already been under 12/12 light for a few days and would be the “females” with the plant in the middle being forced to grow “male” flowers.
The above photos were taken on 9th November.
17 days later, the two females were well into budding while the “male” was not budding but wasn’t showing male flowers either.
In this next photo you can see the pistils are starting to brown off and not be replaced, but no male flowers yet.
However, a week later on 2nd December the story was different and I was confident that the plant was now in full male flower production.
As the “male” flowers developed and ripened I removed the flowers (before the pollen was dropped) and collected them in a small plastic bag.
When I had enough pollen I started applying it to the females – pollen was applied from 11th December to 15th December. The next photos were taken on 14th December and you can see how the pistils have browned off after receiving pollen.
And to show you just how huge the plants are, here is a photo of the “male” plant on 16th December.
It is obvious that making a tiny clone produce pollen is a lot easier than pushing an old girl into extreme old age for the same result.
A few days later (20th December) and magic has happened – swollen calyxes show that pollination was successful.
… and by 7th January the girlz were heavily pregnant and about to drop their babies.
Vnsmkr
Well-Known Member
STS
ATTENTION!!! ALWAYS ORDER SEPARATELY FROM TWO DIFFERENT SOURCES!!! YOU HAVE BEEN NOTIFIED
The following is a safe, inexpensive, and successful method for reversing the sex of female cannabis plants. Individual plant responses may vary based upon strain, but I can verify that this process is fully effective in stimulating profuse staminate flower production.
This process can be used to:
A: create new feminized seeds from solitary prize mothers that you currently have
B: create interesting feminized-seed hybrids from different prize strains that you currently have
C: create feminized seeds for optimum outdoor use
D: accelerate the "interview" phase of cultivation, in searching for interesting new clone-mothers
E: reduce total plant numbers- great for medical users with severe plant number restrictions
F: increase variety, by helping to create stable feminized seedlines to be used as an alternative to clones
At the bottom of this post are some specific details about the chemicals used, their safety, their cost, and where to get them.
It is important to educate yourself about cannabis breeding theory and technique prior to using a method like this one. Here is a link to Robert Clarke's "Marijuana Botany", which is a very good reference.
http://planetganja.net/Ebooks/Marijuana Botany.pdf
It is also important to use basic safety precautions when mixing and handling these chemicals, so read the safety data links provided. The risk is similar to mixing and handling chemical fertilizers, and similar handling procedures are sufficient.
Remember: nothing will ever replace good genetics, and some of your bounty should always go back towards the professional cannabis breeders out there... the ones who have worked for many generations to come up with their true-breeding F1 masterpieces. Support professional breeders by buying their seeds. Also, order from Heaven's Stairway. Not that they need a plug from me, but they are very professional and provide very fast service worldwide.
Preparation of STS:
First, a stock solution is made. It consists of two parts (A and B) that are initially mixed separately, then blended together. Part A is ALWAYS mixed into part B while stirring rapidly. Use distilled water; tap water may cause precipitates to form.
Wear gloves while mixing and using these chemicals, and mix and use in a properly ventilated area. A mask will prevent the breathing of any dust, which is caustic. STS is colorless and odorless, and poses minimal health risks if used as described here. (See material safety data sheet links below). Note that silver nitrate and STS can cause brown stains upon drying, so spray over newspaper and avoid spilling.
Part A: 0.5 gram silver nitrate stirred into 500ml distilled water
Part B: 2.5 grams sodium thiosulfate (anhydrous) stirred into 500ml distilled water
The silver nitrate dissolves within 15 seconds. The sodium thiosulfate takes 30-45 seconds to dissolve.
The silver nitrate solution (A) is then mixed into the sodium thiosulfate solution (B) while stirring rapidly. The resulting blend is stock silver thiosulfate solution (STS).
This stock solution is then diluted at a ratio of 1:9 to make a working solution. For example, 100ml of stock STS is added to 900ml of distilled water. This is then sprayed on select female plants.
Both the stock STS and the working solution should be refrigerated after use, as well as the powdered chemicals, to avoid activity loss. Excess working solution can be safely poured down the drain after use (with ample running water) with negligible environmental impact. It's pretty cheap.
Each liter of stock STS will make ten 1-liter batches of working solution of STS. With the minimum amount of base chemicals ordered from Photographer's Formulary (see link below), this means that each 1-liter bottle of working solution STS costs less than 9 cents, and can treat 15-20 mid-sized plants. That's 200 1-liter batches of STS for $18. Note that the distilled water costs far more than the chemicals.
ATTENTION!!! ALWAYS ORDER SEPARATELY FROM TWO DIFFERENT SOURCES!!! YOU HAVE BEEN NOTIFIED
The following is a safe, inexpensive, and successful method for reversing the sex of female cannabis plants. Individual plant responses may vary based upon strain, but I can verify that this process is fully effective in stimulating profuse staminate flower production.
This process can be used to:
A: create new feminized seeds from solitary prize mothers that you currently have
B: create interesting feminized-seed hybrids from different prize strains that you currently have
C: create feminized seeds for optimum outdoor use
D: accelerate the "interview" phase of cultivation, in searching for interesting new clone-mothers
E: reduce total plant numbers- great for medical users with severe plant number restrictions
F: increase variety, by helping to create stable feminized seedlines to be used as an alternative to clones
At the bottom of this post are some specific details about the chemicals used, their safety, their cost, and where to get them.
It is important to educate yourself about cannabis breeding theory and technique prior to using a method like this one. Here is a link to Robert Clarke's "Marijuana Botany", which is a very good reference.
http://planetganja.net/Ebooks/Marijuana Botany.pdf
It is also important to use basic safety precautions when mixing and handling these chemicals, so read the safety data links provided. The risk is similar to mixing and handling chemical fertilizers, and similar handling procedures are sufficient.
Remember: nothing will ever replace good genetics, and some of your bounty should always go back towards the professional cannabis breeders out there... the ones who have worked for many generations to come up with their true-breeding F1 masterpieces. Support professional breeders by buying their seeds. Also, order from Heaven's Stairway. Not that they need a plug from me, but they are very professional and provide very fast service worldwide.
Preparation of STS:
First, a stock solution is made. It consists of two parts (A and B) that are initially mixed separately, then blended together. Part A is ALWAYS mixed into part B while stirring rapidly. Use distilled water; tap water may cause precipitates to form.
Wear gloves while mixing and using these chemicals, and mix and use in a properly ventilated area. A mask will prevent the breathing of any dust, which is caustic. STS is colorless and odorless, and poses minimal health risks if used as described here. (See material safety data sheet links below). Note that silver nitrate and STS can cause brown stains upon drying, so spray over newspaper and avoid spilling.
Part A: 0.5 gram silver nitrate stirred into 500ml distilled water
Part B: 2.5 grams sodium thiosulfate (anhydrous) stirred into 500ml distilled water
The silver nitrate dissolves within 15 seconds. The sodium thiosulfate takes 30-45 seconds to dissolve.
The silver nitrate solution (A) is then mixed into the sodium thiosulfate solution (B) while stirring rapidly. The resulting blend is stock silver thiosulfate solution (STS).
This stock solution is then diluted at a ratio of 1:9 to make a working solution. For example, 100ml of stock STS is added to 900ml of distilled water. This is then sprayed on select female plants.
Both the stock STS and the working solution should be refrigerated after use, as well as the powdered chemicals, to avoid activity loss. Excess working solution can be safely poured down the drain after use (with ample running water) with negligible environmental impact. It's pretty cheap.
Each liter of stock STS will make ten 1-liter batches of working solution of STS. With the minimum amount of base chemicals ordered from Photographer's Formulary (see link below), this means that each 1-liter bottle of working solution STS costs less than 9 cents, and can treat 15-20 mid-sized plants. That's 200 1-liter batches of STS for $18. Note that the distilled water costs far more than the chemicals.
Vnsmkr
Well-Known Member
Application:
The STS working solution is sprayed on select female plants until runoff. Do the spraying over newspaper in a separate area from the flower room. You probably won't smell anything, but ventilate anyway. You now have what I call a "F>M plant"; a female plant that will produce male flowers.
After the F>M plant dries move it into 12/12 immediately. This is usually done three to four weeks prior to the date that the target (to be pollinated) plants will be ready to pollinate. Response times may vary slightly depending upon the strain. More specific times can be determined by trial with your own individual strains. In my trials it took 26 days for the first pollen. 30-35 days seems optimum for planning purposes.
So, assuming that a target plant needs 3-4 weeks to produce fully mature seeds, a strain that takes 8 weeks to mature should be moved into flower at about the same time as the female>male plant. A target plant that finishes flowering in 6 weeks needs to be moved into flower later (10 days or so) so that it doesn't finish before the seeds can fully mature.
A seeded individual branch can be left to mature on a plant for a bit longer, while harvesting the other seedless buds if they finish first. Just leave enough leaves on for the plant for it to stay healthy.
Effects:
Within days I noticed a yellowing of the leaves on the F>M plants. This effect persisted for two weeks or so; after this they became green again, except for a few of the larger fans. The plants otherwise seemed healthy. No burning was observed. Growth stopped dead for the first ten days, and then resumed slowly. No stretch was ever seen. After two weeks the F>M plants were obviously forming male flower clusters. Not just a few clusters of balls, but complete male flower tops. One plant still formed some pistillate flowers, but overall it was predominantly male.
It is strange indeed to see an old girlfriend that you know like the back of your hand go through a sex change. I'll admit that things were awkward between us at first.
When the F>M plants look like they may soon open and release pollen, ( 3-1/2 to 4 weeks) move them from the main flower room into another unventilated room or closet with lighting on a 12/12 timer. Don't worry too much about watts per square foot; it will only be temporary.
When the pollen flies, move your target plants into the closet and pollinate.
A more controlled approach is to isolate the F>M plants in a third remote closet (no light is necessary in this one, as they are releasing pollen now and are nearly finished anyway). In this remote other closet the pollen is very carefully collected in a plastic produce bag or newspaper sleeve and then brought back to the lighted closet, where the target plants are now located. If this is done, be careful to not mix pollen types by letting the F>Ms dust each other. Avoid movement, or use yet another closet.
Take special care to not let pollen gather on the outside of this bag- a static charge is sometimes present. Drop small open clusters of blooms inside and then close the bag at the mouth and shake. Important: next, step outside and slowly release the excess air from the bag, collapsing it completely, so that pollen doesn't get released accidently. Point downwind; don't let it get on your hands or clothes.
This collapsed pollinated bag is now very carefully slipped over only one branch and is then tied off tightly at the mouth around the branch stem with a twist tie or tape, sealing the pollen inside. Let the bag inflate slightly with air again before sealing it off, so the branch can breathe. This technique keeps the entire plant from seeding. Agitate the bag a bit after tying it off to distribute the pollen. Don't forget to label the branch so you know which seeds are which. Other branches on this same plant can be hit with different pollen sources.
If no lighted closet is available, the plant can be moved back into the main room, but- be very carefulollen is sneaky. After 4-5 days, the bag is gently removed and the plant completes it's flowering cycle.
Yet another method has worked well for me. I position the target plants in a non-ventilated lighted closet, and then I collect pollen on a piece of mirror or glass. This is then carefully applied to the pistils of one pre-labeled branch by using a very fine watercolor paintbrush. Care is taken to not agitate the branch or the pollen. No sneezing. The plant needs to be in place first; moving it after pollination can shake pollen free and blow this technique.
Regardless of technique, at completion you will have feminized seeds. Let them dry for 2-4 weeks.
About the chemicals:
Silver nitrate is a white crystalline light-sensitive chemical that is commonly used in photography. It is also used in babies' eyes at birth to prevent blindness. It can cause mild skin irritation, and it stains brown. Avoid breathing. I didn't notice any smell or fumes, but ventilation is recommended. Be sure to wash the spray bottle well before you use it elsewhere; better yet: devote a bottle to STS use. A half gram is a surprisingly small amount; it would fit inside a gel capsule.
.preparation of silver thiosulfate (sts) solution
silver thiosulfate (sts) is commonly used to block the action of ethylene in plant cell cultures. Ethylene is a hormone that is present in the gaseous state. Ethylene increases during senescence and ripening, and has been shown to increase in plant cell cultures due to wounding or the presence of auxins. Silver nitrate may be used alone to block the action of ethylene but it is not transported as well as sts thus is seldom used alone.
Prepare a 0.1 m sodium thiosulfate (sts) stock solution by dissolving 1.58 g of sodium thiosulfate (product no. S 620) into 100 ml of water. Prepare a 0.1 m silver nitrate stock solution by dissolving 1.7 g of silver nitrate (product no. S 169) into 100 ml of water. Store the stock solution in the dark until needed to prepare the sts.
The sts solution is prepared with a molar ratio between silver and thiosulfate of 1:4, respectively. Nearly all of the silver present in the solution is in the form of [ag (s2o3)2]3-, the active complex for ethylene effect inhibition.
Prepare a 0.02 m sts by slowly pouring 20 ml of 0.1 m silver nitrate stock solution into 80 ml of 0.1 m sodium thiosulfate stock solution. The sts can be stored in the refrigerator for up to a month. However, preparation of the sts just prior to use is recommended.
A SIMPLE SAFE AND INEXPENSIVE FEMMING METHOD
LINKS TO THE CHEMICALS:
sodium thiosulfate
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/124109-REG/Photographers_Formulary_10_1370_1LB_Sodium_Thiosulfate_Anhydrous.html
Silver Nitrate
http://secure.sciencecompany.com/Silver-Nitrate-10g-P6503.aspx
The STS working solution is sprayed on select female plants until runoff. Do the spraying over newspaper in a separate area from the flower room. You probably won't smell anything, but ventilate anyway. You now have what I call a "F>M plant"; a female plant that will produce male flowers.
After the F>M plant dries move it into 12/12 immediately. This is usually done three to four weeks prior to the date that the target (to be pollinated) plants will be ready to pollinate. Response times may vary slightly depending upon the strain. More specific times can be determined by trial with your own individual strains. In my trials it took 26 days for the first pollen. 30-35 days seems optimum for planning purposes.
So, assuming that a target plant needs 3-4 weeks to produce fully mature seeds, a strain that takes 8 weeks to mature should be moved into flower at about the same time as the female>male plant. A target plant that finishes flowering in 6 weeks needs to be moved into flower later (10 days or so) so that it doesn't finish before the seeds can fully mature.
A seeded individual branch can be left to mature on a plant for a bit longer, while harvesting the other seedless buds if they finish first. Just leave enough leaves on for the plant for it to stay healthy.
Effects:
Within days I noticed a yellowing of the leaves on the F>M plants. This effect persisted for two weeks or so; after this they became green again, except for a few of the larger fans. The plants otherwise seemed healthy. No burning was observed. Growth stopped dead for the first ten days, and then resumed slowly. No stretch was ever seen. After two weeks the F>M plants were obviously forming male flower clusters. Not just a few clusters of balls, but complete male flower tops. One plant still formed some pistillate flowers, but overall it was predominantly male.
It is strange indeed to see an old girlfriend that you know like the back of your hand go through a sex change. I'll admit that things were awkward between us at first.
When the F>M plants look like they may soon open and release pollen, ( 3-1/2 to 4 weeks) move them from the main flower room into another unventilated room or closet with lighting on a 12/12 timer. Don't worry too much about watts per square foot; it will only be temporary.
When the pollen flies, move your target plants into the closet and pollinate.
A more controlled approach is to isolate the F>M plants in a third remote closet (no light is necessary in this one, as they are releasing pollen now and are nearly finished anyway). In this remote other closet the pollen is very carefully collected in a plastic produce bag or newspaper sleeve and then brought back to the lighted closet, where the target plants are now located. If this is done, be careful to not mix pollen types by letting the F>Ms dust each other. Avoid movement, or use yet another closet.
Take special care to not let pollen gather on the outside of this bag- a static charge is sometimes present. Drop small open clusters of blooms inside and then close the bag at the mouth and shake. Important: next, step outside and slowly release the excess air from the bag, collapsing it completely, so that pollen doesn't get released accidently. Point downwind; don't let it get on your hands or clothes.
This collapsed pollinated bag is now very carefully slipped over only one branch and is then tied off tightly at the mouth around the branch stem with a twist tie or tape, sealing the pollen inside. Let the bag inflate slightly with air again before sealing it off, so the branch can breathe. This technique keeps the entire plant from seeding. Agitate the bag a bit after tying it off to distribute the pollen. Don't forget to label the branch so you know which seeds are which. Other branches on this same plant can be hit with different pollen sources.
If no lighted closet is available, the plant can be moved back into the main room, but- be very carefulollen is sneaky. After 4-5 days, the bag is gently removed and the plant completes it's flowering cycle.
Yet another method has worked well for me. I position the target plants in a non-ventilated lighted closet, and then I collect pollen on a piece of mirror or glass. This is then carefully applied to the pistils of one pre-labeled branch by using a very fine watercolor paintbrush. Care is taken to not agitate the branch or the pollen. No sneezing. The plant needs to be in place first; moving it after pollination can shake pollen free and blow this technique.
Regardless of technique, at completion you will have feminized seeds. Let them dry for 2-4 weeks.
About the chemicals:
Silver nitrate is a white crystalline light-sensitive chemical that is commonly used in photography. It is also used in babies' eyes at birth to prevent blindness. It can cause mild skin irritation, and it stains brown. Avoid breathing. I didn't notice any smell or fumes, but ventilation is recommended. Be sure to wash the spray bottle well before you use it elsewhere; better yet: devote a bottle to STS use. A half gram is a surprisingly small amount; it would fit inside a gel capsule.
.preparation of silver thiosulfate (sts) solution
silver thiosulfate (sts) is commonly used to block the action of ethylene in plant cell cultures. Ethylene is a hormone that is present in the gaseous state. Ethylene increases during senescence and ripening, and has been shown to increase in plant cell cultures due to wounding or the presence of auxins. Silver nitrate may be used alone to block the action of ethylene but it is not transported as well as sts thus is seldom used alone.
Prepare a 0.1 m sodium thiosulfate (sts) stock solution by dissolving 1.58 g of sodium thiosulfate (product no. S 620) into 100 ml of water. Prepare a 0.1 m silver nitrate stock solution by dissolving 1.7 g of silver nitrate (product no. S 169) into 100 ml of water. Store the stock solution in the dark until needed to prepare the sts.
The sts solution is prepared with a molar ratio between silver and thiosulfate of 1:4, respectively. Nearly all of the silver present in the solution is in the form of [ag (s2o3)2]3-, the active complex for ethylene effect inhibition.
Prepare a 0.02 m sts by slowly pouring 20 ml of 0.1 m silver nitrate stock solution into 80 ml of 0.1 m sodium thiosulfate stock solution. The sts can be stored in the refrigerator for up to a month. However, preparation of the sts just prior to use is recommended.
A SIMPLE SAFE AND INEXPENSIVE FEMMING METHOD
LINKS TO THE CHEMICALS:
sodium thiosulfate
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/124109-REG/Photographers_Formulary_10_1370_1LB_Sodium_Thiosulfate_Anhydrous.html
Silver Nitrate
http://secure.sciencecompany.com/Silver-Nitrate-10g-P6503.aspx
i sprayed 3 times a day with cs for 20 days. USED a bottle bought from pharmacy.was 30ppm .will try again.really over reg seeds. .cheers for the advice mate. WENT through the same thing with cloning. JUST trial and error until everything works everytime
White boy in hawaii
Well-Known Member
Well i get about 5 fem seeds growing on my purple urkle x Hawaiian skunk (urkle x H skunk has bright pink hairs) soon im going to start my regular urkle x Hawaiian skunk to make more regular seeds and i got a colloidal silver generator now so ill be able to make a stronger silver solution to get more than 5 fem seeds haha
what are the hawaiian local strains over there like ?
White boy in hawaii
Well-Known Member
There pretty good , id post a picture but the site wont let me
yeh site is crap at the moment. BET they would grow nicely with the rain and hawaiian soil
White boy in hawaii
Well-Known Member
I live in an old lava flow so its all rocks one kind of tree can grow on that and its ohia , so not much dirt where i live and i cover my plants when it rains and i cover them at night time just in case it rains
IS
IS the volcano still active on that island ?
White boy in hawaii
Well-Known Member
Yes i live on the big island , google that shit its spittin in the ocean like crazy
White boy in hawaii
Well-Known Member
Found a lot more feminized seeds on my Ak-9 x urkle that i sprayed with colloidal silver solution 50ppm but it was too weak for the amount of fem seeds i need haha