Ro waterA Ca deficiency .
The youngest leaves of the plant are the first to be visibly affected
The growth of the upper part of the plant is slowed down
Are you using RO water or tap?
What issues did you have? What kind of water are you using? Reverse osmosis? Tap water? I assure you running 1.8 EC was not your problem. Something else is amiss in your garden whether it's water quality, PH issues, water sterility issues, etc. Something isn't right. Clearly at 1.1 EC you are still having issues. You have not yet identified the problem from your prior grow. I'd bet apples to oranges you're using tap water, and is the source of your issues.Last run i was around 1.8 ec and i had tons of issues with lockout or something. I dropped it to 1.3 ec (fresh change) and let it get down to 1.1 to 1 then i do a water change. This new method has given me the best results so far other than this current issue.
I assume your adding 150 ish ppm calmag?Ro water
Ro water, the only thing i changed was the ec from last grow.What issues did you have? What kind of water are you using? Reverse osmosis? Tap water? I assure you running 1.8 EC was not your problem. Something else is amiss in your garden whether it's water quality, PH issues, water sterility issues, etc. Something isn't right. Clearly at 1.1 EC you are still having issues. You have not yet identified the problem from your prior grow. I'd bet apples to oranges you're using tap water, and is the source of your issues.
I use part A 3.6 grams, part B 2.4 grams, 1 grams epsomI assume your adding 150 ish ppm calmag?
The only variable that hasn't changed is your RDWC setup. I suspect it is the source of your problems.Ro water, the only thing i changed was the ec from last grow.
How so? Since it's the same what would cause the improvement other than lowering the EC?The only variable that hasn't changed is your RDWC setup. I suspect it is the source of your problems.
The tent stays under 82 degrees. I could lower the intensity of the light? Would that do it?I also see a little heat stress,taco leaves.Blocks Ca uptake.Just an observation
Well then,RO water in most cases needs the extra Ca.Not familiar with jacks but isnt A part calnit or something ?I use part A 3.6 grams, part B 2.4 grams, 1 grams epsom
Part B is cal nitrateWell then,RO water in most cases needs the extra Ca.Not familiar with jacks but isnt A part calnit or something ?
Its leaf temp you want to check,IR thermometer will do that.The tent stays under 82 degrees. I could lower the intensity of the light? Would that do it?
I'd bet a peanut butter and jelly sandwich your plants are suffering good old fashioned LED light burn. I just reviewed the hardware you're running in that 4x4. Why do I suspect this? Your monitoring everything like a good gardener should. You're experiencing the same issues at 1.1 EC you're experiencing at 1.8 EC. 550W of LED in a 4x4 is too much light. I had to relocate a 450W spider farmer board to my flower room from a 5x5, because I couldn't operate it at more than 50% power (225w) without bleaching and frying my foliage. They looked like your leaves. Burnt edges almost reminiscent of a calcim deficiency / nute burn and light colored leaves almost reminiscent of a magnesium deficiency. Classic LED light burn my friend. Turn your light down to 50%. Increase your EC to the proper strength that you should be feeding which is 1.6-1.8. Your plants will rebound. Blast them with light after flower set has occurred in the 2nd-3rd week of flower. Who cares if you fry a few fan leaves at that point? Fatten up those flowers, but at this point of your grow cycle the plants don't have any flowers and do not want to be blasted with that much light. You're loving your girls too much sir. Slow your roll and reduce the intensity of your light. The fertilizer was never your issue. Your light intensity was and is the issue.4x4 tent (Usually around 80°F)
Hlg 550 rspec
Just checked. No leaf is over 75 degrees atmIts leaf temp you want to check,IR thermometer will do that.
This for RO water?