Coco perlite Hydro combination - Drain to waste with recycling nutes. How long before draining ?

kingromano

Well-Known Member
Come on guy, stop talking nonsense. Salts vs organically. Coco does not feed plants, salts do. Get over your ego and gtfu
the main difference here is oxygenation
use mineral fertilizer in both coco and soil and notice the difference
lol
amateur

next time don't talk if its to say bullshi
 

DaFreak

Well-Known Member
Wait, maybe you don’t know that peat moss is a “hydro medium” as you put it? Again which is nonsense because industrial farming also uses salts in soil. So soil can be a hydro medium as well.
 

lusidghost

Well-Known Member
I think you're both partly correct, but there's no reason to be a jerk. I've never understood the 1337 gamer noob pwner approach to grow forums.
 

kingromano

Well-Known Member
Wait, maybe you don’t know that peat moss is a “hydro medium” as you put it? Again which is nonsense because industrial farming also uses salts in soil. So soil can be a hydro medium as well.
peat moss a hydro medium
with half of the mix bein perlite maybe lol
thanks for this joke man
 

kingromano

Well-Known Member
I think you're both partly correct, but there's no reason to be a jerk. I've never understood the 1337 gamer noob pwner approach to grow forums.
i try to defend myself against parasits, it's legit
they are everywhere nowadays, every noob with 3 plants in peat moss in his closet try to teach how to do
 

lusidghost

Well-Known Member
Any medium that doesn't hold nutrients is considered hydro. While you can add amendments, soil can't really be hydro.
 

DaFreak

Well-Known Member
Hydro is a nonsense term, salts or shit is what it’s all about. Some people get it, some never will.
 

tylerzigzag9029

Active Member
I do a drain to waste in coco using general hydro flora series. I water two times a day towards the end of veg and after a couple weeks into flour I hit them with five waterings with the last watering giving me my runoff. I wouldn't reuse it and after I tried out hydro for a little bit I wasn't impressed I made the switch to save a nutrients but realized I was actually wasting more with having to change out my reservoir so went back to Coco which I think I get better results running drain to waste than I did in my hydro grow Plus those pH and PPM swings aren't worth it to me to save a little bit on nutrients Plus you start running into more risk of contamination. Drain to waste seems to be the most sterile foolproof way for me anyways I have a 40 gallon storage tank that lasts me almost a week. I alternate peroxide and hydrogaurd every other week and I don't even have to clean out my reservoir the entire grow. Plus if you have any root problems with one of your plants once you recirculate that runoff water now you definitely got problems with the rest.
 

lusidghost

Well-Known Member
Hydro is a nonsense term, salts or shit is what it’s all about. Some people get it, some never will.
Not really, man. You won't get as good of a grow if you pack your coco tight as opposed to leaving it fluffy. DWC wouldn't exist without air. Roots love oxygen. Hydro is feeding your plants because your medium can't hold the nutrients itself.

Salts and oxygen are both hella important.
 

DaFreak

Well-Known Member
Never said oxygen wasn’t important. That’s a no brainer. Coco isn’t better than any other medium when using salts is what I’m saying. And it has more challenges whe’s compared to say pro-mix for beginners. Every medium has its uses though. I love it for cloning, and for large automated systems it awesome. Hand watering 4 to 6 plants I think it’s a poor choice.
 

lusidghost

Well-Known Member
Coco isn’t better than any other medium when using salts is what I’m saying.
Better is pretty subjective. It's definitely different. I've never grown in soil aside from actual vegetables, but I have a lot of experience with a plethora of coco and rockwool setups. I'm done with rockwool aside from macro plugs, and they will only be for seeds. Clones are getting aero'd and then going into coco.
 

lusidghost

Well-Known Member
This is my new setup. 6” coco cubes pushed together into one big cube. Flooding to waste. These plants got away from me a bit, but next time I plan on dropping my scrog screens lower and using less plants. I also plan on elevating them because I’m getting algae on the bottoms. Aside from that this has been the easiest run I’ve had. There will be a huge root system in the channels beneath the rockwool.

Last time I had a similar setup, but with rockwool slabs, Blumat soaker hoses, and the entire trays were covered with panda film. I may bring the panda film back to stop the algae and also because it stops leaves and whatnot from becoming an drain clogging / fungus gnat issue. The Blumats sucked for rockwool slabs. I wilted my plants several times trying to dial them in and keep them there.
6D2808EF-34CC-4366-A881-2F846E6102AC.jpeg
 

2com

Well-Known Member
This is my new setup. 6” coco cubes pushed together into one big cube. Flooding to waste. These plants got away from me a bit, but next time I plan on dropping my scrog screens lower and using less plants. I also plan on elevating them because I’m getting algae on the bottoms. Aside from that this has been the easiest run I’ve had. There will be a huge root system in the channels beneath the rockwool.

Last time I had a similar setup, but with rockwool slabs, Blumat soaker hoses, and the entire trays were covered with panda film. I may bring the panda film back to stop the algae and also because it stops leaves and whatnot from becoming an drain clogging / fungus gnat issue. The Blumats sucked for rockwool slabs. I wilted my plants several times trying to dial them in and keep them there.
View attachment 4838759
Holy fuck - the purple stalk and stems, particularly on the front, right plant. Woody as fuck.

I'm cringing at the thought of people suggesting "it's genetics" already.
 

2com

Well-Known Member
On a side note, what would cause this? It was BEFORE i started recirculating (which im only doing for 2-3 days in a row atm).
The "dark green veins" is more likely (refered to as) "interveinal chlorosis", and the "brown spots/burns" probably fall into the category of "necrosis". Just in case those terms might help in your search.
 

lusidghost

Well-Known Member
Holy fuck - the purple stalk and stems, particularly on the front, right plant. Woody as fuck.

I'm cringing at the thought of people suggesting "it's genetics" already.
Ha, I knew this comment was coming. This picture is from a couple weeks ago, but I think what happened was I wilted them before the roots spread out, and I overcorrected by keeping them over saturated. The one up front looks a lot better now, but it's still pretty purple. The ones in the back are an old OG strain that I've ran for years, and the stalks always purple up no matter how I grow them. The plants are all thriving above the canopy. The leaves are standing like crowns and nothing is burnt, and the budding is on schedule. So I'm not too worried. It's honestly one of my nicest looking runs so far.

Assuming I'm wrong and things are not fine, would you recommend? I've flushed them a bunch and hit them with plenty of cal/mag. I'm also running a fairly weak nutrient regime, so I don't think it's a lockout.
 

2com

Well-Known Member
The plants are all thriving above the canopy. The leaves are standing like crowns and nothing is burnt, and the budding is on schedule. So I'm not too worried. It's honestly one of my nicest looking runs so far.
Good - that's the more important thing.
Assuming I'm wrong and things are not fine, would you recommend? I've flushed them a bunch and hit them with plenty of cal/mag. I'm also running a fairly weak nutrient regime, so I don't think it's a lockout.
I'm not sure exactly what it is. I know what it isn't though.

I wasn't trying to diss you, just couldn't help noticing that (out loud, haha) because it's quite an example/case of it. Makes me wanna save a copy of it for future reference. It's one of the things I'm curious about for sure.
:)
 

CBS2020

Active Member
The "dark green veins" is more likely (refered to as) "interveinal chlorosis", and the "brown spots/burns" probably fall into the category of "necrosis". Just in case those terms might help in your search.
I looked up interveinal chlorosis and seems its more of a yellowing either side of the veins. Mine is more normal leaf colour but slightly dark green veins. And not on all plants, just 1 or 2. I will see if they are still there are few days of additional cal/mag.

I am getting more convinced of not reusing the water but still want to know how long it can be done so if i go away i know the limit. Will contact the lab and find out what it will cost to measure all the nutes.

For those using drain to waste coco, what is your schedule, water Ec start point, what do you add in which order, Ec end point, how often you water, just at that point of drips coming out from the fabric pots or actual run off each time ?

So far here is mine for veg

2x day watering 10 hours apart give or take until 10-20% runoff
60 Ec starting water
Add Canna A + B until 1000 Ec, then Cal/Mag until 1200-1300 Ec
Days not using Cal/Mag i add more A+B until 1200-1300Ec.

Have no set protocol of what days i use additional Cal/Mag, usually if i see any deficiency. Maybe i should run it all the time, and if so at what Ec ?

Only new things i have stared to add is Silica, and I would like to add Humic acid.
I dont foliar spray yet but have a potassium (i think) glyconate wetting agent, which i will use with what ever deficiency appears.
I have read to only foliar spray after lights out but is this even an issue with LED lights that done cook the plants like HPS etc did ?
 

tylerzigzag9029

Active Member
I looked up interveinal chlorosis and seems its more of a yellowing either side of the veins. Mine is more normal leaf colour but slightly dark green veins. And not on all plants, just 1 or 2. I will see if they are still there are few days of additional cal/mag.

I am getting more convinced of not reusing the water but still want to know how long it can be done so if i go away i know the limit. Will contact the lab and find out what it will cost to measure all the nutes.

For those using drain to waste coco, what is your schedule, water Ec start point, what do you add in which order, Ec end point, how often you water, just at that point of drips coming out from the fabric pots or actual run off each time ?

So far here is mine for veg

2x day watering 10 hours apart give or take until 10-20% runoff
60 Ec starting water
Add Canna A + B until 1000 Ec, then Cal/Mag until 1200-1300 Ec
Days not using Cal/Mag i add more A+B until 1200-1300Ec.

Have no set protocol of what days i use additional Cal/Mag, usually if i see any deficiency. Maybe i should run it all the time, and if so at what Ec ?

Only new things i have stared to add is Silica, and I would like to add Humic acid.
I dont foliar spray yet but have a potassium (i think) glyconate wetting agent, which i will use with what ever deficiency appears.
I have read to only foliar spray after lights out but is this even an issue with LED lights that done cook the plants like HPS etc did ?
I am currently following the cocoforcannabis nutrient guideline right now im at 600 ppm in mid bloom and will raise it to about 650 ppm in another week. I honestly dont measure my run off unless i have issues but if u water more run off once a week you shouldn't have issues. I dont foiler feed but i am using silica and humic acids alont with root enhancers and bloom enhancers with yucca raw wetting agent and if you didn't no you should add silica first and wait an hour before you add your other nutes. Im currently using diomond nectar but going to switch to dark energy when im out.
 

CBS2020

Active Member
I would like to convert the halo drip system i have to a octa/multi port floraflex etc head so its easier to add plants, move them around.
Will have filters on pump pickup, and filter before the floraflex etc

Suggestions on the best multiport head and halo, drip emitter alternative?
 
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