migenetics
Well-Known Member
Can anyone recommend some lights(strips, cobs or boards) to go with these drivers? I bought 4 and they weren't 100% compatible with my qb96's so I had to order Hlg series instead. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Xlg-240-h-a
- Thread starter migenetics
- Start date
Rocket Soul
Well-Known Member
What is the compatibility issue? These drivers should work well with anything between 27-57V, they are ideal when you need flexibility.
Alternatives: literally almost any cob or qb board except original qb304, qb324 and vero29 C-version.
migenetics
Well-Known Member
They are constant voltage drivers and they are 56v, qb96's are 54v so unless you turn down the io setting almost halfway you get no light no matter if I have 1-or 3 qb96's hooked up. Also there is little to no adjustment so it's basically all or nothing. I could've made it work but Hlg recommended I get the hlg series.
Rocket Soul
Well-Known Member
Those drivers are constant power, they way the driver works (no light at half dim or over) is quite normal when using a 54ish V board. The driver is able to handle anything between 27 and 56V but it will not be able output more than 240W. So max dim will only really be available to low voltage boards as the driver cannot go over it's rated power. But even so with low voltage your still only getting the max, 240w, output, or even a bit less actually.
So when your light goes out around mid dim it doesn't mean you're not compatible, it means that you've reached the maximum amps for the voltage youre trying to run. If you run 56V you won't be able to turn it up all the way to 6.6A as this would mean the driver running at +300watts (56x6.6). But if you're right on the edge of cut off current you're still getting your 240w output. I hope this makes sense.
Did you already get the new drivers? Try this:
Connect a couple of qb96 to your hlg drivers and another couple to the xlg drivers. Max dimming on hlg and turn the xlg up as far as you can without losing the light. You'll see 4 boards lit up with the same (or really close) intensity.
The not getting enough dimmer range can be solved by getting external dimming pots.
You don't need a hlg driver for these. If you want them go ahead, they are slightly better (runs cooler, better warranty) but you don't need them per se.
So when your light goes out around mid dim it doesn't mean you're not compatible, it means that you've reached the maximum amps for the voltage youre trying to run. If you run 56V you won't be able to turn it up all the way to 6.6A as this would mean the driver running at +300watts (56x6.6). But if you're right on the edge of cut off current you're still getting your 240w output. I hope this makes sense.
Did you already get the new drivers? Try this:
Connect a couple of qb96 to your hlg drivers and another couple to the xlg drivers. Max dimming on hlg and turn the xlg up as far as you can without losing the light. You'll see 4 boards lit up with the same (or really close) intensity.
The not getting enough dimmer range can be solved by getting external dimming pots.
You don't need a hlg driver for these. If you want them go ahead, they are slightly better (runs cooler, better warranty) but you don't need them per se.
migenetics
Well-Known Member
Already got the new drivers. Right out of the box without adjusting either the voltage or the io, is was brighter....but it was also drawing about 290w. You're right about the xlg as it will only pull about 240ish watts out of the wall before the light cuts out. So they are compatible as you said but I like having the ability to run anywhere from 100 to 300w without an external pot. Hence the reason for this thread. I don't want the xlgs to waste away doing nothing when I can hopefully find a use for them.
7CardBud
Well-Known Member
They are a good match for these if you like HLG or will work great in numerous COB or strip builds.
HLG QB288 V2 R-Spec & Slate 2 Single Combo LED DIY Grow Lite (horticulturelightinggroup.com)
HLG QB288 V2 R-Spec & Slate 2 Single Combo LED DIY Grow Lite (horticulturelightinggroup.com)
migenetics
Well-Known Member
Will I run into the same issue with those boards? Says they're 54v as well. Thanks
7CardBud
Well-Known Member
The QB96 probably needs around 59V to run at 5 Amps, the 300W you want.
The QB288 need 54V to run at the full 2.8 Amps.
Running two of the QB288 on those drivers at 2.2 Amps should be well below the 56V limit of the driver.
| VDC | Current (mA) | Watts at Board | μmoles/joule at Board (55C) |
| 51.5 | 1400 | 72 | 2.60 |
| 52.2 | 1750 | 91 | 2.52 |
| 53.4 | 2400 | 128 | 2.40 |
| 54 | 2800 | 151 | 2.36 |
| 55 | 3400 | 187 | 2.32 |
| 56 | 4000 | 224 | 2.25 |
The QB288 need 54V to run at the full 2.8 Amps.
Running two of the QB288 on those drivers at 2.2 Amps should be well below the 56V limit of the driver.
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