First time making my own organic medium. Did I get my ratios relatively right?

mwinpp

Member
I mixed up the medium for my next grow tonight. I used stuff I had lying around (my wife is an organic market gardener). The only thing I purchased was the earth work castings. The promix (Organik w/ mychroriza) has a fair bit of perlite in it, but I wanted to add more. The 5 stores in my area that would have it are all sold out, but I will add more later, before I plant.

What do you guys think?

Base soil:
Pro mix: 50%
Compost: 30%
EWC: 20%

Dry amendments (everyhing is pr litre soil)
Gaia 4-4-4: 7.5ml
K-Mag: 5ml
Wollastonite (calcium source): 6.25ml

Liquids (pr litre soil)
Soil carbon mix with 5% humic acid: 25ml
Sea kelp: 25ml

Thanks and have a great night!
 

Weedvin

Well-Known Member
No
I mixed up the medium for my next grow tonight. I used stuff I had lying around (my wife is an organic market gardener). The only thing I purchased was the earth work castings. The promix (Organik w/ mychroriza) has a fair bit of perlite in it, but I wanted to add more. The 5 stores in my area that would have it are all sold out, but I will add more later, before I plant.

What do you guys think?

Base soil:
Pro mix: 50%
Compost: 30%
EWC: 20%

Dry amendments (everyhing is pr litre soil)
Gaia 4-4-4: 7.5ml
K-Mag: 5ml
Wollastonite (calcium source): 6.25ml

Liquids (pr litre soil)
Soil carbon mix with 5% humic acid: 25ml
Sea kelp: 25ml

Thanks and have a great night!
Time for sprouts ✌ Then see.
 

green_machine_two9er

Well-Known Member
I mixed up the medium for my next grow tonight. I used stuff I had lying around (my wife is an organic market gardener). The only thing I purchased was the earth work castings. The promix (Organik w/ mychroriza) has a fair bit of perlite in it, but I wanted to add more. The 5 stores in my area that would have it are all sold out, but I will add more later, before I plant.

What do you guys think?

Base soil:
Pro mix: 50%
Compost: 30%
EWC: 20%

Dry amendments (everyhing is pr litre soil)
Gaia 4-4-4: 7.5ml
K-Mag: 5ml
Wollastonite (calcium source): 6.25ml

Liquids (pr litre soil)
Soil carbon mix with 5% humic acid: 25ml
Sea kelp: 25ml

Thanks and have a great night!
I think you have too much compost. Something along the lines of 20% ewc 10% compost. Would make a better base. Never used the promix organik. What’s the perlite % it should say on the bag??
 

myke

Well-Known Member
Way too thick,no air when wet.Take some promix mix add in a cup 444 to 5 gallons.Let sit.Plant clones or small plants in this in small container.When ready to up pot,mix the amended promix with your soil so 50/50.

Been their done that,slow growth twisted leaves from too much compost.
 

mwinpp

Member
Way too thick,no air when wet.Take some promix mix add in a cup 444 to 5 gallons.Let sit.Plant clones or small plants in this in small container.When ready to up pot,mix the amended promix with your soil so 50/50.

Been their done that,slow growth twisted leaves from too much compost.
I picked up 10L of perlite today (hard to find!) that I'll mix in.
 

kratos015

Well-Known Member
I think you have too much compost. Something along the lines of 20% ewc 10% compost. Would make a better base. Never used the promix organik. What’s the perlite % it should say on the bag??
This guy posted another thread, his wife has been gardening for a while and has quality compost that comes from doing it yourself. She's also got her plants in the ground (If I recall right?), and not in pots. If their native soil has enough sand/clay in it, the "stagnant water" and other water related issues common in container growing will not apply when it comes to plants in the ground.

Most common water related issues are overwatering, drowning the roots and then creating stagnant water pooling at the bottom of pots. Then, root rot, pests, and a host of other problems arise. This is why container pots need so much drainage/aeration. However, those problems don't exist with plants that are buried in the ground where your native dirt has sufficient drainage. It is very rare for water to "pool up" with plants that are in the ground, as the water will always follow the path of least resistance and find itself away from the roots. Wicking action will then draw water from this "underground pool" and take care of things. That same wicking action will fuck you in containers, especially if your pots aren't sitting on top of something and the pots are allowed to sit in their own runoff.

Of course, this assumes everyone's native dirt has sufficient sand/drainage by itself. Containers, I always go with 40% aeration inputs. In the ground though, it's been closer to 10% input. That 10% perlite, combined with the sand/dirt that is native to where I (and OP) lives, provides all the drainage we need. Since the drainage is sufficient, the roots aren't "suffocating" at any point.

My outdoor plants and beds use little to no perlite. However, I can't stress enough that this is only due to the sand content in my soil seeing as I live in the desert. It is very rare to actually see water pool up, and if you do see water pooling up, its gone just as quick as you look away.

Monsoons out here can cause enough rainfail to literally turn streets into rivers, rapidly flowing rivers. Never seen anything like it. Rain starts, and within a half hour there's a river that's over 1ft tall and the water flows so quickly that it can effortlessly sweep a car away. I've seen cars get swept away in these monsoon rivers, and end up in the middle of a "lake" because there is just so much water. Then, once the rain stops, all of that water is legit gone within a day as it quickly drains in the sand/rocks (excluding washes).

His wife uses a 50/50 mix of Promix and Compost, and it's worked great for her for a while now. The only way she could get away with a 50/50 ratio is if her compost was (and is) perfect, and if her native dirt in the ground has sufficient enough drainage on its own. One doesn't just grow 150 tomato plants and not know what they're doing, so there's a lot one can infer from the fact she's growing 150 plants successfully in a 50/50 mix. Her Promix and native dirt provide all the drainage needed, and her compost is likely amazing.

The OP confirmed my suspicions that her compost is just as I imagined, and is of high quality.

As with many other things in life, there is a huge different between something store-bought and something homemade. Homemade will almost always have greater care, and attention to detail, than a consumer product because the motivation just isn't the same.

For those unaware, the important of homemade compost cannot be stressed enough. In fact, having your own properly made compost is one of the most important things to success with a living soil.

I normally agree that having more than 20-30% compost in a mix is way too much, however that's container gardening. Soil texture/compaction, and watering all change when the soil/plants are in the ground and no in a pot. Only thing I'd do different from OPs wife is run 60/40 Promix:Compost instead, allowing me another year or so of growing before I have to dig it up and remix with new ProMix/Peat moss.


I picked up 10L of perlite today (hard to find!) that I'll mix in.
Perlite has been a nightmare to find for the last 6 months now. I've talked with various garden centers and growers within a 100 miles radius, perlite is impossible to find. The stores keep ordering it, but it is always out of stock. On top of that, many of these stores aren't getting as many trucks as they used to. My local hardware store used to get a truck once every 2 weeks, now it's once every 4 weeks and they're lucky to see 50% of the inventory they ordered.

If you don't mind, ask your spouse why they use the 50/50 mix. I'd like to hear your spouse's response, and it will confirm more of my suspicions.

Is there a reason you went ahead and added the K-Mag and Ca? Your spouse sounds more experienced than I am, did she recommend that? And if so, why? That K-Mag is very likely to bite you in the ass come flower, however it is very possible your wife knows something that I do not know. Assuming she recommended mixing the K-Mag in the soil, of course. The extra Ca also doesn't make sense to me. If you check your 4-4-4 Gaia Green mix, it has multiple Ca inputs in it already.

Your soil is overloaded with Calcium and Potassium straight from the get go. This WILL cause problems in the future; ironically, adding that much excess Ca and K is going to result in lockouts of Ca, K, and Mg.

I'd have gone with 50% pure compost too. Sure, store EWC are better than no castings. But homemade compost will always be better than store bought EWC.

One of the big trip ups with growing in a living soil is that people tend to add shit without actually thinking about why they add it, often for no other reason besides "they read to do it". Brewing banana teas when they have no K deficiency, or using tons of Calcium inputs when they already have enough in their soil mix, and so forth.

Going forward, use 50% of your homemade compost next time. Don't mess with EWC unless you start making it yourself, the homemade compost you have access to is vastly superior to anything you will find at a store.

Do NOT make this your final mix. Use the 50/50 ratio and don't add all that extra stuff to it. Your plants are still small, and you're not in flower, so you can easily mix a better soil and transplant the small plants into larger pots with corrected soil.

Failure to do so will result in both mediocre yields and quality.

All the best.
 

mwinpp

Member
This guy posted another thread, his wife has been gardening for a while and has quality compost that comes from doing it yourself. She's also got her plants in the ground (If I recall right?), and not in pots. If their native soil has enough sand/clay in it, the "stagnant water" and other water related issues common in container growing will not apply when it comes to plants in the ground.

Most common water related issues are overwatering, drowning the roots and then creating stagnant water pooling at the bottom of pots. Then, root rot, pests, and a host of other problems arise. This is why container pots need so much drainage/aeration. However, those problems don't exist with plants that are buried in the ground where your native dirt has sufficient drainage. It is very rare for water to "pool up" with plants that are in the ground, as the water will always follow the path of least resistance and find itself away from the roots. Wicking action will then draw water from this "underground pool" and take care of things. That same wicking action will fuck you in containers, especially if your pots aren't sitting on top of something and the pots are allowed to sit in their own runoff.

Of course, this assumes everyone's native dirt has sufficient sand/drainage by itself. Containers, I always go with 40% aeration inputs. In the ground though, it's been closer to 10% input. That 10% perlite, combined with the sand/dirt that is native to where I (and OP) lives, provides all the drainage we need. Since the drainage is sufficient, the roots aren't "suffocating" at any point.

My outdoor plants and beds use little to no perlite. However, I can't stress enough that this is only due to the sand content in my soil seeing as I live in the desert. It is very rare to actually see water pool up, and if you do see water pooling up, its gone just as quick as you look away.

Monsoons out here can cause enough rainfail to literally turn streets into rivers, rapidly flowing rivers. Never seen anything like it. Rain starts, and within a half hour there's a river that's over 1ft tall and the water flows so quickly that it can effortlessly sweep a car away. I've seen cars get swept away in these monsoon rivers, and end up in the middle of a "lake" because there is just so much water. Then, once the rain stops, all of that water is legit gone within a day as it quickly drains in the sand/rocks (excluding washes).

His wife uses a 50/50 mix of Promix and Compost, and it's worked great for her for a while now. The only way she could get away with a 50/50 ratio is if her compost was (and is) perfect, and if her native dirt in the ground has sufficient enough drainage on its own. One doesn't just grow 150 tomato plants and not know what they're doing, so there's a lot one can infer from the fact she's growing 150 plants successfully in a 50/50 mix. Her Promix and native dirt provide all the drainage needed, and her compost is likely amazing.

The OP confirmed my suspicions that her compost is just as I imagined, and is of high quality.

As with many other things in life, there is a huge different between something store-bought and something homemade. Homemade will almost always have greater care, and attention to detail, than a consumer product because the motivation just isn't the same.

For those unaware, the important of homemade compost cannot be stressed enough. In fact, having your own properly made compost is one of the most important things to success with a living soil.

I normally agree that having more than 20-30% compost in a mix is way too much, however that's container gardening. Soil texture/compaction, and watering all change when the soil/plants are in the ground and no in a pot. Only thing I'd do different from OPs wife is run 60/40 Promix:Compost instead, allowing me another year or so of growing before I have to dig it up and remix with new ProMix/Peat moss.




Perlite has been a nightmare to find for the last 6 months now. I've talked with various garden centers and growers within a 100 miles radius, perlite is impossible to find. The stores keep ordering it, but it is always out of stock. On top of that, many of these stores aren't getting as many trucks as they used to. My local hardware store used to get a truck once every 2 weeks, now it's once every 4 weeks and they're lucky to see 50% of the inventory they ordered.

If you don't mind, ask your spouse why they use the 50/50 mix. I'd like to hear your spouse's response, and it will confirm more of my suspicions.

Is there a reason you went ahead and added the K-Mag and Ca? Your spouse sounds more experienced than I am, did she recommend that? And if so, why? That K-Mag is very likely to bite you in the ass come flower, however it is very possible your wife knows something that I do not know. Assuming she recommended mixing the K-Mag in the soil, of course. The extra Ca also doesn't make sense to me. If you check your 4-4-4 Gaia Green mix, it has multiple Ca inputs in it already.

Your soil is overloaded with Calcium and Potassium straight from the get go. This WILL cause problems in the future; ironically, adding that much excess Ca and K is going to result in lockouts of Ca, K, and Mg.

I'd have gone with 50% pure compost too. Sure, store EWC are better than no castings. But homemade compost will always be better than store bought EWC.

One of the big trip ups with growing in a living soil is that people tend to add shit without actually thinking about why they add it, often for no other reason besides "they read to do it". Brewing banana teas when they have no K deficiency, or using tons of Calcium inputs when they already have enough in their soil mix, and so forth.

Going forward, use 50% of your homemade compost next time. Don't mess with EWC unless you start making it yourself, the homemade compost you have access to is vastly superior to anything you will find at a store.

Do NOT make this your final mix. Use the 50/50 ratio and don't add all that extra stuff to it. Your plants are still small, and you're not in flower, so you can easily mix a better soil and transplant the small plants into larger pots with corrected soil.

Failure to do so will result in both mediocre yields and quality.

All the best.

Hey man and thanks for your detailed answer!! Everything is pretty much correct, but my wife grows tomatoes in 5gal pots with a 50/50 mix of promix/compost. We dont make it our selves but we get it from a local mennonite. It's heat treated and comes with an analysis and all. I asked her and she said its ok to do 50/50 because its a slow release and it wont burn. The tomates are doing great :) We're also working with an agronomist who does soil samples etc and he was the one suggesting topdressing (the tomatoes) with K-mag because we're log in potassium.

My reason for adding K-Mag and Calcium to my mix was basically because we have it laying around in granular form. The guy i got the wollastonite from (I bought 1 ton, lol) said you couldn't use too much but he was talking about fields, not cannabis :) We have boron and manganese as well but I didn't add any of that.


- so would you think, adding another 25-30 liters (5-7gal) of promix into my mix to dilute it a bit would be a good way to go? I actually havent even germinated the seeds, so I have a pretty good amount of time left before I need to use the soil. I don't plan on using this mix until I go into my 7-gal finishing pots. I start in solos, then go to 1gal, then 3gal and then the 7gal. I was thinking about using the mix just for the 3gal and 7gal stages. I was planning on using straight promix with maybe 5-10% compost for the solo cups and 1gal pots.

Thanks again for your great answer! I'm learning so much these days :)
 

kratos015

Well-Known Member
Hey man and thanks for your detailed answer!! Everything is pretty much correct, but my wife grows tomatoes in 5gal pots with a 50/50 mix of promix/compost. We dont make it our selves but we get it from a local mennonite. It's heat treated and comes with an analysis and all. I asked her and she said its ok to do 50/50 because its a slow release and it wont burn. The tomates are doing great :) We're also working with an agronomist who does soil samples etc and he was the one suggesting topdressing (the tomatoes) with K-mag because we're log in potassium.

My reason for adding K-Mag and Calcium to my mix was basically because we have it laying around in granular form. The guy i got the wollastonite from (I bought 1 ton, lol) said you couldn't use too much but he was talking about fields, not cannabis :) We have boron and manganese as well but I didn't add any of that.


- so would you think, adding another 25-30 liters (5-7gal) of promix into my mix to dilute it a bit would be a good way to go? I actually havent even germinated the seeds, so I have a pretty good amount of time left before I need to use the soil. I don't plan on using this mix until I go into my 7-gal finishing pots. I start in solos, then go to 1gal, then 3gal and then the 7gal. I was thinking about using the mix just for the 3gal and 7gal stages. I was planning on using straight promix with maybe 5-10% compost for the solo cups and 1gal pots.

Thanks again for your great answer! I'm learning so much these days :)
Glad to help.

Very surprised to hear she's in pots, but quality compost doesn't "clump" like store bought does. That "clumping" is what fucks with your root's growth. Mennonites don't fuck around, that compost is likely exceptional in quality. Probably light and airy, instead of heavy and clumpy.

I can understand using K-Mag for the tomatoes, as they're likely mature and possibly have even been grown through multiple seasons?

Think of any and all nutrients as food in a pantry, K-Mag being one of your ingredients in the pantry. Tomato plants that have been grown through seasons have depleted the "pantry" of K-Mag, so you go to the store (top dress) to re-fill your pantry with K-Mag. You do not need to go to the store until the K-Mag is nearly depleted, as you don't want your "pantry" overflowing.

Also, a young plant/seedling (much like a young child) won't eat nearly as much as a full grown adult. Your "pantry" will also look much different between a young plant/child, vs that of a group of grown plants/adults.

K-Mag, Calcium supplements, and most everything else should only be added when you're close to depleting the supply of nutrients, lest you overflow your pantry.

Respectfully, adding things just because "its around" is a recipe for disaster. Consider soil like cooking; we don't add things just because its there, we only add what's needed. Can always add more salt to your dish over time, but you can't take salt out of a dish. Soil works the same way.

Nutrients are either water soluble or insoluble. Water soluble nutrients can and will flow out of your soil/substrate via runoff, this is not the case with water insoluble nutrients. So, what happens with insoluble nutes is they either bind to the substrate itself or they eventually build up as salts in the substrate.

This is why you can't "use too much" in fields, but in 5g containers its much different. Insoluble nutes that aren't used will result in salt build ups much faster in 5g pots than in fields.

Soil, much like cooking, less is more.

If you're getting your soil tested, and getting advice, definitely listen to what they say. Consider that building a new soil will result in different readings than the soil you've used for your tomatoes; as a result both soils will need different things, and in different amounts. Furthermore, consider the difference between a young plant and adult plant's feeding habits.

Adding more promix and compost will definitely help dilute things a bit, you're spot on there.

I personally start seeds in either peat pellets, or 50/50 Peat:EWC from my worm bins.

No need for so many transplants either, more risk of transplant shock. I've been growing plants for over a decade and transplanting still makes me nervous, easy way to ruin weeks/months worth of growth and work.

You'd be better off going from solo cup to your final pot. I go straight from peat pellet into final pots/ground if I'm able to get away with it.

All the best.
 

mwinpp

Member
Glad to help.

Very surprised to hear she's in pots, but quality compost doesn't "clump" like store bought does. That "clumping" is what fucks with your root's growth. Mennonites don't fuck around, that compost is likely exceptional in quality. Probably light and airy, instead of heavy and clumpy.

I can understand using K-Mag for the tomatoes, as they're likely mature and possibly have even been grown through multiple seasons?

Think of any and all nutrients as food in a pantry, K-Mag being one of your ingredients in the pantry. Tomato plants that have been grown through seasons have depleted the "pantry" of K-Mag, so you go to the store (top dress) to re-fill your pantry with K-Mag. You do not need to go to the store until the K-Mag is nearly depleted, as you don't want your "pantry" overflowing.

Also, a young plant/seedling (much like a young child) won't eat nearly as much as a full grown adult. Your "pantry" will also look much different between a young plant/child, vs that of a group of grown plants/adults.

K-Mag, Calcium supplements, and most everything else should only be added when you're close to depleting the supply of nutrients, lest you overflow your pantry.

Respectfully, adding things just because "its around" is a recipe for disaster. Consider soil like cooking; we don't add things just because its there, we only add what's needed. Can always add more salt to your dish over time, but you can't take salt out of a dish. Soil works the same way.

Nutrients are either water soluble or insoluble. Water soluble nutrients can and will flow out of your soil/substrate via runoff, this is not the case with water insoluble nutrients. So, what happens with insoluble nutes is they either bind to the substrate itself or they eventually build up as salts in the substrate.

This is why you can't "use too much" in fields, but in 5g containers its much different. Insoluble nutes that aren't used will result in salt build ups much faster in 5g pots than in fields.

Soil, much like cooking, less is more.

If you're getting your soil tested, and getting advice, definitely listen to what they say. Consider that building a new soil will result in different readings than the soil you've used for your tomatoes; as a result both soils will need different things, and in different amounts. Furthermore, consider the difference between a young plant and adult plant's feeding habits.

Adding more promix and compost will definitely help dilute things a bit, you're spot on there.

I personally start seeds in either peat pellets, or 50/50 Peat:EWC from my worm bins.

No need for so many transplants either, more risk of transplant shock. I've been growing plants for over a decade and transplanting still makes me nervous, easy way to ruin weeks/months worth of growth and work.

You'd be better off going from solo cup to your final pot. I go straight from peat pellet into final pots/ground if I'm able to get away with it.

All the best.
Again, thanks for the nice reply. I've attached the only half decent photo I could find of the tomatoes. I'm not as stoned as I look, lol.

We grow exclusively cherry tomatoes and they just really seem to like the pots. We had them in 4-gal pots last year and upgraded to 5-gal but only because we became certified organic and it was something about soil/area ratio.The green house is 50' long and has five rows like you can see in the picture. We're doing another similar greenhouse next to this one in the fall, which is going to house cucumbers and peppers next year. We're in Ontario and we get the sun out before the warmth so its perfect for here. We heat it with propane in the spring. I'm not planning on planting anything in this mix for at least another 6-weeks, probably 8, but I'll have a test done of it before I do anything. Just for fun. They're only $25 Canadian which is more like $20 usd.

Thanks for explaning the nutrients. It totally makes sense to me, and I don't really know what I was thinking, haha. More better is more good I guess. I'll throw in another bale of promix for some dilution.

Also, thanks for the tip about transplanting. I'll go straight from my solocup-sized pot into my 7-gal finishing.

Take care for now! I'm sure more questions will arise later on.

PXL_20210709_151618737.jpg

 

mwinpp

Member
Perlite is so yesterday.
Use pumice . Easier to find. Myco colonies fill the nooks and crannies of pumice well.
Looks cool but I don't think it's easier to get for me here in Ontario. I did a search and only found a couple of nurseries a few hours away carrying it. Looked like around $5 usd/gallon. Where do you get yours?
 

kratos015

Well-Known Member
Again, thanks for the nice reply. I've attached the only half decent photo I could find of the tomatoes. I'm not as stoned as I look, lol.

We grow exclusively cherry tomatoes and they just really seem to like the pots. We had them in 4-gal pots last year and upgraded to 5-gal but only because we became certified organic and it was something about soil/area ratio.The green house is 50' long and has five rows like you can see in the picture. We're doing another similar greenhouse next to this one in the fall, which is going to house cucumbers and peppers next year. We're in Ontario and we get the sun out before the warmth so its perfect for here. We heat it with propane in the spring. I'm not planning on planting anything in this mix for at least another 6-weeks, probably 8, but I'll have a test done of it before I do anything. Just for fun. They're only $25 Canadian which is more like $20 usd.

Thanks for explaning the nutrients. It totally makes sense to me, and I don't really know what I was thinking, haha. More better is more good I guess. I'll throw in another bale of promix for some dilution.

Also, thanks for the tip about transplanting. I'll go straight from my solocup-sized pot into my 7-gal finishing.

Take care for now! I'm sure more questions will arise later on.


You guys running a farmer's market or something? What did that greenhouse cost? Been wanting one for a while, only way I'll be able to grow anything in the winters out here. Summers are over 120F here, but much more manageable than bone chilling 25-40F winters.

Filling my yard up with a wide variety of different types of produce and intend on seeing how successful I can be at a farmer's market, so some tips for marketing and the like would be good to know.

Cherry tomatoes are extremely forgiving, they were surviving my desert summers just fine. Great flavor too, love them in sauces or salsas.


Looks cool but I don't think it's easier to get for me here in Ontario. I did a search and only found a couple of nurseries a few hours away carrying it. Looked like around $5 usd/gallon. Where do you get yours?
Pumice is good, but only if you can get it for a good price. Very few people I know of that can find affordable pumice, $5/gallon is fairly standard pricing from what I've found and that is just way too damn expensive.

1 cuft = ~7.5 gallons

Perlite comes in a 4 cuft (30 gallon) bag, and I can find it for $20-$25 per 4 cuft bag. Well, when there wasn't a shortage I was able to find it lol.

Anyway, $5/gallon is expensive. 4 cuft of pumice at that price would be ~$150 usd. Way not worth it, in my opinion.
 

wil2279

Well-Known Member
I mixed up the medium for my next grow tonight. I used stuff I had lying around (my wife is an organic market gardener). The only thing I purchased was the earth work castings. The promix (Organik w/ mychroriza) has a fair bit of perlite in it, but I wanted to add more. The 5 stores in my area that would have it are all sold out, but I will add more later, before I plant.

What do you guys think?

Base soil:
Pro mix: 50%
Compost: 30%
EWC: 20%

Dry amendments (everyhing is pr litre soil)
Gaia 4-4-4: 7.5ml
K-Mag: 5ml
Wollastonite (calcium source): 6.25ml

Liquids (pr litre soil)
Soil carbon mix with 5% humic acid: 25ml
Sea kelp: 25ml

Thanks and have a great night!
Standard soil recipe is
1/3 peat or coco
1/3 compost & castings
1/3 aeration media like perlite or rice hulls

I don't think your far off. I'd just add a little more perlite or rice hulls
 

mwinpp

Member
You guys running a farmer's market or something? What did that greenhouse cost? Been wanting one for a while, only way I'll be able to grow anything in the winters out here. Summers are over 120F here, but much more manageable than bone chilling 25-40F winters.

Filling my yard up with a wide variety of different types of produce and intend on seeing how successful I can be at a farmer's market, so some tips for marketing and the like would be good to know.

Cherry tomatoes are extremely forgiving, they were surviving my desert summers just fine. Great flavor too, love them in sauces or salsas.




Pumice is good, but only if you can get it for a good price. Very few people I know of that can find affordable pumice, $5/gallon is fairly standard pricing from what I've found and that is just way too damn expensive.

1 cuft = ~7.5 gallons

Perlite comes in a 4 cuft (30 gallon) bag, and I can find it for $20-$25 per 4 cuft bag. Well, when there wasn't a shortage I was able to find it lol.

Anyway, $5/gallon is expensive. 4 cuft of pumice at that price would be ~$150 usd. Way not worth it, in my opinion.
Yeah, we go to a big-ish farmers market just outside Ottawa every Saturday morning. It's good there but my wife (and 15% me) has spent 11 years now building a reputation, knowledge and a name for herself. We also have around 40 weekly customers who pickup a basket on the farm and we do "grab bags" every sunday (or monday) where people can order a one-off basket, usually priced around $35. We're also growing 18,000 garlic bulbs which are all harvested now and some are drying, getting braided, cleaned, some already sold. Life is pretty good here but it is lots of work. I'm a contractor busy building bathrooms right now and my wife is working way too much (often 12 hours/daily) and its not like its all sitting at a desk :p My best advice would be to grow nice simple/normal stuff like tomatoes, cucumber, lettuce mix, micro greens, carrots, beets, kale, herbs and that kind of stuff. Stuff that sells. I hate to say it, but at the end of the day, a crop has to be able to make $ in order for us to want to produce it. There is just too little time to grow a bunch of "fun" stuff that only appeals to 5% of your customer base. I hope that sounds reasonable and not too cynical. Facebook is a great marketing tool and see if you can get in with a farmers market local to you. We tried having an unmanned road side stand years ago and it sucked. Dont to that, lol.

That aside, thats some crazy good pricing on perlite/purmice! I just found a 9L bag tonight at Canadian Tire for $10. It's all priced around $1/litre if you can find it.

EDIT: Forgot to mention - the greenhouse is around $8k and maybe around $2k for the sand pad it sits on, pressure treated 2x6" foundation, plastic etc. It's a double walled system with a fan that continuously blows air to fill the gap between the layers for insulation. Still itwould go through a bbq-tank of propane pr night if it went down to -5c or a bit lower. Still way worth it though. I can tell you by the end of the year, but it's probably producing $300-$500 pr week in tomatoes alone in the growing season which is fairly long here (relatively, its fucking canada lol). I LOVE the greenhouse.
 
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mwinpp

Member
Standard soil recipe is
1/3 peat or coco
1/3 compost & castings
1/3 aeration media like perlite or rice hulls

I don't think your far off. I'd just add a little more perlite or rice hulls
I'm having big problems finding perlite. Just got another 9L tonight, but its sold out almost everywhere. I can find Miracle Grow perlite but it has their fertilizer in it and I dont want to use that for my organic grow.
 

mwinpp

Member
This is what my mix looks like now:


Pro mix: 50L
Compost: 25L
EWC: 20L
Perlite: 15L
Vermiculite: 10L

K-Mag: 500ml
Wollastonite: 625ml
Humic acid (soil carbon mix): 250ml
Sea kelp: 250ml
Gaia 4-4-4: 750ml
 

myke

Well-Known Member
This is what my mix looks like now:


Pro mix: 50L
Compost: 25L
EWC: 20L
Perlite: 15L
Vermiculite: 10L

K-Mag: 500ml
Wollastonite: 625ml
Humic acid (soil carbon mix): 250ml
Sea kelp: 250ml
Gaia 4-4-4: 750ml
What I did when I first started was mix 3 different batches,test for yourself the ratios of peat/compost.
Remember good compost is excellent top dressings.
 

mwinpp

Member
I opened up my big tote tonight to add some vermiculite and I saw a bunch of fungus spots around 1" diameter. Must have developed over night. I assume thats a good thing :)
 

osowhom

Well-Known Member
I mixed up the medium for my next grow tonight. I used stuff I had lying around (my wife is an organic market gardener). The only thing I purchased was the earth work castings. The promix (Organik w/ mychroriza) has a fair bit of perlite in it, but I wanted to add more. The 5 stores in my area that would have it are all sold out, but I will add more later, before I plant.

What do you guys think?

Base soil:
Pro mix: 50%
Compost: 30%
EWC: 20%

Dry amendments (everyhing is pr litre soil)
Gaia 4-4-4: 7.5ml
K-Mag: 5ml
Wollastonite (calcium source): 6.25ml

Liquids (pr litre soil)
Soil carbon mix with 5% humic acid: 25ml
Sea kelp: 25ml

Thanks and have a great night!
right up my alley was it the yellow labeled promix? if so i added more perlite and most of the same as you i am growing in 7 gallon pots what size are you in?
 

osowhom

Well-Known Member
i am in week 5 of flower and the buds are huge i only water every 4th day with 2 gallons of water and my special ingredients my girls love it
 
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