Need to get rid of this problem. Could be root rot/pythium... DWC EXPERTS PLEASE HELP !!!!!

Meast21

Well-Known Member
I mix the same 3ppm strength to everything. I add it to my RO water jugs (7gallons) to keep them sterile. Then I don't have to think about it for a while.

I used a local brand in northern Europe but I'm currently situated in Thailand so I use the local brand they have here. I'm used to using bleach and what I do is check the biofilm in the reservoir to see if the bleach is doing what it's supposed to do, removing it. You should feel plastic and no slippery biofilm(algae) on the inside of the reservoir. If it's still there you increase slightly.

It's very hard to overdo it with bleach.
I just seen there is light coming into my rez and my new rez. Its like the old rez failed bc I had it for years anywhere from 3-7 years. The new rez exactly the same has light coming in the top and the roots look brown all of a sudden when they were white.. I put mylar on top of the rez and its a lot better. So could I have gotten root rot/pythium in one of my plants and effected all of them???? Its like I got it from one tent/rez and it got into all of them and effected all my tents rez's in my basement. No way all my rez's went bad at the same time.

Rubbermaid Commercial BRUTE Tote Storage Bin with Lid | eBay those are some of the rez's I use and I also use the hydrofarm ones for growing. ITs like they all of a sudden went bad and let light through the lids and the new one is doing it too like it wasn't made as good.

I think I might have to start all over with new rez's buckets and just start from scratch.
 
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Meast21

Well-Known Member
I mix the same 3ppm strength to everything. I add it to my RO water jugs (7gallons) to keep them sterile. Then I don't have to think about it for a while.

I used a local brand in northern Europe but I'm currently situated in Thailand so I use the local brand they have here. I'm used to using bleach and what I do is check the biofilm in the reservoir to see if the bleach is doing what it's supposed to do, removing it. You should feel plastic and no slippery biofilm(algae) on the inside of the reservoir. If it's still there you increase slightly.

It's very hard to overdo it with bleach.
Do u add bleach before the nutrients? I use the technaflora line.
 

Failmore

Well-Known Member
Do u add bleach before the nutrients? I use the technaflora line.
P sure it does not matter. Do it after tho. No big woop.

I use a lil pool shock every 2 days...and I mean a lil lil lil bit. Shit is strong. Only needs a few grains every 2 days.

This is preventive tho
 

smokey0418

Well-Known Member
P sure it does not matter. Do it after tho. No big woop.

I use a lil pool shock every 2 days...and I mean a lil lil lil bit. Shit is strong. Only needs a few grains every 2 days.

This is preventive tho
I have pool shock mixed up from a while back.

Great for cleaning my probe and my tank back in the day.

Orca is my go to now.
 

Hollatchaboy

Well-Known Member
Do you use the bleach all the time? Ive been using uc roots, should i ditch that and just use bleach for rez changes and topping off rez like daily? Or go back to the UC roots after the problem is gone.
Use it all the time.
Uc roots is basically expensive watered down bleach.
 

Meast21

Well-Known Member
@Hollatchaboy do you know a lot about DWC/hydro?? Plant was a clone and was fine for 3 years and went bad with the above issues.. Other plants in other tents having higher ph issues that get stuck at 6.3 and won't come down, but still drink and turn out fine... Why else you a plant stop drinking all of a sudden??? Like I said this plant is about a foot tall from clone and pulled this act of not drinking.
 

Delps8

Well-Known Member
I refer to this as the "Wonderchart" because it just make things so simple.

"Son of Wonderchart" is attached. This one is for plants that are taking up water. There's another one for rare situations when plants aren't taking in water.

When I add an entry to my journal, I use a three letter code. FSS is Falling water, Static PPM, and Static pH. Creating an abbreviation is a really good way to portray the state of the res at any one point in time.

Oh, yeh - like so many other things, these are guidelines and, the part of the Wonderchart that talks about lowering EC until pH stops falling is just plain wrong, as I found out. After my second grow I learned that it's common for pH to drop in hydro when going into flower. That was a hard earned lesson.
 

Attachments

Delps8

Well-Known Member
Good info on using H2O2. I have a 35 gallon res in a 2'x 4' tent and I've only ever used Hydroguard. I appreciate seeing how easy it is to use H2O2.

While it's too late for the OP's grow, you might want to add a silica supplement. I use Jack's 3-2-0, Silica Blast, and Hydroguard and nothing else so I had to be convinced that SilicaBlast would help. My grow is in SoCal and I do very little defoliation so I have to be on the look out for pythium. I think I started using it after a read a research document about it early last year so there is some science behind it.

Also, in one of Bruce Bugbee's videos, I can't state which one it was, he just comes out and says that good levels of silica will stop pythium. I was surprised because he made the statement in such a matter of fact way.
 

Delps8

Well-Known Member
@Hollatchaboy do you know a lot about DWC/hydro?? Plant was a clone and was fine for 3 years and went bad with the above issues.. Other plants in other tents having higher ph issues that get stuck at 6.3 and won't come down, but still drink and turn out fine... Why else you a plant stop drinking all of a sudden??? Like I said this plant is about a foot tall from clone and pulled this act of not drinking.
I don't see any mention of temperature and RH or VPD. If you're in high temp and high humidity, your plants may not be able to transpire and, if that happens, they can't uptake water.
What's your temp and RH? Does VPD ring a bell? VPD is an excellent way to optimize yield and it makes is stupid simple.

I've attached the version of Son of WonderChart (just the name I gave it, nothing official) for when plants aren't drinking.
 

Attachments

Meast21

Well-Known Member
Here's a good one with the plant that's not drinking I just checked it and ph was 6.4 and ppm was 930... I lowered the ph to 5.7 (also dropped the ppm to 680) and it took probably 2 ML or more to lower it from 6.3 to 5.7 and that was using the strong advanced nutrients ph down. Should have took 5 drops to get from 6.3 to 5.7 and it took like I said 2+ ML's.... Something is wrong off.... Got another plant in a different tent and everything is 100%... Other tents plants were growing perfect, but ph was locked or stuck in the 6.3-6.4 range.

I don't even think the 2 gallons of water at ph of 7.5 raised the ph that much maybe from 6.2 to 6.4. It should have raised it more bc 2 gallons at ph of 7.5 with 4 gallons of water at 6.2 should have raised it above the 6.4... Its like the water is fucked and certain plants are responding different. The city I live in has very good water though.
 
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Meast21

Well-Known Member
I don't see any mention of temperature and RH or VPD. If you're in high temp and high humidity, your plants may not be able to transpire and, if that happens, they can't uptake water.
What's your temp and RH? Does VPD ring a bell? VPD is an excellent way to optimize yield and it makes is stupid simple.

I've attached the version of Son of WonderChart (just the name I gave it, nothing official) for when plants aren't drinking.
Thanks for you're help, but this is an advanced issue or something stupid or stupid wierd... Everything is normal atm water temp is 70 (I've grown in 80 degrees before without issue in 2 gallons of water) RH is about 50%
 

Meast21

Well-Known Member
I'm trying all new nutrients tommorrow. I use technaflora product line and have all new bottles and will try that tommorrow. Maybe nutes when bad, I had it happen before... But why would a couple of plants not be effected ???
 

smokey0418

Well-Known Member
Here's a good one with the plant that's not drinking I just checked it and ph was 6.4 and ppm was 930... I lowered the ph to 5.7 (also dropped the ppm to 680) and it took probably 2 ML or more to lower it from 6.3 to 5.7 and that was using the strong advanced nutrients ph down. Should have took 5 drops to get from 6.3 to 5.7 and it took like I said 2+ ML's.... Something is wrong off.... Got another plant in a different tent and everything is 100%... Other tents plants were growing perfect, but ph was locked or stuck in the 6.3-6.4 range.

I don't even think the 2 gallons of water at ph of 7.5 raised the ph that much maybe from 6.2 to 6.4. It should have raised it more bc 2 gallons at ph of 7.5 with 4 gallons of water at 6.2 should have raised it above the 6.4... Its like the water is fucked and certain plants are responding different. The city I live in has very good water though.
I am following along and if you don’t mind , what kind of scale are you working with when you state 930 ppm ?

I would be looking at 1.86ec on a 500 scale with mine.
 

Meast21

Well-Known Member
I am following along and if you don’t mind , what kind of scale are you working with when you state 930 ppm ?

I would be looking at 1.86ec on a 500 scale with mine.
Thats what I feed at around 900pm with success. I intentionally overfeed a very small tad so I can top off with water the next day... Thanks for following along... I'm to the point where I have to juke all my rez's, nutes, meters, etc just to start over.
 

smokey0418

Well-Known Member
Thats what I feed at around 900pm with success. I intentionally overfeed a very small tad so I can top off with water the next day... Thanks for following along... I'm to the point where I have to juke all my rez's, nutes, meters, etc just to start over.
I have gotten to 1.6 during the middle of flower, but really it was crazy watching my ph rise that I found it much easier to just follow along and measure them eating and top up according to what was lost at a lower rate( 680 was the magic in flower last time)
That was the only time my ph would move is when my ppm would change ever so slightly .
 

Meast21

Well-Known Member
I have gotten to 1.6 during the middle of flower, but really it was crazy watching my ph rise that I found it much easier to just follow along and measure them eating and top up according to what was lost at a lower rate( 680 was the magic in flower last time)
That was the only time my ph would move is when my ppm would change ever so slightly .
When I feed that low my ph will rise to like 6.2-6.3 range... My magic spot is usually 850 depending on the strain, but like I said I intentionally overfeed like 5%...Tap water is 160 ppm out of faucet and not a single problem in DWC in 8 years.
 

smokey0418

Well-Known Member
When I feed that low my ph will rise to like 6.2-6.3 range... My magic spot is usually 850 depending on the strain, but like I said I intentionally overfeed like 5%...Tap water is 160 ppm out of faucet and not a single problem in DWC in 8 years.
Yes , you and I have a much different idea . So does mine.

Took a while for myself to grasp the chart.

I hope the best and you get this resolved.

watching
 
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