Anybody growing mushrooms willing to talk???

Drop That Sound

Drop That Sound

Well-Known Member
5549F1DC-D6E8-4E76-9C69-4A3B1B59155C.jpeg
Test 2. Cut more away from the blade. Still a no go. Not sure how much more I can take away without weakening it too much, and still being able to clamp it to work on. Maybe it needs one skinnier section somewhere inline. Or I could cut the whole tip off some..
 
A

A.k.a

Well-Known Member
If you can figure it out you can make good money selling those. A lot of people buy these bacticinerator things that are just tubes you set the tools in and it heats them up. Idk why when it’s so quick and easy to torch them but self heating blades would be sick.
 
oldsilvertip55

oldsilvertip55

Well-Known Member
Drop That Sound said:
For my next project, I was gonna use an angled 6mm stainless steel drinking straw to make a tool for cutting perfect round pucks in agar, instead of slicing wedges with a scalpel.

Maybe I could just use wire instead of the straw or tubing, so I can also hook it to a mod and sterilize i too, just like my new loop saber. Maybe it could even lift the puck out of the agar dish (unlike getting stuck in the tube), and also drop it to the new transfer plate with a short push of the button. Heating it just enough so it melts the agar by the ring (not burning the myc on the other side of the puck) and falls onto the new plate on the right side, without needing another pick or scalpel to pick it up with.. Punch the hole, pick it up, and drop it to the new plate all with one piece of wire, in just a few seconds..

I'm trying to figure out a way to minimize the amount of tools though, but there's so many cool ideas out there. I want to make like a swiss army mycology tool that has most of what I need in one unit. All electronic with self sterilizing attachments.

I could probably get a scalpel red hot with one of my high wattage E-cig mods too...
Click to expand...
add a (from liquid vitimns) dropper tip and suction bulb to the straw, draw up what u want ,only drop what u need.
 
F

Fidel Cashflow

Active Member
7L!fTeD24 said:
Thanks guys so I inoculated 6 jars with a 12 ml spore syringe 3 weeks ago today. As they colonized and started to shrink it's the dry layer vermiculite on top started to trickle down the sides of the jars between the mycelium and glass. They're all pretty much pulled away from the glass and colonized I'm waiting for a little bit of brown on the bottom of the jars to go away. I don't know if these are fully colonized and ready to go in a fruiting chamber, can't really tell if they're pinning looks like they are, and can't tell if they're contaminated. This is all due to the dry vermiculite barrier on top trickling down when the cake shrunk. I know p.f. Tek isn't really the way to go but it's my first time so I decided to try that out first just to see how it all works. If these fail I have everything to start over. Here's some pics any opinions would be much appreciated.
Here's what the bottoms look like:
View attachment 5119187
View attachment 5119189
Here's some pictures of a couple pictures of the sides. The dry vermiculite layer was only as thick as the lid and now that the cakes are almost fully colonized, the vermiculite is falling down the sides.
View attachment 5119744View attachment 5119746
Here's a couple sides. Ugly. So as the cakes colonized the substrate consolidated, my dry layer of vermiculite that starting at the line all trickled down the side. So underneath the vermiculite you see the substrate is colonized. They've been in the jar for 3 weeks. I'm worried that the vermiculite layer trickling down the sides is gonna contaminate it if it didnt already. I believe I'm seeing pinns on some jars. I don't want to leave them in there too long. Looking at the bottom of the jars should I wait till those brown spots go away? Or do you guys think these cakes are fully colonized and ready to go in a chamber. When they're ready to come out I'm going to dunk overnight and then put them in a shotgun fruiting chamber but I have to get them out of the jars ASAP so they don't get contaminated and I can't tell by the bottom of the jars. I have micropore tape over the holes and have been keeping the jars in a sterilized Tupperware tub in the dark except the temperature in the 70s. This is my first time doing this and it seems pretty sloppy and I won't make that mistake again but does anybody have any thoughts about this and what I should do? Also if it's pinning should I still dunk and roll but just be very careful? Thanks a lot any advice would be much appreciated.
Click to expand...
Wow. That is a job well done. I do mine in Uncle Bens, but that is straight up picture perfect.
 
Drop That Sound

Drop That Sound

Well-Known Member
A.k.a said:
If you can figure it out you can make good money selling those. A lot of people buy these bacticinerator things that are just tubes you set the tools in and it heats them up. Idk why when it’s so quick and easy to torch them but self heating blades would be sick.
Click to expand...
I trimmed the blade up way more for test 3. Got it to fire up on my 200w box mod.. but as I expected, it heats right at the weakest link area first. It actually kinda works, and the whole blade gets hot enough, I would suppose. I’m too impatient though.. I was wanting to see the whole thing glow, and melted it at the weak spot with too much power.. lol

Not working out as easily as I hoped.

D056F5BF-1066-457B-A715-6AA3FCE5CAE7.jpeg
 
A

A.k.a

Well-Known Member
Maybe it needs some kind of a sheath over the bottom half of the blade that heats up instead of directly connecting the blade.

i know zero about this stuff so that might not even be possible.
 
Drop That Sound

Drop That Sound

Well-Known Member
No actually your onto something. I was thinkin' the same actually. Just wrapping a wire coil around a lower section of the main blade like you say, so only that spot heats up. The heat would easily transfer from the wire wrap into the rest of the blade, sterilizing it as good as a torch would.. I would imagine any way. Or even the induction coil sterilizers. Maybe I could stuff an induction coil module into a handle, and have a built in induction coil that heats the blade instead. With a retractable blade that goes in and out of the coil to sterilize each time. Not to mention keeps the blade in a safe position when not in use.. Haha, I dunno man. I'll come up with some kind of all in one cordless handheld scalpel tool with quick ramp up/cool down times.
 
oldsilvertip55

oldsilvertip55

Well-Known Member
Purpfarmer said:
When I mix the spawn bag with the substrate in the monotub shouldn't the monotub be sealed until fruiting is ready?? I ordered a monotub but they only sent me filter disks for the holes. Don't I need to keep those holes sealed until I see pins?
Click to expand...
pins state with air flow
Drop That Sound said:
I trimmed the blade up way more for test 3. Got it to fire up on my 200w box mod.. but as I expected, it heats right at the weakest link area first. It actually kinda works, and the whole blade gets hot enough, I would suppose. I’m too impatient though.. I was wanting to see the whole thing glow, and melted it at the weak spot with too much power.. lol

Not working out as easily as I hoped.

View attachment 5267131
Click to expand...
keep working u will get it down pat!
 
oldsilvertip55

oldsilvertip55

Well-Known Member
Drop That Sound said:
I trimmed the blade up way more for test 3. Got it to fire up on my 200w box mod.. but as I expected, it heats right at the weakest link area first. It actually kinda works, and the whole blade gets hot enough, I would suppose. I’m too impatient though.. I was wanting to see the whole thing glow, and melted it at the weak spot with too much power.. lol

Not working out as easily as I hoped.

View attachment 5267131
Click to expand...
longer v groove out to tip makin it thinner ,heat travel to point faster!?
 
Drop That Sound

Drop That Sound

Well-Known Member
oldsilvertip55 said:
longer v groove out to tip makin it thinner ,heat travel to point faster!?
Click to expand...
Yep, gonna have to trim it out more evenly, is what I'm realizing. Farther up into the tip area. Using the super thin cutoff wheel, probably. I'll have to fix the dremel to the bench, and hold the blade with pliers right on the tip area, instead of clamping the blade and holding the dremel to cut it. Gonna be sketchy, lol. With enough R&D, maybe i'll find a way to machine the blades perfectly. If I use an unregulated non-digital "mech mod", it would bypass finding the weak link, and heat the whole blade without trimming as much.. but, it could possibly explode from pulling to much amperage from the battery...

I'll keep workin' on it on the sidelines, but will need something that works soon.

Gonna go ahead and make me an induction coil sterilizer. I pulled a 300w ATX non modular power supply out of an old PC, and gonna use it to power this module, with a foot switch that i'm about to order off amazon. I already have some copper HVAC tubing to wind up the actual coil, to save even more money. Its $40+ to buy this module with the coil. I'll make a nice box to house it in, out of corian or something fancy. I'll keep the powersupply mounted remotely, so the fan doesn't cause issues.

I can use it for many other projects too, besides sterilizing tools. Even though this 20a ZVS module is bulky and will take up more room in my shmuv bag, its better than using the smaller 10 amp ones that heat up too quick, and burn out easier if you try to heat too much metal..
Screenshot.png
 
A

A.k.a

Well-Known Member
Yep. Sometimes they stay under the surface and only the knots pop through like yours. Then the knots turn to pins.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top