Spider Farmer Sf2000pro

I have a Sf2000 pro led light
I can't get it to connect to the app at all
Any ideas please ?

Tia.
I don't see anything in the product description page that indicates that it is network capable.

All of the SE and G lights have the text "Bluetooth and WiFi Smart App" in their product description but that text is not included in the product descriptions for the SF line of lights.

The first part of the product description for SF lights read "As our entry-level grow light…". I suspect that Spider can't add that WiFi and Bluetooth to the SF line if they want to hit their price points.

If it is networkable, some devices need to be on a 2.4GHz band to connect. They'll run on 5 GHz but you need to use to 2.4 to get started.
 
I don't see anything in the product description page that indicates that it is network capable.

All of the SE and G lights have the text "Bluetooth and WiFi Smart App" in their product description but that text is not included in the product descriptions for the SF line of lights.

The first part of the product description for SF lights read "As our entry-level grow light…". I suspect that Spider can't add that WiFi and Bluetooth to the SF line if they want to hit their price points.

If it is networkable, some devices need to be on a 2.4GHz band to connect. They'll run on 5 GHz but you need to use to 2.4 to get started.
Thank you for your reply ,
I have since spoken to SF and they have told me it will only work with 1 of their GSS controllers or the power bank they sell.
Problem is the AI on Google states that it is Bluetooth/Wireless etc
I would say entry level , it's as high as I can go in a 3x1 tent ,
I've recently done the swap from HID to the sf2000pro , I was using a 250w HID ,
I made the mistake off whacking it on 100% thinking it didn't look as bright as my HID , But of course I was wrong and everything fried ,
I think in dialled in now however ,
I whacked the light to the top of my tent (140cm) and my ladies are vegging on 60%,

Do you have any recommendations on other lights to fit my space ?

Tia.
 
Thank you for your reply ,
You're welcome.

I have since spoken to SF and they have told me it will only work with 1 of their GSS controllers or the power bank they sell.
If the light suits your needs, is that an acceptable option?

Problem is the AI on Google states that it is Bluetooth/Wireless etc
Google is a very powerful search engine and I've used ChatGPT, as well. Both services are limited to what has been "read into them" and AI has a limited ability to link data together but it's still just a computer programmed by a human. Brilliant programming but it does have limitations (I've been/was a software engineer for 30+ years).

I asked ChatGPT to find grow lights for a 2' x 4' tent and 2 of the models it returned were >2' wide. At the end of a day, it's still just a computer so I always ask it to cite references. And quite often the references do not pertain to the question I asked. It will get better, of course, but my experience with ChatGPT is reminiscent of the other "next great thing" that the tech industry has barfed up every few years.

I would say entry level , it's as high as I can go in a 3x1 tent
That's an unusual size. Home made?


I've recently done the swap from HID to the sf2000pro , I was using a 250w HID ,
Got it.
I made the mistake off whacking it on 100% thinking it didn't look as bright as my HID , But of course I was wrong and everything fried ,
Understood. Our senses are good at…sensing but not at measuring. Plus HID's have a different spectrum than PAR and see the previous sentence.
Sorry to hear about the plants.
I think in dialled in now however ,
I whacked the light to the top of my tent (140cm) and my ladies are vegging on 60%,
Most of the manufacturers have recommended settings for different the stages of growth, as in hang height and dimmer setting. The settings for your light are about half way down this page.

At 60% and 18", that's a sound (conservative) amount of light. Cannabis thrives on high light (as I just happened to mention in every posting I make).

Do you have any recommendations on other lights to fit my space ?

Tia.
Moi, an opinion about a grow light? :-)

You sound keen on controlling your light digitally (something I heartily recommend) and Spider looks to be doing a very good job in that area. Their products are not as sophisticated as the offerings from AC Infinity but my impression is that they're more user friendly than AC Infinity. And, having been writing business software for a long time, I believe that there's a lot of value in that.

It would seem that their "Beginner's Choice" , at $60, would give you the digital control that you want and you could use that with the SF 2000.

I suspect that it will work with any light that plugs in to that hub which opens up the options.

The SF2000 is a "board light" vs a "bar light". Characteristics of a board light are that they're cheap to manufacture, they're don't have features that the more expensive bar lights have, they tend to run warmer than a bar light (they don't give off heat as well as a bar light does), and they have a "hot spot" in the center of the light meaning that there's a rapid falloff in light levels ("PPFD") when you start to move away from the center area.

Board lights are a very cost effective solution for a small grow space. Your SF2000 will do well growing one plant in the center but, per the PPFD map below, you can see that there's not much light at the end of the tent. This is the PPFD map for a 3' tent. As hang height increases, PPFD drops but the light spread across the tent becomes more even. At 18", if you run the light at 100%, you'll get really good light in the center (900+), then 759, then 547. That 547 value will be in the 6" area at each of the tent and, to get the most of your grow, you'll want at least 700µmol. That drops your usable flower area from 1' x 3' to 1' x 2'. You can get a good harvest from your SF2000 in that tent but you're only working with 2 square feet. If you add more light at the end, you'll have 3 square feet of high light growing space and that's a 50% increase in space and that would also mean about a 50% increase in yield. So you'd go from, say 125 gm to 200gm. That's a rough estimate and it assumes that you give your grow good light.

My bias is to get as much light on my plants as possible and to get to that light level, I'd go with two Vipar Spectra XS 1500 Pro lights. Read on for my rationale.

1749771729919.png
At 1' x 3', your tent is a bit to narrow for the Migro 150, which is, as of its release just a few weeks ago, the Titan of the Tent in the 2' tent market. Unfortunately, it's 18" square so it can't fit in a 1' deep tent.

The Mars SP3000 is only 4" wide and gives off a lot of light but it's 40" long. I've got an older model SP3000 and it's a solid performer.

The light that would first "just right" is the Vipar Spectra XS 1500 Pro. I've got an older model, the XS 1500, and it's a solid performer. That light was Titan of the Tent in the 2' tent market when it came out about 18 months but, yes, it has been knocked off its perch by the new Migro. It's still an excellent light and the best thing for your needs is its size:



At 11.4" by 15.8" you can fit 2 of these in your 1' x 3'. Vipar also sells two 1500's held together with a bracket and it's called the XS3000 Pro. The 3000 is 38" long so you'd have to resize the bracket (resize=cut). The other issue with the 3000 is that you only get one light setting whereas with two lights you can adjust them independently. That can be really helpful if you decided to grow two (small) plants in your tent and need/want to adjust the light for each of them.

This the PPFD map for the 3000 in a 2' x 4' tent. The engineers at Vipar did an excellent job to design a board light that has a PPFD maps that's so even. At 12" hang height, it hits almost 1k in the center and, even at the extreme ends of your 1' x 3' area the PPFD values are the same. If have to raise the light to 16", your PPFD range will be ~800 to ~900. That's a very significant amount of light and PPFD is dropping just over 10% which is, in practical terms, meaningless.

You will get a very similar PPFD map using two XS 1500's plus the ability to use different dimmer settings and with a pair of 1500's, you can run one of them in seedling and early veg and then light up the second light when your plant(s) get bigger. That's what's going in on the picture below the PPFD map.

1749772781244.png

This is my grow setup for germination and seedling stage. It's a XS 1500, the predecessor to the XS 1500 Pro, and it doesn't have the same PPFD map as the Pro. I use it for the germination and seedling stages and then as a fill light later on in the grow.
1749773073947.jpeg


Lots of detail and a big change from flipping on your HID's, eh?

The SF2000 will do well for your space. It's a significant jump in photon count ("PPFD") from your HID and there's no doubt that you can get a good crop using that light in your tent. It's also a fact you're losing a signficant percentage of your grow space because of the inherent design of a board light—they simply cannot generate the PPFD at the extremes of their light cast.

A pair of XS1500 Pro lights changes the situation completely. Two lights will give you a lot of flexibility in the early stages, will allow you to give different amount of light to each plant if you decided to grow two plants, and all along the way, will give you an extremely even light cast across your entire grow area.
 
You're welcome.


If the light suits your needs, is that an acceptable option?


Google is a very powerful search engine and I've used ChatGPT, as well. Both services are limited to what has been "read into them" and AI has a limited ability to link data together but it's still just a computer programmed by a human. Brilliant programming but it does have limitations (I've been/was a software engineer for 30+ years).

I asked ChatGPT to find grow lights for a 2' x 4' tent and 2 of the models it returned were >2' wide. At the end of a day, it's still just a computer so I always ask it to cite references. And quite often the references do not pertain to the question I asked. It will get better, of course, but my experience with ChatGPT is reminiscent of the other "next great thing" that the tech industry has barfed up every few years.


That's an unusual size. Home made?



Got it.

Understood. Our senses are good at…sensing but not at measuring. Plus HID's have a different spectrum than PAR and see the previous sentence.
Sorry to hear about the plants.

Most of the manufacturers have recommended settings for different the stages of growth, as in hang height and dimmer setting. The settings for your light are about half way down this page.

At 60% and 18", that's a sound (conservative) amount of light. Cannabis thrives on high light (as I just happened to mention in every posting I make).


Moi, an opinion about a grow light? :-)

You sound keen on controlling your light digitally (something I heartily recommend) and Spider looks to be doing a very good job in that area. Their products are not as sophisticated as the offerings from AC Infinity but my impression is that they're more user friendly than AC Infinity. And, having been writing business software for a long time, I believe that there's a lot of value in that.

It would seem that their "Beginner's Choice" , at $60, would give you the digital control that you want and you could use that with the SF 2000.

I suspect that it will work with any light that plugs in to that hub which opens up the options.

The SF2000 is a "board light" vs a "bar light". Characteristics of a board light are that they're cheap to manufacture, they're don't have features that the more expensive bar lights have, they tend to run warmer than a bar light (they don't give off heat as well as a bar light does), and they have a "hot spot" in the center of the light meaning that there's a rapid falloff in light levels ("PPFD") when you start to move away from the center area.

Board lights are a very cost effective solution for a small grow space. Your SF2000 will do well growing one plant in the center but, per the PPFD map below, you can see that there's not much light at the end of the tent. This is the PPFD map for a 3' tent. As hang height increases, PPFD drops but the light spread across the tent becomes more even. At 18", if you run the light at 100%, you'll get really good light in the center (900+), then 759, then 547. That 547 value will be in the 6" area at each of the tent and, to get the most of your grow, you'll want at least 700µmol. That drops your usable flower area from 1' x 3' to 1' x 2'. You can get a good harvest from your SF2000 in that tent but you're only working with 2 square feet. If you add more light at the end, you'll have 3 square feet of high light growing space and that's a 50% increase in space and that would also mean about a 50% increase in yield. So you'd go from, say 125 gm to 200gm. That's a rough estimate and it assumes that you give your grow good light.

My bias is to get as much light on my plants as possible and to get to that light level, I'd go with two Vipar Spectra XS 1500 Pro lights. Read on for my rationale.

View attachment 5469025
At 1' x 3', your tent is a bit to narrow for the Migro 150, which is, as of its release just a few weeks ago, the Titan of the Tent in the 2' tent market. Unfortunately, it's 18" square so it can't fit in a 1' deep tent.

The Mars SP3000 is only 4" wide and gives off a lot of light but it's 40" long. I've got an older model SP3000 and it's a solid performer.

The light that would first "just right" is the Vipar Spectra XS 1500 Pro. I've got an older model, the XS 1500, and it's a solid performer. That light was Titan of the Tent in the 2' tent market when it came out about 18 months but, yes, it has been knocked off its perch by the new Migro. It's still an excellent light and the best thing for your needs is its size:



At 11.4" by 15.8" you can fit 2 of these in your 1' x 3'. Vipar also sells two 1500's held together with a bracket and it's called the XS3000 Pro. The 3000 is 38" long so you'd have to resize the bracket (resize=cut). The other issue with the 3000 is that you only get one light setting whereas with two lights you can adjust them independently. That can be really helpful if you decided to grow two (small) plants in your tent and need/want to adjust the light for each of them.

This the PPFD map for the 3000 in a 2' x 4' tent. The engineers at Vipar did an excellent job to design a board light that has a PPFD maps that's so even. At 12" hang height, it hits almost 1k in the center and, even at the extreme ends of your 1' x 3' area the PPFD values are the same. If have to raise the light to 16", your PPFD range will be ~800 to ~900. That's a very significant amount of light and PPFD is dropping just over 10% which is, in practical terms, meaningless.

You will get a very similar PPFD map using two XS 1500's plus the ability to use different dimmer settings and with a pair of 1500's, you can run one of them in seedling and early veg and then light up the second light when your plant(s) get bigger. That's what's going in on the picture below the PPFD map.

View attachment 5469028

This is my grow setup for germination and seedling stage. It's a XS 1500, the predecessor to the XS 1500 Pro, and it doesn't have the same PPFD map as the Pro. I use it for the germination and seedling stages and then as a fill light later on in the grow.
View attachment 5469029


Lots of detail and a big change from flipping on your HID's, eh?

The SF2000 will do well for your space. It's a significant jump in photon count ("PPFD") from your HID and there's no doubt that you can get a good crop using that light in your tent. It's also a fact you're losing a signficant percentage of your grow space because of the inherent design of a board light—they simply cannot generate the PPFD at the extremes of their light cast.

A pair of XS1500 Pro lights changes the situation completely. Two lights will give you a lot of flexibility in the early stages, will allow you to give different amount of light to each plant if you decided to grow two plants, and all along the way, will give you an extremely even light cast across your entire grow area.
Massive reply ,
I need time to reply , I am a Chef and it's fathers day weekend so I am very busy ,
I need to dicect this reply properly as lots of information ,
I will read again probably more than once and get back to you on Monday ,
Thank you it's much appreciated
 
Massive reply ,
I need time to reply , I am a Chef and it's fathers day weekend so I am very busy ,
I need to dicect this reply properly as lots of information ,
I will read again probably more than once and get back to you on Monday ,
Thank you it's much appreciated
You're welcome and enjoy the weekend.
 
You're welcome and enjoy the weekend.
Hi
Sorry for my very late reply ,
No my tent is a Mars Hydro 90cmx50cmx160cm (LxWxH) it's a odd size but fits perfectly ,
I have added a red light strip which is 20w to help with the SF2000pros lack of red spectrum ,
I have everything pretty much under control now but I am worried I will lack power for my space in flowering , this will be my first LED flower run.
It's just for me so yeild doesn't overly concern me as much as quality ,

I have Big Bang , Chocolate Skunk , Cherry Grapefruit and Skywalker x GS Cookies
I have a seperate area for clones and seedlings , I try to stay as perpetual as possible ,

This light is 85cmx41cm
Ac infinty 270w bar light , it seems a perfect fit for me but is it a lot better than my sf2000pro?
I'd really like your opinion on this please ?

 

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These are my lux readings ,
1st is Centre to Canopy
2nd Left side (No red light)
3rd Left (Red light)

Also these readings are with the tent open so light is escaping I guess this makes a difference?
The Sf2000pro is set to 75%.
 

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Hi
Sorry for my very late reply ,
No apologies needed. Hope you had a good Father's Day.

No my tent is a Mars Hydro 90cmx50cmx160cm (LxWxH) it's a odd size but fits perfectly ,
I had to convert that to Imperial - 36 x 20 x 62". The height could be a factor.

I have added a red light strip which is 20w to help with the SF2000pros lack of red spectrum ,
I have everything pretty much under control now but I am worried I will lack power for my space in flowering , this will be my first LED flower run.
It's just for me so yeild doesn't overly concern me as much as quality
Last item first - "quality" = lots of secondary metabolites. Research shows that yield and quality tend increase a light levels increase. And that means having temps high in veg. High temps + high PPFD allows the plant to fill the grow space quickly and that leads to capturing more photons.

Once a cannabis plant is flower, it's best to drop temps <=26/78° or else secondary metabolites will be lost. I know I've hit that in some of my grows where I didn't drop temps in flower. I had huge yields from growing at >27/80 + in veg but didn't have the kick because my temps were >27/80° in flower.

From Westmoreland's video. Bud temps in elevated CO2 are more of an issue (most research is done in CO2 at 1200) but the temperature value "limits" are the same. Less than 26/78 is best.
1750624815219.png


I have Big Bang , Chocolate Skunk , Cherry Grapefruit and Skywalker x GS Cookies
I have a seperate area for clones and seedlings , I try to stay as perpetual as possible ,
Very nice!

This light is 85cmx41cm
Ac infinty 270w bar light , it seems a perfect fit for me but is it a lot better than my sf2000pro?
I'd really like your opinion on this please ?
The AC Infinity light has a better PPFD map but nowhere the amount of blue that the Spider has.

1750625220152.png

AC Infinity
1750625182448.png

Spider SF2000Pro
1750625351843.png


Based on the PPFD map(s), you've got high PPFD in the center but it drops off quickly as you move off center. To my way of thinking, I'd put the supplemental lights toward the ends of main light, running front to back. It's fine to hang them below the main light, closer to the plants.

Very nice color and shape in your plants, mostly. I see one leaf that's in rough shape—could that be nutrient water? The plant on the left has a slight imbalance. Overall, doing very nicely.
 
No apologies needed. Hope you had a good Father's Day.


I had to convert that to Imperial - 36 x 20 x 62". The height could be a factor.


Last item first - "quality" = lots of secondary metabolites. Research shows that yield and quality tend increase a light levels increase. And that means having temps high in veg. High temps + high PPFD allows the plant to fill the grow space quickly and that leads to capturing more photons.

Once a cannabis plant is flower, it's best to drop temps <=26/78° or else secondary metabolites will be lost. I know I've hit that in some of my grows where I didn't drop temps in flower. I had huge yields from growing at >27/80 + in veg but didn't have the kick because my temps were >27/80° in flower.

From Westmoreland's video. Bud temps in elevated CO2 are more of an issue (most research is done in CO2 at 1200) but the temperature value "limits" are the same. Less than 26/78 is best.
View attachment 5470455



Very nice!


The AC Infinity light has a better PPFD map but nowhere the amount of blue that the Spider has.

View attachment 5470457

AC Infinity
View attachment 5470456

Spider SF2000Pro
View attachment 5470458


Based on the PPFD map(s), you've got high PPFD in the center but it drops off quickly as you move off center. To my way of thinking, I'd put the supplemental lights toward the ends of main light, running front to back. It's fine to hang them below the main light, closer to the plants.


Very nice color and shape in your plants, mostly. I see one leaf that's in rough shape—could that be nutrient water? The plant on the left has a slight imbalance. Overall, doing very nicely.
The plant on the far left is the Big Bang , this plant is weird , it seems to droop longer than the 6 hours during dark and tbh struggles in Veg , as soon as it goes to flower it wakes up , its really odd but produces great buds that I love !
The leaf damage was a survivor from the light burn weeks when I went straight in at 100% at 18inches,

Sio in your opinion should I swap to the Ac infinity the is 85cm long and fits better or not ?
Will I get better light spread for flowering ?
As the SF has more blue I could keep it just for veg ?

Thank you
 
These are my lux readings ,
1st is Centre to Canopy
2nd Left side (No red light)
3rd Left (Red light)

Also these readings are with the tent open so light is escaping I guess this makes a difference?
The Sf2000pro is set to 75%.
Well, you know what my response will be. :-)

Those plants are 30-something days old(?) so 33k lux is right in the middle of the "legacy light levels". A conversion factor of 0.015 is accurate for a "standard" white LED. I've attached a PDF I wrote re. lux to PPFD conversions (it needs some cleanup, I'll admit) and the SF2000 might be a little lower but it's pretty close.

Having said that, you should be able to increase PPFD by about 50%. Cannabis is a light whore loves light, per below.

For your own edification—tomorrow AM (you're in the UK, right?), turn the dimmer up so that you're at 40 or 45k, set a timer for 30 minutes, and walk away from the tent. When the timer goes off, go into the tent and check the plants. Check the edges of the leaves to see if any of them are curling up. If they are, drop the dimmer setting back to 33/35k lux or raise the light a few inches. If everything's OK, set the timer for 30 minutes and do the check again.

Another photo avoidance mechanism is that leaves will rotate around the petiole, similar to how a Venetian blind opes and closes. Per above, if you see that, drop the wattage/raise the light a bit.

At this stage of their growth, the oldest plants are/are almost mature in terms of their ability to process light so I would be concerned if they weren't comfortable at, say, 50k lux.

In just about every grow, I give my plants a little too much light in early veg. In the grow below, I overdid it going to 650µmol so I dropped to 600µmol (I think those were the numbers). I knew it was too much because the edges of the top most leaves had curled a bit. All in all, it's not an issue if they get a bit too much light.

Data from my most recent grow, day 36. (LR=left rear, LC=left center, LF=left front) Values are PPFD and DLI

"∆" is the difference between Open and Closed

1750626701726.png


Donna on the left, Erica on the right. I use light with lots of blue in them for veg so my plants tend to be short and bushy.
1750626533842.jpeg
 

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The plant on the far left is the Big Bang , this plant is weird , it seems to droop longer than the 6 hours during dark and tbh struggles in Veg , as soon as it goes to flower it wakes up , its really odd but produces great buds that I love !
The leaf damage was a survivor from the light burn weeks when I went straight in at 100% at 18inches,
Oops. Yeh, that happens.

I bought Growcraft lights. Very not cheap. While I was in my (home) office, I saw that the temp in the tent was in the high 80's. When I walked into the garage, there was a huge amount of light in the tent. Turns out that the $10 dimmer in my $600+ light had failed and my plant was getting almost 1400µmol. That's when I saw leaves doing the Venetian blind trick. :-)

Sio in your opinion should I swap to the Ac infinity the is 85cm long and fits better or not ?
SF2000 for veg; AC Infinity + red supplemental for flower
Will I get better light spread for flowering ?
As the SF has more blue I could keep it just for veg ?

Thank you

Per the spectrum chart, I'd put use the Spider as the veg light because it's got more blue in it and that will help keep the plants short. That's important for your grow because you don't have a lot of tent height. On the other hand, yield increases as the percentage of blue light decreases (that's why I went with a veg light and a flower light).

The nice thing about having the supplemental lights is that it's a "twofer" (an Americanism)— by putting those lights on the AC Infinity light you'll get more red light on the plants and, second, if you orient them front to back you'll even out the PPFD map.

Below is the PPFD map for my Growcraft. Lots of light in the center but a pretty rapid falloff by today's standards. If I drop 1300 to 1000 (23%) that means I drop 23% across the entire grow area so 800=>560.

I spent quite a bit of time looking for a replacement light and the best solution was to use a pair of Spider GlowR80's, per the picture below.

1750628293227.png

1750628571235.png

The R80's give me lots of 660nm light so I could drop the wattage on my Growcraft by about 150 watts. Per above, the Growcraft has a fair amount of blue and green, which are not as electrically efficient as the red diodes. I was able to get the same PPFD by turning down the wattage on the Growcraft by about 130 watts while replacing those photons with the red photons from the more electrically efficient red diodes in the R80's. I saved some electricity and dropped my tent temperature by 2°F.

(The center and back of the plant were getting too much light so I taped bond paper around them. )

1750628257192.jpeg

I think this technique will work well for you. You've got the lights and the lux meter will help you understand how much light is hitting your plants.
 
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